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Bad Cherry MX Blue? I've never seen this defect.

I'm pretty sure that this is the right place for this.

I just bought myself a Ducky Shine II 9008S2 with blue switches and it is fantastic! There's only one problem however: my esc key activates by barely even touching it. I figured that it was a bad switch from the manufacturer and I just sent an email to hopefully get a replacement sent out asap. However, I am curious as to what would have caused this sort of defect and is there a way I can fix this without any sort of desoldering? (Replace the switch, ect.) I'm not sure what the best route of action to take is since these switches have LED's. What do you guys think?

Thanks in advance!

Video of the problem depicted above:

 

EDIT: Not sure why it won't played embeded (For me at least). Watch via the YouTube site if it won't play.

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It seems just to me that the key isn't activating, but just the led?

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The key is definitely activating. In games all I have to do is barely touch it and it actuates. I just was using the LED as an example of the activation since it is linear with the problem.

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Hahaha, that's a very odd manufacturing glitch :P I don't think you'll be able to fix it without voiding the warranty but once you get your replacement i'm sure it'll be fixed.

export PS1='\[\033[1;30m\]┌╼ \[\033[1;32m\]\u@\h\[\033[1;30m\] ╾╼ \[\033[0;34m\]\w\[\033[0;36m\]\n\[\033[1;30m\]└╼ \[\033[1;37m\]'


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I sure hope so, bradscoolio. I really didn't want to have to pay shipping but I guess I have to.

Any idea what is causing this problem?

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yep its a bad switch. in the last year or so i have seen more and more complaints about the cherry mx switches regardless of colour. things like keys repeating till you hit it again. the overly sensitive actuation that your seeing. its an quality control issue and your warranty should cover it.

too be honest im less than impressed by the cherry mx switch as a whole. the clicky keys are the biggest offenders as they will often actuate just after the click as well as before it leading to double tap. i have heard people say its not an issue, you can get used to it. but if im paying 100+ for a keyboard i expect it to be more accurate than a membrane keyboard that costs a 5er.

Rig: Intel i7 920 D0 @3.5 | gtx970 | 12 gig Balistix 1333 @ 8-8-8-24 | 2x1TB Spinpoint F3 Raid 0 | 1TB Spinpoint F3 |samsung 840 evo|  Thermaltake 850w Tp |

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As I reside in the USA, would it better to fix it myself or ship it out to Ducky? I'd rather be out of a keyboard for as little as possible.

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Have you removed the key cap to check if there's anything in there that's partially pushing the key down?

A sieve may not hold water, but it will hold another sieve.

i5-6600, 16Gigs, ITX Corsair 250D, R9 390, 120Gig M.2 boot, 500Gig SATA SSD, no HDD

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thats an idea. use some preasurised gas to blast the gap between the switch. there may be a little bit of oil or some other gunk causing premature actuation...

Rig: Intel i7 920 D0 @3.5 | gtx970 | 12 gig Balistix 1333 @ 8-8-8-24 | 2x1TB Spinpoint F3 Raid 0 | 1TB Spinpoint F3 |samsung 840 evo|  Thermaltake 850w Tp |

Xfi extreme gamer | Antec 902

Peripherals: Samsung syncmaster 2494hs @1920/1080 - 60Hz | Q-pad MK85 | g502 | Razor Destructor | Logitech G930 | Logitech 3D pro xtreme | 360 pad | Nitro Wheel

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Have you removed the key cap to check if there's anything in there that's partially pushing the key down?

There is nothing underneath the keycap. Not really surprising since this is a brand new keyboard.

http://imgur.com/kCzOpBg

 

 

 

thats an idea. use some preasurised gas to blast the gap between the switch. there may be a little bit of oil or some other gunk causing premature actuation...

I read that that is bad internet advice and that it can damage the switch so I would rather not do that.

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I'm pretty sure that this is the right place for this.

I just bought myself a Ducky Shine II 9008S2 with blue switches and it is fantastic! There's only one problem however: my esc key activates by barely even touching it. I figured that it was a bad switch from the manufacturer and I just sent an email to hopefully get a replacement sent out asap. However, I am curious as to what would have caused this sort of defect and is there a way I can fix this without any sort of desoldering? (Replace the switch, ect.) I'm not sure what the best route of action to take is since these switches have LED's. What do you guys think?

Thanks in advance!

Video of the problem depicted above:

 

EDIT: Not sure why it won't played embeded (For me at least). Watch via the YouTube site if it won't play.

Maybe invest in a better keyboard? *cough* Razer *cough*

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It's all about preference. I've had both Razer and Ducky keyboards and Ducky's feel better and are more for what I want. I did not come here to get scolded on my purchase, just for help. :p

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Maybe invest in a better keyboard? *cough* Razer *cough*

lol you know nothing about what a good keyboard is if your picking razer over ducky.

razer keyboards have at the most 10 key roll over and thats in gaming mode. in reality there key roll over is between 2 and 6 so depending on which keys combos you press you may get as many as 6 simultaneous key presses being registered or as few as 2. this is because of there game matrix which may well improve the response of wasd but it does it at the expense of the other 1001 keys on the keyboard.

if you move off wasd your keyboard becomes no better than a $5 cosco/ £5 asda keyboard

the ducky shine on the other hand has 6key minimum roll over and if you use ps2 to connect to the keyboard you can have full keyboard roll over where regardless of how many keys you press they will all register.

so whats the difference you say you only use 5 fingers when gaming on the keyboard. well not all the time. games like teken tag can have up to 20 keystrokes  at a time when 2 players are playing off 1 keyboard. the duck would do it, the razer would crumple.

so no mate razer dont make a a good keyboard. infact apart from decent designe materials they make a very mediocre keyboard....

 

you see in my profile something called a Q-pad mk85 this is my keyboard and its a rare breed. it has full Nkroll off usb this puts it in a very exclusive class and makes it 1 of the best keyboards you can buy. 

 

 

razer made some good products but not a good keyboard. pretty much everything else they make is bells and whistles sold to fools who believe hype. if thats you im sorry but you got taken by over priced junk.

i know linus likes razor there latest little gadget the nostromo mk2 is worthy of praise as its an update on a handy little controller. but there mice suck in general suffering from acceleration issues, prediction issues, and so on... dont get me wrong i aint hating on razer i just dont rate them at all. they represent what is wrong with gaming.

plenty of reviewers swear by razers quality, but even more gamers have been sworn off them after there first purchase or when they got to try something else.

Rig: Intel i7 920 D0 @3.5 | gtx970 | 12 gig Balistix 1333 @ 8-8-8-24 | 2x1TB Spinpoint F3 Raid 0 | 1TB Spinpoint F3 |samsung 840 evo|  Thermaltake 850w Tp |

Xfi extreme gamer | Antec 902

Peripherals: Samsung syncmaster 2494hs @1920/1080 - 60Hz | Q-pad MK85 | g502 | Razor Destructor | Logitech G930 | Logitech 3D pro xtreme | 360 pad | Nitro Wheel

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I read that that is bad internet advice and that it can damage the switch so I would rather not do that.

Except, your switch is already damaged, so you could try it. You might also try prying the center blue portion of the switch out, to check if you can repair the contacts. (I'm not sure if that's possible on that particular switch model, but I've done it to similar switches in the past.)

Other than that it comes down to removing (un-soldering) the bad switch and installing a new one, or replacing the entire keyboard - under warranty, preferably. :)

A sieve may not hold water, but it will hold another sieve.

i5-6600, 16Gigs, ITX Corsair 250D, R9 390, 120Gig M.2 boot, 500Gig SATA SSD, no HDD

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