Jump to content

So my new pc started bootlooping it worked fine before. It’s not more than 2 weeks old. 
 

I’ve tried reseating my: Gpu, Ram and m.2 ssd.

 

I’ve taken out the cmos battery cause I enabled xmp and thought that might be it but that didn’t work. 

 

I’ve unplugged every psu cable and bluffed it In again (except the motherboard one cause it’s quite difficult on my motherboard. 

 

I’ve tried a different set of ram and starting it without the gpu and in a different pcie slot. 

 

Idk what else to try now


[Video of the loop](https://imgur.com/a/8ODgPvb)
 

MoBo: ASUs prime z790-p Wi-Fi d4

CPU: i5-13600k

RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum ddr4 4000 c19 Dc

Gpu: 2060 s ROG (used)

Link to comment
https://linustechtips.com/topic/1474362-my-new-pc-started-bootlooping/
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Briefly removing the CMOS battery is often not enough to fully clear CMOS. You can try removing the battery for a longer duration, or using the clear CMOS header on your motherboard:

Spoiler

image.thumb.png.5480ccb35834a90cd37581c5e7450f25.png

 

If that does not work, try removing/disconnecting all devices that are not required to get to the BIOS. That includes all but one stick of RAM, all add-on cards, discrete GPU (since you have an iGPU in your CPU), HDDs, SSDs, USB devices etc.

 

If that doesn't work, try the other stick of RAM. Try each in every slot.

BabyBlu.2 (Primary): 

  • CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 9600X
  • Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B650E-F
  • RAM: G.Skill Flare X5 64GB (2x32GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 @ 6400MHz 30-40-40-96
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X, 2100MHz core, 8000MHz mem
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: XPG SX8200 Pro 2TB, 3x ADATASU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Display: MSI MPG341CQR 34" 3440x1440 144Hz Freesync, Dell S2417DG 24" 2560x1440 165Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 11 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600
  • Motherboard: Gigabyte B650I AORUS ULTRA
  • RAM: G.Skill Flare X5 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5-6000 @ 6000MHz 30-38-38-96
  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 w/ LM
  • Case: Cooler Master MasterBox NR200
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Silicon Power A80 2TB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair SF850L
  • Display: Dell Alienware AW3420DW GSync
  • Cooling: Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280mm
  • Keyboard: GMMK TKL(Kailh Box White)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 11 Pro

BigBox (HTPC):

  • CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D
  • Motherboard: Gigabyte B550i Aorus Pro AX
  • RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB DDR4-3600 @ 3600MHz 14-14-14-28
  • GPU: MSI RTX 3080 Ventus 3X Plus OC, de-shrouded, LM TIM, replaced mem therm pads
  • Case: Fractal Design Node 202
  • Storage: SP A80 1TB, WD Black SN770 2TB
  • PSU: Corsair SF600 Gold w/ NF-A9x14
  • Display: Samsung QN90A 65" (QLED, 4K, 120Hz, HDR, VRR)
  • Cooling: Thermalright AXP-100 Copper w/ NF-A12x15
  • Keyboard/Mouse: Rii i4
  • Controllers: 4X Xbox One & 2X N64 (with USB)
  • Sound: Denon AVR S760H with 5.1.2 Atmos setup.
  • OS: Windows 11 Pro

Harmonic (NAS/Game/Plex/Other Server):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 6700
  • Motherboard: ASRock FATAL1TY H270M
  • RAM: 64GB DDR4-2133
  • GPU: Intel HD Graphics 530
  • Case: Fractal Design Define 7
  • HDD: 3X Seagate Exos X16 14TB in RAID 5
  • SSD: Inland Premium 512GB NVME, Sabrent 1TB NVME
  • Optical: BDXL WH14NS40 flashed to WH16NS60
  • PSU: Corsair CX450
  • Display: None
  • Cooling: Noctua NH-U14S
  • Keyboard/Mouse: None
  • 2.5Gb NIC
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
Link to post
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, Hairless Monkey Boy said:

Briefly removing the CMOS battery is often not enough to fully clear CMOS. You can try removing the battery for a longer duration, or using the clear CMOS header on your motherboard:

  Reveal hidden contents

image.thumb.png.5480ccb35834a90cd37581c5e7450f25.png

 

If that does not work, try removing/disconnecting all devices that are not required to get to the BIOS. That includes all but one stick of RAM, all add-on cards, discrete GPU (since you have an iGPU in your CPU), HDDs, SSDs, USB devices etc.

