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I put extra ram now my pc wont start

Go to solution Solved by roguezxro,

I ended up buying the same ram with the same serial number and it fixed it. The one’s I bought before had a different serial number. Also my cpu an 8700k can only handle up to 2666 MHz. So overclocking higher will cause it not to boot. I suggest checking what MHz your cpu can handle before overclocking.

So I put new ram so I can have 32gb instad of 16gm. My pc now wont boot windows. I tried it with my other two rams I had before and it works just fine. Did I accidentally bbuy the wrong ram? The second pic is the ram I had before and the first one is the one I bought. Did I buy the wrong ram? Why would they make them look so similar if so.

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or did I get a faulty ram?

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It's easy to put a memtest  on a usb stick and test the ram : https://www.memtest86.com/download.htm

Select from bios to start from USB stick and leave the test running for one pass (should be at least 20 minutes) - If you get errors either the ram is faulty or in rarer cases, the motherboard can't handle that many ram sticks at that high frequency (for example it could run 1 or 2 sticks at 3200 Mhz, but may only be able to do 2833-3000 with 4 sticks)

 

If you get errors you can try inserting just one stick at a time and running the test, to see if only one stick gives errors.

 

If there's no errors, you can  try disabling XMP or manually setting the frequency to 3000 Mhz or 2833 or even 2666 Mhz, just to test.

 

The Corsair kits should be fairly compatible.

 

You don't say what motherboard you have. Are there any bios updates for that motherboard?

 

 

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Did you clear CMOS after switching? That forces the board to retrain the memory.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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Hi Roguezxro, nice to meet you. It's a bit hard to tell my friend unless we know the Motherboard, the CPU rating, and yr Ram rating. Then check the QVL Numbers off the MBD maker, and that will tell you if that particular ram stick is allowable by the Motherboard, that's yr first check. Then check which dim you put it into, was it allowable, yr motherboard manual will tell you, I am a bit behind the eight ball trying to catch up.

Is yr ram Quad or Dual format ram.

 

But of the surface that is what it is telling us, that those two sticks are not qualified. It happened to me when buying GSkill DDR 4 Ram, My old pc the one I am using now, has an i9 9900X, an old Rampage 6 Extreme Motherboard, RTX and the DDR4 3200 ram is playing up, so I went to buy some new/old DDR 4 to patch it up, it was DDR 4 4000, and out of 18 Part Numbers, just 1 number was wrong, it was skipped and replaced with something else and I only just picked it up, because it was the same Model Family, the Trident Z, same Memory Type, Ram DDR 4 and that number skipped still had the exactly correct numbers either side of it, so I was very lucky to pick it up.

 

I know it's a pain, but I would definitely start at the beginning and check each level, tick them off and I am pretty sure with a bit of research yr'll find the answer.

And as our friend above mentioned, which I am in the middle of doing it now with the MemTest86, which is always a great idea because it's gives you peace of mind once yr've done the test, so you know one way or the other .

 

I am having trouble with Memtest myself,  as I can't get the USB Stick to boot off the PC when I turn it back on, so that's how i picked up that number, because I gave up and just decided to go and get the new ram, to tide me over till my new PC is built with the Core Ultra 9.

 

I nearly screwed up big time as my PC shop Owner didn't even tell me about the Core Ultra Series, and I was a couple of days away from spending $16,000 with him, so I am very disappointed with him, I felt that was poor service after 20 yrs together and 6 PC's @ ~$10k-$16k ea. I nearly bought the i9 14900KS, RTX, etc etc and I just decided to do some final reading and very lucky that I did, but it was very slack of me to be honest, laziness and trusting others.

 

I better go Roguezxro as I have taken enough of yr time my new friend.

Lets us know how you go after some checking, btw if you need any numbers etc just yell out.

 

This was the i9 Computer I was talking about and going to Buy, then found out about the Core Ultra 9.

 so it's gone to the has been's, that Never were in the sky. 😉

 

Cheers Kiwi000 ❤️

 

Edit: I still bought the TV and Soundbar though.

 

 

KEVS #6 - 2023 COMPUTER SPECS V2-0.png

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I ended up buying the same ram with the same serial number and it fixed it. The one’s I bought before had a different serial number. Also my cpu an 8700k can only handle up to 2666 MHz. So overclocking higher will cause it not to boot. I suggest checking what MHz your cpu can handle before overclocking.

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21 minutes ago, roguezxro said:

I ended up buying the same ram with the same serial number and it fixed it. The one’s I bought before had a different serial number. Also my cpu an 8700k can only handle up to 2666 MHz. So overclocking higher will cause it not to boot. I suggest checking what MHz your cpu can handle before overclocking.

What do you mean having the same serial number? They're supposed to have some unique value that differentiates the specific modules. For example, the modules in my PC have essentially the same serial number except for the end figure, which changes by one figure(851 vs 852), implying they're part of a similar batch - these were purchased as a kit, so it works out. But having the same serial number? That doesn't make any sense, and this isn't something you would likely have access to as a purchaser, so you're likely referring to the part number or module number instead.

"It pays to keep an open mind, but not so open your brain falls out." - Carl Sagan.

"I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you" - Edward I. Koch

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