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This friend I have been talking about will be coming around with his PSU in a bit, I do have another but it isn't modular and having to rewire everything would just be very inconvenient, I have already asked Amazon for another Motherboard to be sent out to me as I thought that the RAM problem was being caused by the slots, my PSU also is in the time frame to be returned if necessary  

Technically you don't have to rewire everything.  Protip: TO test a PSU, remove the wall adapter from the one you are using and plug it int othe test unit. Then unplug the EPS, ATX and PCIe power from your motherboard/GPU and replace them with cables from the test PSU. Don't worry about undoing the cable management. Just unplug and run the new on strait in (meaning your PSU will be somewhere either on top of the one you suspect of being broken, or outside the case parallel to the motherboard). Then power up and test for the error.  If you still experience it, and the test unit is of sufficient power for the system (no quad SLI on a 300 watt test unit for example) then you have ruled out your PSU (unless the test unit is broken too).

 

From above, the only strange thing I see is there are only 2 workers in P95, but that could just be a matter of scrolling. Nothing to worry about there. (also let it run for several hours and see if it crashes).

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Desktop <dead?> 

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P8P67-WS/Z77 Extreme4/H61DE-S3. 4x4 Samsung 1600MHz/1x8GB Gskill 1866MHzC9. 750W OCZ ZT/750w Corsair CX. GTX480/Sapphire HD7950 1.05GHz (OC). Adata SP600 256GB x2/SSG 830 128GB/1TB Hatachi Deskstar/3TB Seagate. Windows XP/7Pro, Windows 10 on Test drive. FreeBSD and Fedora on liveboot USB3 drives. 

 

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Laptop <Works Beyond Spec>

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HP-DM3. Pentium U5400. 2x4GB DDR3 1600MHz (Samsung iirc). Intel HD. 512GB SSD. 8TB USB drive (Western Digital). Coil Wine!!!!!! (Is that a spec?). 

 

 

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Technically you don't have to rewire everything.  Protip: TO test a PSU, remove the wall adapter from the one you are using and plug it int othe test unit. Then unplug the EPS, ATX and PCIe power from your motherboard/GPU and replace them with cables from the test PSU. Don't worry about undoing the cable management. Just unplug and run the new on strait in (meaning your PSU will be somewhere either on top of the one you suspect of being broken, or outside the case parallel to the motherboard). Then power up and test for the error.  If you still experience it, and the test unit is of sufficient power for the system (no quad SLI on a 300 watt test unit for example) then you have ruled out your PSU (unless the test unit is broken too).

 

From above, the only strange thing I see is there are only 2 workers in P95, but that could just be a matter of scrolling. Nothing to worry about there. (also let it run for several hours and see if it crashes).

Thanks, I shall try using my other PSU to see if that solves the problem, I the prime95 page is just hidden behind kombuster, all the workers are there. 

 

Thanks for your help by the way

CPU  Intel i7 5820k Motherboard Asus X99-S  RAM  32GB (8x4) Kingston Hyper X Fury GPU EVGA GTX 1080Ti SC2 iCX Case Fractal Design R4 Windowed Storage 500GB Samsung 850 Evo + 120GB Crucial M500 SSD + 2TB Seagate Barracuda + 1TB Western Digital Blue PSU Corsair RM1000 Display 2x Asus VS239HV Cooling  Noctua NH-D15 Keyboard  Corsair K70 RGB Mouse Logitech G502 Gaming Surface Razer Golitahus Extended Speed

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Thanks, I shall try using my other PSU to see if that solves the problem, I the prime95 page is just hidden behind kombuster, all the workers are there. 

 

Thanks for your help by the way

Okay, that makes since.  

 

And no problem. I like helping people when I can.

Spoiler

Desktop <dead?> 

Spoiler

P8P67-WS/Z77 Extreme4/H61DE-S3. 4x4 Samsung 1600MHz/1x8GB Gskill 1866MHzC9. 750W OCZ ZT/750w Corsair CX. GTX480/Sapphire HD7950 1.05GHz (OC). Adata SP600 256GB x2/SSG 830 128GB/1TB Hatachi Deskstar/3TB Seagate. Windows XP/7Pro, Windows 10 on Test drive. FreeBSD and Fedora on liveboot USB3 drives. 

 

Spoiler

Laptop <Works Beyond Spec>

Spoiler

HP-DM3. Pentium U5400. 2x4GB DDR3 1600MHz (Samsung iirc). Intel HD. 512GB SSD. 8TB USB drive (Western Digital). Coil Wine!!!!!! (Is that a spec?). 

