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Hello, I am looking for a way to get USB3 over 20m (My PC is in another room across the hallway and I have the need for USB3 in the room where my monitors are) without chaining USB Hub's (as it is done for example in active USB cables as I had to find out sadly) I tried Thunderbolt with the corning cable with my ASUS ProArt Z690-Creator, but its just not working nearly reliable enough. I also tried 20m active cables, but best I found was one with 4 hubs chained in it, which limits me to 7/8 Usb Ports on the other end at best, 3 at worst. (I checked it with USB Device tree viewer) Thanks in advance.

Hello to all who read the forum! I am currently building a pc and right now I am in the process of figuring out if I have enough USB ports on my motherboard. The HYTE Y60 uses 2 USB_3 (3.2 Gen 1) and my Lian Li Cooler uses 2 but I think it will only be 1 with the Lian Li Hub idk Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Minecraft, Fortnite, Rocket League PC Part List: Component Selection CPU AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor CPU Cooler Lian Li Galahad II Trinity SL-INF 61.3 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler Motherboard Asus ROG STRIX B550-A GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard Memory Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory Memory Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory Add Additional Memory Storage Samsung 980 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive Add Additional Storage Video Card Gigabyte AERO OC GeForce RTX 4060 8 GB Video Card Add Another Video Card Case HYTE Y60 ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply Corsair RM850e (2022) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Operating System Choose An Operating System Case Fan Lian Li Uni Fan SL-Infinity 61.3 CFM 120 mm Fan Case Fan Lian Li Uni Fan SL-Infinity 72.7 CFM 140 mm Fan Case Fan Lian Li Uni Fan SL-Infinity 72.7 CFM 140 mm Fan

I ordered a iPhone 15 Pro Max & was wondering what USB C 3.0 cable to order for the faster transfer speeds. I don't particularly want to buy apples USB C Pro cable for $70 U.S. Would like to find a cable from a reputable manufacturer that will last & won't junk out after a few months of realistic use. I don't plan on buying a bunch of cables from random companies that I've never heard of just to test whether or not it works. If anyone has any good suggestions any help or direction would be appreciated.

the picture is what my pc currently looks like. as you may see, i have no usb headers, nonetheless usb 3.2 headers. my mobo is a bad OEM board (look up acer N50-600 motherboard). the little stick out bit on the right has a usb 3.2 port. im hoping to connect the usb 3.2 header from the front of my case to the usb 3.2 port on my motherboard, do any of you know where i could get something like that? my usb 3.2 ports on the back of the motherboard dont seem to work will for vr and i have no idea why so i want to try this. i cant give the name of the case since it was a gift and its from an unnamed brand.

So I've had a problem since i purcheased my Z170-XP-SLI motherboard a few years ago, my USB3 transfer speeds seem locked to 10-12 MB/s with regular drops to 512 KB/s-1 MB/s it's never really bothered me before but I've been trying to fix it recently and I'm stumped. Fixes I've tried are reinstalling the driver (Intel(R) USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller - 1.0) that didn't resolve it, I've tried having nothing else plugged in (remoted in for controls) no improvement, there's a driver on gigabytes site for USB3 that's for win8.1 from 2015 but it refuses to install for me even with comp mode. Anyhow if you guys have any suggestions let me know!

