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Hi all, Im currently running a 7800X3D with a Thermalright frost commander, and planning to upgrade to an Assassin IV for aesthetic purposes and noise reduction in future. Im wondering if an offset bracket would also help with this? Lowerings temps slightly and resulting in a quieter fan speed for similar temps, i know it will be a minor change, just wondering if its worth the cost? As its not a noctua cooler, am i, 1. still able to buy and use an appropriate noctua offset mount for my cooler? or 2. will i have to buy a thermal grizzly one? The only issue with the thermal grizzly one is its quite expensive for what it will achieve coming in at £29 or almost $37. Any thoughts?

Hello all, My boss has asked me to use liquid metal on one of our rendering workstations. I've bought LM & the Thermal Grizzly protective shield. My question is, do I need to remove the CPU socket entirely and apply the protective shield? Or, can I leave the socket installed and put a protective coating around it? TIA

I’ve thought about it long and hard, and I’ve decided to use liquid metal between my 12700K and NH-D15. Think I’m going to initially start with Noctua NT-H1 that came with my NH-D15. This is because I’ve sourced components from a variety of retailers and I want to make sure the system can get up and running before risking LM. It will also give me a chance to act as a comparison to LM. I’ll aim to run NT-H1 for a couple of months then switch to LM and I’ll try and keep this thread updated with stats and any issues I run into. The question I have for you lovely people is: which LM shall I use? Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut or Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra? Based on a) cooling performance, and b) effect on IHS and heatsink; i.e. corrosion, absorption, welding, alloying, staining, pitting, ‘drying out’, and all the other buzz words we use to describe what happens. No need to repeat the chemical reactions and the fact LM doesn’t technically ‘dry’ etc. I’m basically just looking for opinions (first hand if possible) on whether there would be a perceivable difference in either. (I have an unopened Liquid Ultra from a few years ago that looks ok and just bought Conductonaut for £8. If the consensus is there will be no perceivable difference I’ll probably return the Conductonaut and save the £8, but if it’s ever so slightly weighing in on Conductonaut’s favour I’ll prob go with that. In for a penny in for a pound and all that.) IHS is nickel plated obviously and the NH-D15 heat plate is nickel plated copper as well so nickel on nickel. Oh, and any application tips will be greatly received! I’ve heard carefully massaging it into both surfaces before mating does the trick? (Still talking about the LM btw). Thanks! J

So I'm thinking about changing the thermal paste solution on my ryzen 3600X and was looking for a good thermal paste solution on AliExpress and found this liquid metal thermal paste brand going by the name "LT -100". It Costs 13USD including shipping for a 3g tube. My question is, it is advertising itself to have a wopping 128W/m K of thermal conductivity and I'm not totally sold on its claims as I have my doubts. Even popular liquid metal brands like Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut and Thermalright advertises their products to have about 79W/m K conductivity. Could this be true or is it just false advertising? Can an relatively unknown cheap brand achieve that kind of thermal performance and cost less than the competition? The product has good reviews btw. LKR 1,255.07 18%OFF | LT-100 Liquid Metal Thermal Conductive Paste Grease for CPU GPU Cooling Liquid Ultra 128W/mK 1.5g 3g Compound Grease for Cooling https://a.aliexpress.com/_mK0EsDb Edit - 11/06 - lets say that I did buy a good liquid metal interface and apply it to my CPU. for example Conductonaut from Thermal Grizzly. How long will it last until I have to change and reapply the paste cause Ive read that liquid metal does not last longer as your regular thermal paste.

I watched this video by Der8auer a while ago and am fascinated with the idea of using this chemical nickel-plating technique on my laptops heat spreaders and finally be able to use liquid metal paste on them. I also watched his subsequent video, showing his results three months afterwards, and am convinced that, maybe, you need a much thicker nickel-plate to make sure it works properly. So I want to ask if anybody's ever tried it and if they can offer any advice. Thanks.

