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I'm planning on upgrading my y50-70 from 12gb of ram to 32gb of ram. I found both 1600 MHz and 1866 MHz options for sale. I unsure if the y50-70 can go faster then 1600 MHz as the cpu specs on intel say it supports 1333/1600 MHz. Another thread on this site says there laptop ran at 1777 MHz using 1866 MHz sticks, which seems odd to say the least. Is it bad to run at 1777 MHz would that be unstable? faster/slower? damage my computer? Basically should I get the 1600 MHz or the 1866 MHz and why. Please explain. Thanks! Intel Core i74710HQ Processor 6M Cache up to 3.50 GHz Product Specifications

Hello LTT community. Recently I was able to score a bargain on an Asus Rampage II Extreme + i7 920 combo, and this gave me the idea of building a secondary gaming PC around it that I could put in the living room (sure this platform is outdated and not power efficient in the slightest but it can still pack a solid punch). Anyway, I found a 4x4GB 1333MHz DDR3 kit, but there seems to be what I assume is a memory channel issue: by installing the 4 modules in the recommended configuration (so slots A2, A1, B1, C1), the BIOS would only pick up 8GB, while in Windows it would state 16GB with 8GB usable. After this I tried multiple different memory configurations while also swapping the modules around and these were the results: A1, B1, C1 --> still 8GB detected A1, B1 --> 4GB detected A2, A1, B2, B1 --> doesn't POST B2, B1, C2, C1 --> detectes the full 16GB and everything works as it should I could just use it in the last configuration, but then it wouldn't take advantage of triple channel, and I probably wouldn't be able to upgrade to 24GB in the future if I wanted to. So now I'm asking you for help: is there something I can try to do or do I just have to rule this off as a dead memory channel? I've already updated the BIOS to the latest version, reseated the CPU and checked the socket but found no bent or broken pins. I've heard some people say that excessive CPU cooler mounting pressure could cause memory issues: while I don't think I overtightened the cooler's screws, is it worth it to look into this potential solution or is it unlikely? And if it ends up being an actual dead memory channel, in your experience, is it most likely to be the CPU or motherboard's fault? I'd hope for the former since I was thinking of selling it and swapping it for a 6 core down the line anyway. Tell me what you think about this, I'm open to suggestions.

I have more than 16 of these 16GB sticks of DDR3 RAM. They are ECC. can somebody tell me if they will work in normal boards ?? Model of RAM : KVR16LR11D4/16 I really have no use for them and they are just lying around with me. if they are worth anything. I wanna sell them. please suggest.

Budget (including currency): 300/350€ Country: Austria but can purchase from Germany, France and Switzerland Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Baldur’s gate 3, general gaming and ideally streaming. Other details : Got this computer as a gift from a family member and as I don’t have a lot of budget I’d like to focus on upgrading it to be usable rather than purchasing a whole new build Here is what it contains so far : https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vBMJmD Needs : A graphics card, an SSD and probably a new power power supply that would all be usable for a new build down the line when I have money to buy other components. Thanks a lot for any advice you can give !

So I have a pc with an i5 4690K with 16 GB Kingston HyperX fury 2x8 1866 MHz, and a Gigabyte G1 Sniper M5 motherboard and a GTX 970, and everytime I shut it down and let it sit for a bit for example one night, the following day it won't start back up again reading the error code 32 every single time, I haven't yet tried other ram, but the ram should be good with this motherboard which is why I don't know what the problem could be. Any idea what might help me troubleshoot this problem?

Budget (including currency): $300 Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: gaming Other details. I have a i5 3570, 32gb ram ddr3, and a 1660 super, as my 2nd pc. Wanting to upgrade the cpu and mobo without breaking the bank and stay with the ddr3 ram..