Budget (including currency): 1000 € Country: France Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Games - Assetto Corsa in VR, FS2020, Insurgency Sandstorm 2, BF5, RDR2, SW Squadrons VR, Elite Dangerous VR, The thrill of the fight VR Programs / workloads - DxO Photolab 2, Adobe Premiere, Traktor DJ + 6 Tb of medias (separated in 2 HDD) Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Context : _______________________________________________ Overall Work and gaming performance is getting bad The base of the computer is over 8 years old - Intel 4770 - 32Gb DDR3 1600 - MSI Z87-GD65 Gaming --> These are the top priority to replace I don't want to change computer in the next 5 years (except GC) Performance increase required : huge _______________________________________________ I will keep most of the computer : Case : Cooler Master HAF 932 Power supply : Corsair TX 750W GTX1080 32" and 27" screens DAC Oculus Rift CV1 _______________________________________________ Need for 8 SATA ports : 4 HDD : 11Tb 4 SSD : 3,75Tb _______________________________________________ Need for > 5 USB3 ports Oculus Rift CV1 + 3 sensors USB3 Hub (DAC, card readers, USB sticks and SSD) _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Solution so far: _______________________________________________ I need a lot of SATA and USB3 ports, and the ability to make the computer evolve in the future once new tech gets out. But I don't want to pay stupid prices. Will not overclock or seek the extra 3 FPS in a game at the high costs. So far I found that this could be a solution, but I'm not sure if it's the very best : MB : Gigabyte B550 Aorus Elite V2 (3x USB3.1 + 3x USB3.2 + 2x USB2 + 6 SATA ports) HDD : Drop 1 SSD and 1 HD (-2 SATA = need 6), and get a Crucial P5 Plus M.2 2280 PCIe4 RAM : Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x16Gb DDR4 3600 C18 CPU : Ryzen 5600X be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 _______________________________________________ What do you think ? Taking into account the needs and limitations above, what would be your call? I know that some suggested builds in this forum target this kind of global need. But the thing that blocks me the most is the motherboard choice, as the high SATA and USB3 needs make things difficult, and a X570 card is just insanely expensive. Any suggestion / advise / comment is welcome Thanks and have a fantastic day

I found a ThinkPad USB 3 dock in storage at work, and my coworker has a T470s. Will it be possible to triple monitor using the DVI ports from the dock + HDMI from the laptop? Or will the triple monitor only go as far as laptop + 2 DVI?

If I only have one USB3 header on my motherboard, can I use a Y-splitter cable to get all 4 USB ports on my case working? This is what I'm looking at as a possible solution: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B098DZH6LH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I'm asking here because there are user reviews saying it doesn't work, but based on my knowledge of USB, it shouldn't matter if you split it like this. That's exactly how USB2 headers work on the motherboard.

Hi guys, I have a laptop that does not have thunderbolt, and there is no graphics card. I have a GTX 1060 that was given to me, can I use one of those USB risers to PCIe 16X slot and plug the card in via USB 3.0? I've seen videos of people trying this, and it works. I came here to know if this is a good idea or what I should do. The only m.2 slot on my laptop holds my storage drive. I have no hard drive that I can use instead of the m.2. Plz help me since I can't afford a new computer at the moment.

Produce_0.mp4 Its been a year since I experienced this weirdness. I have a Laptop where I don't have this problem and use different methods to get around but I have enough of it. Everytime I connect one of my high performance flash drives (HyperX Savage 64GB, HyperX Fury 16GB, HyperX Fury 32GB and SanDisk Extreme Pro 3.2 128GB) my windows explorer opens and closes rapidly and the connect and disconnect sound can be heard. I recorded it and attached the video. I've been looking in forums and tested a lot of different things to get rid of this problem but I didn't find anything. I build in a PCIe USB-Card with sata power because I thought it my be a power-issue but to no avail. Does anyone know what else I can do? Help would be much appreciated.

First, my internal USB CARD failed USB xHCI Compliant Host Controller - This device cannot start. (Code 10) {Operation Failed} The requested operation was unsuccessful. PCI\VEN_1106&DEV_3483&SUBSYS_34831106&REV_01 PCI\VEN_1106&DEV_3483&SUBSYS_34831106 PCI\VEN_1106&DEV_3483&CC_0C0330 PCI\VEN_1106&DEV_3483&CC_0C03 PCI\VEN_1106&DEV_3483&SUBSYS_34831106&REV_01\6&1E9E60E4&0&0018020B disabled, restart, it would work until next restart So I surfed around a while and found VIA_XHCI_Driver_V4.00B_WithAp, I installed it, and it worked for about 10 hours then my VIA USB 2 hub(s) broke with Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43) instance path : VUSB\VID_2109&PID_3431\8&1BD886D1&0&1 Hardware id's : VUSB\VID_2109&PID_3431&REV_0420 VUSB\VID_2109&PID_3431 Device VUSB\VID_2109&PID_3431\8&1bd886d1&0&1 requires further installation. Tried to reinstalled driver and got error : Fail to Installed components : VIA XHCI Host Controller Driver V4.40D it worked until reboo So installing the VIA_XHCI_Driver_V4.00B_WithAp.exe fixes it for approximately 1 min because all I get now is VIA USB 2.0 Location 1 (USB2.0 Hub) Windows is uninstalling this device. (Code 21) VUSB\VID_2109&PID_2813\9&31AF5847&3&1 VUSB2\CLASS_09&SUBCLASS_00&PROT_00 VUSB2\CLASS_09&SUBCLASS_00 VUSB2\CLASS_09 so I guess the hardware *mostly new USB 3.0 PCIe card* is dead or dying So, unless anyone has a suggestion for a fix how about suggestions for an internal USB 3.0 card... the more ports the better