Is this legit Kryonaut? I bought it on Amazon the certificate of origin came back as real but im still not 100%

Upon researching Thermal Grizzly's products, while Conductonaut has the best thermal conductivity of them all, I know that it corrodes aluminium and copper heatsinks and Nickel-based heatsinks seem to be non-existent. So I compared the Kryonaut paste and the Carbonaut. The latter has vastly superior thermal conductivity of about 62.5 W/mk over the Kryonauts 12.5 W/mk so it seems like a no-brainer. However, I'm using a laptop so the CPU and GPU dies are clearly smaller than desktop ones and the smallest Carbonaut pads TG offers are 32x32. (I presume that's 32 millimetres). How practical is it to cut a Carbonaut pad so it can fit a laptop CPU die?

Sorry about the title, because I'm from Sir Lanka and I want to know where I can buy Thermal Grizzly's Kryonaut thermal paste in Sri Lanka. The real deal, not a fake that's branded as Thermal Grizzly. Please Help. Also tell me it this is a good idea, I have a Lenovo y540 (i5-9300H, 16GB RAM, GTX1650) laptop. The CPU temps goes up to 98°C and thermal throttles. I tried undervolting (-140mV) and it brings the max temps to 94°C which is better than before. After some research I came to the conclusion that my thermal paste must have dried up. So I came to the conclusion to re-paste the CPU. Please tell me if this a good idea and if so where I can buy the Thermal Grizzly's Kryonaut (or anything better) from Sri Lanka online or in stores. Thanks in advance.

Hey guys, I was wondering what have been your experiences when repasting a computer and what to expect after doing it. im going to repaste my laptop with artic mx4, since I have always had pretty high temps (omen pls), it was so bad that if I didn’t undervolted it , the computer would shut down . For around 2 years undervolting was enough but still it was someway near 87 or 90 when gaming demanding games. But lately I have been having. 95-99 when undervolted even when only on the menu of the game and the computer is permanently Loud. I opened it and saw that is has a considerable amount of dust so I decided to clean it and repaste it. i was wondering what results to expect from doing this. thanks everybody and have a great day!

So... I was going to relid a friends 3570k with the rockitcool kit and I have some Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra to use with it. Well, I'm not even sure how, but I came across Thermal Grizzly's Conductonaut which has almost double the thermal conductivity of coolaboratory. Heres some data: http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/liquid-metal-showdown-thermal-grizzly-conductonaut-vs-cool-laboratory-liquid-ultra-pro.791489/ My question is, do you guys think I should just use liquid ultra or should I try and secure some conductonaut? I haven't been able to find a ton of opinions on it. Thanks! Update: Well I went ahead and ordered the conductonaut, wish I would have found it sooner now I have to wait until next weekend to delid Amazon didn't have it with prime shipping. I'd still appreciate some opinions and info comparing the two or even just comments/tips on using conductonaut. Well... sorry for not doing a search on LTT first, plenty of info already. Seems like conductonaut is good all around. But hey I'll update with before and after temps to make this post less useless!! Hooray!! Update 11/4: So I was wrong.. there is barely any info on this stuff. So I'm still very curious to hear about someone else's experience with conductonaut. There isn't even a single video on youtube (that I found) about it. I already have CL liquid pro so I might just use that this weekend, but if conductonaut is really that much better then I don't mind waiting. Also, I have an idea to run by you guys, after I delid my cpu, I was thinking to be on the safe side I could put a non conductive TIM (kryonaut specifically) on the edge of cpu die and use liquid metal on the flat surface and a bit on IHS as well. Reason being that if any liquid metal does run off it should be ok because there will be a layer of nonconductive material to prevent it from touching anything. I personally can't think of anything wrong with this idea, but feel free to point out my oversights!

Anyone aware of a source that ships the delid die mate 2 to the US and has it in stock? Amazon, ebay, and overclockers.uk list it as out of stock or no longer available.