 

If that doesn't work, try the other stick of RAM. Try each in every slot.

Hi yeah I Tried shorting the pins both with and without the battery in but it’s still bootlooping. 
 

So now with only the ram stick. But before that. Also the fan controller and aio?

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Badwasp said:

Also the fan controller and aio?

No, you don't need to remove those.

 

We are trying to rule out a malfunctioning device that is preventing the motherboard from POSTing. The AIO and fan controller can't do that, but they could cause electrical problems (which would manifest differently).

 

So to do this test, you need only remove devices that may get initialized and tested during POST.

BabyBlu.2 (Primary): 

  • CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 9600X
  • Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B650E-F
  • RAM: G.Skill Flare X5 64GB (2x32GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 @ 6400MHz 30-40-40-96
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X, 2100MHz core, 8000MHz mem
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: XPG SX8200 Pro 2TB, 3x ADATASU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Display: MSI MPG341CQR 34" 3440x1440 144Hz Freesync, Dell S2417DG 24" 2560x1440 165Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 11 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600
  • Motherboard: Gigabyte B650I AORUS ULTRA
  • RAM: G.Skill Flare X5 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5-6000 @ 6000MHz 30-38-38-96
  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 w/ LM
  • Case: Cooler Master MasterBox NR200
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Silicon Power A80 2TB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair SF850L
  • Display: Dell Alienware AW3420DW GSync
  • Cooling: Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280mm
  • Keyboard: GMMK TKL(Kailh Box White)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 11 Pro

BigBox (HTPC):

  • CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D
  • Motherboard: Gigabyte B550i Aorus Pro AX
  • RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB DDR4-3600 @ 3600MHz 14-14-14-28
  • GPU: MSI RTX 3080 Ventus 3X Plus OC, de-shrouded, LM TIM, replaced mem therm pads
  • Case: Fractal Design Node 202
  • Storage: SP A80 1TB, WD Black SN770 2TB
  • PSU: Corsair SF600 Gold w/ NF-A9x14
  • Display: Samsung QN90A 65" (QLED, 4K, 120Hz, HDR, VRR)
  • Cooling: Thermalright AXP-100 Copper w/ NF-A12x15
  • Keyboard/Mouse: Rii i4
  • Controllers: 4X Xbox One & 2X N64 (with USB)
  • Sound: Denon AVR S760H with 5.1.2 Atmos setup.
  • OS: Windows 11 Pro

Harmonic (NAS/Game/Plex/Other Server):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 6700
  • Motherboard: ASRock FATAL1TY H270M
  • RAM: 64GB DDR4-2133
  • GPU: Intel HD Graphics 530
  • Case: Fractal Design Define 7
  • HDD: 3X Seagate Exos X16 14TB in RAID 5
  • SSD: Inland Premium 512GB NVME, Sabrent 1TB NVME
  • Optical: BDXL WH14NS40 flashed to WH16NS60
  • PSU: Corsair CX450
  • Display: None
  • Cooling: Noctua NH-U14S
  • Keyboard/Mouse: None
  • 2.5Gb NIC
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
Link to post
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, Hairless Monkey Boy said:

No, you don't need to remove those.

 

We are trying to rule out a malfunctioning device that is preventing the motherboard from POSTing. The AIO and fan controller can't do that, but they could cause electrical problems (which would manifest differently).

 

So to do this test, you need only remove devices that may get initialized and tested during POST.

Okay thanks. I removed everything and put both ram sticks in every dimm still boot looped. 
 

Btw when shorting the pins I’m not supposed to turn on the pc right? It doesn’t say I have to so I just presume I shouldn’t do that.

Link to post
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, Badwasp said:

Btw when shorting the pins I’m not supposed to turn on the pc right? It doesn’t say I have to so I just presume I shouldn’t do that.

No. And you should have the system unplugged and/or the PSU power switch in the off position.