So, there is a USB port on my new PC that is labelled 'BIOS USB 3.0'. What is it used for? Can I only use it in BIOS? *Image linked to this post*

So I bought a new 2.5in 4tb HDD for my laptop, but learned the drive I got won't fit inside due to the thickness being 15mm. I honestly thought all 2.5in HDD's were the same form factor until today. Anyways, instead of returning the drive I've decided I wanna create a NAS but I don't have any hardware on hand to do such in an efficient manner i.e. I have a Raspberry pi 3 b+, a router which supports file sharing but both of these would be limited to usb 2.0. Options I've looked at so far: 1.) Buy a Raspberry pi4 and get a sata add-in board and case. 2.) Buy a new router which supports file sharing on usb 3.0 and then buy a simple enclosure for my HDD. 3.) Buy a NAS which I can simply insert drive into. What I want is to have an SMB server so I can easily connect to the drive as a file server only. Being able to access the files from outside my home would be a nice bonus if possible. Thoughts/comments/suggestions please.

Hey! I was just wondering what would be better experience wise when expanding the Steam Deck's storage. The SD Card (UHS-I) slot meant for this can transfer up to "104 MB/s". But the USB-C connector on it should be able to go up to "2000MB/s" How viable is using, say the Framework 1TB expansion card (or another small 1TB USB-C 3.2 Gen 2 drive). Instead of a 1TB SD Card. 'Cause where I live, SD cards get pretty expensive here, so I'm just looking for alternatives.

32GB, USB 3.0 (or higher), USB 2.0 (backwards compatible), Fast read speed, Decent write speed. ~$10us or ??? The complaints on Amazon are the same for every drive... Slow. Starts fast and becomes slow. Stops transfers for long periods of time. Unusable for making large transfers all at once. Write speeds too slow to use. Lost data... Some reviews love each drive and someone hates on every single one, and not just in the normal hit and miss of Amazon reviews. Do you have any experience with a 'good' flash drive? Please share opinions and speeds. To tell the truth, I think all of the ones I've ever had were hand-me-downs. Never put large files on them. I don't think I've even owed one more than 4gb, or 8 at the most. Don't remember them getting hot, put who knows if they did or not. Thanks, emcee2

Hi guys. I have a laptop with very limited storage, and I'm also very limited on a budget. I'm considering installing some games on the external hard drive that I have (USB3) Can I do it and what performance impact I can expect? I'm a amateur photographer so the internal drive is occupied with editing software. Buying a new SSD or HDD is out of the question for the moment because I'm tour guide and due to current situation I became unemployed about one year ago. I game on my son's computer now and then but I would love to play with him on multiplayer. I would like to install battlefield 5, RTS games, and so on...