Strap in, this is a tedious one. Silverstone Tundra TD03-lite (AIO short loop cooler, single-120mm-fan-supporting rad) Scythe Silent Wings 3 (for static pressure against AIO radiator, auto modulation on CPU fan pin) Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Intel 6700K (never delided) (seems to be a fairly good silicon lottery sample?) Silverstone FT05 (rotated design chassis, using both 2x200mm bottom fans at various speeds) R9 380 4GB (not much heat coming from this) / (formerly) 5970 HD (lots of heat came from this) Upon first ever installation the performance was excellent with the 6700K at stock speeds and 1.2v voltage never passing 60 degree centigrade in late summer after prolonged and various stress tests. It was very impressive. I cannot remember the perfectly-complete history of maintenance regarding this setup unfortunately, but I believe that my story will be sufficiently complete. I have replaced the paste at least once before my following problematic experiences. After said replacement of the paste I did forget to use a coffee filters, instead using some other material likely paper towels, to clean the cooling block so it has lost some of its sheen, this may have affected cooling slightly. However, using what I could remember of the same technique and guidance from online I found my cooler to again be at least very sufficient, with 70c being seen never even in tests unless I forget to turn the case airflow on or lower the pump speed too far. Rather suddenly, twice, in the last month - I've found my CPU overheating, even to the point of shutdown. I was even overheating when idle and in BIOS, heat was clearly accumulating over time and eventually caused the system to shut down even in windows CPU speed capped at 25% (Needed my PC for some things). This was very odd as it happened suddenly with no physical disturbances to the system. I was perplexed, seeking any answer other than physical... After acquiring some new 99.9% alcohol as a volatile solvent, I used coffee filters to thoroughly clean the CPU and block then re-applied my paste and subsequently firmly secured the block to the CPU. The temperatures were then down again to 25c in idle as normal and some reasonable values when worked... Wow OK, I guess it was somehow, suddenly, a thermal interface issue. A week or two later, I heard my CPU fan whirring loudly, what could this be? Temperatures were approaching 70s... 80s in games, 90 in a memory stress test, a week ago idling at 40. It was not crashing, but I wasn't happy with the temperatures of course. A bad paste application? (again(?)) But it worsened over time? It's complex to describe my observations, the progression of the temperatures and the reading and temperatures on other components however I believe that: This is probably not the fault of: -cooling solution/setup/airflow (including dust) being insufficient (I've seen it performance excellently) -the iGPU being wasteful (I've tested with it on and off) -VRMs being broken (I'm seeing no strange voltages or power usage on the mobo or GPU) -cooler (pump) or fans being broken nor unreliable (the behaviour is not erratic in that sense) -sensors being broken (I've put my finger on the back of the mobo, it is certainly overheating)(although core #1 (2nd of 4) on my CPU consistently reads up to 5c hotter than the rest, and the whole set often jumps up and down by 10c between my 1sec set poll time) Considerations for diagnosis: Fan and pump speeds are all -Skylake is thinner than its predecessors which this cooler was designed for (Tundra 03 was released before Skylake) (although it feels stationary, tight and secure)(I noticed that when installing a H212+ on a friend's 6600k that the cooler was very loose and had to be tightened significantly but still wiggled) -Cooler could be too tight, squeezing the TIM out (I have no way of knowing) -Paste could be too little, or too much, or a combination with the above. -There could be airpockets in the paste (I have no way of knowing but clearly I've successfully avoided them in the past and otherwise applied the paste well) -I've tried stock motherboard settings and this has no positive affect on the thermal performance -The bolts that pass through the motherboard of the tundra 03 are a slightly troublesome design, as they can easily rotate in their provided bracket, causing the block to sit unevenly. (However I am aware of this and am especially careful to install this cooler correctly every time) -Recent intel security patches affect performance (this is really a long shot but I haven't tested my system with hyperthreading off) -Being an AIO, waterbubbles in the loop seem fairly unlikely. -I've had some BSOD lately, can't play a game (ARMA 3) as it causes a crash (which did scramble some windows settings on occasion, such as my start menu layout), very recently my PC is crashing when I'm AFK but never when I'm sitting at it, strangely. although I've seen no bluescreens since the zombieload etc. windows patch though I suspect no relation, could easily have been an audio driver. Please can anyone you offer some advice on what could be suddenly wrong with my set up? I'm relatively certain that the issue concerns mechanical design and installation of the cooler which I'm unable to inspect, nor form insight on, nor assess. Hope this is at least slightly interesting to someone out there. Holler if I need to clarify something. Update, 3rd June – Idling at sub 30, even falling to sub 30 after torture. Stressing my 6700k: with CPUz and MemTest is resulting in 65c after 5 min, up to 88c after an hour with all fans and pumps spinning up to their highest. I've heard of mechanical materials (TIM) needing to settle but I retain suspicions that a sudden and critical situation might occur again... Unless the recent windows patch addressing zombieload really did resolve something eheh...

