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Showing results for tags 'power delivery'.
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Motherboard power phases what's the best one out of these? 8+1+1 phase power supply vs 7+1+1 vs Hybrid 6+2+1 Phases. I got no idea what this means. Lga 1700 boards. Will be using 12400f. Terminator B760M GKD5 (maxsun.com) 8+1+1 ASRock > B760M-HDV/M.2 7+1+1 B760M GAMING (rev. 1.2) Key Features | Motherboard - GIGABYTE Global Hybrid 6+2+1
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Hey LTT-community, I have recently bought a new Laptop (Asus Zephyrus G14 (2024)). I wanted something I can carry everywhere and still has some decent gaming performance. But the 240W powerbrick coming with the G14 is a little chonky. However the G14 supports 100W charging over the USB4 port. So I am in the market for a 100W USB-C PD power adapter. I am currently looking at an Anker Prime 100W GaN Wall Charger or Anker 737 Charger (GaNPrime 120W). But now the horror of chosing a decent power cable. I would love to have one cable to do everything. But is that even possible. 100W charging (minimum) 40 Gbps Decent length 6ft (2m) I thought I would have to carry arround two cables. Having 40 Gbps over a length of 2 meters sounds impossible due to signal loss. Untill i came across this cable... Cable Matters 40Gbps Active USB4 Cable - 3m 40 Gbps 100W 3 meters But damn this price... Must be the cost of wanting the one cable to do it all? Or is this just to good to be true? Does LTT still do cable testing? What do you think? Greetz Mussche
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Hey guys! I ran into a setup where I got stuck and couldn't get to either make it work or to find the exact reason why it won't work. So please, help me out if you can! :) The setup: LG UltraFine 4K (24MD4KL-B) display with Thunderbolt 3 + USB-C hub in one of the USB-C ports MacBook Pro (2018) with Thunderbolt 3 connected to the TB3 input with TB3 cable Xiaomi MiBook Air 13.3" (2016) with USB-C 3.1 gen 1 connected to the TB3 input with either TB3 or USB-C cable, Windows 10 The good: The display works like a charm with the MacBook Pro, normal USB devices attached through the USB-C hub are recognized and working, MacBook is charged ---> all with a single TB3 cable The display is getting video/audio signals from the MiBook ---> with TB3 or USB-C 3.1 cable The bad: The display is not charging the MiBook, however both supports PD and the MiBook only needs 45W while the display can charge with up to 85W. I tried with TB3 cable and USB-C 3.1 gen 1 cable with PD support and none of them worked. Yes, the MiBook only has a USB-C 3.1 gen 1 port, but that's where it gets power from the original power brick and it works just fine. Also the USB-C hub and the connected devices are not showing up on the MiBook with Windows 10. The weird: Previously I had a Philips 258B6QUEB display which has USB-C 3.1 gen 1 input and also support PD (up to 60W) and it was working with both the MiBook and the MacBook without an issue (charging as well) and without any additional drivers. The question: So what am I missing? Why is the LG UltraFine not charging my MiBook? As far as I know, TB3 is backward compatible with older USB-C standards and power delivery should work. And although it's not the most important thing to get the USB-C hub working with the MiBook it'd be a nice to have. Any help would be appreciated! Have a good one, Pistabaaa^
