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Found 253 results

  1. Been thinking of upgrading my rig. What do you guys think, or should I save my money for a Ryzen build? The micro center near me seems to get open box deals pretty regularly.
  2. So, I found a Craigslist listing in my area for a gaming PC. the specs that where given in the listing are a Cybertron Pc Case, 750w ATX power supply, 16gb ram, 1tb HDD, 6core AMD fx 6350 CPU, Asus m5a78l-m motherboard, r7 360 2gb ddr5. I don't know what kind of preformance I should expect, or what I should watch out for when buying used. I need help ASAP, thanks!
  3. Hi Guys, Im planning on going to Toronto in a month. Im from Colombia, im willing to buy 3 gtx 750ti, 1 gtx 950 and i have 200CAD for a graphics card. I have checked kijiji and found i can get a gtx 750ti for around $50CAD, gtx 950 for $70CAD and a gtx 970 for around $180CAD. Any advice on where to buy? What should i check for in a used graphics card when i dont have a build to try it? Any ideas on a better graphics card for $200CAD? Excuse my bad english, thanks in advance!
  4. I need to calibrate my displays and wanted to do it on the cheap, so I'm in the market for a used calibration tool. The current one I'm looking at is a Spyder 4 Pro for about $70. Is it worth that much? Does it have any advantages of the Colormunki Smile, which is $70 new? Or the Datacolor Spyder 5 Express, which is $100 new? Keep in mind that I don't plan to use the allegedly terrible bundled software, but DisplayCal, as it's reported by pretty much every user to be far more accurate. Regards, Aereldor.
  5. I ran across an intreagueing Craigslist post on Monday. Three used Laptops in unknown condition. No chargers and no hard drives but 30$. After looking at the rather grainy photos, I came to the conclusion that I was monstly interested in the Asus laptop, as it seemed to have a core i badge (I could tell from the gold fold on the badge) and Radeon graphics (red badge). After asking if I could just bu the one, he said just take them all for 10$! So all told I ended up with three laptops for 10$. The Dell and the Sony are older and nothing to write home about, but the Asus looks promising. It turns out to have a core i5 mobile prosesor (probably first gen maybe 520m?) and ATI HD 5470 graphics and to top it all off a blue ray drive. I ordered a charger and new battery off Amazon and I will update you guys on whether or not it ends up working. Even if it dosen't work, I'm only out 10$ (USD) so no big deal. Let me know what you guys think of my pick up.
  6. For who knows what reason, Windows 10 decided to make a 100GB partition from my 1TB hard drive. Nothing is on it but the now empty partition is BEFORE the rest of the data on my drive. I know that I can extend a partition to leave the whole drive as 1 location, but through disk management that would mean extending the empty data using the rest of the hard drive that has data on it. Will this effectively wipe the drive? I don't want to mess with all the programs / games / personal data that's on it. Virtually everything besides the OS. Here is an image of what I'm dealing with and why I'm concerned (Deleted the partition before taking the screen shot so it's just unallocated. It was set to F: by Windows before hand) [ Screenshot of Disk Management ] I know I could also use a 3rd party disk management tool to move the partitions but from experience that can take an whole day to do. Thanks for looking and any information you can provide.
  7. Hello reader, I need advice. I was going to buy an RX 580 (when it's actually available) and a Freesync monitor because i wanted to try it out and my current graphics card is dying. I was settled for a 300€ RX 580 and a 150€ Freesync monitor, when I saw a used GTX 980 for 180€. Now i got unsure, should i stick to my Freesync plan or should i buy a cheaper and possibly better 980, though without any form of adaptive refreshrate technology. Can someone help me out? Thanks in advance.
  8. Hi, I am looking to get a rugged/tough laptop for a trip I am doing in the summer; mainly to backup the photos and videos I will be taking. Therefore it just needs to run Windows or Linux and be able to transfer files. I am on a very tight budget of £100 ($130USD) so I am looking at used laptops. I am also interested in people's experiences with 'rugged' laptops. If there is a better solution feel free to suggest it. Thank you for the help!
