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Showing results for tags 'issues'.
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Hello, since I built my pc I have been experiencing freezes and lags although I have a good cooler for my cpu, and a decent gpu and cpu. I have tried swapping the ram, and it fixed the problem a little bit, I have thoughts that it might be my vertical gpu mount but I want to know first what the issue can be. I have'nt experienced a BSOD but after my pc has been on for a while (can change from time to time how long it takes until it does that) I also have a pretty reliable ssd that have good reviews and all my drivers are up to date too. The thing I'm a bit worried about is that my ram rgb is lagging when my pc is on heavy (but not that heavy) load, could it be the Icue software that causes this freezing and lag? Could it be the power outlet? If you want specs and temps here they are: 5700X 35-57C° 4070 28-70C° 64gb 3200mhz ram Nothing is overclocked I am reposting this because of no answers on my last post. Just a reminder if you want to see my replys and stuff make sure to follow the topic, thank you.
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Hello LTT community, I'm reaching out for help regarding an Intermittent issue I've been experiencing with my PC. Here are the details of my system: PC Specs: Phanteks Evolv Shift Air CASE Ryzen 1800x CPU AMD 6750xt GPU (with Phantkes riser cable) Deepcool 850 ATX PSU Aorus B450i Mini ITX MOTHERBOARD 8x2 (16GB) DDR4 Corsair Vengeance RAM 2133 500GB NVMe DRIVE Noctua NH-L9i CPU Cooler No keyboard or mouse Software Information: Windows version: [Latest] GPU Drivers: [Latest] BIOS F61 (2021) The Issue: Sometimes my computer fails to POST. When this occurs, the fans and lights turn on, but there's no display on the screen. However, there are instances when the PC boots and functions normally. Troubleshooting Steps Taken: I've already tried the following solutions without a consistent fix: Replaced PSU (Seasonic 650w previously) Replaced RAM (TeamGroup previously) Replaced GPU (GTX970 previously) Cleared the CMOS BIOS defaults Tried HDMI and DP outputs on GPU (Various cables) Tried running with one stick of RAM Added a "motherboard speaker" (error beeps: LONG SHORT SHORT SHORT, indicating a problem related to the video card - AGP error) Various actions like powering off the PSU, turning the PC on and off, waiting, clearing CMOS, reseating RAM/GPU, and unplugging/plugging DP or HDMI cables. Checked that all PSU cables were properly connected. Ensured GPU and RAM were fully seated. Noctua NH-L9i CPU Cooler is installed properly. (Temperatures are normal when PC boots) Different wall outlet Fresh Windows install Additional Notes: The motherboard speaker beeps indicate a video card problem, but the issue is intermittent and challenging to pinpoint. Occasionally, the PC boots after powering off the PSU, turning it on and off, waiting, clearing CMOS, reseating RAM, and unplugging/plugging the display cable. (one or a combination of these) Notably, the beeping error does not always prevent the PC from booting. Plugging the DP/HDMI cable after the beeps sometimes causes the PC to boot and function normally. Steps Not Yet Tried: Update to the latest BIOS version for the Aorus B450i Mini ITX motherboard. Consider testing with a CPU with onboard graphics (if available) to eliminate potential GPU-related issues. Thank you in advance for your assistance! Best regards, -
This has been happening for a while but I never really cared to even think about it due to it not effecting my pcs performance. Though I see it as a cars check engine light. I'd rather know what the issue is know instead of letting it cause a big incident in the future. If anyone has a clue as to why this is the case please let me know! I've tried what I saw on a topic similar to the about turning off quick start up, but that was already disabled to begin with.
