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So I've recently just been using my CPU integrated graphics (I know, like a savage) and a friend of mine heard, then offered to sell me is GTX 1080 with an EKWB for a decent price. The issue with this is it has been sitting for a year or so after being part of his water system. For some reason he also had the stock fan so I thought it would be a 20-30 minute task of replacing the water block with the stock fan. I was very wrong. The fittings between the water block and the backplate have sort of separated or weren't screwed in well so the fittings/spacers were spinning when I tried to unscrew the back plate screws. After hours of trying got all but 2 of them, but these last two are 100% stripped. So this leads to me two real options and a few questions. My two options are, figure out how to remove the stripped screws (drill them out or use a stripped screw bit) or set up a small GPU only water system.

 

On the water cooling front:

1. Is this algae? (see attached photos) Do I need to open it up to clean it or can I simply run a loop for a bit and then dump the water out. Like I said this has been sitting for a year+. Could I run the loop with some type of aquarium soap or other fluid to remove it? If I'm opening it up to clean it I'm back off trying to remove the stripped screws from the back plate.

2. I was thinking of buying a small kit like Corsair Hydro H100i Pro (https://www.microcenter.com/product/506853/corsair-hydro-h100i-pro-240mm-rgb-water-cooling-kit) + extra fittings and tubing for the GPU. I might not even run the CPU cooler and just run the GPU. I could alternatively just get a radiator and some fittings + tubing. I have an Hyper 212 EVO and don't really care about cooling the CPU at this point; I just want the GPU to work.

3. For these simple kit loops do you need to add anything if you're running with the GPU as well?

 

On the stripped screw front:

1. How crazy would I be to take a drill to this GPU?

2. Does anyone know of anything similar to this occurring?

3. Any tips or advice for how to remove the last two screws?

4. Has anyone replaced a WB with the stock fan? Are there any gotchas I might be missing?

 

Edit: Made some questions more specific.

 

Thanks, guys.

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From the photos, a lot of that looks more like corrosion buildup to me (the brown may well be growth, but the green looks more like corrosion). Not having it in hand though, I'll have to take your word that it is growth.

I'd really recommend you not try to clean it by running the loop. All that's going to do is mobilize the growth (or corrosion), if it will pick it up, and deposit it somewhere else. You're going to be better off taking that block cover off.

To my knowledge the H100i Pro isn't an expandable loop, looking at the pictures MC has, it does look like a closed loop, which would make adding the GPU much more difficult, and realistically, not what it's designed for, it has no res in addition to that. For a custom loop you will need at least one radiator, a reservoir and pump, you can get res/pump combos if you so like, tubing, and fittings. Two fittings per each component (CPU block, GPU block, radiator(s), pump, and reservoir, what fittings you need will depend on your loop layout.

As for removing the stripped screw, it can be drilled out so long as you're very deliberate with what you are doing. A drill press can help as well, if it's variable speed or low RPM. I'm not entirely certain what screws you're addressing as stripped though.
 

~Remember to quote posts to continue support on your thread~
-Don't be this kind of person-

CPU:  AMD Ryzen 7 5800x | RAM: 2x16GB Crucial Ripjaws Z | Cooling: XSPC/EK/Bitspower loop | MOBO: Gigabyte x570 Aorus Master | PSU: Seasonic Prime 750 Titanium  

SSD: 250GB Samsung 980 PRO (OS) | 1TB Crucial MX500| 2TB Crucial P2 | Case: Phanteks Evolv X | GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 (with EK Block) | HDD: 1x Seagate Barracuda 2TB

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10 minutes ago, Semper said:

From the photos, a lot of that looks more like corrosion buildup to me (the brown may well be growth, but the green looks more like corrosion). Not having it in hand though, I'll have to take your word that it is growth.

I'd really recommend you not try to clean it by running the loop. All that's going to do is mobilize the growth (or corrosion), if it will pick it up, and deposit it somewhere else. You're going to be better off taking that block cover off.

To my knowledge the H100i Pro isn't an expandable loop, looking at the pictures MC has, it does look like a closed loop, which would make adding the GPU much more difficult, and realistically, not what it's designed for, it has no res in addition to that. For a custom loop you will need at least one radiator, a reservoir and pump, you can get res/pump combos if you so like, tubing, and fittings. Two fittings per each component (CPU block, GPU block, radiator(s), pump, and reservoir, what fittings you need will depend on your loop layout.

