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Budget (including currency): $500

Country: United States

Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Video games, Streaming, Vtubing, Recording.

Other details:  So my pc has been having issues ever since my moms friend built my pc and promised its a good build to do all my gaming, streaming, video editings, recordings, and Vtubing, but I've been getting a lot of black and blue screens lately even from just gaming, so I've been trying to figure out what to replace it with and learned that the ram I wanted wasnt what I thought it was and my cpu is only a Ryzen 7 3800x so now I was talking to friends and Im trying to figure out what I should do, I was looking into processors and was thinking about getting a 5950x processor for more cores to run everything on 1 pc cause I dont have room for a 2nd pc, is there any other recommendations of processors I could possibly pick from that might be better? 
Whats in my pc atm
AMD Ryzen 7 3800X 8-Core Processor                3.90 GHz
 32.0 GB of RAM
X-570 E-Gaming Motherboard
Lian-Li AIO
RTX 3070 TI 
GX-750 PowerSupply
 

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What is the memory you have? if it is not what you expected, maybe you have bad sticks or low-grade sticks.

It would be best to just list your system specs, PC Part Picker is a good place to give us a decent breakdown of what you have.

A R7-3800X is not exactly a bad processor, but if it is paired with bad ram, this might be your issue. Or it could be another reason. What exacatly is the issue you experience when the system blue screens, what errors do you get. 

More information you give the better solutions we can give you.

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40 minutes ago, KajoVT said:

Budget (including currency): $500

Country: United States

Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Video games, Streaming, Vtubing, Recording.

Other details:  So my pc has been having issues ever since my moms friend built my pc and promised its a good build to do all my gaming, streaming, video editings, recordings, and Vtubing, but I've been getting a lot of black and blue screens lately even from just gaming, so I've been trying to figure out what to replace it with and learned that the ram I wanted wasnt what I thought it was and my cpu is only a Ryzen 7 3800x so now I was talking to friends and Im trying to figure out what I should do, I was looking into processors and was thinking about getting a 5950x processor for more cores to run everything on 1 pc cause I dont have room for a 2nd pc, is there any other recommendations of processors I could possibly pick from that might be better? 
Whats in my pc atm
AMD Ryzen 7 3800X 8-Core Processor                3.90 GHz
 32.0 GB of RAM
X-570 E-Gaming Motherboard
Lian-Li AIO
RTX 3070 TI 
GX-750 PowerSupply
 

The CPU you have shouldn't be the cause for the issues you're mentioning and replacing it probably won't solve the mentioned issues.

 

How about you read through this and answer as many questions as possible but here in this thread?

Because we need more data on your system and your issues.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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Before deciding what new part to buy, try to figure out what part exactly is causing these blue screens. Try looking for BugChecks or WHEA-Logger errors in the Event Viewer. Also download WhoCrashed to try and reveal what driver (and therefore hardware) is crashing your PC.

PhiLia093

 

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Deepcool GAMMAXX 400 V2 64.5 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock B450M Steel Legend Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard, BIOS P4.60
Memory: ADATA XPG 32GB GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory
Storage: HP EX900 500 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive, PNY CS900 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Video Card: Colorful iGame RTX 4060 Ti 16GB
Power Supply: Cooler Master MWE Bronze V2 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Pro
Monitor: Acer QG240Y S3 24.0" 1920 x 1080 180Hz Monitor

Headphones: Superlux HD668B

IEMs: Moondrop Chu 2, Tangzu Wan'er Studio Edition

Speakers: Logitech Z313

Phone: Poco F6

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1 hour ago, 191x7 said:

The CPU you have shouldn't be the cause for the issues you're mentioning and replacing it probably won't solve the mentioned issues.

 

How about you read through this and answer as many questions as possible but here in this thread?

Because we need more data on your system and your issues.

Im not the best with tech stuff, So a lot of these questions go over my head and I do apologize is there any way you can simplify it for me? I know about cpu-z and maybe would it just be better if I screenshot the cpu,memory, etc from there? I tried memtest and I honestly had no clue what I was looking at other then it said like 28mbs/sec so I honestly couldnt tell you everything, the person that made it for me kept some of the stuff and I have no clue what is EXACTLY what, but I know I had a file corrupt and it would repeatedly crash and rest my pc and sometimes it would turn on and my monitors wouldnt and I fixed that issue.