hey guys, been meaning to repaste my laptop that i recently bought with some better thermal paste; mainly looking at kryonaut as it's apparently the best (do leave recommendations otherwise). but i've been looking online and it seems like there are two different packaging styles. (1) (2) looking around youtube, i see that most people are using tube (2). is there a difference between the two in terms of cooling performance? or are they the same compound but just in different and updated tubes. would love some help on this, thanks!

Hi, i have asus strix vega 64, and i want to replace the thermal paste. i couldnt find any other thermal grizzly paste products, so is the Hydronaut good enough?

This product was teased a few months back by Der8auer in a video with GamersNexus. Carbonaut is a thermal pad similar to the IC Graphite Thermal Pad that we have seen from Innovation Cooling. But it is claimed by Der8auer to be more optimised and to perform about as well as an average to low performance thermal paste and better than IC's Graphite Thermal Pads. The one advantage to these carbon/graphite sheets is that they don't have to be replaced meaning they are ideal for graphics cards and applications where a lot of disassembly is required such as in laptops also they don't degrade over time like thermal paste does. However, thermal paste such as Thermal Grizzly's Kryonaut performs much better, but this is the choice that consumers have: Do they want better performance for overclocking and testing or peace of mind knowing they don't have the change their thermal paste on their components most likely for the lifetime of the graphics card or processor. I can't wait to get my hands on this so I never have to replace the thermal paste on my gfx card again. This thermal pad is now on sale from many retailers (which are listed on Thermal Grizzly's website EDIT: Though it looks like its only available as a preorder currently) and has been tested by a couple of people so far, namely ScienceStudio, ToroTocho reviews and Der8auer himself. ScienceStudio Toro Tocho Reviews Der8auer Thermal Grizzly Carbonaut http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/thermal-grizzly-carbonaut.828413/ This was only site online that I could find any discussion on sadly. No major sites had any topic relating to this.

Hello each and everyone Recently got myself Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut, and used it on all my machines. It works perfectly on my desktop and laptop. However on my ultrabook weird stuff happens... It's Dell Latitude E7250 with i7 5600u inside. I changed the paste once, spread it evenly with attached thingy. Same way I did with other devices. After the change temps were great, I was even able overclock it a tiny little bit, with no thermal throttling under stress testing. Called it a day. I carry it in my bagpack everyday to work, and back home. After two weeks, it started making more noise then ususally, and even shut down on me twice. I said WTF?! Measured temps, and got constant thermal throttling... Well, let's reapply it again, maybe I messed something up. This time I used a 'pea' method, no spreading the paste manually. Again, after reassembling temps are great, no issues. Good I carry it in my bagpack everyday to work, and back home. After two weeks, it started making more noise then ususally, and even shut down on me twice. I said WTF?! Measured temps, and got constant thermal throttling... ... Do you see the pattern? What the hell? After each disassembly I checked how the paste looked like on the die, and it seems, like it is spreading away from the die. The center looked shiny, paste-free Is this even possible? I'm confused... Should I reapply Grizzly again, or is it somewhat different, not suitable for this kind of a device, and I should get something else instead, say Arctic silver 5? help?

I was looking into getting some of the thermal grizzly kryonaut thermal paste for cooling as it's good but doesn't have the difficulties as their liquid metal counterpart (I can't afford to screw up with liquid metal). However, as I live in Canada, the costs of thermal grizzly are insanely inflated due to third party suppliers. Therefore, what are some other decent non-liquid metal thermal pastes around that are actually affordable?

i just bought the 360 rog Ryujin and on the aio there is a preinstalled thermal compound. my question is should i use the preistalled one or the thermal grizzly hydronaut that i bought before i knew aios came with TC preinstalled? and how do you clean TC off?

