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Hello. Have been using an old wireless router for several years now. Awhile ago noticed that sometimes it would limit my download speed by a lot but would refuse access to its interface if I tried to access it. Only restarting router fixes those issues. It has to be done so manually because it does not have option to schedule self-restart. But it's only a temporary solution until router starts behaving like I described above. Usually takes a week or so for that to start happening Does anyone have any idea?

Hi. I don't know very much about Wireless Routers and network stuff but I want to ask you something....... I want to get use by my 300Mbps speed that I pay for it and to buy a new WiFi router. But I have a major issue.... the walls..... I live with my parents in an quite old building ( it's up since 2006) and the walls are reinforced (I mean they have a lot of steel in them) so the signal in others room is poor. Can you give some suggestions about routers? I have taught about Ubiquity UiFy long range. Will it make it done? P.S. I don't want to spent too much money on it because I'll move on my own in one year so I don't want to spend money on someting that I will leave here and not used Thanks in advance, KrYpToCiD

I'm moving into a small apartment soon, and I was looking for a wireless router recommendations. Since the apartment is small I don't need a ton of range. Should I look for anything specific, anything to stay away from? I am a poor college student, so a low price point is defiantly a plus. Thanks for the help!

I'm wondering if I can connect my phones hotspot to this range extender and then connect the extender to my wireless routers WAN port. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6PF48K4769

To give some background I currently own a Linksys AC5400 tri-band router. It's all great and everything, EXCEPT, the manual DNS does not work. it is a "bug", many forums lead to saying it's a feature. Had I known this I would have bought another router. I want one similar to like this with parental control as well. wouldn't mind if it had other features or if it was bundled with other devices, just as long as it has the following. Link to product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017NT8Q24/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Working manual DNS 802.11 ac gen 2 (including wireless bands a/b/g/n) can accommodate a large home. can be mesh prefer it not to be from google. Prefer it not to be from LinkSys. (This bug is in all their routers) privacy is something I would like. does not need to be compatible with a voice assistant.

I am currently looking for a new WiFi router to replace the crappy Comcast one. Currently, I’m looking at the Netgear Nighthawk X10 or the Nighthawk X6. I am trying to decide if I should spend 100 dollars more for the X10 which has 802.11AD and is about 2 years newer. What do you guys think? X10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M12RE4A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 X6 https://www.amazon.com/R8000-100NAS-Nighthawk-Tri-Band-Ethernet-Compatible/dp/B00KWHMR6G

Hi LTTians, Need suggestion for a Dual Band WIFI Router for 10K INR. I own a 200 Mbps fiber connection, which will give approximate of 190 Mbps down and up, will upgrade the connection for sure, if a better connection comes up for a better price (future proofing). One desktop over ethernet and one desktop over wifi,three laptops and three phones will be always connected to this router. Usage is ethernet machine will be used for gaming, zoom/webex streaming and video streaming etc. And rest of the devices will be used for zoom/webex streaming, video streaming and general surfing. Need suggestion for this use case. My apartment is around 1000 sq/ft. Please suggest a router for my scenario. These are the following sites, which I'll use it for buying, please suggest from the same. Amazon India Flipkart The IT Depot Thanks in advance.

As shown in the 1st picture, the wifi router is in ROOM A, connected with a pc by Ethernet Cable. But I need wireless connectivity in ROOM B 20m away from ROOM A separated by 2 walls. Can I just open up the router and replace the short wire with a long cable to the antenna from the circuit board and place the antenna in room B ? (shown in the 2nd picture) If it's possible , tell me if I can use wires from ethernet cables. or suggest me good cable with low resistance. My thoughts : maybe it won't work due to the resistance of long wire. ethernet cables have 18.8 ohm resistance which will increase with length. Even router's antenna connector has lower electric flow.

Guys I have a TP-Link WR740N router and a TP-Link WN725N wireless adapter, for a month I was getting like 1 MBps out of my 5 MBps connection, it used to frequently disconnect me from my network and then one day I discovered that I put the adapter in a USB 3.0 port and the adapter being a USB 2.0 one, it was somehow probably throttling my internet speed and I was at my normal speeds once again when I reconnected it to a USB 2.0 port. So I recovered back my full speeds but I still get disconnected every now and then and when I heard about this software DD-WRT I began wondering can this thing in any way help me like increasing transmission power or something? I really could benefit from that extra range.

