Replacing pc parts

[westly]

I’m trying to replace my psu, right now it’s 650w I was wondering if I can go to 750. I been having problems so I’m replacing one peace at a time. If this doesn’t work I’ll replace my mother board. Would I get the same mother board? I’d appreciate it if Amazon links were sent. Thank you

[An0maly_76]

Your memory speed may be why you're having issues - 2700X supports up to 2933, and you're running 3200. And yes, that little bit can make a difference in some cases. Try turning off DOCP to see if its standard default speed stabilizes, and if it does, you might try underclocking / undervolting the RAM to get the speed down some and see if that helps.

 

ADDED: If you want to upgrade anyway, I would go with a B550 board (preferably something with good VRM cooling for a Zen3 if you like), at least a 3800X or better, and a 750W PSU, because 650W may be okay for that 2080, but transients can put it under some extreme stress, and you really don't want to be within 10% of peak load at any time.

Edited July 2, 2022 by An0maly_76
Revised, more info

[westly]

12 minutes ago, An0maly_76 said:

Your memory speed may be why you're having issues - 2700X supports up to 2933, and you're running 3200. And yes, that little bit can make a difference in some cases. Try turning off DOCP to see if its standard default speed stabilizes, and if it does, you might try underclocking / undervolting the RAM to get the speed down some and see if that helps.

 

ADDED: If you want to upgrade anyway, I would go with a B550 board (preferably something with good VRM cooling for a Zen3 if you like), at least a 3800X or better, and a 750W PSU, because 650W may be okay for that 2080, but transients can put it under some extreme stress, and you really don't want to be within 10% of peak load at any time.

I didn’t even notice that, I have a different thread and no one mentioned that. Yeah my pc will crash with a blue screen or just completely turn off. That was the error code. Not trying to continue the thread here. I think that breaks the rules. What ram should I get then? Would that help? 

[An0maly_76]

First I would try disabling DOCP, as most 3200 defaults to 2666 anyway. If it stabilizes with the DOCP disabled, I'd just leave it, or maybe try a slight undervolt / underclock to get it to 2933. That 3200 should work well with most any newer Ryzen, but I would highly recommend a B550 board if you do so.

Some A320s got funny about PCIe support after certain updates, and I personally don't think a new B450 is worth it in this day and age. B550s aren't that much more expensive, and they have far more support, although some still require a BIOS update for Zen3. My advice, if you go Zen 3, skip the 5600X, the PBO doesn't help much on that one. Either get the 5600 if you're on a budget, or go for the 5800X or better if you want the gusto.

Edited July 2, 2022 by An0maly_76
Revised, more info

[RONOTHAN##]

1 minute ago, westly said:

I didn’t even notice that, I have a different thread and no one mentioned that. Yeah my pc will crash with a blue screen or just completely turn off. That was the error code. Not trying to continue the thread here. I think that breaks the rules. What ram should I get then? Would that help? 

That is usually a memory error, a driver error, or the OS is just bad. I'd do a Windows reinstall first before swapping anything, that should theoretically fix stuff. If it doesn't, then start messing with memory speed.

[An0maly_76]

5 minutes ago, RONOTHAN## said:

That is usually a memory error, a driver error, or the OS is just bad. I'd do a Windows reinstall first before swapping anything, that should theoretically fix stuff. If it doesn't, then start messing with memory speed.

What they said, in reverse. I personally would disable DOCP first. It's easy and only takes a few minutes. If a RAM swap becomes necessary, I recommend Crucial Ballistix, or alternately, Samsung B-die. But test it with one stick at a time first and see if you can isolate it to one stick or the other.

Edited July 2, 2022 by An0maly_76
Revised, more info

[westly]

3 minutes ago, RONOTHAN## said:

That is usually a memory error, a driver error, or the OS is just bad. I'd do a Windows reinstall first before swapping anything, that should theoretically fix stuff. If it doesn't, then start messing with memory speed.

