Overheating cpu

[E.K]

Hi guys so recently I've bought a 825 dollar pc off facebook market place and to be fair 2nd hand its not that bad, but unfortunately it has ran into one problem. Overheating CPU. So it started when I used the pc to download things like games and such and the cpu was sometimes reach over 70c+ and maybe in the 80 just by downloading. After downloading games I tried to play but I cant because my cpu is getting very hot and a red light on my 'cpu led' is blinking and eventually turned on by just loading into actual gameplay such as fortnite. I am kinda worried because I'm scared to break my cpu by overheating and the 825 money spent on this pc goes to waste. Im not sure if the Aio is gunked or the aio pump doesn't work but either way I kinda needed a new aio anyways, oh and I held my aio pump pipes to see if it hot just being on idle and it was pretty warm after being just turned on for like 30-20 seconds. Currently I'm using a h100i GTX under its a i5 7600k. Oh and i dont know if this is part of the overheating problem but when I also start up my pc a red light is turned on for like 2 seconds.

[E.K]

Yes so It came with a H100i GTX aio and I'm rocking a asus prime z270-a motherboard as well and one of the pipes was the one getting hot just by idling. No I have not reapplied thermal paste because I don't have any and I don't know what to do. Do you wanna see my pc?

[E.K]

5 hours ago, Caroline said:

You won't burn the CPU with overheating, that's why protections like throttling or self shutoff exist.

 

Care to detail the specs? 

That AIO is somewhat old, could be failing.

Just one? both? if the radiator is clogged then a single tube will be hot, if the pump is clogged or not working then both will.

 

Don't do this. Get an air cooler instead, it's a 7600k so any midrange single tower style cooler will be enough for it.

Have you reapplied thermal paste?

 

The red light usually indicates overheating or throttling depending on the motherboard.

Yeah but the previous owner said it was overclocked and since overclocking require much more power aio cooling is the best option to cool it down. Last time I checked the cpu was at 3.8ghz.

 

[E.K]

55 minutes ago, Caroline said:

Not really, a 240mm AIO is on par with a midrange air cooler at best. Liquid cooling might be better as a technology but only when it comes to a custom loop.

And if the previous owner's overclocking required "much more power" then he was doing it wrong, pumping more voltage into the cores and SA and setting the multiplier to 50x isn't overclocking but shitclocking lol, better revert your BIOS back to defaults to get rid of anything like that if you haven't done it yet.

 

If one of the tubes gets *too* hot and the other remains cold it means the liquid isn't moving around, could be a clog or a failing pump, either way the problem isn't user serviceable. How old is this PC? Average life expectancy of an AIO is about 3 years.

 

By the way... what's your case? sometimes problems like this turn out to be caused by the lack of a fresh air intake.

In order to reapply paste you'll have to remove the cooling block, rub both the plate and CPU with a cloth until no traces of the old paste are left then apply a pea sized amount of new paste over the CPU and fasten the block again.

Yeah so the main parts of the pc itself is a couple years old, so I knew that the aio isn't going to be in my system for a long time. I have a MSI MPG Gungir 111r Case. I'll go on YouTube to research on how to revert my bios. Thanks for the steps on how to clean my CPU. The previous owner described the parts of the pc was moved from an old case to the new msi case in which I included in this message.

[E.K]

4 hours ago, Caroline said:

Not really, a 240mm AIO is on par with a midrange air cooler at best. Liquid cooling might be better as a technology but only when it comes to a custom loop.

And if the previous owner's overclocking required "much more power" then he was doing it wrong, pumping more voltage into the cores and SA and setting the multiplier to 50x isn't overclocking but shitclocking lol, better revert your BIOS back to defaults to get rid of anything like that if you haven't done it yet.

 

If one of the tubes gets *too* hot and the other remains cold it means the liquid isn't moving around, could be a clog or a failing pump, either way the problem isn't user serviceable. How old is this PC? Average life expectancy of an AIO is about 3 years.

 

By the way... what's your case? sometimes problems like this turn out to be caused by the lack of a fresh air intake.

In order to reapply paste you'll have to remove the cooling block, rub both the plate and CPU with a cloth until no traces of the old paste are left then apply a pea sized amount of new paste over the CPU and fasten the block again.

Yeah tbh I don't mind changing to air cooler but aio is more efficient though for me. I guess it just has to be a decent air cooler.

