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Physicial hardware problem

TheSaber
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Go to solution Solved by Turtle Rig,

Welcome!  Take her to a local Fry's or geek squad to get that screw removed without doing damage, or just try to pull it out with a magnet screw driver and what not.

Hello first time poster here with a bit of a pickle I recently built my first PC and everything went as expected ran into a few hiccups here and there but have had my system running for a good 2 months now, anyways onto the issue at hand I bought a cheap cooler master liquid cooler for my rig as I had exhausted all my resources at that point and was low on cash, I had reused my old PSU from my last prebuilt which I modified by changing PSU and GPU on on my newer build and it eventually gave out at some point the cables on it were short and the routing to the cpu power connector was done badly due to it being so short. Anyways I swapped the PSU and when trying to unscrew the brackets for my liquid cooler I noticed that they kept turning and turning and turning up to the point that I noticed that they weren't becoming loose what essentially happened is that 2 of the bracket screws became stripped and stuck there! I am now stuck with this liquid cooler on this mobo and really dont know how to go about removing the two screws without doing damage to the mobo, at the immediate moment there is no issue whatsoever with the status quo but I have been thinking of upgrading to a better liquid cooler with a bigger radiator as mine is a single fan. If anything were to happen to the liquid cooler and it stopped working I would essentially be kind of screwed(no pun intended) as the screws are stripped and will not let me remove it.

tl;dr 2 of my brackets are stripped and my liquid cooler is stuck to my mobo any suggestions of the safest way to remove them without doing damage to the motherboard or nearby components such as the CPU here are my specs just in case they are relevant

Operating System
            Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
        CPU
            Intel Core i5 @ 3.60GHz    38 °C
            Coffee Lake 14nm Technology
        RAM
            16.0GB Dual-Channel Unknown @ 1066MHz (15-15-15-36)
        Motherboard
            ASRock Z370 Killer SLI/ac (CPUSocket)    31 °C
        Graphics
            MSI MAG271C (1920x1080@144Hz)
            U28D590 (3840x2160@60Hz)
            SAMSUNG (3840x2160@60Hz)
            RX-V675 (1920x1080@30Hz)
            4095MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 Ti (Gigabyte)    54 °C
        Storage
            465GB Samsung SSD 860 EVO 500GB (SATA (SSD))    35 °C
            931GB Hitachi HDT721010SLA360 (SATA )    28 °C
            1397GB Western Digital WD My Passport 0820 USB Device (USB (SATA) (SSD))    35 °C
        Optical Drives
            No optical disk drives detected
        Audio
            NVIDIA High Definition Audio
 

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Welcome!  Take her to a local Fry's or geek squad to get that screw removed without doing damage, or just try to pull it out with a magnet screw driver and what not.

Asus Sabertooth x79 / 4930k @ 4500 @ 1.408v / Gigabyte WF 2080 RTX / Corsair VG 64GB @ 1866 & AX1600i & H115i Pro @ 2x Noctua NF-A14 / Carbide 330r Blackout

Scarlett 2i2 Audio Interface / KRK Rokits 10" / Sennheiser HD 650 / Logitech G Pro Wireless Mouse & G915 Linear & G935 & C920 / SL 88 Grand / Cakewalk / NF-A14 Int P12 Ex
AOC 40" 4k Curved / LG 55" OLED C9 120hz / LaCie Porsche Design 2TB & 500GB / Samsung 950 Pro 500GB / 850 Pro 500GB / Crucial m4 500GB / Asus M.2 Card

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5 minutes ago, Turtle Rig said:

Welcome!  Take her to a local Fry's or geek squad to get that screw removed without doing damage, or just try to pull it out with a magnet screw driver and what not.

Thank you! I may go to fry's as there is one real close to me in my city. How much would it cost me to have this service done generally? I really dont want to try this on my own as I have heard that this particular asrock board is prone to bending and easy damage.

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2 minutes ago, TheSaber said:

Thank you! I may go to fry's as there is one real close to me in my city. How much would it cost me to have this service done generally? I really dont want to try this on my own as I have heard that this particular asrock board is prone to bending and easy damage.

Yes or cracking, and we don't want that.  Fry's is 65 or 70 dollars.  However your issue is simple they might do it for less, but at max youll spend like 70 bucks. 

Asus Sabertooth x79 / 4930k @ 4500 @ 1.408v / Gigabyte WF 2080 RTX / Corsair VG 64GB @ 1866 & AX1600i & H115i Pro @ 2x Noctua NF-A14 / Carbide 330r Blackout

Scarlett 2i2 Audio Interface / KRK Rokits 10" / Sennheiser HD 650 / Logitech G Pro Wireless Mouse & G915 Linear & G935 & C920 / SL 88 Grand / Cakewalk / NF-A14 Int P12 Ex
AOC 40" 4k Curved / LG 55" OLED C9 120hz / LaCie Porsche Design 2TB & 500GB / Samsung 950 Pro 500GB / 850 Pro 500GB / Crucial m4 500GB / Asus M.2 Card

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9 minutes ago, Turtle Rig said:

Yes or cracking, and we don't want that.  Fry's is 65 or 70 dollars.  However your issue is simple they might do it for less, but at max youll spend like 70 bucks. 

Yikes! Well this will be a problem to solve when I am in need of a new AIO cooler as of now this single pump is doing it's tiny job fine keeping me cool and stable at 4.5ghz every day use. Thank you for the quick reply!

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If you have a drill or can borrow one, you can buy screw extractor drill bit sets like this one for example : https://www.amazon.com/Damaged-Screw-Extractor-Set-Stripped/dp/B07HGSPQDV/

Note that it's very important that the motherboard is on some hard surface so that when you put pressure on the screw from above with your drill, the board doesn't flex, bend etc  you must have something very hard solid right under where the screw is, where you put pressure with your hand or drill.

Goes without saying you really have to be careful that the drill bit doesn't jump out and hits the motherboard.

 

Newark has a slightly more expensive set (~25$) that you can use without a drill : https://www.newark.com/moody-tools/58-0670/screw-extractor-set-slot-philips/dp/02M7851

 

See the video below at around 4:25 on how to use these screw extractor things (both the manual kind in the link above, and the ones with drill are the same) :

And you may also want to check out the rubber band method at around 1:30 ... with a big screwdriver it may work for you. But again, VERY careful not to slip with the screwdriver.

 

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13 minutes ago, mariushm said:

If you have a drill or can borrow one, you can buy screw extractor drill bit sets like this one for example : https://www.amazon.com/Damaged-Screw-Extractor-Set-Stripped/dp/B07HGSPQDV/

Note that it's very important that the motherboard is on some hard surface so that when you put pressure on the screw from above with your drill, the board doesn't flex, bend etc  you must have something very hard solid right under where the screw is, where you put pressure with your hand or drill.

Goes without saying you really have to be careful that the drill bit doesn't jump out and hits the motherboard.

 

Newark has a slightly more expensive set (~25$) that you can use without a drill : https://www.newark.com/moody-tools/58-0670/screw-extractor-set-slot-philips/dp/02M7851

 

See the video below at around 4:25 on how to use these screw extractor things (both the manual kind in the link above, and the ones with drill are the same) :

And you may also want to check out the rubber band method at around 1:30 ... with a big screwdriver it may work for you. But again, VERY careful not to slip with the screwdriver.

 

Thank you for those detailed instructions! They do give me a little bit of more confidence to go about this on my own, when time time comes I may update this to let you guys know which route I went about for fixing this issue!

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