BabyBlu.2 (Primary): 

  • CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 9600X
  • Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B650E-F
  • RAM: G.Skill Flare X5 64GB (2x32GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 @ 6400MHz 30-40-40-96
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X, 2100MHz core, 8000MHz mem
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: XPG SX8200 Pro 2TB, 3x ADATASU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Display: MSI MPG341CQR 34" 3440x1440 144Hz Freesync, Dell S2417DG 24" 2560x1440 165Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 11 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600
  • Motherboard: Gigabyte B650I AORUS ULTRA
  • RAM: G.Skill Flare X5 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5-6000 @ 6000MHz 30-38-38-96
  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 w/ LM
  • Case: Cooler Master MasterBox NR200
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Silicon Power A80 2TB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair SF850L
  • Display: Dell Alienware AW3420DW GSync
  • Cooling: Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280mm
  • Keyboard: GMMK TKL(Kailh Box White)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 11 Pro

BigBox (HTPC):

  • CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D
  • Motherboard: Gigabyte B550i Aorus Pro AX
  • RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB DDR4-3600 @ 3600MHz 14-14-14-28
  • GPU: MSI RTX 3080 Ventus 3X Plus OC, de-shrouded, LM TIM, replaced mem therm pads
  • Case: Fractal Design Node 202
  • Storage: SP A80 1TB, WD Black SN770 2TB
  • PSU: Corsair SF600 Gold w/ NF-A9x14
  • Display: Samsung QN90A 65" (QLED, 4K, 120Hz, HDR, VRR)
  • Cooling: Thermalright AXP-100 Copper w/ NF-A12x15
  • Keyboard/Mouse: Rii i4
  • Controllers: 4X Xbox One & 2X N64 (with USB)
  • Sound: Denon AVR S760H with 5.1.2 Atmos setup.
  • OS: Windows 11 Pro

Harmonic (NAS/Game/Plex/Other Server):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 6700
  • Motherboard: ASRock FATAL1TY H270M
  • RAM: 64GB DDR4-2133
  • GPU: Intel HD Graphics 530
  • Case: Fractal Design Define 7
  • HDD: 3X Seagate Exos X16 14TB in RAID 5
  • SSD: Inland Premium 512GB NVME, Sabrent 1TB NVME
  • Optical: BDXL WH14NS40 flashed to WH16NS60
  • PSU: Corsair CX450
  • Display: None
  • Cooling: Noctua NH-U14S
  • Keyboard/Mouse: None
  • 2.5Gb NIC
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't see any debug LEDs on your motherboard.

 

If the problem persists, you'll have to connect the speaker that came with your motherboard so you can hear the beep code.

BabyBlu.2 (Primary): 

  • CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 9600X
  • Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B650E-F
  • RAM: G.Skill Flare X5 64GB (2x32GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 @ 6400MHz 30-40-40-96
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X, 2100MHz core, 8000MHz mem
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: XPG SX8200 Pro 2TB, 3x ADATASU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Display: MSI MPG341CQR 34" 3440x1440 144Hz Freesync, Dell S2417DG 24" 2560x1440 165Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 11 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600
  • Motherboard: Gigabyte B650I AORUS ULTRA
  • RAM: G.Skill Flare X5 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5-6000 @ 6000MHz 30-38-38-96
  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 w/ LM
  • Case: Cooler Master MasterBox NR200
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Silicon Power A80 2TB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair SF850L
  • Display: Dell Alienware AW3420DW GSync
  • Cooling: Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280mm
  • Keyboard: GMMK TKL(Kailh Box White)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 11 Pro

BigBox (HTPC):

  • CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D
  • Motherboard: Gigabyte B550i Aorus Pro AX
  • RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB DDR4-3600 @ 3600MHz 14-14-14-28
  • GPU: MSI RTX 3080 Ventus 3X Plus OC, de-shrouded, LM TIM, replaced mem therm pads
  • Case: Fractal Design Node 202
  • Storage: SP A80 1TB, WD Black SN770 2TB
  • PSU: Corsair SF600 Gold w/ NF-A9x14
  • Display: Samsung QN90A 65" (QLED, 4K, 120Hz, HDR, VRR)
  • Cooling: Thermalright AXP-100 Copper w/ NF-A12x15
  • Keyboard/Mouse: Rii i4
  • Controllers: 4X Xbox One & 2X N64 (with USB)
  • Sound: Denon AVR S760H with 5.1.2 Atmos setup.
  • OS: Windows 11 Pro

Harmonic (NAS/Game/Plex/Other Server):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 6700
  • Motherboard: ASRock FATAL1TY H270M
  • RAM: 64GB DDR4-2133
  • GPU: Intel HD Graphics 530
  • Case: Fractal Design Define 7
  • HDD: 3X Seagate Exos X16 14TB in RAID 5
  • SSD: Inland Premium 512GB NVME, Sabrent 1TB NVME
  • Optical: BDXL WH14NS40 flashed to WH16NS60
  • PSU: Corsair CX450
  • Display: None
  • Cooling: Noctua NH-U14S
  • Keyboard/Mouse: None
  • 2.5Gb NIC
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Hairless Monkey Boy said:

I don't see any debug LEDs on your motherboard.

