Jump to content

Pc not booting after changing bios settings for windows 11

Go to solution Solved by TaffyRaphy,
On 8/21/2022 at 11:23 PM, TaffyRaphy said:

Cpu: i3 12100f

Mobo: Asus ex-h610-v3 d4

Ram: 16gb 3200 Kingston fury beast rgb

Gpu: gigabyte eagle oc rtx 3050

Psu: Corsair vs550

 

My pc was fine until i changed my bios setting, i did a bench test to, it was fine 

Until after i put it on the case and i changed the following 

  • I enabled tpm (maybe)
  • Enabled secured boot
  • I disable csm 
  • Enabled usb legacy

After that no display and my keyboard lights not ligthing up and all the plugs of the usb. I haved noticed the power led is blinking like Fast then slow for like 4 times then repeat. I haved clear cmos like many times removing the battery and using the cmos header

 

I was using my old sdd with windows 10 installed into it, it booted into it when i test benched it, i immediately shut off the psu

 

I really need this pc for my zoom meetings, so i need help now thanks for helping and sorry to my crappy english i hope yall can understand it lol

Just update bios

I was on the store where i bought this motherboard hoping to get a replacement. They just updated bios then works completely fine so yeah..

Cpu: i3 12100f

Mobo: Asus ex-h610-v3 d4

Ram: 16gb 3200 Kingston fury beast rgb

Gpu: gigabyte eagle oc rtx 3050

Psu: Corsair vs550

 

My pc was fine until i changed my bios setting, i did a bench test to, it was fine 

Until after i put it on the case and i changed the following 

  • I enabled tpm (maybe)
  • Enabled secured boot
  • I disable csm 
  • Enabled usb legacy

After that no display and my keyboard lights not ligthing up and all the plugs of the usb. I haved noticed the power led is blinking like Fast then slow for like 4 times then repeat. I haved clear cmos like many times removing the battery and using the cmos header

 

I was using my old sdd with windows 10 installed into it, it booted into it when i test benched it, i immediately shut off the psu

 

I really need this pc for my zoom meetings, so i need help now thanks for helping and sorry to my crappy english i hope yall can understand it lol

Edited by TaffyRaphy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, TaffyRaphy said:

I disable csm

If windows boots with this enabled then you then you need to convert your drive to gpt  first before disabling this setting.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Changing those settings doesn't cause "no display", at worst these settings migt cause not being able to enter Windows or having a BSOD while entering Windows.

 

Black screen (no POST) means some other thing.

 

But first, clear the CMOS by using the clear CMOS button, jumper or removing the CR2032 battery for a few minutes.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, C2dan88 said:

If windows boots with this enabled then you then you need to convert your drive to gpt  first before disabling this setting.

 

 

 

I checked it my boot drive was gpt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, 191x7 said:

Changing those settings doesn't cause "no display", at worst these settings migt cause not being able to enter Windows or having a BSOD while entering Windows.

 

Black screen (no POST) means some other thing.

 

But first, clear the CMOS by using the clear CMOS button, jumper or removing the CR2032 battery for a few minutes.

It doesn't worked

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, TaffyRaphy said:

It doesn't worked

Congrats, you now have to find the part that causes your system not to post.

 

From 1 to 10, with 1 being a newborn baby and 10 being LTT Anthony, how knowledgable are you with computers?

If you're in the 2-5 range, please have someone 7 and up check the system. If you're 5-6 I vcan guide you what to try.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, 191x7 said:

Congrats, you now have to find the part that causes your system not to post.

 

From 1 to 10, with 1 being a newborn baby and 10 being LTT Anthony, how knowledgable are you with computers?

If you're in the 2-5 range, please have someone 7 and up check the system. If you're 5-6 I vcan guide you what to try.

Like a 4 maybe i need someone to guide me

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, TaffyRaphy said:

Like a 4 maybe i need someone to guide me

Disconnect everything not essential to the system. Essentials are the motherboard, CPU, cooler, 1 RAM stick, GPU and PSU.

The disk drives (HDD, SSD, nVME, ...), the case front panel connectors, the USB devices, ADD-in cards and such are not essential for showing a POST (power On Self Test) image. 

Then try turning the computer on by shorting (connecting) the power button pins on the front panel connector of the motherboard, the pins where you connect the power button.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, 191x7 said:

Disconnect everything not essential to the system. Essentials are the motherboard, CPU, cooler, 1 RAM stick, GPU and PSU.

The disk drives (HDD, SSD, nVME, ...), the case front panel connectors, the USB devices, ADD-in cards and such are not essential for showing a POST (power On Self Test) image. 

Then try turning the computer on by shorting (connecting) the power button pins on the front panel connector of the motherboard, the pins where you connect the power button.

Still no post image

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you need this PC ASAP take the sidepanel off, pull out the CMOS baterry from your motherboard. It will reset the settings you changed and you will be able to use it. 

 

After that don't change all BIOS setting all at once, but do it one by one until you stop posting. when you stop posting you'll know what causes it and tell us which setting bricks your pc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, TaffyRaphy said:

Still no post image

Then test the PSU with the paperclip method.

 

7 hours ago, Goowpea said:

If you need this PC ASAP take the sidepanel off, pull out the CMOS baterry from your motherboard. It will reset the settings you changed and you will be able to use it. 

 

After that don't change all BIOS setting all at once, but do it one by one until you stop posting. when you stop posting you'll know what causes it and tell us which setting bricks your pc.

You could have read the comments. He already did that.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 8/21/2022 at 11:23 PM, TaffyRaphy said:

Cpu: i3 12100f

Mobo: Asus ex-h610-v3 d4

Ram: 16gb 3200 Kingston fury beast rgb

Gpu: gigabyte eagle oc rtx 3050

Psu: Corsair vs550

 

My pc was fine until i changed my bios setting, i did a bench test to, it was fine 

Until after i put it on the case and i changed the following 

  • I enabled tpm (maybe)
  • Enabled secured boot
  • I disable csm 
  • Enabled usb legacy

After that no display and my keyboard lights not ligthing up and all the plugs of the usb. I haved noticed the power led is blinking like Fast then slow for like 4 times then repeat. I haved clear cmos like many times removing the battery and using the cmos header

 

I was using my old sdd with windows 10 installed into it, it booted into it when i test benched it, i immediately shut off the psu

 

I really need this pc for my zoom meetings, so i need help now thanks for helping and sorry to my crappy english i hope yall can understand it lol

Just update bios

I was on the store where i bought this motherboard hoping to get a replacement. They just updated bios then works completely fine so yeah..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×