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Hi there, currently working on my thesis and wanted to get a vertical monitor for better PDF reading. So I went ahead and tested one of my girlfriend's monitors and found out that my setup won't even run a second monitor. This is my setup: PC: Gigabyte Z590I Vision D (comes with Thunderbolt 4) Intel i5-11600k RTX 2080 Super FE Razer Thunderbolt 4 Dock connected to: via USB-C to DP: AOC G2590PX, 1080p and 144Hz via USB-A: Wireless Mouse via USB-A: Keyboard via Ethernet: LAN via USB-C: Audio interface This leaves me with one USB-C port left to produce another video signal. I have a Dell U2515H, 1440p and 60Hz, that I would like to also connect to this TB4 dock but unfortunately I'm not getting a signal. Any idea why or ideas of troubleshooting? I'm posting here because Razer support is garbage and subreddits are pretty dead. Thanks!

We're developing a short full-motion video (FMV) horror game mostly for fun as hobby project. The game blends live-action footage shot on 6K cameras and 3D animated environments, look up "At Dead of Night" to get an idea of the FMV-concept. The game will be available on PC/Mac, iPadOS and iOS (Android port coming later). For the PC/Mac version we're debating if it should be rendered as 4K (3840x2160) or 2K (2560x1440). It'll be rendered at 60 FPS regardless. I'm not gonna get too deep into the weeds about the project here, I just want to get a general idea about: Would you prefer a more computational intensive 4K version with a bigger download size, or a smaller and lighter 2K version?

Hi! I wanted to ask for some clarification after today's video about the awesome CM3588. Linus mentioned that it would be possible to use the CM3588 for Plex with a network switch attached it and a more powerful computer actually running the Plex server application. I wanted to make sure I was understanding what he meant by that. Would all that would be required to do this be setting up the CM3588 as instructed in the start of the video and then making folder on the NAS for the Plex app to identify? Would it be like adding a new folder for Plex to look for files? Thank you for time!

Hey everybody, on my Lenovo Yoga Pro 7, there is some kind of content "optimization" going on which changes the contrast levels inside VLC, the windows video player and also web content based on input from the facial recognition sensors. So basically, when I watch a video in VLC or another player, contrast is modified depending on the brightness of my environment. Mostly, that means way too much contrast and only when I put my hand over the sensors around the webcam, the contrast goes down to a level that I think is appropriate. This effects the entire window of VLC, so also the playback controls, but in my browser I think it only effects video and photo content. Stuff like my desktop background is also not effected as far as I can tell. Now I just can`t figure out on what level this is happening. I guess it must be a setting in Windows 11, or some Lenovo software, but everything I can find in the windows settings regarding automatic brightness etc. is turned off and I also can´t find a setting inside Lenovo Vantage that makes a difference. Thanks for your help and sorry if this is really easy to fix, maybe I just don´t know what to google but I can´t seem to find anything on this. My Laptop: Lenovo Yoga Pro 7 14IRH8 13th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-13700H 2.40 GHz NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4050, 6gb Windows 11 Home 23H2

I have some old family videos on miniDV tapes. Since it's a digital format, it should be possible to get a 1:1 copy of the bits on the tapes. I'm trying to find a hardware/software combo to achieve that. Equipment available to me: • Camcorder the miniDVs were recorded on, with 4-pin FireWire DV output. • Custom-built PC running Ubuntu 23.10 • MacBook Air M1 running macOS 14.0 Sonoma • Power Mac G5 with 6-pin and 8-pin FireWire ports, running Mac OS X v10.5 Leopard What's my best option for capturing a 1:1 copy of the bits on the tape?? • Modern PC with OBS (needs FireWire —> USB cable) • Modern PC with dvgrab (needs FireWire —> USB cable) • MacBook Air M1 with OBS (needs FireWire —> Thunderbolt cable) • Power Mac G5 with Final Cut/iMovie (FireWire native)

So what happened was, I couldn’t find the battery charger for my camera and ended up with an hour 15min interview on an iPhone 12 Pro Max. The video is 9.35 GB and no matter what I try the transfer either times out or arrives at a much much lower video quality when attempting to move to my Windows PC for editing. I am able to take 5-10 min sections of the video and move them but not the full thing. Does anyone know a fix for this or am I going to have to cut up the video on the phone and put it back together on the PC?

