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What kind of cooling best fits a "white out" themed build? Sub-zero, of course! And how exactly do you get sub-zero cooling? Well, the way that WE did it was through a phase change system... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4d0B0Dli-1g&feature=youtu.be I'm going to list out the components as well as provide a source or two for where you can get them I can't tell you where to buy this stuff, but I do lean towards NCIX for the Canadians (and International viewers if their pricing and shipping costs work out for you) because they're my bros, and for Americans, Brits, and a couple other regions, the Amazon links below are affiliate links, so of course every little bit helps CORE COMPONENTS CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K Unlocked Four Core Processor with HyperThreading NCIX: http://bit.ly/1FMxUfK Amazon: http://geni.us/afZ SSD: Intel 730 Series NCIX: http://bit.ly/1OoU5Nd Amazon: http://geni.us/30Cb Motherboard: ASUS Sabertooth Z97 Mark S NCIX: http://bit.ly/1IE3LTN Amazon: http://geni.us/1jhU Case: LD Cooling PC-V10 NCIX: http://bit.ly/1yhGMu7 Amazon: http://geni.us/1h06 LD Cooling: http://bit.ly/1O44X0Y Video Card: GALAX GTX 980 Hall of Fame NCIX: http://bit.ly/1yhGTFV Amazon: http://geni.us/3G59 GALAX: http://bit.ly/1GAWrHK RAM: 32GB HyperX Fury White NCIX: http://bit.ly/1GAWy5Z Amazon: http://geni.us/3Jym Power Supply: Corsair AX860i NCIX: http://bit.ly/1aFq2lE Amazon: http://geni.us/S0M Mouse: Corsair Sabre RGB NCIX: http://bit.ly/1CFWyu5 Amazon: http://geni.us/4EGi Keyboard: Corsair K70 RGB NCIX: http://bit.ly/1aFq5Oh Amazon: http://geni.us/2hLX Monitor (gaming): Acer XB270HU Bprz 27in WQHD G-SYNC IPS 144HZ LED Monitor NCIX: http://bit.ly/1z7Ih94 Amazon: http://geni.us/1Hqk Cooling Components CPU Heatsink: NCIX: http://bit.ly/1DznxfM Amazon: http://geni.us/1h06 LD Cooling: http://bit.ly/1O44X0Y Extra Fans: NCIX: http://bit.ly/1D8Lppg Amazon: http://geni.us/nvX

Wouldnt it be worth revisitng this subject since cpus can actually bottleneck gaming preformance now? I think it would be quite interesting to see how current ryzen and intel cpus compete in sub zero overclocked conditions. What do you guys think?

Hi I am thinking about phase changing a cpu I might get in the future. It's a 7980xe and it's TDP haven't been announced. I spoke to somebody that used to have a phase change unit with a 5960x and he told me I might be disappointed because it's not designed to handle a big TDP. What would happen if the phase change was overloaded with heat? The guy says it would shutdown but I find that weird. BTW I will use this: http://www.ldcooling.com/shop/ld-pc-v2-115v-usa/192-ld-pc-v2-115v-phase-change-black-xl-suction.html

I am considering getting a couple servers and keeping them in my room. I know that servers are normally loud so i was cooling to water cool it. I also didn't want to put out more heat into my room so i had the idea to use a phase change cooler to cool the coolant (probably antifreeze) but would the temps affect acrylic or glass and is there anything else that would be wrong with this.

Hi guys&girls, Trying to source through google fu with very little success a phase change single stage(or an autocascade but i think that would be an unrealistic expectation) cooling solution for my new pc. Found tons of dead ends but no joy. dead or no longer do solutions to my understanding: dimastech ocz ld cooling frozen cpu coolerexpress originpc My google fu has failed me; hopefully an expert might be able to point me in the right direction Any suggestions would be awesome :-) PS. Planning on doing a build with threadripper. Going to be interesting if i can get the gear for it.

