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RAM slot stop functioning after CPU upgrade

Hello,

After months, I've finally accepted that my good old 13900k was simply burnt out (I've changed literally all other components one by one...), causing all my issues. I took advantage of the z790 socket to replace it with a 14900k, and it indeed worked great!
 

But since then, if I ever put a RAM stick in any of the two left slots, my motherboard (Asus ProArt z790 Creator WiFi) will complain about a RAM issue with a nice orange/yellow LED...
I did not touch anything when I made my upgrade. I just pulled out the old CPU and replaced it with a new one.
 

At first, I thought I might have put the CPU back poorly, as I'm using an ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III that came with its own equipment to clamp the CPU. But even after removing everything and putting it back again, I still have the issue. I also tested with the old CPU, and the same issue occurred. I've also tried updating the BIOS and using it with default settings.
 

Did I somehow kill my RAM slot at some point?

I can try it with my old motherboard, but as it would take a long time and be very annoying, I would like to avoid it if anyone has a better idea. 😕
 

Thanks a lot.

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Check the socket for bent pins.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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6 minutes ago, Plotter said:

Will I be able to see it naked eye?
And if I do, should I try to unbend them or should I avoid doing more damage and just took it as an explanation?

A magnifier or a zoom option on a phone would help, but you can see it naked eye too.

 

If there are bent pins, you should try unbending them, use caution, a needle or razor or something similar, and don't over-do it not to break the pins.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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Yoooo wtf how the hell did this happen?? And how the computer still work at all???
image.png.fb4cdb0dca1e4539ca9d9b1f1a40fdeb.png
 

The plastic pole on the bottom just got, I dont know, smashed or melted
Are they on the Ram slot by any chance? ^^' I've tried to find the pin layout online but I dont understand it 😕

Should I stop using the computer until I got a replacement or can I assume it's fine as long as it work?

Anyway, I dont know how I did that (or even if it's really my fault) but I guess you found the issue 😞 Thanks a lot

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7 minutes ago, Plotter said:

Yoooo wtf how the hell did this happen?? And how the computer still work at all???
image.png.fb4cdb0dca1e4539ca9d9b1f1a40fdeb.png
 

The plastic pole on the bottom just got, I dont know, smashed or melted
Are they on the Ram slot by any chance? ^^' I've tried to find the pin layout online but I dont understand it 😕

Should I stop using the computer until I got a replacement or can I assume it's fine as long as it work?

Anyway, I dont know how I did that (or even if it's really my fault) but I guess you found the issue 😞 Thanks a lot

I, I don't even know how to describe this, how that happened. That must have been some force or heat. 

Not sure if I'd try to remove the excess plastic bits or outright replace the board. 

Maybe post it on reddit, to see if others experienced such an issue?

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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Reddit people are mean, that's why I'm posting here 😞

I've already got a replacement on the way. I guess I'll try to clean in where it will be here and test it with the old CPU 😕 Best case I can save it and send back the other one, worth case, and already broken CPU and already broken MB will be even more broken ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I'll try post an update if I get anything out of that

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8 hours ago, Plotter said:

Reddit people are mean, that's why I'm posting here 😞

I've already got a replacement on the way. I guess I'll try to clean in where it will be here and test it with the old CPU 😕 Best case I can save it and send back the other one, worth case, and already broken CPU and already broken MB will be even more broken ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I'll try post an update if I get anything out of that

I have a theory. When inserting the CPU, the rear portion of it was seated on top of the plastic frame and when you pulled the mounting mechanism it probably put a lot of preasure to slide the CPU into the correct possition and that's what caused the damage.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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Hello, quick update on my issue.
 

I got mad today thinking about it, so when I came back from work I got on my socket, took a blade, and tried to remove the plastic bits. They shattered as soon as I touched them. It felt like I would be able to remove them with my nail alone. So I tried my best to blow them away to not cause more damage and had a look for the bent pin. One of them was not looking very happy, but not very bent sideways.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.145f913b23c349716159918826e0e681.jpeg

 

So I did what any sane person would do and put back my shiny new CPU, along with all the RAM sticks, and booted it up. And it worked (some Christmas miracle maybe?).
 

Doing so, I probably found the issue and indeed you’re right, I put the CPU a bit misaligned at first (first boot I had nothing, not even the MB LED on, so the CPU must have been poorly seated).

But I also found the root cause: As it was a CPU upgrade, I did the swap in the case. And it’s a pretty heavy one. So to be able to unmount the cooler with its special contact frame, I had to have access to both sides. To do that I laid the computer on the side, MB up, and raised its back a bit with some cardboard boxes. It was therefore not fully flat. When I put the contact frame from the CPU side, I slightly hit the CPU that was barely sitting in its socket and moved it above the plastic bits. Then I screwed it, and the rest is history.
 

I’m pretty sure because when I was putting it back, I did it again. But this time I was extra careful and saw it before trying to break it a second time x)
 

My tip for everyone here, if you have an ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III or anything similar: Be very careful that the CPU does not slip and lay the MB as flat as possible!
 

Anyway, thanks a lot @191x7, you saved me 380€ and a lot of headache. 🙂

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1 hour ago, Plotter said:

Hello, quick update on my issue.
 

I got mad today thinking about it, so when I came back from work I got on my socket, took a blade, and tried to remove the plastic bits. They shattered as soon as I touched them. It felt like I would be able to remove them with my nail alone. So I tried my best to blow them away to not cause more damage and had a look for the bent pin. One of them was not looking very happy, but not very bent sideways.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.145f913b23c349716159918826e0e681.jpeg

 

So I did what any sane person would do and put back my shiny new CPU, along with all the RAM sticks, and booted it up. And it worked (some Christmas miracle maybe?).
 

Doing so, I probably found the issue and indeed you’re right, I put the CPU a bit misaligned at first (first boot I had nothing, not even the MB LED on, so the CPU must have been poorly seated).

But I also found the root cause: As it was a CPU upgrade, I did the swap in the case. And it’s a pretty heavy one. So to be able to unmount the cooler with its special contact frame, I had to have access to both sides. To do that I laid the computer on the side, MB up, and raised its back a bit with some cardboard boxes. It was therefore not fully flat. When I put the contact frame from the CPU side, I slightly hit the CPU that was barely sitting in its socket and moved it above the plastic bits. Then I screwed it, and the rest is history.
 

I’m pretty sure because when I was putting it back, I did it again. But this time I was extra careful and saw it before trying to break it a second time x)
 

My tip for everyone here, if you have an ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III or anything similar: Be very careful that the CPU does not slip and lay the MB as flat as possible!
 

Anyway, thanks a lot @191x7, you saved me 380€ and a lot of headache. 🙂

Glad I was of help. Enjoy. And Merry Christmas! 🙂

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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