  9. ****IMPORTANT CHANGE**** **Google Wallet has changed now. Paypal is now the only safe way to pay online. DO NOT use anything else.** Hello, To start off, I am a very experienced buyer/seller on forums as well as Amazon and Ebay. I've been doing this for over 4 years and recently, I've gotten a lot of questions on how it works because most people here are new to trading on forums. Buying and selling on forums can be extremely safe if done right. I have never been scammed or lost money due to a transaction with someone on a forum. FOR BUYERS First thing you should do when you see an item you might be interested in buying is check their reputation and feedback for past trades. The primary way to do this is through heatware. This is a website where sellers and buyers leave feedback for each other after a transaction is completed. Mine is at: http://www.heatware.com/eval.php?id=95302 I currently have +30 positive and +1 neutral. Unfortunately I got the neutral because the buyer wouldn't tell me about the problem and just gave me the neutral. Communication is very important. Contact the other party if there is something wrong with the transaction. Not every transaction gets feedback so the seller likely has more trades then actual feedback. I only confirm heatware when the buyer asks for it so only about 10% of my transactions are actually confirmed on Heatware. Other forums might have their own feedback system as well. I know OCN does and they might provide that feedback. EBAY FEEDBACK MEANS NOTHING Ebay gives feedback points very easily and ebay is very strict on their sellers so any feedback they earned is pretty much forced. Not to say there aren't good sellers on ebay but it doesn't hold much value on forums. If your seller has positive reviews then you are very likely to not be scammed. However, there is still a chance they will so proceed with caution still. If the seller is new and has no reviews then it is still fine to go ahead but only use payment options that provide protection. I will usually only use Paypal for sellers without any feedback. The next step is to contact the seller for details or negotiate if you think the price is high. Not all sellers will negotiate prices. Almost all of my prices are firm. I may move $10 or $20 depending on the value of the item and how far I have to ship it but I usually put my lowest price in the ad. Do your best to not lowball. It is offensive to lowball sellers. Also ask for more pictures if the picture in the ad is bad or you want to see something specific. IF THE SELLER OR BUYER ASKS FOR ID OR PASSPORT OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT, WALK AWAY. There is ZERO reason for anyone to ask for this. This can be a potential identity theft situation. All they should ask for is email and addresses. If they are shipping Fedex they may ask for a phone number as well because Fedex requires it. After that, you will pay for the item. There are two payment options that I trust and will use and that is Paypal and Google Wallet. I do not like Paypal as a company but they are still the best option to use. I use Google Wallet for established traders that I trust. Google Wallet protection is a bit spotty so only use it for people that have previous trades. Google Wallet is no longer a recommended payment method. Paypal should be the only method used. NEVER USE PAYMENT OPTIONS THAT DO NOT GIVE PROTECTION SUCH AS PAYPAL FRIENDS AND FAMILY (OTHERWISE KNOWN AS PAYPAL GIFT), BITCOIN OR OTHER CRYTOCURRENTCY, OR BANK TRANSFERS/CHECKS. No matter what their reputation is, there is still a chance they will scam you. The only exception to this rule is that I will use cash for local transactions that you meet in person. Have that person test the item if possible though. Sometimes it is not possible but they can still be legit and typically, they are. The seller should provide tracking soon after payment or shipment depending on if you buy a label online or buy it at the post office. If you ask the seller for tracking information and he does not provide tracking, then something may be wrong with the transaction. Sometimes they just forget to forward the number to you but if they say there is no tracking for the package, then they are lying. Pretty much all relevant mailing methods have tracking numbers these days. The only exceptions are unregistered international mail and domestic first class letters (plain white envelope with a postage stamp). It is very rare for someone to be using those methods for something bought online on a forum though. 99% of the time, this will end as a positive transaction with the seller getting their money and the buyer getting the item they want. In the case that they don't however, report it to Paypal or Google Wallet and they will investigate and return your money if it is indeed a scam. IF THEY SHIPPED SOMETHING TO YOU THAT WAS NOT WHAT YOU ORDERED ON PURPOSE TO SCAM YOU, THAT IS MAIL FRAUD WHICH IS A FELONY. Report them to the US Postal Inspection Service by filling out the form here: http://ehome.uspis.gov/fcsexternal/default.aspx There are likely similar services with postal services from other countries but I am not familiar with them specifically. For Sellers The first thing to do when selling is to take pictures of your item and figure out pricing. Most places require the piece of paper with your username and the date on it in the picture. This is called the "proof of ownership" on here and "timestamps" over at hardwareswap. The best way to know pricing is to look at other used listing on forums and take the average price. Sometimes that is not possible though which then I will look at ebay and Amazon used prices and take off anywhere from 5-20% depending on the type of item and it's price. Typically it's closer to 10% though. And obviously the lower the price, the faster it will sell. If you are in desperate need for cash, you may need to sell for lower than market price. Shipping will typically be included in the price