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I've been looking online for some device that can do these things: Stream platform like Disney+, Netflix, Amazon... Has USB ports Has an Ethernet Jack Stream using the Steam Link App at 1080p 60 fps, say 30-70 Mbit/s The obvious choice is the Nvidia Shield TV 4K but at $200 there has to be something cheaper available, and that's what I'm trying to find! I'm considering buying a device like this: https://www.amazon.com/4K-Ultra-HD-Android-Box/dp/B07NGKQB88/ref=sr_1_1?tag=at88-20&dchild=1&keywords=Ematic Jetstream&qid=1600753482&sr=8-1&geniuslink=true My biggest concern with this is whether the hardware is enough to run steam link smoothly. There seems to be practically no information or comparison among various devices and hardware schemes aside from the odd Reddit post saying "Nvidia shield works best." Does anyone know about this subject and how has your experience using Steam link on a dedicated Android TV stick/box been?
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Hey, one of my USB sticks doesn't work anymore. The light comes up and windows keeps spamming the inject and eject sound for USB devices. I can't find the USB drive in my device manager and so on. I tried usbdeview, it's able to detect the old drive letter G I believe. At this stage, I found out something really weird. If I have my USB stick, the one that doesn't work into my computer, the program just stops responding. If I plug it out again everything runs smoothly. If I try to see if my UEFI Bios detects it, the bios doesn't even let me start. When I start into the bios without my USB it works fine - plug it in mouse and keyboard stop responding, nothing works. Testdisk can't seem to find it also. The only program that detected something is usbdeview. Does someone maybe know how to fix this, or is it impossible?
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I recently found an old Dell QuietKey at the local recycling center. It was terribly dirty, so I took it apart and washed the plastic parts, including the rubber domes. My first time putting it back together, I had issues regarding the rubber domes being out of place, making some of the keys stick completely and therefore were rendered useless. After fixing that, I have come across an issue that I cannot solve. I elevated the keyboard so that they would not push up and prevent the keys from sliding down. However, now some of the keys have become very stiff and require more effort to go down. I washed the rubber domes (beforehand, during the initial wash) with soap and water, would that have made them too dry or something? Please help, I do not want to have to buy the keyboard.
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Buy Nvidia video cards on Amazon: http://geni.us/K3qCaf These may be the coolest USB sticks we've ever seen... but can you amplify their performance by "SLIing" them like you can with their GPU lookalikes?
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So, as some people have probably discovered: mice can be finicky things. I've been having this kinds of problems with mice across 4 different mice, 5 different surfaces, and 3 years of frustrated gaming. Now, it's difficult to describe the problem specifically, but I'll do the best I can: occasionally, after long gaming sessions, my mouse cursor will start to stick/stutter. I'll be moving my mice along the pad, but my cursor will freeze, inexplicably... and then it will keep going... sometimes. Occasionally, it fill freeze horizontally, and I can move it up and down freely, sometimes vice versa. The only way to get it working is to shake my arm like a madman, and then it will stick again the moment I slow down to normal speeds. Now, if you've encountered a similar problem, let me lay out the fixes I have found elsewhere in the hope they will help you. To be clear: I'm using a Razer Naga 2014 Edition Optical Mouse, using Razer Synapse for my drivers, and a Razer Goliath as my mouse pad (it shipped with, so sue me). Unplugging/Replugging Tried and true, nothing seems to fix tech problems like "turning it off and on again". Using a different surface If you're using a mouse pad, try it just on your desk or even a different mouse pad. Try using a mouse pad if you don't use one right now. Update/Remove your drivers Seriously, super important. There are lots of places to find more information on how to do this, and it varies from mouse to mouse, but any piece of hardware or peripheral uses a driver, keep it updated at all times. Saves you so much headache. Coming back and adding an addendum for what ended up working for me: if you have a Razer mouse and are experiencing similar problems to me, try uninstalling synapse. Honestly, I haven't had any problems since I did that. Updated your mouse scheme Sometimes problems with your mouse can be caused by a superfluous aesthetic enforced by your OS. I came across this reddit post talking about how to change that for Windows 10, and it works for Windows 7 as well. Clean your mouse/pad The optical sensors on a mouse are delicate sometimes, and you regularly need to clean the bottom to make sure it's not getting all gunked up. Same goes for your mousepad: if there's crumbs and junk everywhere, that's not exactly gonna lead to sick plays, is it? Try a new mouse This one is down here for a reason: it sucks to find you sunk ~$70 into a mouse only for it to be unusable. But, unfortunately, that sometimes happens. ____________________________________ I hope that you were able to find this useful, and that it resolves any issues you've been having with your mouse.