What’s a driver error? Like my sad? I tested my ram with mem8. They both work still. And what’s os? 

[westly]

3 minutes ago, An0maly_76 said:

What they said, in reverse. I personally would disable DOCP first. It's easy and only takes a few minutes.

Where is docp? 

[An0maly_76]

Drivers are software that tell your machine how to communicate with and control its components. Sometimes a driver can corrupt or misfire, or just plain has bad code in it. And for that, you can try updates or rolling back to earlier versions, Windows allows both. But, I would still confirm whether the memory speed is the problem.

[An0maly_76]

1 minute ago, westly said:

Where is docp? 

DOCP is the RAM overclock option in your BIOS. You'll need to reboot and press F2 or DEL (whichever the machine tells you) to get into BIOS. From there, you'll need to look through your options to find DOCP or Memory OC / Overclock. It's also referred to as XMP, but that's usually an Intel thing.

[RONOTHAN##]

4 minutes ago, An0maly_76 said:

What they said, in reverse. I personally would disable DOCP first. It's easy and only takes a few minutes.

The 2700X is usually good enough to run 3200MHz though. The memory controller on it is better enough than the 1st gen chips, and out of the 5 different Ryzen 2000 series chips I've used (long story) I've yet to see one that can't do 3200MHz on a good board and decent kit of memory which that is. The times I've seen it not be able to do 3200MHz, it won't boot. If it boots at XMP on 1st/2nd gen Ryzen, it's stable, that's the reason why I wouldn't really bother with it first. 

 

2 minutes ago, westly said:

What’s a driver error? Like my sad? I tested my ram with mem8. They both work still. And what’s os? 

A driver is the piece of code that is a translation layer between the hardware and the operating system (Windows). There are times when the driver gets corrupted or just doesn't install correctly, and when that happens it can cause these types of issues. The easiest way to eliminate them as a problem is to reinstall Windows and call it a day. 

 

RAM stress tests can only definitively determine that the RAM is bad, it can't guarantee that it's good. If it passes a RAM stress test I would look to other issues, but if you eliminate everything else I would think it's likely just bad RAM. 

 

OS is operating system. In your case Windows.

[westly]

1 minute ago, An0maly_76 said:

Drivers are software that tell your machine how to communicate with and control its components. Sometimes a driver can corrupt or misfire, or just plain has bad code in it. And for that, you can try updates or rolling back to earlier versions, Windows allows both. But, I would still confirm whether the memory speed is the problem.

 I’d appreciate it if you took a look here. There was some good information said. Yeah I did the sfc /scan now. And I had a corruption. Idk this pc has so many problems or more so so many areas. The memory issue would cause my pc to turn off? And crash? Freeze? 

[westly]

3 minutes ago, RONOTHAN## said:

The 2700X is usually good enough to run 3200MHz though. The memory controller on it is better enough than the 1st gen chips, and out of the 5 different Ryzen 2000 series chips I've used (long story) I've yet to see one that can't do 3200MHz on a good board and decent kit of memory which that is. The times I've seen it not be able to do 3200MHz, it won't boot. If it boots at XMP on 1st/2nd gen Ryzen, it's stable, that's the reason why I wouldn't really bother with it first. 

 

A driver is the piece of code that is a translation layer between the hardware and the operating system (Windows). There are times when the driver gets corrupted or just doesn't install correctly, and when that happens it can cause these types of issues. The easiest way to eliminate them as a problem is to reinstall Windows and call it a day. 

 

RAM stress tests can only definitively determine that the RAM is bad, it can't guarantee that it's good. If it passes a RAM stress test I would look to other issues, but if you eliminate everything else I would think it's likely just bad RAM. 

 

OS is operating system. In your case Windows.

Yeah last time I reinstalled windows I have a antivirus issue. I couldn’t play steam games or anything then I reinstalled it and I couldnt still. I did the sfc/scannow and it was corrupted. Or something was so I did the image fix thing and it seemed to work. Every time I reinstall windows I feel like it gets corrupted some how and idk why. 