 

If the problem persists, you'll have to connect the speaker that came with your motherboard so you can hear the beep code.

Yeah I didn’t realise it didn’t have any debug leds when I bought it. It didn’t come with a speaker. Can I just connect a regular speaker?

Link to post
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Badwasp said:

Yeah I didn’t realise it didn’t have any debug leds when I bought it. It didn’t come with a speaker. Can I just connect a regular speaker?

Hmmm. Well. The most likely thing right now is that the motherboard itself is defective. If I were you I'd try to scrounge a beep code speaker from somewhere (a friend, an old system etc).

 

If I couldn't find one, then I'd just go ahead and RMA the motherboard.

BabyBlu.2 (Primary): 

  • CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 9600X
  • Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B650E-F
  • RAM: G.Skill Flare X5 64GB (2x32GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 @ 6400MHz 30-40-40-96
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X, 2100MHz core, 8000MHz mem
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: XPG SX8200 Pro 2TB, 3x ADATASU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Display: MSI MPG341CQR 34" 3440x1440 144Hz Freesync, Dell S2417DG 24" 2560x1440 165Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 11 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600
  • Motherboard: Gigabyte B650I AORUS ULTRA
  • RAM: G.Skill Flare X5 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5-6000 @ 6000MHz 30-38-38-96
  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 w/ LM
  • Case: Cooler Master MasterBox NR200
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Silicon Power A80 2TB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair SF850L
  • Display: Dell Alienware AW3420DW GSync
  • Cooling: Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280mm
  • Keyboard: GMMK TKL(Kailh Box White)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 11 Pro

BigBox (HTPC):

  • CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D
  • Motherboard: Gigabyte B550i Aorus Pro AX
  • RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB DDR4-3600 @ 3600MHz 14-14-14-28
  • GPU: MSI RTX 3080 Ventus 3X Plus OC, de-shrouded, LM TIM, replaced mem therm pads
  • Case: Fractal Design Node 202
  • Storage: SP A80 1TB, WD Black SN770 2TB
  • PSU: Corsair SF600 Gold w/ NF-A9x14
  • Display: Samsung QN90A 65" (QLED, 4K, 120Hz, HDR, VRR)
  • Cooling: Thermalright AXP-100 Copper w/ NF-A12x15
  • Keyboard/Mouse: Rii i4
  • Controllers: 4X Xbox One & 2X N64 (with USB)
  • Sound: Denon AVR S760H with 5.1.2 Atmos setup.
  • OS: Windows 11 Pro

Harmonic (NAS/Game/Plex/Other Server):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 6700
  • Motherboard: ASRock FATAL1TY H270M
  • RAM: 64GB DDR4-2133
  • GPU: Intel HD Graphics 530
  • Case: Fractal Design Define 7
  • HDD: 3X Seagate Exos X16 14TB in RAID 5
  • SSD: Inland Premium 512GB NVME, Sabrent 1TB NVME
  • Optical: BDXL WH14NS40 flashed to WH16NS60
  • PSU: Corsair CX450
  • Display: None
  • Cooling: Noctua NH-U14S
  • Keyboard/Mouse: None
  • 2.5Gb NIC
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
Link to post
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Hairless Monkey Boy said:

Hmmm. Well. The most likely thing right now is that the motherboard itself is defective. If I were you I'd try to scrounge a beep code speaker from somewhere (a friend, an old system etc).

 

If I couldn't find one, then I'd just go ahead and RMA the motherboard.

Okay thanks. I think I’m gonna RMA the motherboard and buy a better one then.

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 12/16/2022 at 6:03 PM, Badwasp said:

Okay thanks. I think I’m gonna RMA the motherboard and buy a better one then.

Hey I bought a new motherboard only for it to bootloop again. This time it does have leds. The problem is the cpu. Idk what happened with my cpu.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×