 

 

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Okay, that makes since.  

 

And no problem. I like helping people when I can.

Just tried my other psu, 620w seasonic, the system wont even boot with it

CPU  Intel i7 5820k Motherboard Asus X99-S  RAM  32GB (8x4) Kingston Hyper X Fury GPU EVGA GTX 1080Ti SC2 iCX Case Fractal Design R4 Windowed Storage 500GB Samsung 850 Evo + 120GB Crucial M500 SSD + 2TB Seagate Barracuda + 1TB Western Digital Blue PSU Corsair RM1000 Display 2x Asus VS239HV Cooling  Noctua NH-D15 Keyboard  Corsair K70 RGB Mouse Logitech G502 Gaming Surface Razer Golitahus Extended Speed

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Okay, that makes since.  

 

And no problem. I like helping people when I can.

Is there a possibility also that the problem could lie with the CPU? as that really is the only component left over from an old build 

CPU  Intel i7 5820k Motherboard Asus X99-S  RAM  32GB (8x4) Kingston Hyper X Fury GPU EVGA GTX 1080Ti SC2 iCX Case Fractal Design R4 Windowed Storage 500GB Samsung 850 Evo + 120GB Crucial M500 SSD + 2TB Seagate Barracuda + 1TB Western Digital Blue PSU Corsair RM1000 Display 2x Asus VS239HV Cooling  Noctua NH-D15 Keyboard  Corsair K70 RGB Mouse Logitech G502 Gaming Surface Razer Golitahus Extended Speed

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Is there a possibility also that the problem could lie with the CPU? as that really is the only component left over from an old build 

It is a possibility, but it is very very very rare to have a bad CPU. You are more likely to get struck by lightning standing on the deck of the Titanic holding a winning lottery ticket than you are to have a CPU fail without very extreme overclocking.

 

As for the seasonic PSU, that sounds strange. Can you test it using the paperclip method and see if it is functional at all? (also, did you make sure the PSU switch was on?).

Spoiler

Desktop <dead?> 

Spoiler

P8P67-WS/Z77 Extreme4/H61DE-S3. 4x4 Samsung 1600MHz/1x8GB Gskill 1866MHzC9. 750W OCZ ZT/750w Corsair CX. GTX480/Sapphire HD7950 1.05GHz (OC). Adata SP600 256GB x2/SSG 830 128GB/1TB Hatachi Deskstar/3TB Seagate. Windows XP/7Pro, Windows 10 on Test drive. FreeBSD and Fedora on liveboot USB3 drives. 

 

Spoiler

Laptop <Works Beyond Spec>

Spoiler

HP-DM3. Pentium U5400. 2x4GB DDR3 1600MHz (Samsung iirc). Intel HD. 512GB SSD. 8TB USB drive (Western Digital). Coil Wine!!!!!! (Is that a spec?). 

 

 

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It is a possibility, but it is very very very rare to have a bad CPU. You are more likely to get struck by lightning standing on the deck of the Titanic holding a winning lottery ticket than you are to have a CPU fail without very extreme overclocking.

 

As for the seasonic PSU, that sounds strange. Can you test it using the paperclip method and see if it is functional at all? (also, did you make sure the PSU switch was on?).

I have had a decent payday come through so I have decided to purchase the CPU upgrade and it should be with me on Sunday, as for the PSU the system would post and get to the bios but shutdown immediately, the H100i fans were not spinning either. I have plugged the RM1000 back in and the system is back to how it was, In Windows I am yet to experience a freeze since upgrading that RAM, however it is just strange that the BIOS freezes in that very particular instance, I have found someone on another forum who had the exact same problem http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?46649-Crosshair-V-Formula-Z-Voltage-Monitor-Freeze  

CPU  Intel i7 5820k Motherboard Asus X99-S  RAM  32GB (8x4) Kingston Hyper X Fury GPU EVGA GTX 1080Ti SC2 iCX Case Fractal Design R4 Windowed Storage 500GB Samsung 850 Evo + 120GB Crucial M500 SSD + 2TB Seagate Barracuda + 1TB Western Digital Blue PSU Corsair RM1000 Display 2x Asus VS239HV Cooling  Noctua NH-D15 Keyboard  Corsair K70 RGB Mouse Logitech G502 Gaming Surface Razer Golitahus Extended Speed

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