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<SOLVED> Hi, ISSUE: I have a issue when I try to charger my new Aero 16 2022 via the 100w usb-c thunderbolt-4 port. MY ATTEMPTS TO CHARGE: First, I tried with my 87W PD power bank on the 100w thunderbolt 4 port and nothing happened. After, I tried with a 100W PD wall charger and 20W phone charger and I also tied other usb-c port on my laptop, but still nothing. Windows doesn't show any signs of charging nor the charger led near the DC jack. At last, I tried to charge when turn off but still nothing. I tried all chargers on another 100W PD laptop, tablet and phone and they all worked. MY ATTEMPS TO FIX: I contacted gigabyte support using "eSupport" 3 days ago (11/5/2023), but I'm still waiting any answer. I tried to "google it" but it was unsuccesfull. I wrote this Topic. MODIFICATION: I opened my laptop only once to install a nvme SSD. WARRANTY: I have many options: 1- I have 20 days left to refund via Neweggs.ca (but I really need the laptop now for work) 2-I have "https://www.newegg.ca/promotions/warranty/21-1290/index.html" Accident warranty for 3 years. 3-Standart Gigabyte warranty (but I broke 2 stickers on screws for the nvme installation) SPECS: Product Name:AERO 16 XE5 BIOS Ver:FB09, 2022-07-18 Model: I7-12700h / 3070 TI / 16Gb ddr5 4800mhz Operating System:Windows 11 Neweeg link: https://www.newegg.ca/p/N82E16834233529?Item=N82E16834233529 Gigabyte product page: https://www.gigabyte.com/ca/Laptop/AERO-16--Intel-12th-Gen#kf MISC: I'm sure that text is full of errors (like unnecessary "the"), English isn't my primary language. I mainly speak/write French. Thanks in advance. -
So for a while now my media PC has begun exhibiting instability, weird behaviour like stalling during going to sleep mode, inability to wake from seemingly successful sleep modes. Other issues has been one or two blue screens stating power state issues, others showing USB as the culprit. Also one instance of DPC Watchdog Violation. There were minor (possibly unrelated) issues for a while like motherboard losing time/bios settings, relatively frequent popping on my 5.1 surround. The major issues seemed to start after attaching a USB-c webcam (logitech streamcam) to the device, coinciding with the earliest issues with putting the device to sleep. It also caused graphical interference on my capture card and caused the USB bluescreen. This made me assume the webcam was the cause, and removing it did reduce the frequency of the behaviour. Then the whole PC shut down in short protection when I tried to plug a USB-c blindly in the back and hit a wrong port. Another recent issue has been the PC video and audio freezing for a very brief while every second or so for a variable amount of time. Not causing shutdowns or anything else, just making the experience unpleasant for a bit Since then issues have seemed to persist quite consistently making me assume it's a power issue, most likely on the motherboard, but I don't really know of a surefire way of determining for sure or if it may be the power supply or even something else. System specs Windows 10 pro x64 21H1 (19043.1110) Asrock x470 Master SLI Bios 4.40 (latest) Ryzen 7 2700 2x8 Corsair 3000mhz CL15 Palit Geforce GTX 1050 Ti KalmX NoFan P-500A Silent 500W NVME 1TB Intel 660p (boot) SATA 1TB Crucial 500MX Capture cards tested: StarTech PEXHDCAP60L2 and AVerMedia H727 Blue Snowball usb microphone Logitech G502 Hero usb mouse Logitech G710+ usb keyboard HERE is the results of my Sysnative analysis. I tried to run perfmon, but I've run it several times from a couple of minutes to several hours and have never succeeded in achieving a saveable result.
