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Hello I have an Asus ROG gl764g that is not powering on, no leds light up when the charger is connected. No sound, light, etc when pressing the power button. Changing the battery did nothing. I began to measure the voltages because I suspect one of the mosfets to be faulty. On picture I wrote down the voltages in V and mV. I also checked for continuity (maybe shorts) to the ground and when present indicated it with blue color of the voltages, otherwise its green. I also found some schematics of a similar board and it should be the same. I need help diagnosing the exact faulty piece. Thanks

I tried turning on my 1 year old PC today - it was used very sporadically over the past 6 months (I moved somewhere else for work and couldn't take it with me), but it was still working fine last weekend. Today, nothing happened. When pressing the power button, the PSU made a single clicking noise and nothing turned on. Well, after going through the usual troubleshooting steps (and nothing working), I finally took the PSU out and heard something rattling inside. I was so scared that I somehow let a screw fall into the PSU that killed it after a year - sweating profusely, I shook the PSU aaaand something fell out. It wasn't a screw though: it's a broken Mosfet! Absolutely beautiful sight (from my perspective of being scared that I did something wrong), but also just really interesting. Any ideas how something like this happens (apart from part failure)? I spend the past 6 month doing an internship in the electrical engineering / semiconductor business (and this is something I will definitely as my ex-colleagues about), but I'm personally still not very knowledgable on this level of hardware. For now, I opened an RMA request with Seasonic (I hope they're actually a good company and I will be helped) - is there anything else I should do? E.g. testing my Motherboard / CPU / GPU to check if something died with my PSU? Also, I would love to hear about similar experiences or stories, I'm just curious Jogius

I know it's very unlikely that x-ray device harm electronics. But I have a laptop lenovo z5070 , 7 years old it's still nice to use some basic purposes, I upgraded it with a SSD drive one year ago. 4 days ago I scanned my backpack through x-ray device at airport with 2 laptops in it I little doubtful about this but it's happened anyway. The newer laptop in it intact after the scan but the lenovo one is dead i think, no reaction when I press power button or novo button. Tried without battery, still no response, then another charger, no response. I think motherboard power circuit somehow dead. Is there chance to X-ray cause problem like this? Local repair shop says , 5V or 20V mosfets are the problem maybe. Charger is 20V 3.5A and exact model of laptop lenovo z50-70 type 80e7 . Any repair guess, help? What do you think? Laptop works fine 5 days ago. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. There is a note , one sign of life is every time I deattach and reattach the battery then press the button charge led and power led blinks then completely turn off no reaction when I press power button second time no charging led if I connect charger at this point. After reattaching battery the led says it's charging and charge adaptor making some barely noises like it's charging but when I press the button both power and charging led blinks again and noise in the adaptor shuts off. It's not like charging anymore, is there short-circuit somewhere?

Hi, I recently noticed that I have 2 chipset reading as attached, which one is more accurate? Also, I have readings called VR Loop which I read they are the VRM, however, HWINFO already shows sperate VRM reading "VRM Mosfet" as attached. can someone please explain the difference? thanks.

I saw this guy's interview with Louis Rossman on YouTube and decided to interview him. I think it's great that he's fixing these defects on Razer's machines for basically pennies on the dollar that they charge. http://www.notebookcheck.net/Specializing-in-Razer-laptops-enthusiast-repairman-aims-to-fix-what-Razer-can-t.195612.0.html

Hi guys I'm going straight to my problem. One of my Titan's died a couple of days ago. The model is this one https://www.asus.com/Graphics-Cards/GTXTITAN6GD5 After the shutdown of death, I removed the card and saw one of the vrm mosfets on smoke! Don't ask why, I always had perfects temps, not overclocked, voltage@1V max. I removed the burnt mosfet to replace it but the thing is I'm out of warranty and Asus won't give me any info on the mosfet part number.(as expected) So I'm asking if there is anyone who may know sth about the mosfet models used for the Titan or at least where I could find a similar one. I'm willing to give a try before throwing the card. (the photo shows which mosfet is missing)

Hello fellow Linus followers (for whatever reason) So in their recent RGB chair video, they did something with an Arduino, a breadboard and a few MOSFETs to control the RGB LEDstrips. I have to do pretty much the exact same thing for a school project, except for controlling them from a Raspberry Pi. The only problem is, I have no clue what type of MOSFET I need and what to look for in the datasheet. To be honest, I don't even know what the MOSFET does at this point. My question is: What type of MOSFET did Linus use in the RGB chair video, or what types can I use for this purpose? I currently have the FQP7N40, but they don't seem to work.. I found this tutorial which I followed (http://dordnung.de/raspberrypi-ledstrip/), but I can't get the ones they use as the shipping times are like a few months and the project is due in not that long.. Thanks in advance and kind regard, Cyborgium