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Hello, I recently bought a used PG27AQDM. Once I set it to 240hz 1440p, the screen tears/"wiggle" from time to time on the desktop, and especially in games (starcraft 2). I tried setting it to 1080p/240hz and 1440p/120hz and I've had zero trouble, but in 1440p/240hz it "tears" and sometime the screen goes black for a couple seconds. I have an msi gtx 1080ti, 32go of ram, a i5 7500 and I use a 1.4 Display port cable. It is still under the 2 year warranty. Should I send it back or is it the GPU that is bottlenecking me ? I'm almost done with my next build using a rx 6850xt and a 13700k i7, so should it keep that monitor for the new build ? I thank you all very much in advance, Sash
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Just finished building a new PC and everything works great, there's just this one annoyance where the VGA diagnostic light on my motherboard will stay on if i turn my PC on before my monitor. Everything works fine when this happens so there doesn't actually seem to be an issue with my GPU, especially since the issue doesn't happen if i have my monitor on before i turn my computer on. I've already tried reseating the gpu and tried every display port on it and still no change. The motherboard is an ASUS Strix B550-F updated to the most recent bios version, and the gpu is a 6900xt with most up to date drivers. Has anyone experienced something like this before? any ideas on possible fixes? -
Hi. I have rx570 Saphire edition with 2 HDMI ports. I also have 2 monitors with only VGA ports. When I connect each monitor individually via HDMI to VGA adapter they work fine, but not together. Simultaneous connection results in both showing bios loading, then Windows starting and after few seconds both lose signal. If I plug in one monitor using the abovementioned adapter as usual and another screen using HDMI port without any adapter, they also work great. I assume problem lies in using 2 HMDI to VGA adapters at the same time. Drivers are up to date. Monitors are Samsung and ViewSonic. Windows display settings are set correctly, since they work fine with 2 monitors if only one of them uses adapter. Has anyone had similar issue? What can be the solution?
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Edit: I got it working. I realized that my boot drive was on a sata ssd that the cable wasn't working. So my m.2 is working and fixed. Thanks for the help homies. I need help with my pc not booting into os. I recently moved houses and I plugged in and my booted my pc and it loaded at first. I had 2 case fans out so I changed them before I completed my setup. Afterwards it wouldn't lose os through my m.2 boot drive. Idk why it won't load. It reads m.2 as boot drive but doesn't read it as anything else.
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Currently on hold with Cox, but I feel like the LTT community will be 10x more helpful Currently running on Cox 1Gb fiber. Everything is "okay" so far, except for my roommates down in the basement. We are 5 people living in the same house, but some have issues with the internet. I was looking to buy a modem and a router but then realized that I would have no coax to hook up the modem. My question (as stated in the title) is, does the ONT box, that was installed by Cox, work as the modem? Could I just plug in a router, set it up, and have running wifi? I'm looking at the ASUS RT-AX82U currently, but I also don't see it on the Cox website as a "certified" device. Thank you all in advance.
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Hello All, I am looking for guidance on what to do. Razor warranty is absolutely absurd. Our son bought a 2021 Razor 15 Advanced Model (Early 2021) RZ09-036. I have worked on PC's since I was probably about 12 years old and looked into his issues and determined it's most likely in need of a new motherboard. I am not sure why, as I did not pull it apart since he paid for extended coverage and I didn't want to hurt his chances of having them work on it/support it. But seems it's a bad MB. Windows installs but outside of that you cannot use the system (sluggish responsiveness/ non-responsive when trying to do any task once installed. Either way the issues are not important as the fact it's been to Razor 2 times now with no resolve, and it needs to go back a third time. Not only do they make him wait a week OR MORE for a shipping label to send it it, they are repeatedly asking for the same videos of the operation over and over again. (even though there is really nothing to show) I even wrote a letter the last time explaining the issues and put it into the laptop so they would have to read it when working on it. Nothing... So he calls this last time, not only does he still not have a shipping label to return it but once again they are asking for another video (even though he already sent one) before they will do anything. To make matters worse the last representative, Hector (my son had him on speaker so I could hear) started to belittle him and tell him he doesn't know computers and that there is no way it could come there 2 times and not be fixed and he is lying to them. He said Razor are all professionals and there is no way they would ever send back a system that isn't working and he needs to rethink what happened. I was here when he pulled it out of the box, it still was NOT working!!! My son has been without a laptop now for almost 3 months since this started and Razor is continuing to play games with him and not actually support their product. Does anyone know who we can talk to? When you ask for a manager NOTHING happens!! I have learned that I will NEVER buy a Razor product EVER and I will tell everyone I know not to waste your time or money. We have had it back for over a week and they still have yet to send a shipping label and continue to jerk him around the process. We have a very expensive paper weight, he paid for coverage for and they are not helping with it. I can understand it not getting fixed, it happens. I work in the service industry, it's called troubleSHOOTING for a reason. But what's not ok is to talk down to him and drag out the process for weeks at a time with apparently no resolution and the fact they have had it twice now and they are saying he's making it up. Does anyone have any GOOD ideas of what to do next? He needs his computer for school and Razor is worthless right now.