As for removing the stripped screw, it can be drilled out so long as you're very deliberate with what you are doing. A drill press can help as well, if it's variable speed or low RPM. I'm not entirely certain what screws you're addressing as stripped though.
 

A million times over thanks for the response. I'll add a pic of the backplate screws and the spacer issue. I really don't know if its growth but if I need to clean out the corrosion anyways I guess it doesn't really matter. I edited my question about what I needed I was really talking about adding a GPU block to the "intro to WC" type kits and didn't make that clear. I guess end of the day I'll need to drill these out somehow either way. I think using a stripped screw bit will just continue my problem of spinning spacers so I'll probably go with some fresh metal drill bits and see where that leads me. Also, I agree, the real scary thing here is how my hand drill is going near a GPU, even on a light tough / low speed its frightening.

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12 minutes ago, xzel said:

A million times over thanks for the response. I'll add a pic of the backplate screws and the spacer issue. I really don't know if its growth but if I need to clean out the corrosion anyways I guess it doesn't really matter. I edited my question about what I needed I was really talking about adding a GPU block to the "intro to WC" type kits and didn't make that clear. I guess end of the day I'll need to drill these out somehow either way. I think using a stripped screw bit will just continue my problem of spinning spacers so I'll probably go with some fresh metal drill bits and see where that leads me. Also, I agree, the real scary thing here is how my hand drill is going near a GPU, even on a light tough / low speed its frightening.

I'll await those pictures in that case.

The brown coloration on the flow path may very well be growth, but the greenish color on the fins is very likely corrosion. If I were a betting man, that's where I'd put my money.

"starter" watercooling kits (like EKWB's Fluid Gaming series) are something you're going to need to be careful with. A lot of those tend to be aluminum, This block is nickel plated copper and while mixing metals isn't the end of the world, it's heavily discouraged as very specific precautions have to be taken in order to prevent galvanic corrosion, something that will destroy your loop and may potentially take other components with it when it does.

Take a look at this:

 

~Remember to quote posts to continue support on your thread~
-Don't be this kind of person-

CPU:  AMD Ryzen 7 5800x | RAM: 2x16GB Crucial Ripjaws Z | Cooling: XSPC/EK/Bitspower loop | MOBO: Gigabyte x570 Aorus Master | PSU: Seasonic Prime 750 Titanium  

SSD: 250GB Samsung 980 PRO (OS) | 1TB Crucial MX500| 2TB Crucial P2 | Case: Phanteks Evolv X | GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 (with EK Block) | HDD: 1x Seagate Barracuda 2TB

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10 minutes ago, Semper said:

I'll await those pictures in that case.

The brown coloration on the flow path may very well be growth, but the greenish color on the fins is very likely corrosion. If I were a betting man, that's where I'd put my money.

"starter" watercooling kits (like EKWB's Fluid Gaming series) are something you're going to need to be careful with. A lot of those tend to be aluminum, This block is nickel plated copper and while mixing metals isn't the end of the world, it's heavily discouraged as very specific precautions have to be taken in order to prevent galvanic corrosion, something that will destroy your loop and may potentially take other components with it when it does.

Take a look at this:

 

I've actually watched this video and a few others featuring EKWB cards and surprise surprise they all skip unscrewing the back plate haha. The aluminum vs nickel + copper is a great point I did not think of that at all. Its a shame setting up a small loop just for this GPU would probably run me about 200 bucks but I might pull the trigger.

 

I'm thinking this right now (assuming I can get these screws off):

Pump: https://www.microcenter.com/product/391771/swiftech-mcp655-b-12-volts-industrial-pump

Radiator: https://www.microcenter.com/product/513143/corsair-hydro-xr5-dual-240mm-water-cooling-radiator or https://www.microcenter.com/product/486731/ekwb-coolstream-pe-240-mm-high-performance-computer-water-cooling-dual-radiator

Res: https://www.microcenter.com/product/391776/swiftech-mcres-micro-r2-ssf-hi-flow-acrylic-reservoir or https://www.microcenter.com/product/486737/ekwb-water-cooling-reservoir

 

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