as well and you will be expected to pay for shipping. You may charge for shipping separately but be sure to state this clearly. If not, people will assume your shipping is included in the price. For example, you can say this item you are selling for has a price of $80 + shipping costs. This will tell the buyer that the $80 price does not include shipping costs. On the other hand, if you say the price is $80 shipped, that means shipping costs is included in the $80. Also, you may not ask for any fees associated with payment services like Paypal. That is against most forum's rules since it is against Paypal's ToS. You should instead raise the price of the item to account for this. So if you want to net $50 for an item, you can add $10 to account for shipping and another $2 for fees. So you will sell this item for $62 shipped. How much you add for shipping and fees of course depends on what item you are selling and how much it is worth. You may not be able to get as much as you want though since there is a limit to how much people want to pay. However, if they are asking like 60% off new prices for current hardware, then they are probably lowballing you. I usually walk away from those deals because I can get more than that pretty much anywhere else. That is your choice though. Once you have your photos and know your pricing, create a new ad and wait for buyers to contact you. Once you have a buyer and have agreed upon a price, get their email and send either a payment request through Google Wallet or an invoice through Paypal. Be specific on what they are paying for and the condition of the items. I usually also put my return policy on the invoice. Once payment has cleared, the next thing to do would be to ship the item. I have a stock of boxes and packaging supplies from things I've bought so I get those for free. If you do need to buy some, you can get a huge roll of bubble wrap for pretty cheap off of Amazon. I buy my tape from Sam's Club for $15 for a 6pack of Scotch/3M packaging tape. USPS will provide free boxes that you can order off of their website as well. They typically take a week or two from the order date to get to you. Please only use these boxes for the service they are mean't for. Abuse will lead them to take the service away and is also illegal. Regional rate boxes are the best value and I use them for most of my packages. The Regional rate A will charge 2 lbs as long as it fits so anything over 2 lbs can be shipped cheaper using this. The side loading version can fit most gpus without it's box and some motherboards as well as other items. For things that go a long distance, I usually use flat rate boxes but that is rare since flat rate is typically a rip off. Shipping by the pound in a plain box is usually the cheapest if regional rate does not work. For large packages, Fedex might be cheaper. Create an account on their since their price without an account is actually about 25% more expensive. It doesn't cost anything to create an account. You won't get a quote with the discount price without an account. I usually use my Google Wallet card for that though because Fedex has a habit of charging you a higher price weeks after you shipped the thing. Don't know why they do that but to counter it, I use a card that will be declined if there is no money on it. They will ship you an invoice and all you need to do is call Fedex and tell them you got an invoice for something you have already paid for and they will cancel it. Packing is also very easy. Shipping items in the original item box is the safest. Put the item in the box and put that into a shipping box and fill the rest of the space in the box with packaging material like more bubble wrap, packing peanuts, air packets, or paper. If you do not have the original box, ship the item in an antistatic bag (or a brown paper bag if you do not have an antistatic bag) and wrap it in bubble wrap. Then put it in a shipping box like you would if you had the original box. Fill up the rest of the shipping box and tape it shut. BUY SHIPPING LABELS ONLINE Buying postage at the post office or shipping center is more expensive and offers ZERO advantages. Labels can be purchased directly from the shipper's website like USPS.com or Fedex.com or through other services like Paypal or Stamps.com. **January 17th update** USPS prices went up as of January 17th, 2016. It is still the cheapest way to ship most of the time, however, buying labels at USPS.com is no longer cheaper than at the post office. The only way now to get cheap labels without paying for a subscription like stamps.com is through paypal. You can use www.paypal.com/shipnow or their multi-order shipping tool to buy shipping labels without a transaction through Paypal. You may choose to buy insurance and signature confirmation but if you do not, YOU are taking the risk and not the buyer. You need to decide if you are willing to spend the extra money for these services and if you are willing to take the risk of losing the item due to the package being lost or destroyed in transit. Tape the label onto the package and drop it off or arrange for pick-up. Follow up with the buyer after they have received the package. You can then exchange feedback if you would like to. Hopefully, your buyer will be happy with the item and the transaction will be positive. If there is an issue, such as the buyer claiming the card doesn't work or something like that, give them a label to ship it back and test the item once you get it. If it is truly dead, give the buyer a full refund including shipping fees. If it is not, refund them their payment except the shipping fees so that you break even and then try to find another buyer. This whole process should be recorded on video as evidence in case a paypal dispute is opened. I may have missed something but I believe that I was pretty thorough. Feel free to ask questions here and I will edit the original post if I remember something I missed. Edit: Fixed some bad wording.
