Converting old Roadcase into PC case

SilicateWielder · September 27, 2016

Hello guys,

Over the past few weeks I have been working to modify an old road case I obtained into something suitable for use with PC hardware. It's wooden with a plastic shell and aluminum frame on the exterior. The entire thing is held together with Rivets and is probably about 40 years old.

The case is still very sturdy overall, with it's rear hinge spanning the entire length of the case. It's also got a folding reinforcement bar to support the back of the case.

I will post images if anyone wishes to see, but it will take time as I do not have internet at home. I can also post any measurements I can make if anyone is interested.

For those interested, these are the original problems that case had

Spoiler

rusting of the steel corners, and rivets, as well as clasps and handle mounting hardware (Rivets are 40 years old and still holding strong with no wiggle, amazing)
corrosion of aluminum in the case
Water retention under the faux-leather
Leather of the handle is worn out, severe rusting of the metal underneath the leather. (Still use-able if rust is removed)
Plywood (on sides) separated during removal of faux-leather interior.
Visible burn marks on exterior plastic panels

Here is also what I have done so far, for those interested:

Spoiler

Soaked mounting hardware for handle in lemon juice for 24-hours (bolts, hingebars, mounts) - Worked surprisingly well, no scrubbing needed
Filed steel corner pieces - Unsatisfactory results (Will try again by wetsanding)
Filed rust away on handle, will use sandpaper to work on the "inside" of it
Cleaned aluminum portions of frame with brillow pads, filed parts down to remove visible scratches. - adequate results, will continue filing.
Removed faux-leather interior - Adequate results, revealed water logging on interior (I suspect from the humid climate, now dry with leather removed)

I've run into some problems, the primary problem being unable to insert rivet nuts with a #6-32 UNC thread into the bottom of the case so I can install the motherboard, I do not know how to do this.

Aside from that I also wish to replace the plastic paneling on the exterior, I do not wish to drill out the rivets and have to rivet it all back together afterwards, these rivets are 40 years old and still going quite strong with no wiggle at all. I don't want to compromise this structural integrity.

Can anyone help me?

SLAYR · September 27, 2016

If you can't tap holes into the bottom of the case, you could make an insert for the computer to sit in the case, so that the motherboard and whole computer doesn't have to be exactly attached to the case,

SilicateWielder · September 27, 2016

1 hour ago, SLAYR said:

If you can't tap holes into the bottom of the case, you could make an insert for the computer to sit in the case, so that the motherboard and whole computer doesn't have to be exactly attached to the case,

The problem is that i'd have to buy a new case if I did that. And I already have too many as it is. (I have no room for any more cases!) Plus buying a case defeats the purpose of this project.

Not to mention the goal here is to recycle something into something else that can fit different needs.

SLAYR · September 27, 2016

44 minutes ago, UnbrokenMotion said:

The problem is that i'd have to buy a new case if I did that. And I already have too many as it is. (I have no room for any more cases!) Plus buying a case defeats the purpose of this project.

Not to mention the goal here is to recycle something into something else that can fit different needs.

I never said anything about buying another case.

Basically just get a piece of plywood or something, attach the motherboard to that, and then stick that into the case, and find a way to attach it, or make it big enough so that it can't move around inside.

SilicateWielder · September 28, 2016

17 hours ago, SLAYR said:

I never said anything about buying another case.

Basically just get a piece of plywood or something, attach the motherboard to that, and then stick that into the case, and find a way to attach it, or make it big enough so that it can't move around inside.

Good idea, I didn't even think of that.

The bottom is wooden so I could use wood glue to adhere some plywood to the bottom, after that it's just a matter drilling out four 1/4" holes that are 3/8" deep for using #6-32 UNC brass threaded inserts. I may be able to get my homeroom teacher to let me use the drill press in my highschool's woodshop. I'm already familiar with how to use one from the metals and fabrication class I'm taking.