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hello, my dad and i are looking to upgrade our main router. we currently have a 1st gen. apple base station, and we need something a bit more modern, though we have a list of requirements: it needs a gigabit switch, with at least 4 ports, and it needs to cover the ENTIRE wireless spectrum, from a to ac. we're both cheap skates, and dont want to spend alot,

What are some good wireless routers for 3 laptops 1 desktop (wired) PS3 4 mobile devices 2 video streaming devices Devices from occasional guests Thanks

So, i'm going to start with a quick preface: I have 3 of these very routers, and one "slightly more high end" model that is starting to get a bit flaky after 4-5 ish years of torture, and is gonna be replaced by the specific piece of junk in this review. i'm happy with them because they do what i need them for, at an absolutely minimum cost. YES, this thing actually costs less than a quality 8-port switch. NO, do not expect any mindblowing performance from this thing, more on that later. Also, i *am* gonna be rather sarcastic in this review, because there is no serious way to talk about these first: the unboxing: starting with the packaging, its what you'd expect a box of empty promises to look like, with big numbers, fancy slogans, and nice icons: tearing into the box, we find the contents, "slapped" in with great care, courtesy of TP-Link's very high standards: greeted with a driver disc? and a few booklets, let's see what we have: i'll let you look for yourself, but its mostly the stuff they're required to have in there: quicktart guide, full featured instructions, technical support numbers, and some other stuff. back to the box, we find the device itself (with hardmounted antennas, that are actually decent enough for me to not care about them being hardmounted) offcourse with a big sticker prompting us to read the quick start guide. i *actually* bothered checking the quickstart guide. the front gives us an ikea-style guide basicly telling anyone that has ever touched the guts of a computer that it's plug & play. the back tells us the vareous setup options: wired or wireless (with or without the driver disc thing) or their app, which i'm not gonna bother with. i guess its there for the people who need it, but i'm just gonna skip RIGHT over it since i've been here 3 times already. oh, should mention, theres some bonus junk in the bottom of the box: the 9V 0.6A wall plug on the left, a CAT5 cable on the right, yes folks, not CAT5e, CAT5. not like you'll be anything with CAT5e with this device either way. why? more on that later. the back of the device itself shows us the options we have: a big power button (i want all network devices to have this, PLEASE manufacturers implement this on more devices...) the power input, which is one of the most universal jacks i've seen, TP-link uses these, D-link, motorola's network devices, linksys, and even some laptops use them. next up are the THANKFULLY clearly marked WAN and 4 LAN ports the WPS button (that i never get to work, at least its the reset button too...) and finally a physical wifi on/off button, once again, PLEASE manufacturers, i need this in my life. now, if we take a closer look at the ethernet ports, that may give an insight on the "empty promises" and the CAT5 cable. the sharp eyed may already catch a glimpse of something, for those who are as blind as me, i have a nice angle shot: yes people, your "300Mbit wireless router" has 100Mbit ports (the two non-connected pairs are for gigabit). now, i havent tested it with this specific device, but on the old one it's replacing... those actually dont even make it past 50Mbit reliably now, time for part two of the mess: the mini-tutorial to set this thing up. you will need offcourse.. a device to press buttons on: i decided to try setting it up wirelessly at first: spoiler, that didnt last very long. connecting to the device is easy, because its a router, and has its own dhcp, so we just punch in the device's default lan address and get to the login page: props to TP-link, they actually improved this over the old device. not that its necessarily "better" but at least its a bit more modern. once logged in with the default admin admin, like a true sysadmin , we are greeted with a quick setup which i cant do anything with, because the device needs something plugged in WAN for that, and i'm lazy. if you're setting it up as your main wireless router, this should cover ll you *need* to change. down the advanced path, i usually start with changing its LAN IP address. now, this is where you have 3 possibilities: - if this is your main, and only router, you can ignore this, default will do. - if you have double NAT, set it to a subnet that is not your other router's subnet. (in case of 190.168.x.x, the first X.) - if you are going to use it as an access point only, make sure its in your other router's subnet, and set to an IP address that is not in use. (depends on your main router's DHCP settings) default TP-Link has this, i opted for the following settings: basicly, i use the 192.168.1.0 subnet, and have 1-10 reserved for network devices, of which this one is the fifth. next up is the wireless settings, and where it all went horribly wrong: get an SSID you'll find in the pile of the neighbor's horribly named networks. set your region to whatever you live in, its a legal thing because standards are not the same everywhere. and finally, set your channel to something that is not clogged up, if you set this to 6, you're most lkely one of the 10 idiots within my range that are battling over that channel... (in fact, i'm the only one *not* on 6...) after pressing save the device refused to let me connect to continue the setup, so this is where i went to wired, as i'm used to. next up is the wireless security: no, that is not my password, dont be an idiot. also, dont use WEP, that makes you an idiot as well. the moment i set up WEP i have about one shady van per month tapping into my wifi. (or trying to...) basic guide to wifi passwords: dont make them short, thats how brute force attacks became a thing, get something long that you can easily remember, but is hard to guess for your neighbors. (so no pet names, not grandma's name 123, etc.) this brings us to one final step, only applicable to those that intend to only use this thing as an access point: disable DHCP, it'll prompt you to reboot, click reboot because turning these off and on *actually* doesnt reboot them. then just install it in place, i dont have fancy shots of this, because its kinda self-explanatory: - plug it into the wall power. - if using it as your main/double NAT router, plug the uplink (what goes towards the modem) in the blue WAN port, plug all else in the LAN ports. - if using it as an access point only, plug EVEYRTHING in the lan ports, and leave the blue WAN port unused. (theres stuff you can do with this, but thats not something i'm gonna bother with here) power it on, and BOOM! you're left waiting for 20 minutes while the device tries to grasp heads or tails what the hell your network is, and in the end it (hopefully) works. brings us to the final bit: the review and conclusion: is this a quality device? no, dont be an idiot, my ethernet cables cost more than this thing. what is it capable of? well... if all you do on wifi is facebook, cat videos, or sending e-mail, and want a cheap device that *just* gets the job done, go for one of these i guess.. how fast is it? excuse me, you must have misspoken, you mean how "slow" is it right? the fastest i've ever gotten out one of these, is before mentioned 50Mbps, the 300Mbps on the box is such a hilareous overestimation that they should put an "april fools" sticker in the box... why did you buy it if it sucks so much? well.. if you have gotten this far missing all the price references: they are DIRT flipping cheap. i can buy a master carton of these for the price of a decent access point. i dont need speed when wireless, nor does anyone else in my house. if you want speed, you should get a cable. all in all, for the price you can find these at, TP-Link honestly did a really good job. their UI is honestly quite good, and universal across all their devices. they *should* support some opensource firmwares, but somehow the devs are unable to get their hands on these to do propper testing. maybe its because no one in their right mind would buy these to put a custom firmware on them, because it wont do any good anyways. the performance is horrible, both LAN and wifi is a joke, but the price is honestly a bit funny as well.. i mean, if i go pick up one of these at the store i pay more for my gas than i pay for the device. its a very low end device, for a very rock bottom price. i've seen replacement antennas go more expensive than this brick. in conclusion: is this device any good? and should you buy it? no, its horrible. But if you're at a budget, or just dont care enough to spend large amounts of money on network devices that deliver high speed... i guess go ahead. for me the wifi is only here for my phone, and so my laptop doesnt *need* to be tethered by an ethernet cable. it does what it needs to do, and does so very cheaply.