Howdy! Currently troubleshooting a system that won’t boot. I located the problem down to the RAM. This is a pair of 2x8 DIMMs, using the other DIMM, I could get the system to boot. But, if I put this stick in, either by itself or trying dual channel, the PC would not boot. I took the DIMM out and noticed this: This is the only thing identifying itself as to why the DIMM is failing. Is it even worth attempting to repair this? Considering this is my secondary budget build, I’m not trying to sink a ton of money into the system but still want the 16 gigs. if the sticks need to be replaced, what DDR3 (up to 2400Mhz) DIMM set would you recommend, please include a link. Thank you!

Welcome to my memory overclocking guide. Before we get started, there are a few things I want to get out of the way, along with a few people to thank. First of all, thank you to @SteveGrabowski0 for being my partner in crime in this sub-forum, spreading the word about memory and it's impact on gaming performance. I would also like to thank @done12many2 for reigniting my passion for memory overclocking. Seeing you take to it so quickly, gave me hope that I could improve upon what I already had, and I did. Lastly, I would like to thank a friend who is not a part of this forum, but he's the man that got me into computers in the first place. He was also the one to teach me every timing in explicit details. Thanks Matt, a man could never ask for a better OCD stricken, unrealistically high standards friend. Now, for the disclaimer: Memory overclocking will drive you insane. There is no one-stop overclock that will work for all boards, CPU's, etc. When I say it's trial and error, I mean it. You will either hate it, and never do it again, or become so addicted to it that it consumes your free time. Normally with a disclaimer; someone would say "this is your own doing, I am not liable for damage, bla bla bla" but let's face it, the only way you will damage your system with memory overclocking, is if you completely abandon all common sense. Stay within the voltages I put in this guide, and you will be perfectly fine. Now... let's get this show on the road. Part 1: Intel For this first part, we will be focusing on Intel boards and CPU's, since this is where I have the most expertise. Most of the timings we will be touching, are available on both DDR3 and DDR4, so a lot of this knowledge is interchangeable. Let's start with terminology: Voltages: Below, are a list of voltages we will use when overclocking our memory to improve stability. I'll include both DDR3 and DDR4 voltages, along with Intel's "recommended max" voltages for the users that wish to have peace of mind. These voltages are: vDIMM (Sometimes called VDDQ or DRAM Voltage, supplied from the board to the memory itself) VCCIO (Voltage for the path going into and out of the IMC) VCCSA (Sometimes called System Agent Voltage, it's your IMC and PCIe subdomain voltage) For DDR3, typical voltages are 1.35v (DDR3L), 1.5v (JEDEC DDR3), and 1.65v (OC'd DDR3). Intel's max recommended voltage for DDR3 on Sandy/Ivy/Haswell, is 1.5v +5%, which is 1.575v. For DDR4, typical voltages are 1.2v (JEDEC DDR4), and 1.35v (OC'd DDR4). Intel's max recommended voltage for Skylake's DDR4 half of it's IMC is 1.2v + 5%, which is 1.26v. For the DDR3 half of Skylake's IMC, it's 1.35v + 5% which is 1.4175v. Sources to these claims (and why I think they are bogus) can be found here: For VCCIO/VCCSA, I do not recommend exceeding a value of 1.25v for each. I personally use a value of 1.14v for VCCIO, and 1.15v for VCCSA. Going beyond 1.25v is silly, and may potentially damage your IMC or traces on your board. Primary Timings: These are timings that are normally listed on every sales page of your ram. They include: CAS Latency (tCL) RAS to CAS delay (tRCD) Row Precharge Time (tRP) RAS Active Time (tRAS) Command Rate (CR) (Note: Command Rate is not a timing, but it's listed under Primary Timings, so I included it here) They are also commonly available to tinker on most chipsets, and are often made available for tuning in software like XTU. Secondary Timings: These are timings that are seldom ever listed anywhere on a marketing page, but you can find them within your BIOS on some chipsets. They include: Write Recovery Time (tWR) Refresh Cycle Time (tRFC) RAS to RAS Delay Long (tRDD_L) RAS to RAS Delay Short (tRDD_S) Write to Read Delay Long (tWTR_L) Write to Read Delay Short (tWTR_S) Read to Precharge (tRTP) Four Active Window (tFAW) CAS Write Latency (tCWL) Most of these timings are inaccessible on lower-end chipsets and more restrictive BIOS's. Very rarely will you have access to them on lower-end