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Hi, I have a tablet that is connected to the PC and charged all the time even if the PC is off, I want to know if this is ok? is the PSU powering the USB ports or the board battery? specially when the PC is off thanks, Khader
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In my search for picking out parts for my PC, the motherboard has been a bit difficult for me to fully understand what to buy. However, I eventually figured some things out and found what I prioritize in a motherboard. Soon after, I searched around on the online market and singled it down to two motherboards, MSI PRO Z790-A and MSI PRO Z790-P. These two motherboards have similar specs, but with one being more expensive for, what I assume, a better quality. My question specifically resides in about the power design MSI advertises for each motherboard. The Z790-P has a 14+1+1 power design, meanwhile the more expensive Z790-A has a 16+1+1. What does this mean and how much of a difference does this make? To be more specific, I plan to eventually upgrade to an Intel i9-13900K when prices come down as the next generation of CPUs come out. If I recall correctly, the 14th gen Intel CPUs will not be compatible with Z790 motherboards, thus why I plan to upgrade to the i9 13th gen. Therefore, I want to make sure I'm able to run the i9 13th gen without, or much of, a hitch and I think power design may be very important to running that CPU. Thus I've been wondering and want to learn more on how much of a difference this makes between those two motherboards. Here are the specific motherboards I have brought up in this forum post: MSI PRO Z790-A: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/PRO-Z790-A-WIFI MSI PRO Z790-P: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/PRO-Z790-P Thank you for reading my post, I'm looking forward to any responses people may have!（˶′◡‵˶） -
I recently received a Dell WD19TB docking station. When I plugged it in to my Dell G7 17 7790 I got a BIOS warning that I was plugging in a power supply to a port that doesn't support charging. I click continue to bypass this and it boots just fine. I installed all the updated drivers and software that were suggested and even updated the firmware. (Note: it told me it couldn't update the firmware of my docking station but it did anyway). The docking station seems to work fine with the power adapter to it plugged in. If I unplug the power adapter the docking station stops working. I don't see any way to disable the power delivery either in BIOS or the software and drivers provided. However, I did find out that this particular docking station provides 130w of power through it's power delivery. This is not enough to charge my laptop as it requires 180w of power. I'm running it with both the laptop's power adapter plugged in and the docking station's power adapter plugged in. So far, so good. I'm not sure if I'm damaging anything over time or not. However, my feeling is that if I were going to 'fry' something it would've happened the moment I plugged it in and turned it on. Is this not true? Am I slowly damaging my laptop and not knowing it? -
So, I have 4 USB ports on my laptop, 2 USB 3.0 and 2 USB 2.0. I use my laptop as a desktop replacement so I need more than 4 ports. A while ago I bought this cheaper powered 4-port USB 2.0 hub (with external power), but if I plug in anything to more than 2 ports on it, the hub disconnects and windows gives me an error along the lines of "Usb device malfunction, not enough power something something" even though the USB hub is plugged in to AC power. I've tried plugging the USB hub into each of the 4 ports on my laptop. Why happen? Or is it just a shitty USB hub?
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Hey guys, a few days ago I posted about what steering wheel to get, and I got the G25 from Logitech. I've installed everything so far, but there's a problem. No matter what AC adapter I try, I can't get the "power" light on the shifter module to go full green (it flashes in full brightness a few times after starting up, but then goes dim). I'm pretty sure the required ac adapter would be 24v and 1.75 amps, but I don't have anything in my house with that number. My question is, does it actaully need the full 24v, or could I just use one with a lower voltage and higher amperes?
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Another day, another one of those "not so rosy" news for the Pixel 2 XL. Nathan K has conducted an analysis on the Pixel 2 XL's charging rate and found out that its charge rate on the supplied 18W USB-C Power Delivery wallwart was capped at 10.5W. (If you don't know who Nathan K is, he's a person who does independent testing of USB-C equipment alongside Benson Leung, although Benson works for Google while Nathan is completely independent.) Source: https://plus.google.com/u/0/102612254593917101378/posts/dnYcjUFxsg7 Nathan speculates that this could be done in order to reduce strain on the battery, which makes sense considering what happened to last year's Galaxy Note7. Source: Same as above While Google and LG would have good reasons on why they decided to be very conservative on their charge rate, supplying an 18W charger but only allowing the phone to use no more than slightly below 11W seems odd. Wondering if it would have been wise to go with a Power Delivery-compliant version of DASH/VOOC used in phones made by OnePlus and sister company Oppo.