TL;DR! My post was WAAAY too long, so here's a TL;DR version. Feel free to read the original full post after this one. What is it? It's a project to create the ultimate über fan controller. However i want to add so many features that i may call it case controller. Now, i have a PCB designed, and i'll make a first batch. Main features : control of 6 PWM channels for fans, led strips, or whatever uses 12V and can be PWM controlled, 256 levels between fully off and fully on; high power for each channel, at least 30W max per channel (i'm very conservative); 6 plugs for temperature probes, normal or waterproof, this number can be increased a lot (hundreds) and easily; 5x analog inputs for potentiometers, analog sensors or whatever; 5x digital input (buttons, digital sensors) or outputs (leds, 5v leds strips, adressable LEDs...); shared with analog inputs, so it's 5 total; 3x I2C plugs, for sensors (gazillons of I2C sensors are available) or output devices (text LCDs, OLED LCDs, sound devices, etc); extensible up to 127 devices on the bus; real time clock for whatever use we can have for that; controlled by an Arduino Nano (2$ board), so can be programmed/upgraded via USB (soon to be with ESP32 chip, adding more power, wifi, bluetooth); draws power from a molex or whatever source providing 12V and 5V; can control individually adressable LED strips, with RGB (meaning whatever color for whatever LED of the strip independently from the other LEDs); open source, open hardware, so extensible; monitoring each fan speed; can print things on LCDs; can send data to PC; can receive data from PC; can work with or without the PC. State of the project Now i have a PCB designed, i'll soon order a first batch. I have all components in my stash. This is the first prototype : Most of the features mentioned here have already been tested, i have yet to test a board implementing all of those at the same time. I want to make a device with the community, without any consideration for commercial stuff or whatever, the idea is to make a cool device, with other people, have people modifying it, adding their code, etc ... The board is 50*70mm (2*3 inches approximately) and has 4 mounting holes. i'll make a 3D printable box to put it in a PC case, and a 5"1/4 tray for it later (in an optical bay, with an LCD in the front? what do you think guys?). By the way, it can also control watercooling stuff, the probes can be waterproof or not (no difference in code just a slight cost increase per probe for the waterproof version) and we can add flow sensors in the watercooling loop, or PWM control the pump or whatever you want. The whole board is relatively cheap to produce (should be 20-30€ for a complete unit), simple to assemble, and that's the first version i have. it will improve over time. However, i'd like to hear from you guys what should be included on such a device, what killer feature have you not seen on other fan controller/case controllers? what sensors would you have in your PC, smart desk , server cab or whatever? what would you want to control automatically? And don't hesitate to throw crazy ideas, many can in fact be implemented easily... Next post is a detailed version of this post, with technical details about many things, you don't have to read it, it's there for those who want to investigate further. Don't hesitate to ask me anything about this project.

DFI P55 T3eH9 MOSFET fried when i tried to turn it on. Luckily it didn't kill the CPU or other components. Two MOSFET fried, the rest are assumed short, and there were no leaked/ exploded caps. I want to replace the MOSFET chips on it. But, there's something that made me a little bit confused: info on the MOSFET chipsWhen i searched the MOSFET, it was found that it came from Magnachip. MDU2657 and MDU2655. But, what made me confused is the AJ217AGG and AF218AGG1. What does AJ217AGG and AF218AGG means in Magnachip MOSFET?2. I found lots of MDU2657 and MDU2655 chips on Ebay, but unlike mine. Does this AF218/ AJ217 whatever really matters? Like, they're must the same if you want to replace the MOSFET yourself? So far i only found MDU2657-DD047EGF and MDU2655-EC147DGG. There were NONE of MDU2657-AF218AGG and MDU2655-AJ217AGG chipsImage of fried MOSFET (picture taken before the red marked MOSFET fried)

First i just want to say that I don't have much experience on forums...so if this is in the wrong spot sorry about that... So, I have a Samsung Induction top range with a Mosfet that shorted out. While switching the boards, I noticed the new Mosfet doesn't have any thermal paste between the heat sink and the backing of the Mosfet. Instead there appears to be a thin plastic shim. Is Samsung intentionally sabotaging its components to force people to purchase new appliances? I'm at a loss as to why they would do this... Should i remove the shims and replace with thermal paste? Should i just leave it in and repair the old board for the future? Am I freaking out over nothing? Old thermal paste New plastic shims...