configurations, and even XTU lacks control over most of these timings. Tertiary Timings: These are timings that are NEVER listed anywhere on a marketing page, and are different per motherboard/CPU IMC/ ram IC. They are generated by your IMC, after your board probes it repeatedly looking for a stable configuration. Some of you might have noticed your PC restarting a few times when installing new memory kits. These timings are often the cause of that, as they need special training in order for you to post properly. They include: tREFI tCKE tRDRD (_SG, _DG, _DD, _DR) tRDWR (_SG, _DG, _DD, _DR) tWRRD (_SG, _DG, _DD, _DR) tWRWR (_SG, _DG, _DD, _DR) SG = Same Group, DG = Different Group, DD = Different DIMM, DR = Different Rank. Credit to @Digitrax for providing this information. Very specific boards and chipsets will allow modification of these timings. They are by far one of the most important groups of timings you can adjust, and are directly involved in improving your bandwidth efficiency. More on that later. Round Trip Latency: Since these settings are not timings, and are not always listed under tertiary timings, I feel they need their own section, as they are probably the single most important settings you can adjust to see the biggest impact on performance. They include two settings: RTL (the title of this section should give you hints as to what this is) IO-L As the title of this section hints at, Round Trip Latency is directly involved in how long it takes your ram to complete it's total cycles. The tighter this value is, the lower your overall latency is. Sounds great, right? Well, the problem is: literally every timing is associated with this setting, and tightening other settings, makes it harder to tighten this. It's also annoying to adjust, as you cannot adjust it without also adjusting IO-L settings (the two must be adjusted as a pair) and there is no secret formula for doing so. All I can tell you is: your RTL channels cannot be more than 1 apart in either direction. Example: If RTL of Channel A is 50, RTL of Channel B can be 51 or 49. It cannot be 52 or 48, as this will result in extremely terrible performance, or worse, system instability. Now that we have the timing terminology out of the way, let's first discuss stability testing. After all, you cannot overclock until you know how to validate that overclock. Stress Testing (Validating Stability) This part is always met with some sort of controversy, as everyone has their own way of doing things. That being said, I too have my own way, and it's the only way I've ever done it, so I'll have to stick by what I know. When making adjustments in your BIOS for timings or frequency, I always recommend running a full pass of memtest86. Memtest86 is not a stress test, but it will test things that can potentially show your IMC not liking your current memory configuration. I use it as a precursor to actual memory stress testing, as it helps prevent instant crashing in Windows due to IMC outright hating your memory configuration. We use memtest86 in two phases: Phase 1: Full Pass Phase 2: IMC Smackdown. Phase 1 is pretty self explanatory. It's running memtest86, using all 13 tests. Phase 2 is where the fun begins, as we disable all tests excluding test 6, and run it several times. I personally do 10 runs of test 6, but feel free to do however many you wish to do. It will test different rows and addresses with each subsequent test, so the more you run it, the better your chances are for finding IMC/RAM incompatibility. This phase is critical when making adjustments to tertiary timings, as this test will find issues quicker than any other. When using Memtest86, make sure you hit C, and select "All Cores: Parallel". This will make the test go much quicker. Believe me, you will want to save as much time as you can, as memory overclocking takes a long time to validate 100% stability. Next, we have my tool of choice for basically all forms of stress testing, Prime95. I know, some of you are scared when you see this come up. In fact, pretty sure I felt someone's heartbeat increase somewhere in the world due to the sheer mention of it. Relax. For this purpose, Prime95 is going to be 100% harmless. In fact, we won't be using an FFT size small enough for it to get hot, so you should be fine. If you are absolutely terrified, feel free to use the non-AVX version, as it shouldn't matter for ram stability (unless you are stress testing specific AVX-based tertiary timings, such as tRDWR_DD/DR, but more on that later. For now, let's focus on how to stress it. Open up Prime95 of your choice (I am currently using 28.10 as of this guide) and input the following settings: (Do note: Number of threads should be equivalent to the amount of threads available on your processor. For example, a 7700k has 8 threads, while an R7 1700 has 16) Now, for "Memory To Use", make sure you enter your own value. I highly recommend 75% of your total capacity. If you have say, 16GB, then your capacity = 16 x 1024 - 25% = 12288MB. For 8GB, that value would be 6144MB. Since I have 32GB, I'll be using 24576 to stress test. Once this starts, let it run for several hours. I personally let mine run for about 8-12 hours, depending on how I feel and how much I've tinkered from my last stable profile, but I do not recommend running for less than 8 hours. I know it's tempting to cut corners, but memory instability is not a game you want to play. It can seriously corrupt your windows installation, and require a fresh install. Take this part seriously. As for why we use the settings above, allow me to explain. 512k-1024k is hard on the IMC and IO lanes. 2048k+ is hard on your ram. By setting the range at 512-4096, we not only stress the IMC and IO Lanes, we also stress the memory itself. Be warned: 1344k and 2688k are also included in this range, and are the hardest stress on vCore. If your CPU is unstable by any means, it will fail this, and will likely hold you back on memory overclocking. Always make sure your CPU is 100% stable before attempting memory overclocking. The less variables involved, the better. For those of you with Haswell, and worried about that old myth of Prime95 killing CPU's, understand this. This range lacks 448k, which was the hardest FFT to test on FIVR. You should be fine here. Overclocking Memory (Intel Platforms) Precautions: The very first thing I advise you do, is locate your CLEAR_CMOS button on your motherboard (if you have one) or put your system in a location that adjusting your CMOS jumpers/battery is easily accessible. You are certainly going to be using them, no exceptions. Next be sure to have your power supply's power cable near you. Sometimes, removing this and holding down the power button for 60 seconds, results in enough of a clear to allow you to get back into BIOS without completely resetting everything. Lastly, save all of your "pseudostable" profiles, so that you can continue to adjust them for better stability without starting over. Overclocking Time!: Now that we have the precautions out of the way, it's time to start tinkering. I recommend focusing on Frequency first, while keeping your primary timings the same. I personally dial in a vDIMM of 1.35v, and then I start increasing my memory frequency one memory strap at a time. If I was at 3000 C15, I would try 3200 C15, then 3333 C15, 3466 C15, and so on. When you reach a point to where it no longer posts, you have 3 options. Option 1: Throw more voltage at it. Option 2: Loosen your primary timings. Option 3: settle for last bootable configuration. I advise trying option 1 first, as it might only take a little bit more vDIMM to make it stable. For example: My 3600 C14 profile is unstable at 1.35v, but stable at 1.39v. Since it's still under the "1.4175v" that Intel suggested for the DDR3 half of the IMC, I just pretend the DDR4 half of my IMC will tolerate it just as well. As I've ranted about before, you won't be killing an IMC with vDIMM. Now, your VRM components near your ram on the motherboard, that's a different story entirely. Use common sense, and try to avoid going over 1.45v for 24/7 vDIMM and you should be fine. Some 4266 kits even use a value of 1.4v on their XMP's, and nobody has killed a board or CPU with those yet. Option 2 is what we call "compromising". You have to be careful when making compromises on timings for speed. The end must justify the means. If you gain a slight amount of bandwidth, but lose on latency at all, it's a bad trade. Memory is already so ridiculously fast in regards to bandwidth, that latency should ALWAYS come first in your mind. That being said, frequency can be just as good for latency as it is with bandwidth. It just takes a little balance. If you increase frequency while keeping timings the same, latency improves. If you loosen latency while increasing bandwidth, one of two things can happen. #1: you have faster bandwidth, and latency remains the same as a result. This is a good trade with no negative side effects, so I tend to allow this. #2: you gain bandwidth, but latency suffers. This is a terrible trade, and should never be made. Go back to your last configuration, and work on making that stable instead. When making minor tweaks, I recommend using software like Aida64's memory bandwidth test (cachemem test) to see your gains in performance. Yes, I