[An0maly_76]

It's certainly starting to sound like a memory issue. I have seen a pattern of folks having issues using Corsair RAM with Ryzens, and I know from experience that Crucial Ballistix are some of the most stable Ryzen-friendly RAM out there. Some might recommend Samsung B-die as well. I haven't seen this before with Patriot, but Ryzens are known to be fussy about RAM.

Edited July 2, 2022 by An0maly_76
Revised, more info

[westly]

5 minutes ago, An0maly_76 said:

It's certainly starting to sound like a memory issue. I have seen a pattern of folks having issues using Corsair RAM with Ryzens, and I know from experience that Crucial Ballistix are some of the most stable Ryzen-friendly RAM out there. Some might recommend Samsung B-die as well. I haven't seen this before with Patriot, but Ryzens are known to be fussy about RAM.

A memory issue with ram or my cpu? Yeah it’s something with memory I feel like but idk why with the stress test it works. But then it might be my mother board. Because why is only one stick of ram showing? When I get home I’ll try everything I can. 

[An0maly_76]

2 minutes ago, westly said:

A memory issue with ram or my cpu? Yeah it’s something with memory I feel like but idk why with the stress test it works. But then it might be my mother board. Because why is only one stick of ram showing? When I get home I’ll try everything I can. 

Whoa. The machine is only seeing one stick of RAM? That's a major red flag there. Assuming you have the sticks in the correct slots, one of those sticks is likely bad, and is likely your whole problem.

[westly]

6 minutes ago, An0maly_76 said:

Whoa. The machine is only seeing one stick of RAM? That's a major red flag there. Assuming you have the sticks in the correct slots, one of those sticks is likely bad, and is likely your whole problem.

Yeah lol, it’s happens twice I though it was a windows thing but maybe not. What ram sticks should I get? Let’s just hope that’s the problem. Honestly I’ll replace the psu and ram. I’ve been wanting a 750w one. Can you send me Amazon links please. Today it showed one then my pc crashed a couple times the it showed the full 16 again. That picture was this morning only saying 8 was usable out of the 16

[An0maly_76]

16 minutes ago, westly said:

Yeah lol, it’s happens twice I though it was a windows thing but maybe not. What ram sticks should I get? Let’s just hope that’s the problem. Honestly I’ll replace the psu and ram. I’ve been wanting a 750w one. Can you send me Amazon links please. 

 

@westly

 

These are 2x8 DDR4-2666 Ballistix. Black are out of stock, red and white are nip and tuck around $87-$90.

 

2x8 DR4-3200 is available in the same colors, $81 / $88 / $85, black / white / red, respectively.

 

So it depends on what you want to do. These should be the same 3200s I got, which defaulted to 2666 with DOCP off, but just to be safe, you might want to stick with the standard 2666.

Edited July 2, 2022 by An0maly_76
Revised, more info

[An0maly_76]

@westly

As far as a PSU, for 750W, I think you'd be hard pressed to beat this deal... Corsair RM750 80+Gold modular on sale for $110, roughly 15% off. There's cheaper out there, but not in 80+Gold, which are more efficient and reliable. By way of comparison, I have the RM850x, which I paid $138 for four months ago, also on sale. Just be sure that it will fit your case. Depth (L) is key.

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093NL61FB

Edited July 2, 2022 by An0maly_76
Revised, more info

[westly]

34 minutes ago, An0maly_76 said:

 

@westly

 

These are 2x8 DDR4-2666 Ballistix. Black are out of stock, red and white are nip and tuck around $87-$90.

 

2x8 DR4-3200 is available in the same colors, $81 / $88 / $85, black / white / red, respectively.

 

So it depends on what you want to do. These should be the same 3200s I got, which defaulted to 2666 with DOCP off, but just to be safe, you might want to stick with the standard 2666.