Hello i'm Zipzz and im wondering if its possible to put a secondary router in my room so i can use ethernet from it. this being said is it possible to link the second to the first in my parents room without a ethernet connection or could the connect via wifi. im trying to do work for amazon and if i dont have an ethernet connection im screwed. please someone help!!!!

How can I connect the OnHub SRT-AC1900 router to my pc with a cable?

asus rt-ac 5300 vs asus rt-ac 88u vs apple AirPort Extreme Base Station wireless router (please rank the products)

Been searching on google, but cant seem to find the answer that I want. I just want to know EXACTLY what happens when you hard reset a Wireless Router. I have a Netgear cg3000 with Optus (Australia). We got our router when we signed up with the deal so its a normal router not a special one. The only thing is our land line phone is run though it as-well. If i hard reset how do i reconfigure it, do i need any info from optus to get it up and running again. Basically all I need is a detailed step by step procedure from Hard Resetting the router to getting it back to where it currently is. (Internet connectivity and file sharing) Sorry if this is hard to understand.

I am looking for a router that can handle about 30 users (not all active), the users typically look at websites and apps on their phone. the range only needs to be about 30 feet. Price around $250. I was looking at this: http://www.linksys.com/ca/support-product?pid=01t80000003KdJ7AAK Let me know if you need more information, but i believe i covered everything, I am not looking for an access point, I am looking for a wireless router.

