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New speakers for my car

newcbomb

I need to replace the rear deck speakers in my car. One is blown so I thought I might as well replace them all. 

Which pair would be better, or a mix of both?

Kenwood for Front and Back
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B079HJB67X/
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07B6FP8PW/

or

JVC for Front and Back
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00O53ACRE/
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00OO1ENP4/

I like speakers that can handle a good amount of bass but they don't need to go loud. Which would be the best quality do y'all think?

 

P.S. Sorry if this isn't the right thread

Specs:

 Gaming PC: i5 3570, 16GB 1600MHz, GTX 780 3GB, Transcend 128GB, WD 500GB, Seagate 500GB, Thermaltake 600W Smart, S340 w/ RGB, Windows 10 Pro

 Server: Xeon E5 2650, 12GB 1600MHz ECC, 8400GS, WD 2TB + 1TB + 1TB, EVGA 500B 500W, Windows 10 Pro

 Laptop: Macbook Pro Retina 2013, i7 4558U, 8GB 1600MHz, Intel Iris Pro 1.5GB, Apple 256GB NVME, Mojave

 

 Internet: $70/month For 500/100, Actually get 525/102

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Order your speakers from Crutchfield instead of Amazon. The reviews there are most likely higher quality, and you will gets ones you know for sure will fit, and you get a free instruction manual specifically for your car with photo's as well. Can't rate their services high enough.

Desktop: i9 11900k, 32GB DDR4, 4060 Ti 8GB 🙂

 

 

 

 

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10 minutes ago, Theguywhobea said:

Order your speakers from Crutchfield instead of Amazon. The reviews there are most likely higher quality, and you will gets ones you know for sure will fit, and you get a free instruction manual specifically for your car with photo's as well. Can't rate their services high enough.

Maybe Ill buy one from crutchfiled and one from amazon, that way I get the kit and its cheaper. 

Specs:

 Gaming PC: i5 3570, 16GB 1600MHz, GTX 780 3GB, Transcend 128GB, WD 500GB, Seagate 500GB, Thermaltake 600W Smart, S340 w/ RGB, Windows 10 Pro

 Server: Xeon E5 2650, 12GB 1600MHz ECC, 8400GS, WD 2TB + 1TB + 1TB, EVGA 500B 500W, Windows 10 Pro

 Laptop: Macbook Pro Retina 2013, i7 4558U, 8GB 1600MHz, Intel Iris Pro 1.5GB, Apple 256GB NVME, Mojave

 

 Internet: $70/month For 500/100, Actually get 525/102

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I agree with the suggestion for going with Crutchfield, since they tend to offer discounts for the necessary accessories needed for your speaker installation.

 

However, the requirement on handling a good amount of bass may depend greatly on your music preferences and targeted frequency range. Especially since you would need to ensure you pick the right driver(s) capable of reproducing the bass as well as what you'll be driving them with. Example, are you running a factory headunit, an aftermarket head unit, a premium factory amplified system, or an aftermarket amplifier added to a factory system.

 

You don't necessarily have to have a lot of power to listen to music at loud volumes, but generally to achieve good bass response you need decent amount of power behind the drivers. Considering the lower frequency range eats up power, especially when you begin factoring in speaker efficiencies. 

 

Assuming the 6x9s are what you'll use for the rear deck, then that's a good start regardless. I might would suggest focusing on a nice pair of 2-way coaxial speakers or even a component set for the front and something like the Tang Band W69-1042J 6"x9" Subwoofer drivers that could be bought from Parts-Express. :) 

 

Mixing is fine as well, especially if it ends up getting you a better deal anyway, or the ability to chose something that performs better for a given duty it must take care of. ;) 

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1 hour ago, ReeseRiverson said:

I agree with the suggestion for going with Crutchfield, since they tend to offer discounts for the necessary accessories needed for your speaker installation.