My first time here. I have been looking around to see if there any way that i can be done. I find software that will remove that annoy logo on the screen of the video, but, is there any software that will remove the watermark from the video and not leave that annoy blur behind where the icon was.

I'm looking for camera and lens recommendations general school use. Example uses would be for recording plays or events, in a variety of lighting conditions, and often from a distance away, sometimes up to 100 feet. Anything from a stage play to graduation ceremonies, to student video projects. It would also need to be usable for livestreams, such as the aforementioned graduation ceremonies. The resulting footage needs to be good enough to be edited later. I don't have a set budget, I'm looking for suggestions before formally making a proposal. 4k would be great, anything over is probably excessive. A long battery life or external power source would also be great. Recommendations for a tripod that is sturdy and allows smooth camera movement would also be great.

Hello everyone. Recently I've noticed a green bar appearing on top of videos whenever I'm on youtube, it only started a few days ago. My assumption is that my 'monitor' (which is a 1080p tv at 32") is just faulty overall. Im running a Ryzen 7 5700G and no discrete GPU, I'm connected through the HDMI port. It will appear in one video, disappear for the next 4~6, and then reappear again. Any ideas?

I have been working for this church for a few months now and am in charge of their AV. All of a sudden our power amplifier Crown CDI Drivecore 4 | 300 has given me the errors of "ch2 DCLE Detected" and "High Voltage Rail Warning" and also cut the audio to the speakers throughout the building. No matter how much research I do I cant find a fix for them. I have read every article and read the manual. I have reseated all of my connections and even completely unplugged channel 2 input and output but am still getting the same results. I don't know what to do but this has to be ready by tomorrow.

These are photos from a while ago(they go in order from bottom to top, I had videos which wouldn't upload for at all), where the issue would happen when I don't use the monitor for an extended period of time. if I swapped ports and plugged/unplugged cables it would eventually work normally, but the issue persists and now it got worse. Now, the flickering is happening on the bottom half of the screen and will slowly dissipates and then suddenly the screen will go black. I tried with three different HDMI cables on both HDMI ports. I also tried unplugging and plugging back in the power cable multiple times as well as HDMI cables and I also bought a DP to HDMI cable to try it, but the cable didn't work at all. Can I fix it somehow, or do I just bin it and buy a new Monitor?? Thanks for the help upfront

I'm having this exact same issue: Video profiles do absolutely nothing in firefox, edge and vlc, but do work in chrome, however in the latter if i switch to full screen mode the video goes back to default despite the profiles still being selected in radeon software. I'm running driver version 20.8.1 with a rx 580, the motherboard is a msi gaming plus max and cpu is a ryzen 2600x, windows 10 pro 20.04. I have tried using the flags "media.hardware-video-decoding.enabled" set to true in about:config, i have tried with the h264ify extension to force firefox to use h264 on youtube, but the radeon video profiles simply refuse to work on firefox, edge (for whatever reason it doesn't work on edge for even though they do work in the video i added) and vlc, but it does work on chrome if i don't go to full screen mode and works perfectly on mpc-hc. Pls help.

I'm looking for an external SSD to connect to my iPhone that I can directly record 4K video to. I know Sabrent makes an external SSD enclosure with a USB output where you can install your own M.2 SSD, but I've also looked at USB-C flash drives and external USB-C SSDs. Any recommendations?

I have been listening to WAN show for more than an year now on Spotify exclusively and never had any issues on the audio or the video podcast. For the past two podcasts now, I haven't been able to see the video podcast. Any suggestions on what I can do for this issue? Thanks

Hi I have gtx 1650 and amd ryzen 5 3600x@4.4Ghz overclock and I tried to upscale 9 hours of anime with topaz video enhance ai but it would take 50 hours. I read that more vram will help the time so I was thinking to buy R7 240 4GB. Will that help?