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hi, my computer has been crashing whilst playing games eg: 'war thunder' for the past day or so. neither me nor my friend can work this out and its really bugging me that i cant play games anymore without my computer crashing and shutting down. Has anyone got any ideas about what it could be and before anyone asks, yes i have pushed all the wires in correctly. My thermaltake versa h15 case has only the blue LED on where there is usually a flashing red LED also. Thanks for any assistance. -
Hi, recently I was building a gaming computer for my girlfriend, after building it initially and turning it on, the system posted and I installed Windows on it and all the drivers. Later, while moving the computer, I dropped one end of it no more than 2 inches to the ground while the other end was touching the ground. After this, whenever I try to turn on the computer all the lights turn on in the case and the fans spin, but the peripherals now do not light up and the motherboard doesn't post. My personal rig has experienced small thumps like this regularly and has never had an issue. Just to be sure, I checked all the power supply cables, made sure the graphics card was installed correctly, tested the system with and without the graphics card, and checked the cpu socket for bent pins and reinstalled the cpu and cooler. Even after doing this the computer still won't post. Please help.
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power delivery 8pin EPS Vs 8+4pin EPS (Vs 8+8pin)
jackar posted a topic in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
I am buying new z390 motherboard for the upcoming 9900K, I plan to do moderate over lock once the guides come out. I've noticed some boards come with 8pin EPS, some with 8+8 and some with 8+8. I wonder if there is going to be any noticeable difference (lower vrm temps, more stable power delivery, ...) or any other advantage to running more then 8pin EPS, especially since we have been running x299 12c/24t on 8pin EPS motherboards without issue. I would prefer 8+8pin mobo to 8+4 one, and I am thinking I will just buy 8pin one if no preferred 8+8 one exists. Am I shooting myself in the foot by forgoing the additional EPS pins, or is the improvement marginal/PR, just like soldered dye turned out to be? Thanks -
I'm wanting to get a case with a USB-C port on the front panel and a motherboard with the internal USB-C front panel connector in order to connect to an Oculus Quest 2. I'm wondering if this connector can power and charge it. Would also be useful to charge a laptop easily. What are the USB Power Delivery specifications on this connector, if it has any? Also, is there Power Delivery on back panel connectors? -
Hello all, I run a ASUS ROG Strix SCAR III (i7 9750H with RTX 2070 configuration), and I use it for training deep learning models. All the models train for at least 8 hours and the average temperatures of the CPU and GPU are around 90C and 65-70C respectively. The Power draw of the GPU fluctuates between 80-110W and needless to say, the charger is plugged in throughout. I am concerenced about the life of the components especially the CPU(due to high sustained temperature) and the power delivery component in laptop. Is it safe to continue such use and what would be the impact on life? TIA.. -
So I've had this problem for a long time (about a 1 1/4 years) my laptop won't charge with anything more than a 45w wall charger. I've still got my official 200w brick and the 45w I'm using now is official as well, coming from their lineup in Best Buy. Specs: - Intel i5 6300HQ - 8GB DDR4 - Geforce GTX 960M - 1TB HGST (don't quote me on this) HDD 7200rpm 1080p IPS panel From what I've researched so far my best guess is the motherboard power circuit and not the port, I had replaced the port 2 weeks ago suspecting it was the problem but it wasn't. Is it even worth getting a quote from a repair company to get it fixed or would it be better to just buy a new one? I want to get back into WoW but right now my performance is cut way down because of it being a piddly little charger. If you've had the same problem or suspect what it is then I'd love to hear from you guys, thanks! I've not bothered to get help till now cause I took it to one repair store and got told it was unfixable, I'm not lazy I promise. I've had this system since December of 2016 so it might be an age thing too, I've tested both bricks on other HP laptops so I can confirm it's not the brick's fault -
I'm seeking any information anyone has read or tested themselves regarding how much wattage (volts x amps) the latest type-c motherboard headers provide for device charging purposes. In the official USB literature linked below I can only find 3 Amps listed on the last page, but nothing about Voltage is specified. https://www.usb.org/sites/default/files/USB3p1_Front_Panel_CabCon_Implment_Doc_Rev1p1.pdf I'm wondering exactly how good these ports are for charging phones and tablets. If anyone has the right electrical meters to test this themselves, it would be greatly appreciated. -
I'm hoping to fast charge my iPhone or iPad Pro off of a front panel type c port to remove the need for a power brick near my desk, but I can't find any specs about how many watts these ports deliver from those new motherboard headers. Are they supplying anywhere near the 18w minimum that iPhones and iPads use for fast charging?