Hey there! I was thinking of doing a slightly more extravagant project: Using evaporation cooling to go sub-ambient with the help of every chemists best friend: di-ethyl-ether My maths shows, that at 35°C I'd only need to evaporate about 0.3g of ether every second to get about 110W of cooling. If the temperature drops, the amount decreases, but it also becomes more difficult to get the ether to evaporate. I know that without a heat source ether easily cools itself down to sub zero temps. So going sub-zero will basically only be a challenge of balancing ambient temp, surface area and the thermal power input. Now to my question: Does anyone of you have experience with something similar? Doesn't need to be ether, just pure evaporation cooling, without pre-chilled coolants? Is there anything for me to look after (except for the obvious risks of fire -read explosions- and sedating myself)?

Hello I am going to build a new PC. For the CPU I am going for a AMD Threadripper 1950X. For the cooling I am thinking of using a peltier stack and to cool the hot side of the peltier with a phase change (LittleDevil LD Phase Change) I don't really care about power usage at all. The things I would like to know is. Is this even possible? Will a phase change be able to cool a peltier stack (ranging to get around -100/-150) how bad is it for the CPU when having the PC on for 24/7 even with really good isolation.

I was just wondering if anyone here knew of any readily made evaporator heads for phase change cooling. I have found maybe two options, only one is clearly a complete unit. I want to build my own system and am not opposed to building my own evaporator head, but I would like to see if there are any that I could just buy. please and thanks <3

I am making a sub-zero phase change cooler, and I am having issues getting an evaporator block for my cpu. I don’t have the tools or expertise to make one myself, so I probably need to buy one, but I am on a budget for this evaporator block. I have found the Chilly1 cooler online, but that costs $95, so that’s a little too expensive for me. Does anyone know of somewhere I can find myself a fairly cheap evaporator block? Links would be very much appreciated.

Well folks, after playing around with my recent score (Read about it here), it does seem a little low on power and a bit high on temps, to be fair it keeps 5.5GHz @ 1.536v and validated 6GHz (6GHz) at mostly sub zero, rarely over ambient temps, though that's the problem, It should be below zero all the time, so, I'm gonna refurbish this old tiger and put some new claws on it. Currently both stages have the same gas, something the original builder had to do because he couldn't get a better one for the 2nd stage, so R404A on both. I'm in the middle of tracking down either R14 or R1150 for the 2nd stage, that should be under -100°C on cascade, and possibly a new first stage gas too, there are many different supplier over the world who recommend different combinations, and I'm by no means a super good expert on cascade. I could choose to replace the R404A in stage one with R452A, which is a similar but less damaging refrigerant. It's all rather exciting. On top of this I'm considering getting a new evap head, I'd have to wait until the unit is discharged safely after the leak test to investigate, maybe even desolder it and inspect it. Should I document the transformation from cat to tiger?

I saw this today : https://www.msi.com/blog/detail/skylake-z170-overclocking-experience-247-air-water-and-sub-zero-cooling-oc-results They used the Cooler Master Hyper TX3 EVO for air-cooling... and they got 4800mhz. It was "slightly unstable" so they settled it to 4700mhz. Is it normal or they are just bullshitting in order to sell more MSI motherboards?

Hi, made this post cause I got this mad idea. Wondering about if there is any other coolants that can go as low as -50C or lower before it freeze. I figured that ethanol can go as low as -114C. Is there any other liquids that can go as low as -50C? My idea was to connect my phase change to the loop through a cpu waterblock to cool the liquid. **edit** The phase change will go as low as -48C Any thoughts or ideas? Just a mad idea from a pc enthusiast... Also fully aware over that ethanol is higly flammable

Hi! made this post cause I wondered if my CPU can read the right temps when its minus degrees celsius. My CPU reads -11C, while my phase change is pendling between -44,5C and -45C. So is my CPU doing the right readings? **edit, Solved!! Answear: Right readings**

Amazon: http://geni.us/rLFAg NCIX: http://bit.ly/1TPWS6x If you wanna like... change your phase, man... then like... this might be the cooler for you!