[E.K]

On 2/13/2022 at 11:36 AM, Caroline said:

Not really, a 240mm AIO is on par with a midrange air cooler at best. Liquid cooling might be better as a technology but only when it comes to a custom loop.

And if the previous owner's overclocking required "much more power" then he was doing it wrong, pumping more voltage into the cores and SA and setting the multiplier to 50x isn't overclocking but shitclocking lol, better revert your BIOS back to defaults to get rid of anything like that if you haven't done it yet.

 

If one of the tubes gets *too* hot and the other remains cold it means the liquid isn't moving around, could be a clog or a failing pump, either way the problem isn't user serviceable. How old is this PC? Average life expectancy of an AIO is about 3 years.

 

By the way... what's your case? sometimes problems like this turn out to be caused by the lack of a fresh air intake.

In order to reapply paste you'll have to remove the cooling block, rub both the plate and CPU with a cloth until no traces of the old paste are left then apply a pea sized amount of new paste over the CPU and fasten the block again.

So what should I do?

 

[E.K]

11 hours ago, Caroline said:

Get a replacement air cooler and install it? Or have someone else do it, for a fee.

 

Here's a good contender

https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-freezer-34-esports-acfre00057a/p/N82E16835186231

 

If you're feeling fancy

https://www.newegg.com/noctua-nh-u9s/p/N82E16835608067

 

El Cheapo way

https://www.newegg.com/p/13C-0013-00079

 

Those already come with preapplied thermal paste that's good enough if you're not overclocking. Notice that CPU runs hot so don't expect ice cold temps from it, unless the previous owner has delidded it (basically replaced thermal paste between the chip itself and its cover -also called IHS-) do expect temp spikes when playing games.

Thanks mate. as long as that is doing its job and properly cooling the component Im happy.

[E.K]

11 hours ago, Caroline said:

Get a replacement air cooler and install it? Or have someone else do it, for a fee.

 

Here's a good contender

https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-freezer-34-esports-acfre00057a/p/N82E16835186231

 

If you're feeling fancy

https://www.newegg.com/noctua-nh-u9s/p/N82E16835608067

 

El Cheapo way

https://www.newegg.com/p/13C-0013-00079

 

Those already come with preapplied thermal paste that's good enough if you're not overclocking. Notice that CPU runs hot so don't expect ice cold temps from it, unless the previous owner has delidded it (basically replaced thermal paste between the chip itself and its cover -also called IHS-) do expect temp spikes when playing games.

Sorry mate but do you have any other suggestions coolers? Possibly black designed? 

[Jeppes]

Wow. Over 800$ for a pc with 7600K and a dead cooler. I would be sending the seller dog shit for years if he wont take it back.

[E.K]

12 hours ago, Jeppes said:

Wow. Over 800$ for a pc with 7600K and a dead cooler. I would be sending the seller dog shit for years if he wont take it back.

Wym

[E.K]

7 hours ago, Caroline said:

The china cooler is black, and the hyper 212 comes in black iirc, it's the same as the regular 212 but costs like $20 more just because of the paint, oh and did you know paint reduces cooling performance? it's not recommended to coat a heatsink because it'll retain more heat for longer periods of time, that's why most of them are bare metal.

Scythe FUMA II has a black top but it's already a mid-high end cooler, so a tad expensive. You have some noctuas as well, look up "noctua chromax black" and it'll show all of the models from the low profile ones to the huge D15

I've done some research,hows cooler master coolers? specifically Cooler Master MasterAir MA620P CPU Air Cooler? Or a Cooler Master Hyper 212 RGB Black Edition R2 

[E.K]

13 hours ago, Caroline said:

The china cooler is black, and the hyper 212 comes in black iirc, it's the same as the regular 212 but costs like $20 more just because of the paint, oh and did you know paint reduces cooling performance? it's not recommended to coat a heatsink because it'll retain more heat for longer periods of time, that's why most of them are bare metal.

Scythe FUMA II has a black top but it's already a mid-high end cooler, so a tad expensive. You have some noctuas as well, look up "noctua chromax black" and it'll show all of the models from the low profile ones to the huge D15

What about be quiet coolers??

[E.K]

2 hours ago, Caroline said:

The MA620P is fine, it's not dirt tier but also dual tower so it won't let you down under load if you're not overclocking. The Hyper 212 is the one to get if you're on a tight budget, if your case has good airflow (intake and exhaust fans) it's gonna be fine, expect temps in the 70C range though.

