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Any 3d printer enthusiats got an opinion. I can't make heads or tails of reviews 

 

I'm looking at the Ender 3 or the pro persion, there seems little differences. I'm just looking to print in abs solid infill for automative parts mostly. 

 

Or is there something the same price I've missed. 

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1 minute ago, James Evens said:

Ender 3 won't cut it without modification. 

ABS requires a temperature controlled enclosure.

Then what sort of mods? if it's just an acrylic box thats pretty simple to make, what should I be looking at for 200-250mm square print size. 

Silent build - You know your pc is too loud when the deaf complain. Windows 98 gaming build, smells like beige

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12 minutes ago, it_dont_work said:

Then what sort of mods? if it's just an acrylic box thats pretty simple to make, what should I be looking at for 200-250mm square print size. 

You can get a all metal hot end and build and enclosure given that it can warm up and hold it's print temperature. It would really be better to get enclosed printer with a glass or metal sheet bed as the magnetic peel off beds do start degrading once you get them hot enough usually past 80C. 

 

What would be the budget you have available that will give us an idea what route would be best to take. 

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2 minutes ago, W-L said:

You can get a all metal hot end and build and enclosure given that it can warm up and hold it's print temperature. It would really be better to get enclosed printer with a glass or metal sheet bed as the magnetic peel off beds do start degrading once you get them hot enough usually past 80C. 

 

What would be the budget you have available that will give us an idea what route would be best to take. 

about $400aud, the ender 3 with a glass bed to my door is about $350aud, building an enclosure with some thermal control is pretty simple and probably zero cost knowing the crap pile im my workshop.  

Silent build - You know your pc is too loud when the deaf complain. Windows 98 gaming build, smells like beige

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5 minutes ago, it_dont_work said:

about $400aud, the ender 3 with a glass bed to my door is about $350aud, building an enclosure with some thermal control is pretty simple and probably zero cost knowing the crap pile im my workshop.  

If you don't mind some DIY work that is doable for that cost, main thing is good temp control and ideally at that point moving the control boards externally to not cook them inside the enclosure as you are printing. 

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7 minutes ago, James Evens said:

If you are fine with acrylic:

- fan

- temperature sensor

- controller. either new mainboard or external controller

- (heater probably not needed but speeds up heat up time)

 

Cheaper for sure. More expensive options can handle the 90-100°C ABS takes.

 

5 minutes ago, W-L said:

If you don't mind some DIY work that is doable for that cost, main thing is good temp control and ideally at that point moving the control boards externally to not cook them inside the enclosure as you are printing. 

 

I'm more worried about layer adhesion than looks, PLA doesn't need much temp control does it? Haven't done much 3d printing, I'm more a chunk of metal in the mill and lathe kinda bloke. 

Silent build - You know your pc is too loud when the deaf complain. Windows 98 gaming build, smells like beige

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46 minutes ago, it_dont_work said:

 

 

I'm more worried about layer adhesion than looks, PLA doesn't need much temp control does it? Haven't done much 3d printing, I'm more a chunk of metal in the mill and lathe kinda bloke. 

PLA or even PETG doesn't suffer from the warping effect you see on ABS, if you want another option similar to ABS the material ASA is a good alternative, little less finicky than ABS.

 

Personally I stick with PETG and PLA for my prints but ABS I've done on an Ender 3 pro with an enclosure and just relying on the bed to warm the surroundings. Layer adhesion if heated up to the correct melt temp for extrusion won't be an issue it's the cooling and shrinkage from the material contracting that tends to pull apart layers and warp the ends. 

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2 hours ago, W-L said:

PLA or even PETG doesn't suffer from the warping effect you see on ABS, if you want another option similar to ABS the material ASA is a good alternative, little less finicky than ABS.

 

3 hours ago, James Evens said:

ABS warps.

PLA is much simpler. For functional printing start with PETG. 

No worries, petg or asa might be easier to try. I just went for the Ender 3x with the tempered glass bed for just under $350 aud. 

 

Should be fun learning something new.

 

 

Silent build - You know your pc is too loud when the deaf complain. Windows 98 gaming build, smells like beige

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On 6/7/2020 at 11:01 PM, it_dont_work said:

I just went for the Ender 3x

I would suggest checking out this article about Ender 3 upgrades

 

I've had my Ender 3 (non-Pro) for just shy of a year and would suggest these upgrades (out of the box):
- All-metal feeder
- uxcell Springs
- Firmware upgrade (Marlin 1.1.9 if not already installed; requires Arduino)
    > enables thermal runaway protection
    > allows for manual mesh bed leveling
- Setup OctoPrint (most use a RPi3, I used an old Win10 laptop)
- Upgrade Bowden tube to Capricorn PTFE tube
- Printing various cable clips and other printer upgrades (see article)
- I went with a Hero Me gen3 fan duct upgrade since additional hardware wasn't needed, but there are others as well

I haven't made the following upgrades, but would like to once I have the funds:
- upgrade Mainboard (or stepper drivers)
- adding BLTouch (or other means for auto-bed leveling)
- adding LED strip
- upgrade to all metal hot-end

Also, just a note about the stepper motor dampers. Check the gears and motor mounts, as Creality changed these at some point to press-in-place gears.

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19 hours ago, burh4n said:

I would suggest checking out this article about Ender 3 upgrades

 

I've had my Ender 3 (non-Pro) for just shy of a year and would suggest these upgrades (out of the box):
- All-metal feeder
- uxcell Springs
- Firmware upgrade (Marlin 1.1.9 if not already installed; requires Arduino)
    > enables thermal runaway protection
    > allows for manual mesh bed leveling
- Setup OctoPrint (most use a RPi3, I used an old Win10 laptop)
- Upgrade Bowden tube to Capricorn PTFE tube
- Printing various cable clips and other printer upgrades (see article)
- I went with a Hero Me gen3 fan duct upgrade since additional hardware wasn't needed, but there are others as well

I haven't made the following upgrades, but would like to once I have the funds:
- upgrade Mainboard (or stepper drivers)
- adding BLTouch (or other means for auto-bed leveling)
- adding LED strip
- upgrade to all metal hot-end

Also, just a note about the stepper motor dampers. Check the gears and motor mounts, as Creality changed these at some point to press-in-place gears.

Way ahead of you there. 

Silent build - You know your pc is too loud when the deaf complain. Windows 98 gaming build, smells like beige

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