  10. So yesterday I found a fully working i5 2400 PC sitting in an e-waste pile and I started thinking about all of the perfectly working PC's that go to recycling centers where they are often just sent overseas or trashed, all because large companies upgrade their PCs every 3-4 years. Anyways, I started thinking, what if someone were to buy those computers off of companies that would gladly get rid of them (for around $10-50 per PC depending on the specs) and bulk order a ton of GTX 1050s/RX 460s and sell budget gaming PCs for console prices at a trustworthy store with a warranty for those that don't want to build a PC themselves or don't want to take the risk or buying used from Craigslist. Not saying its entirely original, and I know there are stores like Free Geek, but what is your take on this? I see it as a win-win-win: Profitable for companies, profitable for the middleman who fixes up the PCs (reinstalling Windows and installing new graphics card/cleaning out dust, etc.), and cheap gaming PCs for the buyer (much cheaper than Alienware and other prebuilts).
  11. I found a used pc online in my area and i was wondering if it was worth the price here are the specs CPU i5 4690k MSI Z87-G41 PC MATE Motherboard 16 gb pny ddr3 ram 5 corsair fans 600 watt psu and a optical drive no gpu no hardrive priced at $270 i have a hard drive with win 10 and a 750 ti gpu i can use for the time being
  12. Acer Predator 17 (G9-792-79VJ) and cannot find what is a fair price to sell it. It has some slight use on the "wasd" keys but otherwise it is in good condition. What is a fair price for resale? $1700? $1500? Even less? Thank you.
  13. Realistically speaking, how much could I get? Is asking for $130 (CAD) too much/little?
  14. Is it worth it to upgrade a i3 3240 to a i5 2500 for $45 with 3 months of warranty. I'm a college student and I don't work so I don't have a lot of money. I appreciate the help
  15. Just made a hefty upgrade from this: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/GKfR8K To this: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/RQXdWX I have no need for my old computer, and am planning on selling it on Kijiji/Craigslist. The GPU/CPU has never been overclocked before, so I'm pretty sure that adds value to it. I'm going to be selling it as a "mid-range gaming PC", but I'm not sure if it can still be called that since it's sporting a 3770K. Anyway, if you guys could tell me what you think I'd be able to sell this computer for, let me know. <3 :}
  16. Hello, I have recently noticed that I have significantly less hard drive space available on my 2 TB exFAT hard drive than I did just recently. Before, Windows said that I was using about 430 GB of space. After downloading a couple of new games, I have noticed that the amount of used space has increased significantly. It now says that I have used 830 GB of space. I know for a fact that the games I downloaded are not 300 GB. Also, selecting everything on the drive and viewing properties for it reveals that I have only used about 450 GB of space, and this is accounting for extra allocation space used by the filesystem. Does anyone have an explanation for this? Any way to get 300 GB back, or have they been sacrificed to the storage gods? Oh and there's a screenshot, in case you wanted to view that.
  17. Hello there LTT forum-ers, Hi from Malaysia Just a quick reminder of where I am from, in case this bit of context might help gauge the local pricing and what-not. After so many years only being part of the comments on YT, I am quite happy to say my first post here will be for my first ever gaming PC. It's quite safe to say I have spent the better half of a year trying to know the bleeding edge of tech (which is primarily covered by Linus and crew), but I am a simple man and really enjoy trying to find a budget PC (and watch the likes of TechYesCity, TechDeals, and HardwareUnboxed for my daily dose of price to performance. There are many others too including Gamers Nexus, Tech of Tomorrow, and of course the trinity: Jay, Kyle and Paul) (also, first post here; hope it's cool to give other tech tubers a shout-out; would love to hear from other you guys watch too!) Watch as many channels as I may though, it's always a sweaty, scary feeling when I actually am ready to shell out what my own money.. However, there's one big caveat: It's basically just a used build. Reason is I am a student, and money is tight but so is my ability to justify a very expensive PC (if I am able to save them after skipping three meals in a day.. haha jokes) is basically zero in the short term. Maybe 3 years down the line only am I able to get myself a real new rig to myself). So after all the faff, here's the build I'm looking to buy, for an equivalent of 380 USD: Processor: i7-3770K with stock cooler Motherboard from Asus: P8Z77-V PRO (This mobo, I honestly quite like. I have a 5.1 speaker which simply would not work properly on my current Laptop, and I would like that to change) GPU: a GTX 660Ti RAM: 4 GB of 1600Mhz DDR3 from Corsair And a 650W GX PSU from CM OS and Storage is also included. What do you guys think? I have a 1080p monitor, and would like to get a solid 60fps for titles like Total War : Shogun 2 and CIV 6. Somewhere close to there will be fine for Triple-A titles. I also play E-sports games, but that shouldn't be a problem, right? I am thinking of buying a HD 7970 (3gb or 2gb GDDR5), which I can get here in Malaysia for about 105 USD and swapping the cards out. So for three years of gaming, do you think this rig will hold up? (Also, no more warranty from the supplier, except for RAM maybe.) Oh and one more thing: The current laptop I am using has an i7-4810MQ @ 2.1Ghz and a GTX 870M. It's about 3 years old, come this August.