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Hey LTT Community, currently i am looking for some portable storage for my daily use with my Dell XPS 15 L501x(with win 7 64 bit). I looked for usb 3.0 sticks which also would be able to use for os installation, but on amazon.de(i am from germany) there are lot comments about speed drops during usage(most of the time write speeds) and overheating issues(which kinda made me thinking). I also know about usb 3.0 Sata adapters for normal ssds or m.2 ssds(where my knowledge is not that big for example i read on win 7 m.2 ssds doesn't work properly over usb 3.0 adapters). So can you guys recommend me some products or tell me sth about the m.2 issue? For storage capacity questions i am looking for about 120gb
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I installed Ubuntu last night but with failure. Today it seems like my laptop doesnt event want to boot from a USB stick. I am able to see it in the BIOS but when booting it just seems to skip it. The laptop is an Acer Aspire 7730 (Old junk).. I have tried burning the ISO's straight to the HDD itself but with no luck of booting. Anyone got any ideas on how to get it running? ___________ Jonas
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So long story short, I moved my hardware from one case to another and now windows wont boot unless I have only one of the ram sticks in only one of the slots. Now the thing is I tried that one stick on both of the slots (its mini itx so theres only 2 slots) and it only works in the first and not the second slot, which made me think the slot was faulty, but then I tried the other stick and to my suprise the other one wont work in either of the slots (RGB on the sticks still works btw). At this point the only logical conclusion my mind comes to is that I not only damaged the slot whilst moving the hardware but the stick itself too like wtf what are the chances. I've thoroughly checked the mobo as well as the ram stick for any scraches or damage of any sort whatsoever and they both seem perfectly fine. Also if the ram slot or stick were dead wouldn't windows still boot but just not read them ? So now I'm only running with 1 stick in the first slot until I figure something out, I'm planning on checking whether or not the second stick works ok on my cousin's pc and I'll give you an update but until then ANY piece of advice will be greatly appreciated considering i really want my sweet 8 gigs of ram back to work. SPECS: CPU: Intel i5 7600k, 3.8GHz (4.6 OC) MOBO: Asus Strix z270i Gaming GPU: Zotac Nvidia Geforce 1070 RAM: Corsair VENGEANCE® RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3200MHz HDD: Seagate 1TB SSD Samsung Evo 860 500gb PSU: EVGA Supernova 550 G3 or something like that Windows 10 64bit
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I am trying to apply my modmic 5 to the steel series arctis 5 but it just wont stick. Both earmuffs are rubber and the adhesive doesn't work very well. Any ideas on how to get it to stick
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I now have 3 ram sticks for my system. Where do I need to insert them and are there any drawbacks in using 3 sticks ? Its ddr3 btw
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Hello, I have a lexar 64gb usb 3.0 drive that worked well for a year almost, reading with almost 400MB/s and writing with about 250MB/s on average. Yesterday it just downgraded to usb2.0 speeds and reads/writes with 40MB/s . I tried format i tested in 3 different pcs with windows with linux, no change. Windows tells me "this device could perform faster if plugged into a usb 3.0 port" and i'm like You don't say ? I've been using it for a year i know for sure it's in a usb 3.0 port. What can i do to make it work at usb 3.0 speeds again ? can it be a hardware problem ? I'm pretty tech savy and don't mind reflashing it's firmware it's just that i have no experience dealing with this particular type of problem.
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Hey guys, I have bought 3 SanDisk USB Sticks with 64GB each, and all of them say that the storage is not enough, even for small files like 7GB. I bought them at Amazon, they are no fakes! Do I have to format them first or what should I do now? Thanks in advance!!