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Hello I'm 41 years old in in school for software Developer, also I'm a spinal cord injury patient I'm in bed almost 24 hours a day I don't know really how much longer I have but I love playing pc games that is what makes me happy I bought a dell optiplex 3020 gaming pc for 160 it has an Intel core i5 at 3.30 ghz and 16 gb of ddr3 ram it also came with a Nividia graphic card a 1030t. What is the best performance settings to get these lines from when I move my characters off the screen to make it more smoother game play I can't really afford anything right now but this is what I love to do please help

Hello everyone! This guide will focus on optimising PotPlayer for best video quality. For those who're not yet familiar with PotPlayer, it's similar to MPC-HC or VLC players, but offers a simpler design and UI with powerful post processing tools that make videos look cleaner, sharper and richer in colour. That is my personal opinion, I've only done a comparison between it and the VLC player so I am biased in this regard. This guide has 3 sections. First one focuses on settings everyone should enable, regardless on the power of their system, since they're not very resource intensive. Second section focuses on settings you can enable if you have a strong system (specially on the GPU side) and the third section focuses on settings for lower tier systems. I have a desktop setup with i7-6700k@4.7ghz and GTX1070 with my laptop running i7-4710HQ and GTX860M. Those are my reference points for a high end and low end system. GPUs are the most important here, since we'll be focusing on utilising them for video upscaling, as well as running multiple post processing filters with them. Disclaimer: Settings I will show you and work best for me will stress your system (particularly GPU) - this is not a battery friendly way to watch videos. With that said, lets get right into it. Section 1 When you install a 64bit PotPlayer version (which you can do here) make sure to download all addons in the installation process. After you install it, make sure to set Nvidia as its primary graphics processor if you're running it on laptop, since it defaults to integrated graphics. (If you don't know how to do that, click here) Open PotPlayer and click on three horizontal bars in the top left corner. After menu opens, click on preferences. 1. On the left side click on "playback" and under "process priority" on the right side of the window select "high" instead of "Above normal" - if you want to allocate more resources to playback. I didn't, and it's fine. 2. Click on the plus icon next to the "Filter control" on the left side of the window and select "Video decoder", as the option column expands. Click on "Built-in Video Codec/DXVA Settings" in the mid bottom of the window and check boxes as in the picture (Under DXVA2 copy-back settings select Your external GPU) press okay and apply settings. This settings makes your GPU render all video. 3. Under "Audio Decoder" tab go to "Built-in Audio Codec/Pass-through Settings" and mimic what I've done (this is where you need those addons you downloaded during PotPlayer installation) After you're done, click okay and apply settings. 4. Click on "Video" on the left side of the window and under "Video Renderer" select "Madashi Video Renderer" or MadVR, as I'll be referring to it (You'll have to select it again once you leave preferences by clicking on "show main menu" button top left > video > video renderer > Madashi Video Renderer). Below under "Fullscreen exclusive mode" select disable, if not already selected. Under "Deinterlacing" tab on the top select "use hardware deinterlacing" under the Deinterlacing Method. Under "Effects" tab on the top far right (you might have to click on the arrows to move the tabs) check the "Deblock" box (and leave the slider at 256) and "deband" box on the bottom. Apply settings. 5. Click on "Audio" on the left side of the window and change settings as shown in this screenshot. Apply settings. (You don't have to do this, my headphones are compatible with 24bit 96khz sample rate) Section 2 We're now going to change a couple of settings in MadVR settings. I'll first do the "high end" config and "lower end" after that, but you can always mix them together to find what suits you best. I'll tell you as I go along - what worked for me and the performance hit it has, so you'll be able to figure out if you want to do anything differently. Under "Video" tab, press on 3 dots right of the MadVR option and press "Edit Settings". New window will pop up. We'll first change some options that stay unchanged between the high and lower end config. Do as shown in screenshots. I hope these screenshots make it easy for you to coordinate yourself in settings. They can be very frustrating to navigate until you're not used to them. Now for the part where configs start to differ. These are screenshots for a config with similar power to my desktop config (i7-6700k+GTX1070). Troubleshooting for higher end config: If you're dropping frames, decrease the number of neurons under "chroma upscaling" to 64. If you still drop frames, decrease number of neurons under "image upscaling" > algorithm quality to 32. If you're still dropping frames, change upscaling method under "image upscaling" from NNEDI3 to Lanczos and configure it the same in the screenshot for image downscaling. Anything easier to run than that already falls into "lower end" config imo. Section 3 These settings can be used on almost all laptops with any sort of discrete GPU. I'll start by showing you the settings I have on my laptop (i7-4710HQ+GTX860M). After that, I'll present you with some alternatives that are easier to run but also produce worse results. 4 At this point, everything should run smoothly, but if not: Decrease number of neurons under "chroma upscaling" to 32. If you experience dropped frames still, switch from NNEDI3 pixel shader code to Lanczos and configure it the same as shown in screenshot for "image upscaling". If that lags as well, change "image upscaling" from Lanczos to DXVA2. Even the weakest systems should run this smoothly. The load on the system is same as VLC player at that point. I hope I made everything understandable. After hours of digging through this guy's SITE , I tried my best to pick up on the important stuff and present it as simply as possible. I'm open for questions - I can help you out if you have any problems during the optimisation process. Thank you for reading. Additional notes: I am in no way an expert on this topic nor do I fully understand the program. I kept this simple (among other things) for my sanity as well, since there are so many options you can choose from with minimal differences it's really difficult to decide and understand what works together best and what doesn't. End result is very good in my opinion - better colour science, sharper, cleaner video with less artifacts and noise.