  18. So I have been using a second hand Corsair H80i I bought off Gumtree for about 2 - 3 months now, and it has been working perfectly with no issues. However, I recently saw a good deal for a H100i and nabbed it for £35 - the same price I paid for my H80i. I got it as I thought I could sell my H80i for a decent price fairly easily. So, my question is how safe are used AIO liquid coolers, how likely are they to fail or leak in some way? This H80i, as I said, has seen no problems, however one example of a second hand AIO is not enough data to come to a decent conclusion, so I would like to hear some of your opinions on this matter.
  19. Either than ebay, what sites are good to buy used parts?
  20. Hello, I'm interested in finding a used GPU that would pair nicely with an i5-2400 (i3-6100 performance, but with 4 cores) for around $100. By pairing nicely, I mean not a huge bottleneck but not underpowered. I'll mainly be using the card for gaming on some semi-taxing games at 1080p, preferably above 60fps on high/ultra. Thanks for your suggestions!
  21. Hello, For context: My soul has been dead for a while and have finaly came back to Lord Gaben's light (I started gaming on an xbox 360) I just brought an used PC, and it probably coud use of some upgrades and i would like to know wich one is the priority in your opinion. ( Better Performance / Cost being the objective) Here are the Specs: Core 2 Quad Q8200 @ 2.33GHz 7x333 Stock Intel Cooler Asus P5KPL-AM Motherboard 4GBs of RAM (2x2GB @ 800MHz) XFX Radeon HD4830 512MB of VRAM (how times have changed) Basic Case S#!+tastic 500W PSU It was the best deal i could find where i live (Brazil), 120 USD equivalent. I Intend on playing not so demanding titles such as TF2, L4D2, CS:GO, Rocket League and such. Thanks in advance.
  22. I need to gauge how around how much I'll need out of pocket. So my question is, what's a fair price for: i5-4460 ASRock Z97 Extreme4 Corsair Vengeance C70 case 12GB DDR3 memory (yes I know my sig says 16 but I would only be selling 12) Maybe a Hyper 212, can't decide if I want to keep that or not All used but in basically new condition, fully functional. Also, since it's multiple compatible parts but not quite a complete system, if I were to list it somewhere like Craigslist to sell should I do the whole thing or each part individually?
  23. What should the state of the ssd's health be in when considering buying used ssd? Like how many GBs written / read? Or power on hours / power on counts? Thanks in advance.
  24. Hello everyone and thanks if you help! Im not sure if i should buy a used pc or build my own, my budget is 750 cad (with taxes, shipping, and os) Used pc: FX-8320E, GTX 970, 2tb hard drive, 32 gigs of ram, win 10, and he isn't sure if it has a 250gb or 500gb ssd, it's all that for 750, or maybe build one with worse part but upgrade eventually. I will be using it for graphic design and also gaming (not too much gaming tough) HELP!
  25. Hello everyone, This is my first post here at the forum and I am currently looking for a cheap used computer. I found this PC with 2 x 240 GB SSD, Intel i5 4460 with 32 gb of ddr3 ram and a gtx 760 (may upgrade) and it also includes a 27" Monitor from Samsung and everything costs 500 bucks. Is it worth it or not? Please motivate as I want to make a good deal. If I would upgrade the graphics card, I found this used 780 Ti for 120$ and wanted to ask if that is a good deal aswell? Thanks in advance, Fhroozt.