Higher quality. I'm using one and it's great, fans are super quiet you wouldn't even know the PC is on. It's the Dark Rock Pro 4 though so a high-ish end model, would be overkill for your CPU. Their fans are pretty decent though.

Yeah I've got 4 fans infront of the case and 1 exhaust fan so I think That should be good for the hyper 212. But I've seen be quiet is such a good brand and I was thinking of getting that understanding its overkill. I've researched the 2 and they're great brands but I'll have a look more tonight and compare the coolers. Thanks for your time and info mate.

[E.K]

1 hour ago, Caroline said:

Try undervolting if you're looking to lower your temps even more with the Hyper 212 or cooler you choose.

 

Simply search "7600K undervolt" and you'll have plenty of videos and posts to use as reference. Most will work fine in the 1.12-1.16V range, auto voltage is *always* higher than it should and increases temps.

Never heard that before, does it affect performance?

[E.K]

1 hour ago, Caroline said:

Try undervolting if you're looking to lower your temps even more with the Hyper 212 or cooler you choose.

 

Simply search "7600K undervolt" and you'll have plenty of videos and posts to use as reference. Most will work fine in the 1.12-1.16V range, auto voltage is *always* higher than it should and increases temps.

I mean I don't mind doing undervolting but I dont want something to anything to the cpu if my cooler is not going to do its job

[E.K]

1 hour ago, Caroline said:

Nope, it's done to counter the mobo manufacturers' overcompensation.

It'll run fine without undervolting but it's a tweaking done to further improve temps, why stay in 70C under load when you can drop it to 60C? Undervolting was an useful way to stop temps spikes in 7th and 8th gen Intel chips, so was delidding but that's the hardware approach.

Alright. Are the steps pretty annoying or they're simple?

[E.K]

6 hours ago, Caroline said:

The MA620P is fine, it's not dirt tier but also dual tower so it won't let you down under load if you're not overclocking. The Hyper 212 is the one to get if you're on a tight budget, if your case has good airflow (intake and exhaust fans) it's gonna be fine, expect temps in the 70C range though.

Higher quality. I'm using one and it's great, fans are super quiet you wouldn't even know the PC is on. It's the Dark Rock Pro 4 though so a high-ish end model, would be overkill for your CPU. Their fans are pretty decent though.

Ok so Finalization what should I get??

[E.K]

6 minutes ago, Caroline said:

Can be annoying if its your first time but do some testing with all the default BIOS settings and the new cooler installed.

Between the MA620P and Hyper 212? the MA620P.

I've got another cpu cooler option. What about the A500 Corsair dual cooler?

[E.K]

On 2/13/2022 at 4:58 AM, Caroline said:

You won't burn the CPU with overheating, that's why protections like throttling or self shutoff exist.

 

Care to detail the specs? 

That AIO is somewhat old, could be failing.

Just one? both? if the radiator is clogged then a single tube will be hot, if the pump is clogged or not working then both will.

 

Don't do this. Get an air cooler instead, it's a 7600k so any midrange single tower style cooler will be enough for it.

Have you reapplied thermal paste?

 

The red light usually indicates overheating or throttling depending on the motherboard.

Sorry mate but Im unsure now because I just started up my pc to see if it still works and for idling Its between  38c- max is 83c mostly around 38-39 but as well my cpu load is randomly reaching like 70% thats weird. But with my icue app and task manager one of my pipes is getting semi warm not too hot for worries. Just seeing and my base speed is 3.79 Ghz but it says the speed its going right now is 4.78ghz?? Now its sitting around the 57c zone now without doing anything with only 2 apps running. Now my cpu speeds gone down to like 1.55ghz?? And temperature is gone down to 40c area?? And now my cpu speed is just chilling in the 1.5+ ghz zone?? Is my cpu working itself too hard just being on idle??? I still get that my cpu is overheating whilst playing games, not even playing games just even loading onto a match. Is there something wrong with my cpu expect heating?? Oh and before I said that I was getting hot on idle before like around 100c but I think its just I was running mulitple things at once but still I was reaching like around the 80c once.