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White light on motherboard (shows display)
VemmyPcs posted a topic in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
Hello, I have been experiencing some issues with my Asus GA35DX lately it has Ryzen 7, X570, 64GB RAM, 1TB SSD + 3TB HDD, WiFi 6, 750W Gold PSU (Gpu is an Asus Tuf 3080) there is a white light and it sometimes does not want to turn on. I received this yesterday, the first issue was it did not turn on after I took it out of the box when I disconnected the USB dock I had purchased that had my keyboard and mouse connected it decided to turn on (I looked at my manual and saw that I had to plug it there and even checked other ports with the same problem) it was also posting a light that I searched up for asus motherboards that had an issue with the ram but I simply powered it down and waited a bit and never saw that light. I also updated my drivers and had the same problem with the white light. I have also been seeing that my gpus performance is terrible about 150 fps on the ground on Fortnite (on medium and epic settings same results). As well as my Microsoft store not letting me download apps and is stuck at "pending". Also, I have never had my gpu fans spin. LTT LTT (2) LTT 3 LTT 4 -
When I watch YouTube on Every browser my screen is glitching I messed with the settings and nothing worked VID_20220720_230922.mp4
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Hello everyone, so, I have this weird problem with my Motherboard, where every USB port on it would randomly just stop working for a couple seconds and then work again. I've checked the drivers and tried to find if it's a hardware problem by booting into a live boot of Ubuntu MATE 18.04.5, sure enough I was unable to recreate the issue there. At this point I genuinely have no idea what could be causing it, keeping in mind, that I haven't updated the BIOS and I didn't have that issue before, on the same BIOS version (I don't remember what BIOS version I have). Here's my PC's specs if that helps: Motherboard: Asus Prime B350 plus CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X GPU: Nvidia GeForce RTX 360TI Memory: 2x 16 GB Corsair Vengeance RGB RS PSU: BeQuiet Pure Power 10 (500W) Thanks in advance. Edit: I've just tried to install a newer version of the Chipset driver to see if that helps as suggested by GOATWD. Unfortunately the problem still persists.
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Help i'm trying to add a 3rd router to my network. the 2nd one was a tp link so it was much easier but this one is an old router. is there anyone who knows how to do this that can teach me the steps please
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I've been using a red-dragon m602 for probably 2-3 years now and I wanted to replace it with something with a decent sensor. Whenever I tried to play csgo and try to hit dem awesome flick's my mouse would over spin and go the opposite direction. I picked the logi g502 hero because it seemed to have a good enough sensor and was in the 40-50$ budget I had. When I first got the mouse it felt great, and then 2-3 days in the right click broke. Whenever I'm holding down right click and do anything else with my keyboard/mouse it can randomly unclick. I've tried it in 2-3 fps games every single one I have the issue in, very disappointed. Will return it asap and get something different. Is there anything similar to the rd m602 or logi g502 hero in size/ergo's that doesn't either have a terrible sensor or breaks instantly? -
On my old computer I never had to reset my graphics driver to play any game without it crashing. On my new computer I have to do Ctrl + Win + Shift + B to reset the driver so I can play games. Games effected: Forza Horizon 4 Need For Speed Payback Valorant Minecraft With Shaders (I don't have many games on my pc) -
Every single time I want to play a game on my pc i have to Shift + win + B + ctrl to reset my graphics driver. On my old computer it was never like that. Please help. Specs: (got ripped off lol) Intel Core i7 11700F RTX 3070 Factory OC 32GB Ram DDR4 3000Mhz Predator GM7000 1TB
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My wifi has stopped working I’ve tried resetting my router, resetting my settings, factory reset, control prompt codes, delete and installing fresh drivers and entering Google’s DNS and still nothing is working does anyone know how to fix this? I’m windows 11 if that helps cheers.
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Hello, I have FH5 on Steam on my PC, and I have tried everything under the sun to try and get this game to open. I have verified the files, uninstalled completely and reinstalled it, updated windows, updated my GPU drivers, reinstalled MS C++ libraries, closed background applications, set the game to run as admin, reset MS store, disabled fullscreen optimizations, but nothing. I haven't played the game since almost a year ago, and I don't remember ever having this issue. I also cant seem to find a potential error code in event viewer. For more detail on the issue itself, I will go and try to open the game, the small "splash screen" or whatever that's called flashes for a few seconds, then it disappears and doesn't open. I am not resetting my windows installation just to play this game, so what else can I do?