My hotbed simply won't heat up. It is upgraded with a Mosfet installed by someone else (bought secondhand). I opened up the box portion with the PSU and saw the power cable to the Mosfet from PSU had fallen out it was so loose. I rewired it with solder and though for sure that was the fix. Put it back together, no go. Bed doesn't raise in temp at all. I take it back apart and now an additional power cable and ground cable going to the mosfet had fallen out. At this point I think for sure this is the problem, and I take out, and properly solder all 4 of the main wires for the mosfet installed, and test all cables relate to the hotbed to make sure are all firmly installed and no looseness. After this, turned on the printer, and it immediately heated like a champ to 70C, and started printing. 1.5 hours into its 5 hour print and the bed temp drops off again, eventually down to ambient. Now its back like it was, not heating up at all even after 25 min. I took it apart, rechecked every cable going to/from the mosfet, and they are all still good. Worth noting before it seemed to randomly work sometimes after sitting for a few days. Seemed to begin working again with no rhyme or reason. Im very confused, printer has been down for almost 1.5 months because I've been busy with other things. Im not sure what some other failure point are.

Hey folks, currently building a budget second hand pc for my gf. One mosfet from the EVGA GTX 670 I bought on Ebay exploded when I started the PC, just saw a lot of smoke, but no flame. Can the card work without one mosfet? Or is the risk to high to fry the rest of the system? Other components are mostly from my old build: CPU: i5-6500 Mobo: AsRock B150m Pro 4s RAM: 2x4GB G.SKill DDR4-2133 PSU: Bequiet Pure Power 400w

So I have had my UD3 for a while now, like 2 years and at stop it is just fine however when I over clock 1.4v @ 4.5 ghz after about 5 mins of stress i get cpu clock drops. Now I believe this is due to the mosfets (attached image) getting too hot. See that is a dead spot in my case and if I was running an air cooler it would probably be ok, the stock heatsink blows air downwards thus cooling the mosfets. However I have a h100i so as I said zero airflow. Anyone have any ideas on how to nicely cool the air?

Hello there Just a quick question about my GPU, I currently own a Gainward GTX 1070 Phoenix GS edition and am wondering if there are any water cooling solutions for it. On https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/ it says a VGA Universal water block is available but I will need to arrange passive cooling on ram and mosfet chips, how does one arrange passive cooling. I thought passive cooling meant it cooled itself. Thank you for your time

Hey there everyone So I came home from work yesterday and turned on my computer and heard the beautiful sound of electrical failure, followed by the smell and sight of glorious white smoke. Shut the PC off fast as anything and opened it up to check what was cooking. Found a MOSFET that had popped and most certainly that was the smoke I saw (and my roomed reeked off). On further investigation I found out that when swapping CPU coolers, some thermal paste had somehow, some way fallen into the RAM slot. I'm guessing it shorted something. So my ASUS V-GENE is dead, so I will need a new motherboard and with that new RAM and a CPU as well. So I guess it is time to say goodbye to my 3570K and Vengeance RAM, served well. I was wondering if any of you had any good recommendations for a combo here, my case size limits me to M-ATX. My workflow is basically playing games like Witcher III, and whatever else doesn't suck at a given time, light photography editing and occasional video editing. ATM I have 2x GTX 670s in SLI - which the motherboard below does not support (SLI), but I intend on getting a GTX 1070 soon anyhow, and who knows, maybe my motherboard fried up some more stuff on its way out anyway. I mean this seems pretty straight forward, I was just thinking about going for a 6600K or 6700K, a mid tier MSI Z170 Motherboard (ignore the dank gamer MSI marketing) and some HyperX Fury RAM. I do want that ASUS VIII-GENE, but the money saved could be put towards a GTX 1070 or 6700K so. What ya bois think? If nothing else feel free to laugh at my misery

tl;dr: I want to buy some Enzotech MOS-C1 kits to cool my VRMs. Scared of the sticky tape they come with falling off and the heatsink shorting something out. Thinking of buying Arctic Silver Alumina or other thermal adhesive to make sure the heatsinks never come off. http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708011 http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100013

Hello Guys, Help me please. I'm in need a mATX, A88X motherboard. The only ones that are available on my favorite local store are the following: MSI A88XM-E45 Gigabyte GA-F2A88XM-HD3 Asus A88XM-A My dilemma is that I kinda like the gigabyte because it's pure black without accent colors, but I noticed that it does not have a heatsink on the MOSFET unlike the MSI. I plan to use A10-7850k and overclock it to 4.2 or 4.4 maybe. Does the heatsink in the MOSFET really matter? Please enlighten me guys, which is best between the three to use when overclocking. Thanks

