I7 8700K overheats

[helgehelge123]

Few days ago my CPU started to behave weirdly, the temperature is pretty much perfectly bound to the wattage. There is no heat buffer of any kind. Use the CPU and it jumps into thermal throttling in 2 seconds, release the load and it's back to 50°.
I replaced Intels TIM and thermal paste with Kryonaut. Double checked the spread of the goop and set my bios back to defaults. Fans and pump running normally. Still no change.

I use a (now cleaned) SilentLoop 360 to cool the CPU and it gets fresh air from outside the case.

Here's a clip of the action after my applied "fixes" with stock CPU settings.

Please help

Edit: CPU wen't down to 32°C while writing this post, still same behavior, tho
Edit2:Bios is up to date.

[88pockets]

It sounds like you have done all you can with the HW side of things.  A 360mm rad is plenty and the upgrade to liquid metal should get you the rest of the way.  I am curious how good the contact is between the die and and the IHS.  I always put a thin layer of LM on the die and then another on the IHS where it will hit the die, very little is necessary.  With my 7700k I did not glue the IHS back to the package as I didn't want to have to tear it apart again.  The mobo CPU retention thing keeps the IHS In place just fine and then it cooled by a Corsair H110i -240 mil rad.  I think you should look at the voltage in the bios and see what tweaks yeild waht results.  Liquid Metal and a 360 mil rad should take care of it though.

[helgehelge123]

41 minutes ago, 88pockets said:

It sounds like you have done all you can with the HW side of things.  A 360mm rad is plenty and the upgrade to liquid metal should get you the rest of the way.  I am curious how good the contact is between the die and and the IHS.  I always put a thin layer of LM on the die and then another on the IHS where it will hit the die, very little is necessary.  With my 7700k I did not glue the IHS back to the package as I didn't want to have to tear it apart again.  The mobo CPU retention thing keeps the IHS In place just fine and then it cooled by a Corsair H110i -240 mil rad.  I think you should look at the voltage in the bios and see what tweaks yeild waht results.  Liquid Metal and a 360 mil rad should take care of it though.

Kryonaut is the non LQ thermal compound and I applied plenty and checked the contact on both sides of the IHS.
The voltage maxes out at 1.296, which is not that high and it still reaches 100° in a matter of seconds on 4.3GHz. 
I'm gonna swap the SilentLoop out for a Noctua U12S and see if that changes things.

Thanks for the tips, tho

[88pockets]

1 hour ago, helgehelge123 said:

Kryonaut is the non LQ thermal compound and I applied plenty

The "I applied plenty comment" is possibly your issue.  Less is more for a die to IHS heat transfer.  Maybe try using liquid metal instead and do note that every couple of years you will want to replace the LM.  I used a rockit88 kit to delid and relid the cpu but there is no risk of gap between the die and IHS as I used no glue to hold it in place.  If you don't want to do LM, re paste the die, with a thin layer on the die only and then seal it up and use the retention arm from the Mobo to hold the IHS on the CPU.

[solarflare]

pump stuck?  something seems wrong . a waterblock will do that if flow stops 

[helgehelge123]

6 hours ago, 88pockets said:

The "I applied plenty comment" is possibly your issue.  Less is more for a die to IHS heat transfer.  Maybe try using liquid metal instead and do note that every couple of years you will want to replace the LM.  I used a rockit88 kit to delid and relid the cpu but there is no risk of gap between the die and IHS as I used no glue to hold it in place.  If you don't want to do LM, re paste the die, with a thin layer on the die only and then seal it up and use the retention arm from the Mobo to hold the IHS on the CPU.

Well, the die hat LM on it before I changed it to Kryonaut because I thought it's time to replace it but the old LM looked perfectly fine and I did not smear a pea sized ball on the die but i covered it. I don't think the heat transfer from die to cooler is the problem, because it can go to 27°C w/o load. 

5 hours ago, solarflare said:

pump stuck?  something seems wrong . a waterblock will do that if flow stops 

It spins with 2500 RPM (Chassis 4 in the video), can the block still be gummed up?

[Mister Woof]

Did you use glue on the IHS?

 

Half the benefit of delid is reducing distance between die and IHS.

[Ajukrezi]

The pump can spin without flow.
that jump in temp is looking alot like youre heat is not removed at all.

i looked at the utilization and temp. it was 3% and 47 degrees and 22w then at the jump it goes to 87 degrees at 88w and then on to 115w with 91% utilization.

 

so in once refresh with wattage jump the temp jump. Youre right the wattage and degrees stick nicely to each other but youre cooler is not removing anything.

and since you checked thermal application i would suspect the cooler is somehow kinked or gunked up. well or disappated so much liquid it cant press the liquid around anymore.

 

i would switch to any random air cooler lying around to see if that worked, if not then you messed up something on the IHS.

but i would suggest the cooler is dead. custom liquid cooling could be troubleshoot alot better though

 

[solarflare]

On 2/7/2020 at 1:02 AM, Ajukrezi said:

The pump can spin without flow.
that jump in temp is looking alot like youre heat is not removed at all.

i looked at the utilization and temp. it was 3% and 47 degrees and 22w then at the jump it goes to 87 degrees at 88w and then on to 115w with 91% utilization.

 

so in once refresh with wattage jump the temp jump. Youre right the wattage and degrees stick nicely to each other but youre cooler is not removing anything.

and since you checked thermal application i would suspect the cooler is somehow kinked or gunked up. well or disappated so much liquid it cant press the liquid around anymore.

 

i would switch to any random air cooler lying around to see if that worked, if not then you messed up something on the IHS.

but i would suggest the cooler is dead. custom liquid cooling could be troubleshoot alot better though

 

this is good advice. 

if air cooling works you know the pump or loop is not working properly. 

if it doesn't then maybe a gap between heat spreader and dye is occurring.