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Hi. I have a self built desktop which i recently switched parts in and now im having issues with the computer completely shutting down randomly. It shuts down randomly when im playing games or just watching netflix. I recently switched from an I7-8700k cpu, msi motherboard and corsair vengeance ram where i had no issues. The PSU was used in the previous build for 6 months with no issues I'ved tried updating the bios, checking bios settings, checked all cables on the motherboard and psu, updating drivers, ran different 3Dmark stress tests and checking the cpu for issues but this has lead to no change. The pc has completely shut down most of the time except 1 BSOD. These past days ive had 8 complete shut downs. (08.06 - 2 shutdown, 10.06 - 2 shutdown, 11.06 - 2 shutdown|1BSOD, 12.06 - 2 shutdown) Could this be a Motherboard or PSU issue? CPU, mobo, ram and aio is brand new while the psu is about 6 months old. My specs: CPU - AMD Ryzen 7 7700X Motherboard - ASUS TUF Gaming B650-PLUS WIFI RAM - G.Skill DDR5 6000MHz 32GB PSU - Corsair RM850e 850W AIO - Be Quiet Pure Loop 360mm
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I was recently having some power issues with my pc. It wouldn't turn on so I brought it into a pc repair shop to get an estimate. Long story short they recommended that I replace my PSU (Previously had an EVGA 850w 80 plus gold, Now upgraded to EVGA 1000w 80plus gold). They were gonna charge me $250 to replace it, so I decided to just do it myself after watching a few YouTube tutorials. After unplugging everything and replacing a few power cables, I noticed a couple of things. Firstly, they broke my SATA data cable and tried to tape it together with scotch tape. Secondly, I noticed that a few cables from my GPU power adapter were disconnected. (Video Linked Below) Here's my question, is it normal for this 12pin to 8pin adapter to be disconnected like this? For reference I have a NVDIA 3070 FE. 20230626_235814.mp4
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Hello people, First, a prelude: As an unwitting owner of a laptop with the much maligned Realtek 8821AE WIFI chip, much like most of you I ran into certain issues. Disconnects, hangs/slowdowns of the whole machine while apparently it's not doing much, inability to connect back to any 5Ghz network if I choose to manually select a network and God forbid click the 'Disconnect' button, etc., etc. I am Windows 10, updated with the latest driver from the manufacturer's website. No amount of clean installs or solutions online worked, aside from maybe using a very old driver which may or may not have performance issues too. Unfortunately, the new drivers have been uploaded to MS servers so Windows Update kindly gives them back to you. Somewhere while looking online for this for the N-th time I stumbled on some linux forums stating they too have issues, one comment of which stood out to me - PCI bus and timing issues. *insert gears moving gif* There is a particular tool called MSI mode utility v3 (*LINK*, read the thread if you have the time, its interesting and you will context for what you are doing) which allows you to easily switch between INT and MSI interrupt modes for devices on PCI lanes. By default, drivers and hardware decide which to use - WIFI chips use MSI mode (newer, better), while some GPUs still use INT mode (older, currently somewhat simulated, more compatible). Lo and behold, no more issues! For good measure, I disabled the capability of the WiFi chip to sleep too, but that by itself had no effect earlier, so the real solution is INT mode. No more hangs, no more 5Ghz issues and I can switch networks in peace. TL;DR: I switched the 8821AE from MSI mode to INT mode using the tool from the link above and this SOLVED things for me! (pic included) This is not a very small change and is reversible and is essentially a small registry tweak. It should not break your system. Still, you do this at your own risk. Comment below with your results.
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Can't overclock, tried alot of things, Nothing seems to get it to work. Using an AMD Radeon HD 8790m with a i7-4800MQ. Any fixes or is it just completely locked forever? I couldn't even get it to undervolt! (Note, I'm using Dells GPU drivers because the official drivers bluescreen.) It seems important that you the reader should know that im using the adrenalin drivers.