 

However, the requirement on handling a good amount of bass may depend greatly on your music preferences and targeted frequency range. Especially since you would need to ensure you pick the right driver(s) capable of reproducing the bass as well as what you'll be driving them with. Example, are you running a factory headunit, an aftermarket head unit, a premium factory amplified system, or an aftermarket amplifier added to a factory system.

 

You don't necessarily have to have a lot of power to listen to music at loud volumes, but generally to achieve good bass response you need decent amount of power behind the drivers. Considering the lower frequency range eats up power, especially when you begin factoring in speaker efficiencies. 

 

Assuming the 6x9s are what you'll use for the rear deck, then that's a good start regardless. I might would suggest focusing on a nice pair of 2-way coaxial speakers or even a component set for the front and something like the Tang Band W69-1042J 6"x9" Subwoofer drivers that could be bought from Parts-Express. :) 

 

Mixing is fine as well, especially if it ends up getting you a better deal anyway, or the ability to chose something that performs better for a given duty it must take care of. ;) 

Thanks so much for the insight. I have an aftermarket Kenwood Head unit capable of 50W RMS x 4 channels. The speakers im looking at now are the Pioneer TS-G690 which are 45W RMS 3-way speakers. Should be all good right? I already get really good bass out of my factory speakers its just annoying since one is blown, but the other one sounds great. I dont want subs, but good full-range drivers. 

 

Also, welcome to the Forum!

Specs:

 Gaming PC: i5 3570, 16GB 1600MHz, GTX 780 3GB, Transcend 128GB, WD 500GB, Seagate 500GB, Thermaltake 600W Smart, S340 w/ RGB, Windows 10 Pro

 Server: Xeon E5 2650, 12GB 1600MHz ECC, 8400GS, WD 2TB + 1TB + 1TB, EVGA 500B 500W, Windows 10 Pro

 Laptop: Macbook Pro Retina 2013, i7 4558U, 8GB 1600MHz, Intel Iris Pro 1.5GB, Apple 256GB NVME, Mojave

 

 Internet: $70/month For 500/100, Actually get 525/102

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You're welcome! Also thank you for the welcome!

 

As for the full-range requirement, that's understandable. I mostly recommended that in case you (or anyone else) may have had more focus on full-range in the front stage instead of all around. One thing's for sure, everyone's definitely got multiple preferences for which way to go. It's almost hard to cover every possible route at once! ?

 

The only thing I should make note about the power is that too often the power rating figures within car audio are inflated, or are only rated for say a 10% THD (Total Harmonic Distortion). Thus why I generally would recommend an external amplifier for most systems so you can give them clean power. I mostly bring this up because there is always a chance of blowing up your speakers or frying them from clipping a small amplifier. Though I also don't know the age of your car, so it's also possible to have been caused from the foam surround rotting away too.

 

As far as the Pioneers go, they really should easily surpass the factory speaker quality anyway, especially when one of those is already blown. If that's within your budget range, I don't see any harm in it. :)

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38 minutes ago, ReeseRiverson said:

-snip-

 

Great. Its an extremely well maintained 2006 Pontiac. The head unit was put in around 2016. I just found out that its actually 22wRMS on all 4 channels. The speakers I just bought are 45W RMS. Would this be an issue? 

Specs:

 Gaming PC: i5 3570, 16GB 1600MHz, GTX 780 3GB, Transcend 128GB, WD 500GB, Seagate 500GB, Thermaltake 600W Smart, S340 w/ RGB, Windows 10 Pro

 Server: Xeon E5 2650, 12GB 1600MHz ECC, 8400GS, WD 2TB + 1TB + 1TB, EVGA 500B 500W, Windows 10 Pro

 Laptop: Macbook Pro Retina 2013, i7 4558U, 8GB 1600MHz, Intel Iris Pro 1.5GB, Apple 256GB NVME, Mojave

 

 Internet: $70/month For 500/100, Actually get 525/102

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That mostly depends on how loud you really want to play music, but there wouldn't be a problem with powering them off the headunit within reasonable volume levels. If your listening preferences end up causing you to clip the amp, to cause distortion then you'll definitely want to add an amplifier to provide more power.