Researchers at the University of California - Santa Barbara and Rice University, in Houston, have announced a breakthrough in transistor design and materials. Expanding on the so-called "Tunnel Field Effect Transistor" it utilizes a new material media consisting of molybdenum disulfide and germanium. It shows promise by switching at voltages as low as 0.1V and offering reduced power dissipation of up to 90%. There has been some chatter back and forth, and in the comment sections of some of these other news outlets, how this could lead to improvements or migration into processors and other dense circuitry. I do not have the knowledge of these things to say one way or the other but if these kinds of improvements in efficiency, process, and size could be made use of in CPUs, GPUs, or other IC's/Memory applications, it could vastly improve power draw, heat, speed, and utility. There are so many varied and interesting improvements constantly percolating in materials science, designs, fabrication, etc. As they start to connect with each other and find applications the future is going to be interesting. Source: http://hexus.net/tech/news/industry/88877-mos2-tfet-transistor-operates-voltages-low-01v/?utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=facebook Source of the source: http://www.eetimes.com/document.asp?doc_id=1328443&

Hello, I have that kind of an issue, my mobos VRM (or mosfet I suppose) is running extremly HOT. Like... SUPER HOT. The heatsink itself is very hot even in idle, I cannot hold my finger on it even for like 8 secs, and the sealed coils, that are just near the VRM heatsink are even hotter. In idle it really burns my finger, if I try to hold it for more than 1 sec. Due to this fact, I believe, I cant get stable overclocks on my system (Athlon 860k) as cpu starts to drop voltage right after the stress test begins ( even on 4.0 ghz). I am highly concerned, that VRM overheat is the reason, cuz if I turn motherboard thermalthrottle off, then my pc shuts down after a few secons of stress test on cpu. I have aftermarket cooler on my cpu (xigmantek loki II) and the airflow from the fan is too high to touch VRM, so it gets only a fraction of cooling by the airflow in the case. If I would somehow place like Xsilense 60mm fan over the VRM to cool it, will it help? I am just suprised vrm is still not glowing red...

Hey guys, I'm interested in aftermarket passive MOSFET and southbridge coolers (since they seem like a good way to colour match the motherboard with the rest of the build), and I was wondering if any of you have had any experience with them. Also, I want to know what sizes and how many I would need - specifically for the msi Z87 GD65 motherboard. Here are the MOSFET and southbridge coolers which I was looking at. MOSFET: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18194/vid-205/Heatsink_MOSFET_Chipsink_-_17mm_x_17mm_x_9mm_-_Anodized_Green.html?tl=g40c16s1859 Southbridge: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18213/vid-223/Low_Profile_Chipset_Heatsink_w_Thermally_Conductive_Adhesive_-_37mm_x_37mm_x_8mm_-_Anodized_Green.html?tl=g40c16 Thanks for your assistance -Billy

Hello, I purchased a Asus P9X79 pro motherboard and I wanted to water-cool the mosfet. I looked on the ek website but the mosfet is EOL unfortunately. Is there a similar one that is still produced that will fit? thanks

As the title says, my motherboard does not have any cooling on the mosfets, do I need it for a stable OC? Would something like this work? http://www.moddiy.com/products/Micro-Thermal-Heatsink-for-Motherboard%27s-MOS-%286.5mm-x-12mm%29.html Also if I do need them how many do I need to get? Motherboard is a MSI FM2-A75MA-E35 Thanks for the help

I need to find waterblocks for the motherboard i have in this build, http://pcpartpicker.com/parts/partlist/, i know its completely impractical, its for looks. preferable acetal and nickel. i would prefer a full motherboard block but a seperate chipset and mosfet block is fine. Thanks

Hi guy, I got a new PC. I assembled it and when I powered it on for the first time there was a spark and one of the MOSFET of my motherboard blew out. It litrally blew out of the motherboard and fell on the floor. But the PC did start normally. The mosfet was little below the CPU Fan pin. Once the mother board started it gave CPU fan error. I had plugged my NZXT Kraken x61 in it which didnot work so i had to shut down immediately and put the Kraken in the CPU Optional Fan header in which it worked. Now whenever I start my PC it gets stuck at CPU Fan error before windows loads up. So then I put one of my chassis fan in cpu fan to see if it boots but the chassis fan also stopped working and still it did not boot. Then I changed the boot priority to Disk and it did boot to my windows on my HDD after skipping the "Press any key to Boot fromm CD/DVD" screen. Now the motherboard is working fine except the CPU Fan header and sometimes the NZXT CAM software not reading temperatures correctly and I cannot change the fan speed and led light color till I restart. I will be giving the Motherboard in warranty. But I want to know if there was any of my mistake of I just got a bad product and also the NZXT CAM software problem is a hardware issue or software issue. Thank You

Has anyone herd of any aftermarket mosfet waterblocks for any motherboard. I'm going to be getting a haswell board soon and I would like to put water cooling on the mosfets but I haven't seen anything besides the stock solutions on some boards. Thanks! This could also be an opportunity to create a list of these solutions as well.