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hi everyone, i just bought a new cpu cooler and i installed it and the pc launches and the fans whir and LEDs turn on but none of my connected devices (kb+m, monitors, headset) get signal, i see no physical damages made to the motherboard, i see no troubleshooting lights, etc. I have tried resetting bios, cmos and unplugged and replugged all the cables. I tried connecting monitors to cpu that didnt work either. Do i need to take this to a repair shop or is there a possible solution at home. -
Hey everyone, First of all I apologize if I'm writing in the wrong section I am very new to the forum. Also please excuse my English as it is not my first language So I bought a WD SN850 SSD, since I happened to catch it at a reasonable price. The thing is advertised as being able to push 7000Mb/s read and 5300Mb/s write. That being said, I've ran Crystal Disk Mark a couple of times on it, and it is only able to reach 3500/2500. I have one other SSD from WD that is performing exactly like expected. One thing that I have to note is that the WD SN850 is Gen 4.0, but my motherboard (Asus Maximus XI) has Gen3.0 x4 Nvme slots. I was pretty silly to buy the ssd before reading the manual, but from what I understand Gen3 should be able to push 15Gb/s, so why is my SSD pushing half of what's advertised? Could it be faulty? Is it really because of Gen4.0 vs Gen3.0 slot? Or am I missing something? (probably the most likely possibility) Just to tick some boxes: BIOS is updated Windows is updated SSD firmware is updated WD dashboard says drive health is normal (100%) WD S.M.A.R.T extended diagnostic found no problems with the drive Anyways, thanks in advance for any help, be sure to ask me for more specs if you think the problem might be coming from somewhere else. And again sorry for my likely ineptitude.
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Hi guys, i`m Shane and i have a lot of problems with my build. This is a long story, full of inexcpected twists and studded with frustation, written as a last effort before i LITERALLY BURN MY COMPONENTS IN MY BACKYARD. It all started almost a year ago when on a the verge of a pandemic lockdown i decided to build my new PC.. here are the original specs: Ryzen 5 3600 stock cooler Sapphire Pulse RX580 8gb 2x8Gb of DDR4 Patriot viper steel 3200Mhz Be quiet! system Power 9 700w PSU B450 Aourus Elite rev1 Everithing bought from an italian online reseller (HW1.it) except for the GPU bought from amazon.it When i first assembled all the components i noticed that my pc suffered from random reboots and it was almost unusable, the win10 logs reported a kernel power error, so not a good start.. i reinstalled the operating system multiple times and i also used a dual boot manjaro system for a while, tried disabling XMP but nothing changed.. So i rma my card (amazon client service is awesome) and i got my money back. I bought an asus gtx 960 2gb cause i found it used at a really good and low price and installed it, the system now doesn`t crash but it was just the beginning. Now the fun part, i noticed some minor problems, mouse scattering, and wifi connection issues. The problem is that my wifi pcie card (ubit intel wifi 6 ax 200 with bluetooth) shows up and run but very slowly like 1mb/s dwnl and after some time it disconnects as if i removed it from the motherboard. Correct drivers are installed. So i thought that the adapter could be the problem and i bought a usb wifi adapter, installed it and got almost 60mb dnwl and 10ms ping, everything ok right? Well NO. The adapter keeps connecting and disconnetting from the system (like every 5 sec) till it doesn`t reconnect at all. Updated motherboard BIOS to F60ver with no changes. The solution to this problem is to use my old HTC phone in usb wifi thetering mode which results in a stable, fast and reliable connection. I tried the pcie wifi card and the usb adapter on one of my friends PC and there they work just fine. So the mistery deepend.... As a last effort i bought an ASUS B450 PLUS Prime motherboard, swapped all the components and got the same stupid behavior from the wifi peripherals, i`m going to return this board to amzn in order to get my money back but i really don`t know what to try now.. I can`t Rma the original parts to HW1.it cause they shut down and i have to deal with every single manufacturers.. The only components i can try to swap remain the CPU, PSU and Memory.. I think i am going to try a new PSU to see if it`s an eletric supply related problem cause the only difference i see from my wifi adapters and the Phone is that the latter has an internal batterry that can supply short outtages or bad psu power. I am literally begging for help, i need my pc for online University classes especially now that COVID is coming back strong here in italy. Please help with suggestions, i would really need an Anthony now A really frustrated and angry italian guy (but mostly frustrated).
