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Microphone cutting out / getting quiet midway through speaking

I am using a HyperX cloud II

 

The last week or so my microphone has been cutting out on discord. I've tested the mic on audacity and i have attached a picture of the recording, it just abruptly gets quieter while doing a "aaaaaa" test, but talking normally is fine.
I've tried different usb ports, changing discord voice settings, disabling settings in windows sound control panel but nothing works.

 

I guess the lowering in volume is causing discord to cut out my voice but i have no idea how to fix it 😞

Capture.PNG

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Go to Control Panel, Sound/Audio options, last tab and turn off the option that decreases the volume when a communication app is detected.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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2 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Go to Control Panel, Sound/Audio options, last tab and turn off the option that decreases the volume when a communication app is detected.

already set to Do nothing

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Does the headset come with software to adjust settings? If so, have you checked there? Could be as simple as a software update enabling a new setting. 

 

Also to rule out a few other things: 

 

Do you have Nvidia broadcast installed? 

What is your default input device in your windows settings? 

Just to reconfirm, can you take a screenshot of audacity where the input is also visible? 

There aren't many subjects that benefit from binary takes on them in a discussion.

 

 

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16 minutes ago, nope_ said:

I am using a HyperX cloud II

 

The last week or so my microphone has been cutting out on discord. I've tested the mic on audacity and i have attached a picture of the recording, it just abruptly gets quieter while doing a "aaaaaa" test, but talking normally is fine.
I've tried different usb ports, changing discord voice settings, disabling settings in windows sound control panel but nothing works.

 

I guess the lowering in volume is causing discord to cut out my voice but i have no idea how to fix it 😞

Capture.PNG

Driver updates?

Have you tried turning it off and on again? Maybe Restart it? 

Please make sure to Mark the Solution as a Solution.

Take everything I say with a grain of salt. I could be just about wrong as I am right.

 

Main RIG

13600K (Undervolted) +MSI Z690 Edge Wi-Fi+ Team Elite 32gb RAM (3200) +Noctua Nhd-15 Chromax Black+ Intel 670p 1TB SSD+ Intel Arc A770+ Corsair Crystal 465x case+ EVGA SuperNOVA 650W PSU.+ ASUS VP222 Gaming Monitor

 

Laptop for School: Surface go 2 (sucks ass)

 

Laptop for tinkering: Dell Inspirion 3358

 

Audio: Apple Airpods Pro (1st Gen)

 

(Apple_reigns_ supreme_ forever_ and_ ever)

 

(I am 15 years old and don't know shit about fucking shit.) 

 

Everyone must suffer one of two Pains: The pain of Discipline or the pain of regret and disappointment.

 

-Jim Rohn

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2 minutes ago, creesch said:

Does the headset come with software to adjust settings? If so, have you checked there? Could be as simple as a software update enabling a new setting. 

 

Also to rule out a few other things: 

 

Do you have Nvidia broadcast installed? 

What is your default input device in your windows settings? 

Just to reconfirm, can you take a screenshot of audacity where the input is also visible? 

nvidia broadcast is not installed

default input is the hyperx headset microphone

(input screenshot attatched)

2 minutes ago, FI Fheonix said:

Driver updates?

I forgot to mention i did try a driver update + restart pc but that did not fix it 😞

DvfqgTa.png

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1 minute ago, nope_ said:

nvidia broadcast is not installed

default input is the hyperx headset microphone

(input screenshot attatched)

I forgot to mention i did try a driver update + restart pc but that did not fix it 😞

DvfqgTa.png

Do you have another device to test the MIC with to determine if it is the MIC or your device?

Have you tried turning it off and on again? Maybe Restart it? 

Please make sure to Mark the Solution as a Solution.

Take everything I say with a grain of salt. I could be just about wrong as I am right.

 

Main RIG

13600K (Undervolted) +MSI Z690 Edge Wi-Fi+ Team Elite 32gb RAM (3200) +Noctua Nhd-15 Chromax Black+ Intel 670p 1TB SSD+ Intel Arc A770+ Corsair Crystal 465x case+ EVGA SuperNOVA 650W PSU.+ ASUS VP222 Gaming Monitor

 

Laptop for School: Surface go 2 (sucks ass)

 

Laptop for tinkering: Dell Inspirion 3358

 

Audio: Apple Airpods Pro (1st Gen)

 

(Apple_reigns_ supreme_ forever_ and_ ever)

 

(I am 15 years old and don't know shit about fucking shit.) 

 

Everyone must suffer one of two Pains: The pain of Discipline or the pain of regret and disappointment.

 

-Jim Rohn

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21 minutes ago, nope_ said:

nvidia broadcast is not installed

default input is the hyperx headset microphone

(input screenshot attatched)

I forgot to mention i did try a driver update + restart pc but that did not fix it 😞

DvfqgTa.png

And you checked the settings for the headset software as well? Because it seems like to me that some kind of noise cancelling thing has been enabled somewhere.

There aren't many subjects that benefit from binary takes on them in a discussion.

 

 

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29 minutes ago, nope_ said:

nvidia broadcast is not installed

default input is the hyperx headset microphone

(input screenshot attatched)

I forgot to mention i did try a driver update + restart pc but that did not fix it 😞

DvfqgTa.png

Oh, didn't realize you were using that trash "soundcard" that comes with the headset and ruins the sound. Most people use a 4-pole to 2 3-pole Y splitter and connect that headset to something better like a decent onboard or a soundcard or even an amp/dac. Those "HyperX usb dongles" also die like crazy, for the first series HyperX was giving them to whoever claimed their USB adapter died.

 

If yo uwant to vastly improve the audio quality of that headset, plug it into something else. Even something cheap like

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003955547612.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.83.53df1802PYct9H

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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19 hours ago, 191x7 said:

Oh, didn't realize you were using that trash "soundcard" that comes with the headset and ruins the sound. Most people use a 4-pole to 2 3-pole Y splitter and connect that headset to something better like a decent onboard or a soundcard or even an amp/dac. Those "HyperX usb dongles" also die like crazy, for the first series HyperX was giving them to whoever claimed their USB adapter died.

 

If yo uwant to vastly improve the audio quality of that headset, plug it into something else. Even something cheap like

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003955547612.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.83.53df1802PYct9H

While you might be right about the general quality, it isn't an answer to their question. Until recently it clearly worked for them and now it is behaving differently. I also highly doubt that most people do what you suggest. In fact, a majority of buyers probably simply uses the dongle it comes with. 

 

Sure, getting a different usb sound card probably also resolves the issue but that also means spending money or just waiting a long ass time for your suggestion and potentially still spending money on import taxes and such. 

 

@nope_can you open up the hyperX software? I am assuming you have it installed anyway and that issue is hiding somewhere in there. 

There aren't many subjects that benefit from binary takes on them in a discussion.

 

 

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1 hour ago, creesch said:

While you might be right about the general quality, it isn't an answer to their question. Until recently it clearly worked for them and now it is behaving differently. I also highly doubt that most people do what you suggest. In fact, a majority of buyers probably simply uses the dongle it comes with. 

 

Sure, getting a different usb sound card probably also resolves the issue but that also means spending money or just waiting a long ass time for your suggestion and potentially still spending money on import taxes and such. 

 

@nope_can you open up the hyperX software? I am assuming you have it installed anyway and that issue is hiding somewhere in there. 

Actually, the USB soundcard dies and his symptom is one of the symptoms.

 

He should contact HyperX and ask for a card, they won't even require the sending of the whole package like usually - just send him a new card.

And that's pointless since a 3€ adapter solves the issue and sounds better.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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