Amazon: http://geni.us/1Z0v NCIX: http://bit.ly/1pnrh0j LD Cooling: http://bit.ly/1O44X0Y This is something a little different... We found this video that we made and never released in our archive, so we're releasing it now!

Well i got a vapochill XE-II off ebay for £100, this unit consists of a 1/6th hp compressor a small heat exchanger that is around the same size as a 120mm rad and mounting hardware for socket 478, 939 and 775. The cooler comes in a case which is only a bit bigger than you average full tower, however it only supports the normal size atx motherboards. It also have an LCD from panel which displays the temperature of the evaporator and also has a controller board that can automatically turn the motherboard on and off once the phase cooler has got down to temperature. In the back of the case there were 3 50mm fractal design fans This is the first test of the cooler in the case with no load. The guy who i bought it from replaced the normal fans with blue LED Xigmatek fans because he said they were quieter. closer look at the condenser The compressor is Danfoss 1/6th hp. its can be used with either R404a or r507 gas As you can see it worked and after just a few mins it was making ice With no load the evap temp can get down as far as -52c however it settles around -48c when idling with no load. Anyway as requested it has been taken out of said case and i am now mounting it on a piece of wood to make it easier to use for benching. So i went an got some MDF Drill out the rivets hold everything in and place in loose on the board for now until i decide where to place everything then i start doing a bit of testing and started with a dfi lanparty nforce ultra 3 with an Athlon 64 x2 3800+ i didnt mange to get a great score as this cpu did not like the cold The load temps were ok though. next up i tried a 4200+ in an Abit board and you can see the load temps were good during the cinebench run. So today i set it up with the different mounts for 775 and decided to test a dual core chip to start with. Now as a base for these results i did run some tests on air before. i set the voltage to a maximum of 1.5v and this was the results So now phase coolers turn In the bios at -25c cpu temp, already a good start you can see here i was running 4.6ghz on 1.55v and the phase cooler was keeping the evap at -30c. A bit later on during the bench session and the chip was scaling well with the voltage managing 4.8ghz on 1.6v, the evap was still -28c under load. And the final result at the end: it managed 4.925ghz on 1.7v the scaling was not as good at this point and in the last runs the phase was getting upto -25c Here is a better look at the full setup on 775. condenser size comparison with 120mm rad I have yet to make a full conclusion as the ultimate test will come tomorrow when i use this on my Q6600, but i am very happy with how it has performed on these dual core chips. The cooler is rated to around 200W load at around -20c to -15c. The quad core chip should push the cooler to its limits and i will be able to compare it to both air cooling and my LD cooling rotatory phase cooler which has a much higher rating of 400W load at -50C............. @ProKoN

i was just re watching linuses phase change build log and was wondering if people use phase change for a long period of time? thanks

So I have seen many people ask how to mod an air conditioner to cool their PC, which is extremely difficult. I always recommend they just buy a phase change system instead, but then they complain about price. Whenever I looked, I also couldn't find any phase change coolers for less than $1k. But I have found what I was looking for, and hopefully someone who wants to experiment with sub-ambient temps can use this knowledge This is a Hailea water chiller: It is a phase change cooling unit with a massive cooling capacity of over 3000W. It is built to chill fish tanks up to 2000L in size. And yes, its expensive. But the good news? Hailea makes a variety of chillers with a variety of power levels, and chillers about 300-800W cost less than $500 No need to spend $1500 on a phase change cooler for only your CPU, this cooler chills the water in your loop directly to cool any watercooled component you want. With the high cooling capacity you can choose to set it at a temperature (such as 20C) so that no condensation-prevention is needed (this is explained in the review) Or with some insulation you can crank it to go sub-0C Review: http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cooling/2010/07/20/hailea-hc-500a-water-chiller-review/1 Buy: http://www.performance-pcs.com/water-chillers Manufacturer: http://www.hailea.com/e-hailea/product1/HC-300A.htm Instead of trying to modify an air conditioner, which will cost almost the same and probably not even work, these are a really good alternative to the classic "phase change unit" Hope this helps you get into sub-ambient cooling

