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Upgrade PC or Parts?

Georgeagea

Hello,

 

So I have this PC currently:

Case: Xigmatek Venom

Motherboard: MSI Z270 Gaming M5 LGA 1151 DDR4 HDMI VR Ready ATX

CPU: Intel Core i7 7700 8M Cache, up to 4.20 GHz.

Cooler: Thermaltake Riing Silent 12 RGB Sync Edition

GPU: Asus Dual GeForce RTX 3060 OC Edition 

RAM: 32GB, T-force Vulcan 2x16GB DDR4 3000Mhz

System Storage SSD: SK HYNIX BC501 256GB

SSD Storage 1: HP EX900 M.2 1TB PCIe3.0 M.2 NVMe

SSD Storage 2: Kingston SSD 960GB A400 SATA 3 2.5" Internal SSD

HDD Storage 3: Seagate ST1000DM003 1TB HDD

PSU: Cooler Master Extreme 2 - 725W

Screens: Triple Monitors - 3*AOC 27G2U/BK 27" 1080P Frameless IPS Panel, 144Hz 1ms MPRT, Freesync and Gsync

 

 

I play all sort of games but mostly Simracing on triple montiors 1080p as shown above.

I also do stream on OBS at 1080p/60fps.

Lately with so many software running on my PC (like SIMHUB, Prismatic, Crewchief, etc...) as well as streaming, I'm noticing that my CPU is choking a lot. I see it at around 90 to 100% and I have a big dip in FPS as well as stutters.

 

So I was looking into one of 2 things, either change CPU + Motherboard, or change the whole thing.

 

The economic situation here (LEBANON) is very tough so I would like to take the most sensible thing to do and not throw money away, if I don't need to.

 

Option 1:

Swap my i7 7700 + msi z270 for a MSI MAG B660M Mortar WiFi DDR4 + Intel®Core™i5-13600K ,

The new board + cpu could cost me like 500$.

I "assume" I can sell my mobo + cpu for like 150$.

That would cost me (as a difference) ~350$ in total.

Not sure if my RAM, my cooler or my PSU could cause any issues for me.

 

Option 2: 

Get a whole new build including same i5 13600k with same B660M board but with maybe faster RAM, better PSU, better GPU like a RTX3070 which might serve me well in my triples gaming.

OR

Get a whole new build including ryzen 5 7600x with a new AM5 motherboard, DDR5 etc...better PSU, better GPU like a RTX3070 which might serve me well in my triples gaming.

I assume this could cost like 1300$ to 1600$ total new.

My PC should get me used around 500 to 600$ I hope (keeping 2 storage SSDs to migrate to the new PC).

So the whole thing would cost me (as a difference) ~800 to 1000$ in total.

 

Do you guys think Option 1 is a good choice? Can such a build give me the uplift in raw and cpu performance that I need? Would it serve me for another 5 years down the line? (ofc assuming no hardware malfunction take place).

Or do you think option 1 is a waste of money and I better pay more but change the whole PC?

 

Thank you for reading all this and replying.

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Really option 1 will give you most of the extra power you want, upgrading everything else or switching to AM5 will just give you a small performance increase for a lot of addiotnal money

 

 

System : AMD R9  7950X3D CPU/ Asus ROG STRIX X670E-E board/ 2x32GB G-Skill Trident Z Neo 6000CL30 RAM ASUS TUF Gaming AMD Radeon RX 7900 XTX OC Edition GPU/ Phanteks P600S case /  Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 cooler (with 2xArctic P12 Max fans) /  2TB WD SN850 NVme + 2TB Crucial T500  NVme  + 4TB Toshiba X300 HDD / Corsair RM850x PSU

Alienware AW3420DW 34" 120Hz 3440x1440p monitor / Logitech G915TKL keyboard (wireless) / Logitech G PRO X Superlight mouse / Audeze Maxwell headphones

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Ugrading from a 3060 to a 3070 is kinda meh

 

You might not even be able to sell anything at a reasonable price

Asus ROG G531GT : i7-9750H - GTX 1650M +700mem - MSI RX6600 Armor 8G M.2 eGPU - Samsung 16+8GB PC4-2666 - Samsung 860 EVO 500G 2.5" - 1920x1080@145Hz (172Hz) IPS panel

Family PC : i5-4570 (-125mV) - cheap dual-pipe cooler - Gigabyte Z87M-HD3 Rev1.1 - Kingston HyperX Fury 4x4GB PC3-1600 - Corsair VX450W - an old Thermaltake ATX case

Test bench 1 G3260 - i5-4690K - 6-pipe cooler - Asus Z97-AR - Panram Blue Lightsaber 2x4GB PC3-2800 - Micron CT500P1SSD8 NVMe - Intel SSD320 40G SSD

iMac 21.5" (late 2011) : i5-2400S, HD 6750M 512MB - Samsung 4x4GB PC3-1333 - WT200 512G SSD (High Sierra) - 1920x1080@60 LCD

 

Test bench 2: G3260 - H81M-C - Kingston 2x4GB PC3-1600 - Winten WT200 512G

Acer Z5610 "Theatre" C2 Quad Q9550 - G45 Express - 2x2GB PC3-1333 (Samsung) - 1920x1080@60Hz Touch LCD - great internal speakers

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Option 1 seems good. Not sure if you realy should get the k as the non k chips launched with much reduced pricing.