I am using a 8700k with Cryorig R1 Universal. Currently using the Thermal Paste that came with the cooler which is called "CP9" I have the processor slightly overclocked to 4.6 and was thinking if getting a better thermal paste ( i have Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut in mind) would make much difference. I will go for Grizzly if there is significant diff in temps like more than 5 degrees or something.

Hey all. I just bought a new laptop and apparently it benefits from LM TIM replacement. In order to make sure I didn't kill my new computer, I tested the process on my old Lenovo T430. I applied conformal coating to the aluminum surrounding the copper on the heatsink I applied conformal coating to the CPU and GPU processors around the die. I applied just enough Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut to make the dies shiny and metallic. The results are included in the pictures. Can anyone better explain why the temperatures don't reflect what others have seen (10-20 degree drop). I think the cooling solution may be bottle-necking my results, but I wanted to see if anyone had any other ideas. With results like this, I don't really want to open my new laptop up. Pre-LM Idle Pre-LM Load Post-LM Idle Post-LM Load Post-LM/Post-Stress Test Idle

I own a Cooler Master 212 EVO and am looking into using liquid metal for that sweet thermal conductivity. I'm doing research into this and it seems that liquid metal can do a lot of damage to your cooler. I would like to get some thermal grizzly conductonaut. Would this be safe for my cooler or will i see damage within a few weeks? Also is there any safer LM alternatives that still provide high performance with no chance to degrade either my cooler or CPU?

Just recieved my 1g supply of Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, and... it looks weird? Is it just me, or does the liquid metal not look very paste-like? Is this an issue? It honestly looks like pure gallium or mercury or something. Mine: https://imgur.com/a/jdFEiKF Comparison: https://imgur.com/a/aPz9AMu

Hey Guys, Next Month im going to build my first custom pc and I'm asking myself if I should take the risk and use thermal grizzly conductonaut. Where can it spill that would cause irreparable damage. The Pc is going to be pretty expensive ~1600€ so is it worth to take the risks and especcialy where are the risks. Thanks

So after seeing the quasi brillo pad of a removal method for Coollaboraties Liquid Ultra, I looked into other cleanup methods as well as tried something outside the box. Figured I'd share my experience and information... Response from Thermal Grizzly support after it got everywhere (including pretty impossible to reach spots... And for my outside the box, I thought about what the scrubbing pad is essentially doing and figured there were a bunch of products out there that may do similar. Eventually I decided to try an automotive exterior compound liquid as it's designed to mildly clean and polish a surface. I used Meguire's Ultimate Compound as I've used Meguire's with my cars for years with no damage to my paint, etc. and it was one of the few solutions that was just a compound without a bunch of extra stuff designed to stay on the surface afterwards (figured that would be extremely important ). It still took a few applications as I wanted to use as little as possible overall. During the applications, I also found that the best "scrubber/applicator" for the compound was my finger as the fingerprint ridges acted like a miniscule squeegee and also provided the most control. Afterwards I thoroughly cleaned with alchohol to make sure there wasn't any remaining residue. Feel free to chime in with your thoughts. I originally tested this on an old 6600k before this enclosed after-cleaning pic of a 1950x. I used part of the original packaging to make sure I had a good grip as well as make sure I didn't damage any of the contacts. n close inspection, you can still see some of the tarnish like after effects of the thermal compound and note that the cpu ihs surface is a little more glossy than it was originally.

Yes I saw the toms hadware 2017 thermal paste test and other tests,but I would like to hear what temperatures you got with Kryonaut. I want to buy best thermal paste,is Kryonaut really the best? I have some 7 year old Noctua paste from when I bought nh d14,I read that old paste is not good so thats why I am buying new.Maybe I am paranoid conspiracy theorist,but I think some reviews and test from some sites might be lying in order to create hype and sales as result,also astroturfing is a thing.I am skeptical about this Thermal Grizzly,and that is why I want to hear ( read ) from you,what kind of temperatures you got. Compared to Noctua NT H1 or other tried proven good performing thermal pastes,is Kryonaut better,equal or worse?