For a couple of years now, I've been using my old DIR-655 wireless router as an access point in the basement. I get seemless expansion of my wireless network, plus a expansion of wired connections to 2 PC and a server downstairs. A week or two ago, I lost internet access on the basement PCs. After a bit of troubleshooting, it was clear the D-Link DIR-655 was 'missing' from the network and and causing the connection issues. I also lost the connection to the server from upstairs PCs. However I can still access the server via the DIR-655 from PCs that are in the basement and wired directly. I'm not much for networking, but there are a number of tutorials online that helped me get this set up. They vary slightly, but basically DHCP is disabled, a static unused IP address is assigned and WISH, WPS, port forwarding etc are disabled so they can be handled by the main router. In order to administer the router (connect) I had to use the hard reset. (Tried unplugging, with no change) I have a backup of the configuration file from when this was all working prior. When i load it it seems to be configured correctly initially, in that the password, static IP and all settings are reset. However, within about 1 minute (just enough time to check settings) the browser disconnects and I'm unable to reconnect using default or updated IP address? I've tried to reset the router, then reconfigure from scratch with no luck as well. As above, with only 1 PC plugged in to LAN port after setting up configuration, within about 1 minute of finalizing the configuration I lose the ability to administer the router, and nothing seems to work again...!? any ideas?!? If not, i'd be willing to purchase a dedicated access point > please share recommendations. Needs to function as wireless access point with 3+ ports for extended wired access as well.

Alright so let's start off with my Specs, also this is not my laptop only problem but here we go: Latpop: L502X XPS Laptop (Spoiler=Whole DXDIAG so it's huge!) (Found in Attached .txt file)DxDiag.txt Router: ASUS (RT-AC68U) Firmware: 3.0.0.4.376_3626 (LATEST) ISP: Charter Communications 60 mbps Download 4 mbps Upload. Now I play MineCraft a lot and I can not get myself to stop the lag! I mean okay I understand you can back me up by saying it is the server I am connected to but it is not. (mc.hypixel.net) Issue here is that people with much lower speeds get a better connection than me and I mean sometimes I have a good connection, if no one else is on the internet or anything but then I go to speedtest.net and it's like wow super speedy! Now I need help setting my QoS up or something to allow me to play MineCraft without this lag! I mean I have already prioritized my PC in the Network... How do I open it up so that all MineCraft related connections have the highest bandwidth possible? Here are my QoS Settings: Spoiler alert, they are in pictures! --- --- Now this is where my Confusion Lies: What do I do to make it specifically MineCraft run more internet, much more than I need for anything at all else! I mean like 50mbps download and 2 upload if possible! I don't care much about anything else, I even just built a new PC only for MineCraft! I need the lag fixed! New PC Specs: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/NQDy99 If that is not the Port for MineCraft what do I do? Also specific IP of the server I am connecting to on Multiplayer in MineCraft is mc.hypixel.net which directs to 23.235.255.8:25565 (I believe this is correct Port but why won't it increase speed?) --- User-Defined Priorites: That is all I can give you, but please help me fix this! I can load 1080p videos extremely fast, but when it comes to MineCraft I die on the inside a little... This is what matters to me. Thanks!

so my uncle gave me a netgear n 300 wireless router wnr2200 to replace the netcommwireless nb604n given to me by my isp (tpg australia) and i can get it setup.... the required fields to setup internet on isp router: the required fields to setup internet on the new router: and no matter how hard i try still... no internet.... can anyone help? thankyou

Is there a particular brand or model of wireless router that can give any security benefits over others. I'll probably also flash it with third party firmware such as DD-WRT. Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks, GR412

Which wireless router should I purchase the >>>Linksys EA2700 App-Enabled N600<<< or the >>>TP-Link TL-WDR3600 N600<<< ???

Any suggestion on which router i should buy im looking to spend around $80 USD I was considering buying the Linksys EA2700 App-Enabled N600 router but due to the negative reviews im reconsidering this purchase

I live in the basement of a semi-detached house and would like to share my Internet connection with my neighbor on the other side so his wife can work from home when necessary. She only needs to access her office's online database so bandwidth isn't much of an issue but the connection must be steady and capable of penetrating from my apartment through the dividing wall and both the first and second floors. Budget is an issue but not so much that it should compromise reliability. I understand that throughput and range are, to a degree, inversely related so a large part of the question is how "heavy-duty" a router is necessary to provide a reasonable signal through all the walls and floors. I thought that 2.4 vs. 5GHz allowed for greater range and greater bandwidth respectively but am uncertain and would appreciate clarification. I would also like to know if the two work entirely independently of each other in a dual-band router or is there some sort of synergy or software guidance optimizing the stream which makes the whole greater than the sum of its parts. Thank You.