Also I stream with streamlabs and I use Vtube Studio for a Live2D Model of a character up as I stream and I mostly play higher end games but it would either blue screen or it would black screen and crash everywhere with multiple colored numbers all over both monitors (I run 2 ASUS TUF Gaming 27" 2K HDR Gaming Monitor (VG27BQ) - WQHD (2560 x 1440), 165Hz (Supports 144Hz), 0.4ms, Extreme Low Motion Blur, Speaker, G-SYNC Compatible, VESA Mountable, DisplayPort, HDMI), so I was gonna replace my RAM with a 3600 cause right now its 2133, but I was told from others as well that I run maybe too much on my pc and I need a higher cored cpu to run everything.

1 hour ago, emothxughts said:

Before deciding what new part to buy, try to figure out what part exactly is causing these blue screens. Try looking for BugChecks or WHEA-Logger errors in the Event Viewer. Also download WhoCrashed to try and reveal what driver (and therefore hardware) is crashing your PC.

Sorry again Im not sure where to start to look at these things but I'll download WhoCrashed to check maybe

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11 minutes ago, KajoVT said:

I know about cpu-z and maybe would it just be better if I screenshot the cpu,memory, etc from there?

 

I tried memtest and I honestly had no clue what I was looking at other then it said like 28mbs/sec so I honestly couldnt tell you everything, 

 

Also I stream with streamlabs and I use Vtube Studio for a Live2D Model of a character up as I stream and I mostly play higher end games but it would either blue screen or it would black screen and crash everywhere with multiple colored numbers all over both monitors

 

so I was gonna replace my RAM with a 3600 cause right now its 2133, but I was told from others as well that I run maybe too much on my pc and I need a higher cored cpu to run everything.

 

Sorry again Im not sure where to start to look at these things but I'll download WhoCrashed to check maybe

Yes, you can post screenshots of the programs I mentioned in that thread.

 

Memtest86 is a program you have to leave running till it finishes and if it detects memory errors you'll know - they get marked in red and you can clearly see.

 

If you're able to stream, you're able to use other programs. 

 

As for the RAM, if the one who built you the system knows what he's doing (based on the build it seems he has a general understanding), he probably put in DDR4 3000, 3200 or 3600. Your RAM probably runs at the default JEDEC specs (2133) because the XMP (DOCP) RAM profile wasn't applied in the Bios.

 

Your issues might be solved by flashing the latest bios and updating the Chipset drivers and GPU drivers.

If you're not willing to learn how to do it, I would strongly advise you to get the system to a capable service or person.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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15 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Yes, you can post screenshots of the programs I mentioned in that thread.

 

Memtest86 is a program you have to leave running till it finishes and if it detects memory errors you'll know - they get marked in red and you can clearly see.

 

If you're able to stream, you're able to use other programs. 

 

As for the RAM, if the one who built you the system knows what he's doing (based on the build it seems he has a general understanding), he probably put in DDR4 3000, 3200 or 3600. Your RAM probably runs at the default JEDEC specs (2133) because the XMP (DOCP) RAM profile wasn't applied in the Bios.

 

Your issues might be solved by flashing the latest bios and updating the Chipset drivers and GPU drivers.

If you're not willing to learn how to do it, I would strongly advise you to get the system to a capable service or person.

Yea I wanna learn this stuff so I can fix any problems in the future for sure

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16 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Yes, you can post screenshots of the programs I mentioned in that thread.

 

Memtest86 is a program you have to leave running till it finishes and if it detects memory errors you'll know - they get marked in red and you can clearly see.

 

If you're able to stream, you're able to use other programs. 

 

As for the RAM, if the one who built you the system knows what he's doing (based on the build it seems he has a general understanding), he probably put in DDR4 3000, 3200 or 3600. Your RAM probably runs at the default JEDEC specs (2133) because the XMP (DOCP) RAM profile wasn't applied in the Bios.

 

Your issues might be solved by flashing the latest bios and updating the Chipset drivers and GPU drivers.

If you're not willing to learn how to do it, I would strongly advise you to get the system to a capable service or person.