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I want to charge both my and my friend's laptop, which both have USB-C PD charging ports, off of one adapter. Possible solutions would be a dual USB-C port power adapter, a single American-American AC adapter with an in-line USB-C PD port >15W. Even if we could charge one laptop at normal rates and one at a slower rate, I'm looking for anything like this. Google had a dual USB-C charger, but it's now discontinued? Quick charge is not useful in this case. Hope I'm specific enough... This is proving to be quite the treasure hunt. Thanks and Cheers! Ben
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I have few Lenovo 45W USB Type C laptop chargers that auto adjust between 5V/2A, 9V/2A, 15V/3A or 20V/2.25A and Aputure AL-F7 LED lights that uses same type of connector. Can I use these chargers for these lights? Aputure confirmed USB Type C on their lights can be used for powering them on but I wonder if Lenovo charger will be smart enough not to send 20V to them. Does anyone have more technical insight on this or used similar setup? It comes without saying none of the two manufacturers would confirm compatibility. Charger - https://www.lenovo.com/gb/en/accessories-and-monitors/chargers-and-batteries/chargers/PWR-ADP-BO-45W-PD3-Type-C-Adapter-UK/p/4X20M26260 Light - https://www.aputure.com/products/al-f7-1 Thanks. -
Hey, so to start I have had my blade for a while and I love it, the biggest problem I have had is it's terrible battery life. I can pull 4 hours if I only have like one tab of edge open. Its ridiculous. So I wanted a portable battery bank to charge it. But the razer power bank is only 12,000 mah and its $140. So I have been looking for other options, I found the imuto power bank: (I chose this one because it was light, I know I could find a heavier more powerful one.) https://www.amazon.com/20100mah-Portable-Delivery-External-Type-C/dp/B075NXR2T4 it has power delivery 2.0 at 20v 2.25 amps (45 watts) which is what the blade runs at. I have also bought a compatible usb type c cable with power delivery: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756QGTVQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but when I plug it in I hear the usb sound like when you plug in a flash drive. How do I solve this? I have checked and the battery bank charges my phone over usb type a and a Nintendo switch over type C. Does razer have a proprietary control over what power bank you can use? Is there a fix so that I can use this power bank? I have not seen a lot of threads about the stealth and power banks, so I feel like I'm treading in new territory.
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Alright,so ive been having some probs with ingame performance the past month,ive figured out most of it through hard trial and error,and with all the stuff I did,today I unplugged my CD-DVD-ROM since I havent been using it and I said why the heck not,after I did that,Im seeing a slight improve in performance,idk why but Im suspecting my PSU is starrting to fail at delivering power to all of the components succesfully.My PSU is a CX500M(yes,I know...a CX power supply in a mid range gaming system,dont throw tomatoes at me)and Ive just went through a rough summer,where I saw my HDD going up to 36 degrees,which could indicate the inside of the actual case is getting even hotter,i have 2 120mm,exhaust and intake,but Ive been informed that in temperatures above 30 degrees the PSU starts to crumble..Let me know if it can be tha,so I can order a new PSU,been thinking of either the CM series,or smth else,please let me know.
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I'm looking just for a really reliable power supply for the long term. I'll be working off of the system that the power supply goes into and the power supply will be a constant for its lifetime to keep upgrading costs down, making reliability an necessity. Nothing too crazy, I don't need over 1,000W and I'll need some upgrading room so maybe in the range of like 600W - 900W (I'm trying to be conservative about the minimum)
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I was planning on buying a MSI Z97I AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard for use with a 4690k, my main concern is will the motherboard be powerful enough to sustain a good overclock? The same question for the Gigabyte GA-Z170N-WIFI with a 6600k?
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