I know it's possible to OC a 4790K to 4.8 GHz on air cooling (stable) and I know it's also possible to get it to 6.0 GHz on LN2, but what I want is a phase change cooler (not sure if I should put this in water cooling or CPUs). Where should I start finding them? I'm on a slight budget, but anything phase change that works will do. Did I mention it should also be mATX or ITX? This may prove to be difficult to find. I've already done about 10 minutes of searching with no luck (only ATX cases). These cases have phase change coolers built in, so it can be built into an ITX or mATX case or seperate. Any help is appreciated.

My build is currently overeating when I made 3D rendering, the outside temperature is very high (we can reach 25-35-40 in the summer, -25 in winter). I want to build a cooling setup for my build. But a classic watercooling is too simple... So there are my ideas: Idea 1: a phase chage cooling système that cool down water for a more classic watercooling What this mean, I will use many old AC unit and modified them to make them work properly and constantly. After, I will made classic watercooling loop with two 240 rad. These two rad will be link to the phase change rad with fan to made the air transition. Idea 2: a classic watercooling, but by using a very very big car radiator. Why? Because a 500mm by 1000mm full copper car radiator can cost around 160$... This is not very expensive. If you ave any idea about parts, plans, issues, recommandation let me know! I need your help to do this If you want a build log sayt it! Sorry for my english... I am french, I made my best

OK, So I was thinking about Linus' Phase change stuff hes done recently while in the shower and it occurred to me that Mineral oil PC's may be perfect for sub ambient cooling. Mineral Oil has a high specific heat capacity so will stay very stable at whatever temp you decide to have it at, and the main problems with MOPC's seem to involve the fact that you cant let the oil get above 50C It also completely eliminates the problem of condensation as the mineral oil will insulate the MoBo from the outside air. Thoughts? Am I completely stupid? Thanks, Harry

