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Hi people, I recently had to change the water coolant, I decided it was a good time to replace the thermal paste of the CPU and that of the GPU. I chose to replace the old MX2 with a Thermal GrizzlyKryonaut, I also replaced the GPU thermal pads with a Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 8 2mm. The replacement was exhausting but in the end I managed to change everything and the system is already working. There are two questions for me - when I plug in the cable of the  pump, it stops working. I tried to plug it directly to the motherboard. I tried molex splitter but without success. The pump works without connecting the cable but it seems quite slow.
The accompanying problem is the temperature. Before I changed anything on the system, the temperature varied around 72-75C on the CPU and 45-48C on the GPU on stress test for 20 minutes, as cpu is overclocked to 4.9GHz at 1.28V. The Gpu runs at 1.975Mhz core and 5858Mhz memory at 1050Mv. Now at the same configuration the temperature of the CPU is runing at 81-83C and 48-51C of the GPU. Before changing the fluid, the pump ran faster without connecting it to the motherboard or molex splitter.

The tests were performed on an aida64 stress test for 20 minutes. Ambient temperature is similar when performing the tests.
Im asking for advice is the rig running ok or do i have to tweak something like replacing the CPU thermal paste (first time doing the spread all over the cpu method).
PC settup
Aorus Z390 PRO
4x8GB Gskill TridentZ@3200mhz
MSI Gtx 1080ti Gaming (not X)@1975mhz/1050mV
Intel I5 8600K@4.9Ghz/1.28V
PSU 1200W FPS

Loop setup
EKWB 360MM Radiator
X3 Reservoir with D5 Pump
6xCorsair SP120MM Fans@1300RPM

IMG_20200817_154357[1].jpg

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5 minutes ago, ottawa said:

Im asking for advice is the rig running ok or do i have to tweak something like replacing the CPU thermal paste

Does not sound like a problem. You could remount and re-paste if it helps you feel better but don't think its needed.

I will recommend an NHu12s (or an NHd15 (maybe)) for your PC build. Quote or @ me @Prodigy_Smit for me to see your replies.

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So I may be wrong here but I remember running into similar with my loop, the connector for the pump to the board is purely for pwm control. So with it connected your bios is controlling the pump speed, you'd want to check in there if you felt like you needed to ramp up the power for it a bit more. You can mess around with the D5's a bit more than others and they're happy to run at lower power as they have a fair bit more operating room to work within.

As for the temps, they do depend on your ambient room temp as well. If you started earlier in the day and the room has warmed up, your temps go up as well. One thing to note though, how long was it prior to this lot of maintenance? If you were using an opaque fluid like you are now you may have experienced a bit of fall out which has gunked up your blocks a bit. Typically it's fine for a few fluid changes, but over time and especially with opaque fluids you're going to run into some build up. You can tear down the blocks and give them an overhaul but I'd suggest monitoring temps for a couple of days just in case. Often after a change you'll get a few air bubbles that clear over time and may help reduce temps when settled. 

 

All in all though, I wouldn't panic too much. If it ain't leakin, you're golden :)

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Fluid seems solid with a tiny bit of air bubbles going in the radiator when booting up. Problem is that now i played some World of Warcraft Classic and GPU heats up to 55-57C and game crashes thats on 1950mhz core on 1047mV. So something is wrong for sure.

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