I have recurring issue with my PC where randomly, Windows makes the sound it makes when you unplug a USB device, sometimes every 10 seconds. This happens even with no USB devices plugged into the system. I am pretty sure the issue is only related to my USB3 ports as anytime it happens, all devices in a USB3 (both case and MoBo ports) port crashes and resets after 6ish seconds of it happening., while anything plugged into any other USB port works fine. If I am playing a game when it happens, it causes the game to force close, sometimes results in a BSOD. This has been an issue ever since I built the system and have tried to rule out as much as I can. Tried BIOS updates, chipset driver updates, windows updates, GPU driver updates and it still persists. System Specs: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 64 GB G.Skill Trident Neo @ 3600 MHz Asus PRIME X570 Pro - BIOS Version 2816 Gigabyte RTX 2070 Super OC Edition Corsair RM850x Windows 10 Home 64 bit version 2004

Hey folks, I'm new here. I believe I've identified an issue with some wireless peripherals I have such as my Razer Nari Ultimate and my Xbox One controller with PC wireless dongle. The biggest issue that I have had or noticed is that the Xbox controller will intermittently just seemingly stop sending inputs to the PC. It will eventually return to normal functionality but I perceive it as though the wireless handshake between the dongle and the controller just drops and they have to renegotiate it. I've recently been made aware by happenstance that USB 3.x ports introduce interference in the 2.4Ghz spectrum. My question(s) are, is there a way to know if the manufacturer of a Motherboard/Case/any type of USB 3.x interface has done anything to mitigate this issue unless it has been explicitly stated? Also, what can I do as an average user to improve my existing wireless peripheral experience? Am I supposed to use USB 2.0 for everything beyond when bandwidth is necessary, or am I supposed to plug my wireless receivers/dongles into USB ports as physically far away from USB 3.x ports? In y'all's anecdotal experience does buying shielded cables help to mitigate this issue in a tangible/significant enough way to justify added cost? All that to say I just want my controller to not drop while I'm getting absolutely Shrekt in Monster Hunter on PC. I appreciate anyone who takes the time to look at this and either drop just raw information or suggestions. Thanks!

Hello everyone, i have a problem My config: Cpu: Ryzen 5 2600 Mobo: Asus strix b450 f-gaming Gpu: Rtx 3070 (Yeah seems a little unbalanced, but i‘ll uprgrade soon) SSD: Some weird WD Blue 250 gig one Cable Fresh n‘ rebel 3 m usb c 3.0 cable The Problem is that i want to use an Oculus quest 2 which runs perfectly fine with the inside Processor and graphics but when i connect it to my Pc the oculus link software says, that it only runs in usb 2.0 and then it kicks apps out after a time. I have tried refreshing the drivers for my usb root hubs and also updated the bios to the newest version (4707) or something i dunno. And this hcix hands off thing i tried with enabled and disabled. Maybe somebody already had this problem and fixed it and can help me out Thanks

Hello. I have an MSI B460 TOMAHAWK motherboard and I was wondering if it supports USB 3 (if it has pins so that I can connect the front USB 3 on my case) Thanks!

Hello! This is my first post on the ltt forum. If I`m breaking any rules, please tell me and I`ll comply. At the moment I`m using this broken cable that came with my Note 8 to charge my phone. I was thinking about getting a quality one for all my needs, but also something more special than a basic Samsung one. As more and more things are switching to USB-C, I figured it would be a good investment. I considered those custom, coiled cables that I see people use for keyboards, but I don`t think I`ll be able to fast charge with something like that. So far my option is the Night Cable from Cable Union. It`s pricey, but has a nice feature and a lot of great reviews. What else would you recommend? Also, I live in Romania (Europe), in case it changes anything.

Is there a USB3 hub that has dedicated USB2 controllers? Issue -> All USB2 devices = 480Mbps I have a ton of USB2 devices, but they're all bandwidth constrained on the 480Mbps bus. Even on USB3 ports, USB2 devices only use the USB2 pins. If I plug them into different ports on my computer, it doesn't matter because I have a max of 3 USB controllers on my board, and one of those is in the front of my case (which I don't want to use for this). Multiple USB2 controllers for USB3? Since I have 10-20Gb per USB3 controller of bandwidth, is it possible there's a USB hub out there which converts USB2 devices to USB3? That'd be plenty of bandwidth for both my USB2 and USB3 devices. I'm assuming this exists because I know there are dedicated PCIe cards that do the same thing. Is USB-C a solution? This system does not have Thunderbolt, but it does have 10Gb and 20Gb USB-C. I know that USB-C has 2 sets of USB2 data-pins, so maybe that doubles the available bandwidth? Does anyone know? I do have USB-C USB2 hubs.