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Hi, i have a friend that is travelling to the US right now and since its much cheaper compared to where i live, im looking for the best 16GB KIT (2x8) out there. I'm gonna pair it with a 8700k or a future 9700k. Which one should i choose? 3000MHz CL15 3200MHz CL16 3466MHz CL16 3600MHz CL18 I'm also open to suggestions, thanks.
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Hi! In my x58 system (I know it's dated but it doesnt bottleneck my Gtx 680) I have only a dual channel kit (2x4). If I add another stick with the same specs as the other 2 (voltages, capacity, latency and frequency and brand) will it run in triple channel?
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Hey, I'm looking for ultra fast USB drives that come with a decent amount of storage, very durable and of course very fast. Most USB drives now days either seem to be very cheap or very cost effective and what I've noticed is a lot of fast drives quickly slow down when they heat up. I'm wondering if their are any that push USB 3 or even better 3.1 to their limit or if its best to make my own out of an SSD and a USB to either m.2 sata or m.2 Nvme (if such a thing even exists which I doubt it does) Thanks, Scott
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was working before and its know detected as disk drive and when accesing it it just says please insert disk
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Hey I, I’d say I’m not new to PC building, I have all the theory knowledge however this is the first time I have done anything practical. So on my first pc build the bleeper(speaker) on the motherboard indicated no memory was being read, so I checked and the stick was not completely flush with the slot. So I reseated the stick stick countless times, tried the other slot etc, then I discovered that memory sticks have a random slant where the pins are? (Not the key) I check on amazon and they are the same on there? I’m pretty sure this isn’t what’s preventing the ram stick from going in fully? I can push one side of the stick in all the way but they do not go in simultaneously, here is the RAM and MB I have, please get back to me ASAP: Gskill F4 2133 °C15S F3-1600 °C11D-8GNT Memory D4 2133 8GB C15 NT 1x 8GB 1.2 V ASRock motherboard 90-MXB3P0-A0UAYZ, black this is an image of the curve I’m talking about:
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Hi, I just bought a 128GB USB 3.0 Kingston Datatraveler SE9 G2 Memory stick and I've just tested it in Crystadiskmark and was wondering if these results are normal?? cheers.
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so as in the title is it better to have one 8gb stick of ram two 4gb or four 2gb is their any advantages and disadvantages to it (all stick run at same speed)
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I have a flight stick that I use in battlefield and I was wondering if it is possible to buy a throttle. I want a HOTAS setup in Star Citizen but don't want to buy another stick as well. If you know of any throttles for >100 I would be very happy. My own searching has reaped little.
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Alright so I just got my Razer Blade Stealth. So far I love it! There's only one minor thing that is kind of being a little annoying. It seems like if I press the trackpad buttons in a certain way, they get stuck. I can unstick them quite easily, but it's pretty annoying. Suggestions?
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Looking for a sub $50 flight stick to get into simulator games. I have narrowed down my choices to two sticks: the Thrustmaster T16000M and the Thrustmaster Hotas X. If anyone has had experience with one or both of these and could give some information on them I'd really appreciate it. Thanks.
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Anyone who's annoyed by me by now knows, I just like asking questions. This time, I'm wanting opinions on H.O.T.A.S. And pedal/rudder setups. The games I play/will play that can make use of these setups would be MechWarrior Online, Star Citizen, Elite: Dangerous... Basically mech and spaceship games. I'd like a solid, useable bit of gear that would last. Quality would be supreme over other factors. I was looking at thrustmaster's Warthog, but I didn't see any good pedal/rudder designs on their site. Is the warthog worth it? Or would I find equal quality and use at half the price elsewhere? What is a good pedal rudder system that would allow me to control turning? Any and all opinions are welcome on this. Seriously, all of them.
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Hi, I'm considering upgrading my RAM from my current 8GB to 12GB or 16GB. Main purpose is gaming/general use, but occasionally some 3D rendering. My main question is regarding mixing different ram timings and stuff that I have heard about. I'm not entirely sure what RAM I have now, but it is Corsair 1x8GB and I've uploaded the spec sheet here. So yeah, if someone could suggest some RAM that would work fine in my system, that would be lovely