 

Make sure the board is ddr4 and not 5 sometimes there are 2 version of a nearly identical named board.

 

The psu id say would be time to go. It was a lower end unit in 2013 and id not trust it anymore at this point.

 

Cooler is compatible IF you get a adaptor kit OR if your board supports lga 115x mounting holes. Then a new bracket isnt needed.

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I'd go with option #1.

Much more cost efficient and you'd be able to really max out that 3060.

If you're OK with your storage and GPU performance, you can easily upgrade CPU and mainboard and squeeze another 2 / 3 years from your build.

  

MAIN PC: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2400G | Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-AB350-Gaming | RAM: 16Gb DDR4 Patriot Viper 4 3200 | GPU: XFX RX580 4Gb GTS | Case: Sharkoon S25-W | Storage: M.2 NVME Adata Gammix S10 128Gb + SATA SSD WD Blue 1Tb | ODD: LG GH24NSD1 | PSU: Seasonic Core GM-500 | Display: AOC I2490PXQU | Cooler: Wraith Stealth | Keyboard: Logitech K120 | Mouse: Logitech B100 | Sound: the usual integrated Realtek | OS: Windows 10 Pro 64bit

RETRO PC: CPU: AMD Athlon 64 2800+ | Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-K8VM800M | RAM: 2Gb DDR 800 | GPU: ATi Radeon 9600 Pro 128Mb | Case: Tacens Anima AC4500 | Storage: IDE WD Blue 80Gb + IDE DVD-RW drive + floppy drive | Sound: Terratec 128i ESS Solo-1 PCI | OS: Windows 98 SE + Windows XP SP3 + Linux Bionic Pup 32
HTPC: CPU: AMD Athlon 3000G | Motherboard: AsRock B450M-HDV R4.0 | RAM: 16Gb DDR4 G.Skill Aegis 3200 | Case: Aerocool CS-101 | Storage: SATA SSD Silicon Power A55 256Gb | ODD: LG blu-ray WH14NS40 | OS: Windows 10 Pro 64bit

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  • 2 weeks later...

@jaslion

@DeadnightWarrior

@thekingofmonks

@PDifolco

Thank you guys for your replies. And sorry for tagging you but I thought this could be better than posting a new thread. 

 

So I bought the MSI B660M MORTAR wifi ddr4 and the i5 13600k. I also got a new cooler, the Cougar Forza 85 which is a huge air cooler and should be able to take care of it. 

 

Yet, the cpu easily hit 90deg in some conditions and I'd like to reduce that. 

So I'm looking into undervolting. I've read that B series motherboards are usually not able to do that, except some MSI boards which it seems I have one of these. 

 

Attached are 2IMG20230120162351.thumb.jpg.e7e9fb412d5f3330057ff7daec4f0dba.jpgIMG20230120162334.thumb.jpg.b6eab92f18ced9abd03c9d5b67b8d746.jpg photos of what the BIOS shows for me. 

Any simple guide or tips for a noob like me to undervolt the cpu without losing performance and making it cooler? What should I change? 

 

Thanks again! 

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53 minutes ago, Georgeagea said:

@jaslion

@DeadnightWarrior

@thekingofmonks

@PDifolco

Thank you guys for your replies. And sorry for tagging you but I thought this could be better than posting a new thread. 

 

So I bought the MSI B660M MORTAR wifi ddr4 and the i5 13600k. I also got a new cooler, the Cougar Forza 85 which is a huge air cooler and should be able to take care of it. 

 

Yet, the cpu easily hit 90deg in some conditions and I'd like to reduce that. 

So I'm looking into undervolting. I've read that B series motherboards are usually not able to do that, except some MSI boards which it seems I have one of these. 

 

Attached are 2IMG20230120162351.thumb.jpg.e7e9fb412d5f3330057ff7daec4f0dba.jpgIMG20230120162334.thumb.jpg.b6eab92f18ced9abd03c9d5b67b8d746.jpg photos of what the BIOS shows for me. 

Any simple guide or tips for a noob like me to undervolt the cpu without losing performance and making it cooler? What should I change? 

 

Thanks again! 

Well I'm not much into Intel OC since quite some time, switched to AMD, yet I'd suggest you just reduce the ridiculously high max Power Limit to something manageable around 150W, this will naturally make temps back to reasonable levels

System : AMD R9  7950X3D CPU/ Asus ROG STRIX X670E-E board/ 2x32GB G-Skill Trident Z Neo 6000CL30 RAM ASUS TUF Gaming AMD Radeon RX 7900 XTX OC Edition GPU/ Phanteks P600S case /  Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 cooler (with 2xArctic P12 Max fans) /  2TB WD SN850 NVme + 2TB Crucial T500  NVme  + 4TB Toshiba X300 HDD / Corsair RM850x PSU

Alienware AW3420DW 34" 120Hz 3440x1440p monitor / Logitech G915TKL keyboard (wireless) / Logitech G PRO X Superlight mouse / Audeze Maxwell headphones

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