is there a command prompt i could use or something? the drive doesn't show up in windows "optimization" settings, i think its because you cant schedule a optimization for an external drive... so there surely should be another way to do this? EDIT: Does exFAT even need to be defragged? im finding *very* contradictory "info" on google web (anyone miss the days when google actually found appropriate answers for your searches btw... )

Problem: Built my PC 2 years ago and after some months I noticed that my front panel usb 3.0 ports started "flickering" when my phone got connected(with original phone cable, not bent or broken/soldered) so it would flash on and off, connected and disconnected. Solved the problem by connecting it to the back of the PC, letting me get to my files and stuff. After some time I bought a VR(Rift S) and played with no problems until 2 months ago where my VR headset would randomly disconnect. I thought it was my VR headset or some software problem but then when connecting my phone to the back ports it started to do the same thing as the front panel ports. Extra: -My priority is being able to use my VR again as I don't want to box it and not being able to use it until getting a new PC. -VR worked fine, I used to play for hours from 1 to 5 and even 10 hours sometimes. (played games in low enough settings for no over heating) -Now VR works from 5 minutes to 30 minutes until it "crashes" and disconnects and connects again repeating it multiple times. -I have 8 usb 3.0 ports and 2 usb 2.0 ports. -Other devices work fine in those usb ports (Bluetooth antenna, Usb's and PS4 controller). -I don't have a usb hub or extension. -Haven't made any changes to the bios.(updated it) -None of the cables are broken as I've verified each one(VR and Phone cables)(phone cables work on other devices fine, don't have another PC to test VR) Bonus: Here a list of things I've tried to do to fix it: -restarted my pc millions of times in every mode possible -unplugged and plugged back in the vr headset -changed usb ports(from the 8 that I have 6 work with the VR and only 4 fully powers the vr headset) -unplugged everything in my pc leaving only the vr, keyboard and mouse connected(obviously the power and dvi cable are on) -Turned the put usb suspend mode on the power and battery menu off(disabled) -updated, uninstalled, installed again usb drivers(even installed custom ones)(yes I uninstalled the bus drivers/ rift s ones/ every driver that had the word usb in it) -disabled drivers updates -tried with windows 10 updated to latest version and fully fresh without any update installed -reinstalled oculus twice -reinstalled steamVR -did a cmd(in administrator mode) scannow and chkdisk -Re-installed windows(fully reinstalled from usb and formatted from fast format menu in windows) -I've formatted my pc 100% and installed only oculus and still happens -I disassembled my pc twice and all cables are correctly connected -changed every driver to not turn off the usb device to save up energy -reinstalled for the 3rd time oculus and fully deleted all the files and drivers/regedit files -changed power cord from multi outlet to wall outlet -updated the bios -Tested Gen1 and Gen2 of usb 3.0 -got a new pc(got new psu, cpu, motherboard, ram)(re-did all steps mentioned before on new pc) -installed old oculus firmware(may have not been installed correctly) -installing old and new firmware / drivers for gtx 1070 Still after all of this changes to my PC, my VR and Phone still doesn't work correctly. I've looked everywhere on the internet from Google to yahoo to Bing and DuckDuckGo. Watched hundreds of videos and all of them say the same "Trick to fix the problem". My Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 MotherBoard: ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. PRIME B450M-A Rev X.0x GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 RAM: 16GB 2X8 (16 GB total memory type DDR4 to 1.56 GHz) CASE: Rosewill ATX Case(couldn't find any other info on it) PSU: Corsair RMX Series RM750X 750W Fully Modular Power Supply 80 PLUS GOLD

I am planning a new build using the corsair 4000D airflow case. There is a USB 3.2 gen 1 type A port in the front panel. I was wondering if I could connect that port to a different type of USB header like a USB 3.1 gen 2 header) because, I don't want to spend around 400 dollars on a motherboard only for one specific USB header.