[E.K]

17 minutes ago, E.K said:

Sorry mate but Im unsure now because I just started up my pc to see if it still works and for idling Its between  38c- max is 83c mostly around 38-39 but as well my cpu load is randomly reaching like 70% thats weird. But with my icue app and task manager one of my pipes is getting semi warm not too hot for worries. Just seeing and my base speed is 3.79 Ghz but it says the speed its going right now is 4.78ghz?? Now its sitting around the 57c zone now without doing anything with only 2 apps running. Now my cpu speeds gone down to like 1.55ghz?? And temperature is gone down to 40c area?? And now my cpu speed is just chilling in the 1.5+ ghz zone?? Is my cpu working itself too hard just being on idle??? I still get that my cpu is overheating whilst playing games, not even playing games just even loading onto a match. Is there something wrong with my cpu expect heating?? Oh and before I said that I was getting hot on idle before like around 100c but I think its just I was running mulitple things at once but still I was reaching like around the 80c once.

Does that mean that my cpu is overclocked????

[E.K]

7 hours ago, Caroline said:

UH, 4.8GHz is definitely not turbo clock so I'd say yep it's overclocked, but depends on where you're getting that speed, if it's iBug software it could pretty much be another bug, rule of thumb is only trust whatever frequency the BIOS setup says, or download the hwinfo64 software instead, that's pretty accurate.

The fluctuating CPU speed is normal as the Windows power plan can make it drop clocks and voltage to enter an idle power saving mode. 

If you've reset your BIOS settings make sure anything in the names of "auto OC", "magic OC", "speed enhancement" or whatever your mobo manufacturer calls it is disabled so it doesn't increase the frequency.

Only XMP for the memory should be enabled, if available.
Jeez so the previous owner wasn't lying. What should I do? 

 

Poor performance considering the price, it's covered in plastic. Plastic acts as an insulator, it traps heat, that's bad when it comes to computers, the same applies for cases, the less plastic the better. It's cheaper to manufacture and work than metal (same goes for glass, it's all done to cut costs) but gives you worse temps in exchange.
Alright.

Jeez so the previous owner wasn't lying. What should I do? 


Alright I guess no go on A500

[E.K]

2 minutes ago, Caroline said:

Reset your BIOS? and decide on a cooler ^^

Yeah I def don't know how to do that ;/

[E.K]

21 hours ago, Caroline said:

Reset your BIOS? and decide on a cooler ^^

So I've went on to BIOS and clicked on default settings in which setted my bios back to default but when I did and saved and exited this screen came on and it say cpu fan error and I searched on a vid on how to fix it and so I did which I only had to ignore the warning but is this the right steps?? Oh and also Im back on my pc and I see that my highest speed when I got on was like 4.2ghz not 4.78ghz so is that better??

[E.K]

1 hour ago, Caroline said:

From the speed I can tell the reset was successful, 4.2 is normal turbo speed. All overclocks gone.

About the CPU fan error, make sure the cable coming from the CPU block (pump) goes into the CPU_FAN header of your motherboard, it should be a sole wire in a 3-pin plastic connector.

 

Decided on a cooler yet? The MA620P is pretty good for your build.

Yeah but the thing is though my internet connection is gone and I can't retry to get back in but thats another problem I do later. Yeah so my speed now is below the high 4.78ghz and now is sitting around below 4.2ghz. The pump connector is in the 'aio pump' header but I don't see anything coming from my cpu_fan or cpu_opt, either way I've gotta watch a video on how to remove the aio but I think I can leave the back bracket because its a lga1151 already in there and I think all I need to do is just mount the new cpu cooler and apply thermal paste.
Thing is though my board has a 4 pin connector not a 3 but I understand that if you put a 3 pin connector in  4 pin It should work fine so that new info I figured out. MA620P Is one of my top choice right now but I've got the option of a be quiet dark pro 4. I've heard its pretty large and heavy but it does the job. I've also gotta find out the space between the cooler and my ram because my ram might be in the way. I'll keep doing some research on the cooler but Im glad now that I guess my cpu is back to stock and I hope it doesn't work itself too hard. 

[E.K]

13 hours ago, Caroline said:

From the speed I can tell the reset was successful, 4.2 is normal turbo speed. All overclocks gone.

About the CPU fan error, make sure the cable coming from the CPU block (pump) goes into the CPU_FAN header of your motherboard, it should be a sole wire in a 3-pin plastic connector.

 

Decided on a cooler yet? The MA620P is pretty good for your build.

I'll prolly watch some sort of stress test videos about each of the coolers and see what their proper ability's are.