Also I did switch it to D.O.C.P. and I raised to ram to 3600 but thats when the rapid blue screens happened also

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7 minutes ago, KajoVT said:

Also I did switch it to D.O.C.P. and I raised to ram to 3600 but thats when the rapid blue screens happened also

That means the RAM wasn't stable at 3600 with the motherboard Bios version you have.

 

So, you need to reset the Bios to defaults (at beast clear the cmos) and then flash the latest bios.

 

Edit:

You have almost the latest Bios and should not be experiencing the issues, at least not as a Bios compatibility issue.

https://rog.asus.com/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-x570-e-gaming-model/helpdesk_bios/

 

Here you have the latest chipset drivers

https://www.amd.com/en/support/chipsets/amd-socket-am4/x570

 

You should repair your windows first

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/topic/use-the-system-file-checker-tool-to-repair-missing-or-corrupted-system-files-79aa86cb-ca52-166a-92a3-966e85d4094e

 

Then we need to find out why your RAM crashes. Maybe there's a faulty RAM stick.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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2 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

That means the RAM wasn't stable at 3600 with the motherboard Bios version you have.

 

So, you need to reset the Bios to defaults (at beast clear the cmos) and then flash the latest bios.

So I load the optimized defaults then update the bios then switch it to D.O.C.P. and should I switch the Ram to 3600? Or should I lower it to like 3200?

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Just now, KajoVT said:

So I load the optimized defaults then update the bios then switch it to D.O.C.P. and should I switch the Ram to 3600? Or should I lower it to like 3200?

I edited the previous post.

 

Yes, if 3600 isn't stable, the next step would be trying out the second DOCP profile or loading the 3600 profile and lowering the frequency manually to 3200.

 

But 3600 should work in your system IF THE RAM HASN'T GONE BAD.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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8 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

That means the RAM wasn't stable at 3600 with the motherboard Bios version you have.

 

So, you need to reset the Bios to defaults (at beast clear the cmos) and then flash the latest bios.

 

Edit:

You have almost the latest Bios and should not be experiencing the issues, at least not as a Bios compatibility issue.

https://rog.asus.com/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-x570-e-gaming-model/helpdesk_bios/

 

Here you have the latest chipset drivers

https://www.amd.com/en/support/chipsets/amd-socket-am4/x570

 

You should repair your windows first

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/topic/use-the-system-file-checker-tool-to-repair-missing-or-corrupted-system-files-79aa86cb-ca52-166a-92a3-966e85d4094e

 

Then we need to find out why your RAM crashes. Maybe there's a faulty RAM stick.

Will the windows repair work on Windows 11 (Sorry forgot to mention that)

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24 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

I edited the previous post.

 

Yes, if 3600 isn't stable, the next step would be trying out the second DOCP profile or loading the 3600 profile and lowering the frequency manually to 3200.

 

But 3600 should work in your system IF THE RAM HASN'T GONE BAD.

I just did it it didnt immediately crash at 3200 

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1 hour ago, KajoVT said:

I just did it it didnt immediately crash at 3200 

You have to check the RAM. You might have a faulty stick.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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1 minute ago, KajoVT said:

How do I check if its faulty?

Assuming you have two RAM sticks.

Take one out and leave only one. Run PassMark memtest86+ till it finishes. Check if any errors were shown/written on the screen.

Take that RAM stick out, put in the second one, do the same test.

If both are fine, repeat the testing, but this time with XMP (DOCP) loaded.

 

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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6 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Assuming you have two RAM sticks.

Take one out and leave only one. Run PassMark memtest86+ till it finishes. Check if any errors were shown/written on the screen.

Take that RAM stick out, put in the second one, do the same test.

If both are fine, repeat the testing, but this time with XMP (DOCP) loaded.

 

Ah ok I have 4x 8GB so I should just do it 4 times then run them all again with D.O.C.P. loaded

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15 minutes ago, KajoVT said:

I'll have to work on that later when its daylight out cause its in the middle of the night so I'll do that after a few hours and get back to you on that

Each run of Memtest86+ takes a few hours to complete.

 

Do 2 by 2.

Test 2 sticks with docp, and if they are fine, test the other two. 

If a pair shows errors, test 1 by 1 out of those 2.

 

image.png.dfa1437a865cb60014d800f1d283ca00.png

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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1 hour ago, KajoVT said:

image.png.e830a353c42b76c6178217c11eab6658.pngSo they are all good now right?

What is that?

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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