Any good links where I can read up on it? I want to get into it

Hello everyone new to the site, not to the scene. So... I am an old school PC tech, I once had a water-cooled Athlon 1 GHz, old school, we used to use silver epoxy to short resisters near the die. That was the only way to change the multiplayer. I say this only to show where I'm coming from. I know what I'm doing, I look at my delta T. So here's the plan budget allowing. I want to build a cascade chiller If I can, but whats more likely to happen is I'm going to build a custom Phase/Peltier setup. I am going to build the refrigerator setup from scratch. It will cost more initially, however hand selecting my parts will prove to save me in the long run. Compressors aren't meant to run for days at a time, a refrigerator cycle is only like 20 mins every hour and a half. At first this problem led me to building a chiller, and circulating glycol. This way the compressor has time to rest and cool off. Now I've decided to just go straight up, and Ill leave my current PC running 24/7 for non "extreme" computer needs. I am going to use a larger scroll type compressor. Which if you not familiar with the technology is a smoother circular motion, as compared to a normal comp. reciprocating motion like a car. This makes for a smoother quieter operation. You see these in household HVAC units outside, and in nicer A/C window units. A Danfoss, or Copeland. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scroll_compressor Then I plan on using a rather larger evaporator than a usual set up for multiple reasons. The first is obviously to get better temps, but also to generally take stress off the system for long multi day runs. Like rendering. So think like 20'' by 8'' or there about. Maybe just overkill if I go with a cascade. http://www.lytrondirect.com/6340-copper-tube-fin-heat-exchanger/6340/ http://www.lytrondirect.com/6220g1-copper-tube-fin-heat-exchanger/6220g1/ In building my own setup I can focous on all the little details, instead of the tiny five dollar line drier in an A/C unit I will use a larger drier meant for a large walk-in freezer in a restaurant. A dryer keeps moisture out of your system and coolant, as it will freeze and block the pipes in your loop. The ultimate goal here is Cryogenic temps! With a standard Phase change setup I can expect temps of like negative 40 or 50 Celsius without a load, with a large wattage peltier say 250 watts I can further expect a 80 to 100 C drop. I'm talking -150C or there about! The other option Is a cascade refrigeration setup. The Idea here is basically to take the low temps of your first refrigerated loop, and to further cool them by running a separate loop. I'm explaining this badly picture two refrigerators and one cools itself from the cold end product of the other. So one evaporator is negative 40C and the second further cools too -120C or so. The down side Is having two or sometimes three compressors, twice the power, twice the noise, ect. So both achieve cryo extremely low temps, but at great energy cost, and noise. I plan on buying two standard 4 unit server cases, I'm going to put the Motherboard and whatnot in the top case, and the compressors fans pumps and whatnot in the bottom server case. I will rivet them together, and put in a 20 unit server rack, that has doors and panels to reduce the noise, and keep air moving efficently. Ok, I'm rambling, I'm here to ask everyone about there thoughts on mineral oil....??? I want to build an acrylic, plexi box. Like a sideways aquarium. I'm going to place only the mother board video and ram in ab box, within the server atx case. I want to do this to mitigate condensation, instead of sealing everything, neoprene, and electrolytic grease, and the worrying about the Northbridge, and the regulator, and the back of the motherboard, and on and on. I just think it will be easier to deal with If I just simply remove the atmosphere all together. So I know that the oil does not effect physical connections on the mainboard? right? I mean I know that it doesn't but I need affirmation. Like I hear you're supposed to fill the entire socket under the CPU with dielectric grease, this does not affect the physical electrical conductivity in the LGA, pin contacts? I see questions on other boards about mineral oil PCs and people say "what about upgrades?" And the question is always answered "It's a little messy, but it's no big deal" SO WHAT I AM ASKING IS WILL THE OIL AFFECT PIN CONTACTS ON THE MOTHERBOARD? If the mainboard is under oil, can I plug in a DIMM, submerged? If the rig is under oil, I can plug a new video card straight up right? I don't have to clean the oil out of the socket first? The physical pressure of the pins in the socket is enough to push the oil out and make a good contact right? Thanks guys in advance. This is a work in progress the only thing holding me back is cash right now. Feel free to ask me anything about this, I've made a lot of cool contacts, and I have learned a lot. There's a guy in Germany that can make custom copper evaporators for your CPU, I've seen sideways mounted GPU evaps. All kinds of great stuff. I even have a lot of info about getting R134a, and a lot of other "exotic" refrigerants needed for a cascade setup (without proper licensing), and a lot of resources about finding the right Peltier for your expected loads and what not. Thanks again I should have posted this in the new build blog, but I can't figure out how to move it :wacko:

I like know about alternative ways to prevent condensation in phase change cooled pc besides insulation. The cpu on the motherboard and the gpu on the dedicated graphics card are both cooled by phase change units to sub zero temperatures. This is only a theoretical topic. options: air seal the computer case air seal the computer case and suck out the air air seal the computer case and suck out the air and replace it with an other gas blowing air on the pc conponents with multiple high performance fans puting the pc components into an aquarium and fill it with mineral oil putting a dehumidifier into the pc case What do you guys think?

So what is it? Is it better than a custom watercooling loop? Is it a better value? What temps would you expect a 3770k to get? And is this a good deal? http://www.ldcooling.com/shop/l/85-ld-pc-v10-phase-change.html Or would this be better seeing as how i can cool my GPU to? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13091/ex-vap-20/Cooler_Express_2013_Design_Super_Evaporator_CPU_GPU_Cooling_Unit_w_Upgraded_Socket_Kit_-_All_Sockets_478_754_775_1155_1156_1366_2011_939_940_AM2_Xeon_CE-48-D-1C-1G.html?tl=g49c275s679 Thanks