This is my case

[Somerandomtechyboi]

Ram stress test wise i suggest tm5, hci memtest, or other alternatives such as p95 large ffts

 

1 hour ago, An0maly_76 said:

I recommend Crucial Ballistix, or alternately, Samsung B-die

Ok this is just stupid, sure you are wasting performance potential with both but atleast ballistix is somewhat cheap and not all setups are capable of 4600+ c18/17 (1.6v+), b die is stupid expensive with good stuff like 16gb viper 4400 c19 being as expensive as a 32gb kit

 

B die is strictly for oc only, you run it w/o oc its gonna perform like trash compared to its price, 3200 c14 is not gonna be much diff vs 3200 c16 cause bandwidth > latency though tight timing b die is still pretty good (ex 3800 c13 ~1.7v). This time gatekeeping is warranted just to save op from wasting money on stupid expensive b die kits, ballistix is expensive and mostly not worth it w/o oc but atleast its not stupid expensive to the point that its oc only, and i havent mentioned that b die is super heavy on the imc so have fun having a dud of a kit because garbage <zen2 imc, actually ballistix (rev e) is very light on the imc so may be worth it here even w/o oc cause less load on the imc = more stable so this time ballistix actually is more stable, if were talking zen2 and up then no diff at all stability wise

 

 

Btw a cheaper alternative to ballistix would be crucial bare pcb 2666 with rev e bins from d9vpp to c9bjz (d9wfl is 3200 bin), they clock the same (4600+ cl18) but theyre much cheaper at ~23$ a stick on ebay, basically a halo ram because its dirt cheap stupid high clocking and light on the imc rev e. Also you should be able to do 3600 c16 16-18-18 1.35-1.4v lazy oc so not much effort is needed to get these set up, the main drawback is worse pcb cause generic ram though that usually doesnt matter that much and wont result in any noticable losses in speed, theres also aesthetic drawback cause green bare pcb but real men prefer price/performance over aesthetics

[Beerzerker]

30 minutes ago, An0maly_76 said:

@westly

As far as a PSU, for 750W, I think you'd be hard pressed to beat this deal... Corsair RM750 80+Gold modular on sale for $110, roughly 15% off. There's cheaper out there, but not in 80+Gold, which are more efficient and reliable. By way of comparison, I have the RM850x, which I paid $138 for four months ago, also on sale. Just be sure that it will fit your case. Depth (L) is key.

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093NL61FB

I dunno man - We all know Corsair PSU's have been hit and miss over the past year or so, I advise the OP to do a little digging around BEFORE ordering one of these to make sure this model doesn't have a history of problems with it.
If not then it's probrably a good buy.

However if it does, I'd say pass on it and go for something like a SeaSonic unit, they have a good history across the majority of their lineup so chances are one of those will be good, even if it's a little pricey to get.

I'll will add any manufacturer can make a dud or a hero of a PSU.

[An0maly_76]

@westly

NZXT's recommended 750 for this case is 150Lx150Wx86H (mm).

 

The PSU I recommended is 160Lx150Wx86H (mm). So you should probably measure from the back wall where the PSU mounts to about two to three inches from running out of room to get your max PSU length (I don't see it listed anywhere). It probably will fit, most of the time 10mm is not that big of a difference, just makes it a bit tight. But I would measure to be sure.

[An0maly_76]

2 minutes ago, Beerzerker said:

I dunno man - We all know Corsair PSU's have been hit and miss over the past year or so, I advise the OP to do a little digging around BEFORE ordering one of these to make sure this model doesn't have a history of problems with it.
If not then it's probrably a good buy.

However if it does, I'd say pass on it and go for something like a SeaSonic unit, they have a good history across the majority of their lineup so chances are one of those will be good, even if it's a little pricey to get.

I just know the one I have has been doing fine. I have a random no video on boot that I've narrowed down to cable or HDMI port.

[An0maly_76]

@Somerandomtechyboi

 

Read between the lines. While OC isn't OP's main aim, in my experience, 3200 has had to be OC'd from a stock speed of 2666 to reach 3200, which seems to be the case in this scenario.