I was recording a video and suddenly my computer turned off, which interrupted the recording and the file got corrupted. How can I fix it, at least so that I can watch part of the recording? I recorded the video format in MP4 using OBS. It shows that the movie takes up 14 GB, so it's a lot and something has definitely been saved. Used video repair programs Tenorshare 4ddig and AnyMP4 video repair.

I've had my Asus vg27aql1a for almost 2 years and I've noticed the past few months this has been happening (video attached). I dont really know when this started happening or if this always has happened but is there a way I can fix this? This is global, not just this specific instance in the game. 20231023_013457.mp4

I am in need of a video card as my acient one is dieing and crashing my computer lot these days. I enjoy watching old 90's and 00's TV shows on computer. Which company card, RTX or RX, I should get for that purpose and would improve the video native quality better?

I've been around theater set-ups my entire life (dad was an A/V nerd before it was cool) and one thing I've always hated was the step of setting the TV input to the receiver, then changing the receiver input to whatever device I'd like to use. My day-one (and day-540) setup with my Samsung TV has been utilizing the built-in input interface to switch between my consoles, and I'll be honest... it's REALLY nice having it cleanly integrated -- labeling my consoles as "PS4, PS5, etc", but this means I've had my Nintendo Switch and Xbox collecting dust for two years. For context, I went with a Sonos Arc + LR Ones + Sub for my surround system, rather than getting an AV receiver and some in-wall speakers. I know the standard option here would be to get an HDMI switch, but that sends me back to adding an extra step (select switch > select input device on switch). I've been spoiled using the single interface for everything, but I'm willing to spend more if there's a way to natively extend this. I should probably also note, my Samsung TV is actually a Samsung The Premiere projector, so I only have 3 HDMI in ports to work with and one goes to the Arc. My end goal here is really to figure out a wireless solution to transmit and receive this solution to all my TVs in the house via a matrix configuration with HDMI / USB transmitters + Bluetooth dongles and to use any console on any TV, anywhere.

ERB is my favorite YouTube channel of all time. I truly love what they do. However, they barely release rap battles any more. They make videos every week on their second channel (ERB2) where they do matchup reactions, and they recently released a paid masterclass in writing lyrics. But… they literally do everything besides releasing new battles - what is what I’m here for. Why do matchup reactions when we barely even get rap battles? Any other ERB fans on this forum, thoughts? Am I wrong here?

Hi there, I built my new machine yesterday with the MSI Mag Z790 Tomahawk. It has an i7-13700k, RTX 3080TI and 32GB of Corsair Vengeance DDR5 RAM. The system seems to boot normally, the Debug LEDS go on and off, and stay at green (no boot device) if the windows install stick is not plugged in and go off completely if plugged in. The only problem is I do not get video output whatsoever. I took out the GPU, plugged both HDMI and DisplayPort directly into the board, no change. I reset the BIOS (with the Button and the CMOS battery), flashed the Bios with the latest version, switched out the RAM and tried different keyboards, cables and monitors. Does anybody have a solution to this or at least a similar issue, I do not know what to do anymore besides returning the board.

As anyone found any native 8K videos on YouTube? So many videos claim that they’re 8K, but are they? I mean, I’m on mobile, but have you found any native 8K? Maybe 8K 60FPS? What I mean by native 8K, is that 8K, that is actually 8K, not on a 1080p screen. Anyone have an 8K TV that you have watched 8K videos? Also, on like 1080p screens, can you go above 4K, and it actually look 4K, not just looked scaled up?