 

The speakers are rated at 90dB sensitivity at 1 watt, which is generally at a meter distance (Or 3.28 feet). Every 3dB added means double the power requirement, and for every 10dB requires 10x power increments as well.

 

An amp with 20 watts per channel with a 90dB sensitive speaker would be about 103dB (This isn't taking any cabin gain into consideration.) An amp with 45 watts per channel with that same speaker would play at 106.5dB. That's your difference between trying to match the speaker power exactly with an amp versus the headunit.

 

Since your original post said they don't need to go loud, which your definition of loud may differ from mine, that may be perfect, or near perfect for what your aiming for. Like I said earlier, low frequencies for bass response will eat the majority of power. That's when you'll notice driving the headunit's built in amplifier to clip if you ever push it to it's limits.

 

You'll likely be fine starting out with using the headunit to power everything right now anyway, and if you do run into clipping, back off on the volume control. At least then you can decide to plan for adding a nice amplifier to drive all the speakers should you need it. :) 

 

Other than that, I generally always recommend a good amplifier anyway because the headroom for the power would always help result in cleaner sound. Plus less chances of frying the tweeters first from it. Like for me, I'm in the works of upgrading the audio in my CR-V, and the factory amp just isn't enough. So I'm looking to change out the speakers and bypass the factory amp (Yet keep the factory headunit.). Which as it is can actually do probably around 20WPC cleanish in mine, and other than the lack of bass below 50Hz, it can still get louder than most people would care for. So you still may come out pretty happy with just upgrading your speakers to see how you stand. Plus no harm in taking it a step at a time for the upgrade process. :) 

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On 2/22/2019 at 11:53 PM, ReeseRiverson said:

-snip-

 

Thanks so much for all the input!

Specs:

 Gaming PC: i5 3570, 16GB 1600MHz, GTX 780 3GB, Transcend 128GB, WD 500GB, Seagate 500GB, Thermaltake 600W Smart, S340 w/ RGB, Windows 10 Pro

 Server: Xeon E5 2650, 12GB 1600MHz ECC, 8400GS, WD 2TB + 1TB + 1TB, EVGA 500B 500W, Windows 10 Pro

 Laptop: Macbook Pro Retina 2013, i7 4558U, 8GB 1600MHz, Intel Iris Pro 1.5GB, Apple 256GB NVME, Mojave

 

 Internet: $70/month For 500/100, Actually get 525/102

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@ReeseRiverson So apparently, my car has an aftermarket Monsoon system and not the stock system. The monsoon system is 2ohms and the stock is 4ohms (which are what the speakers I bought are). Also, the 2ohm speakers have 4 wires. 2 for tweeter and 2 for the woofer. So I can't use a regular 2 pronged speaker. 

 

So this got me thinking about just replacing the head unit. It's currently a Kenwood 4ohm 22RMS x 4 that runs to a Monsoon 2ohm Amp that drives all the speakers. So (I think) I can replace the head unit with any head unit. I'm thinking about a Pioneer unit with 14RMS x 4 but this won't matter with the Monsoon amp, right?

 

Thanks 

Specs:

 Gaming PC: i5 3570, 16GB 1600MHz, GTX 780 3GB, Transcend 128GB, WD 500GB, Seagate 500GB, Thermaltake 600W Smart, S340 w/ RGB, Windows 10 Pro

 Server: Xeon E5 2650, 12GB 1600MHz ECC, 8400GS, WD 2TB + 1TB + 1TB, EVGA 500B 500W, Windows 10 Pro

 Laptop: Macbook Pro Retina 2013, i7 4558U, 8GB 1600MHz, Intel Iris Pro 1.5GB, Apple 256GB NVME, Mojave

 

 Internet: $70/month For 500/100, Actually get 525/102

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