know it sucks using paid software, but it seriously helps with knowing whether or not your timings are making a positive or negative impact in performance. While I do intend to provide the list of timings that benefit performance regardless of your memory IC's, you must understand that certain IC's have specific tertiary timings that they benefit from being loose, or tight. I cannot tell you a Samsung timing configuration, that will also boost your Hynix timing configuration, because they both enjoy completely different values. You can also have two different Samsung IC's (B Die, D Die, etc) that also prefer different values. The best course of action in this scenario, is trial and error. Now that we've gotten frequency and primary timings taken care of, it's time for secondary timings. While you will see small gains from most of these timings, I want to focus on one very important secondary timing. tRFC. You see, memory is a matrix of billions of capacitors that need to be recharged. You have tRFC, a secondary timing, that works alongside tREFI, a tertiary timing. Every <tREFI>, they are recharged in order, for <tRFC> amount of time. Simply put: tRFC is the mount of time your ram can do nothing, while being recharged. tREFI = the amount of time your ram can do things, before needing recharged. Both are very important, and have significant impact on your latency. tRFC works best as low as you can get it, and tREFI functions best as high as you can get it. tRFC, in my testing, is best left at 270, as it's the easiest value to keep stable, while having the best gains in performance. tREFI on the other hand, can go as high as 65535 and not really matter, but can potentially lead to corruption if your motherboard's quality is lackluster. The warmer your DIMMS, the more often they need recharged. If mobo is bad, it can't recharge high enough to meet the required interval. Basically, if motherboard is bad, stick to the JEDEC standard of 7.8usec refresh interval. If your ram is 3000mhz, the formula is 1500 x 7.8 = 11700. If your ram is 3600mhz, the formula would be 1800 x 7.8 = 14040 tREFI. There are other formula's for your secondary timings worth following, such as: tFAW = tRRD x 4. The others, they tend to take trial and error. Gain's can be small, or big, depending on whether or not you are using DDR3 or DDR4. I can say that with DDR4, the gains are not as massive as touching tertiary timings. Speaking of which... Tertiary timings: Depending on your level of masochism, this will be the part you love the most, or absolutely dread. There is no in-between. As you saw above during the terminology half, tertiary timings tend to have a few suffixes after their name. These are SG, DG, DD, and DR. I'll be frank here. I have no idea what SG or DG means, I just know that they severely impact your bandwidth, no matter what kind of memory you use. As for DD, I believe these are related to 2DPC (DIMMS Per Channel) and only matter if you have 2 DIMMS per channel (ITX users rejoice, less complication) while DR matters when using multi-rank kits. It's easier to associate DR with "Dual Rank". If you have a single rank kit, touching _DR timings does literally nothing. No positive or negative, and no instability issues either. I recommend taking these one at a time, or at the very least, one group at a time. Focus on tRDRD (and all of it's suffixes), followed by tRDWR, and so on. Fun fact about tRDWR: these timings directly impact AVX. The tighter they are, the hotter AVX is. The looser they are, the cooler AVX is. Those of you that fear AVX, you might be able to use this to your advantage, and make those stress tests easier on yourself. I promise not to judge you. EDIT: Huge thanks to Digitrax for providing clarification on what these tertiary timings mean. Look at his post below for details: Once you've finally settled on your tertiary timings, and have gone through countless hours of stress tests, it's time for the bane of my existence. RTL/IO-L's. I honestly cannot give you any better advice, other than "You gotta feel it". There is no magical value that I can tell you to dial in, and have it work. You can ask me until you are blue in the face, and I simply will not be able to help you. RTL has one very specific value it likes, and a few others that it "tolerates", and that's it. Either it works, trains poorly, or doesn't work at all. Now, with DDR4, we do have a trick up our sleeves to at least prevent it from training poorly. It's a very simple formula for a specific setting, called RTL Init. This formula is: IO-L + IO-L Offset + CL (x2) + 10. Let's say your IO-L is 4, and your offset is 21. You have a CAS Latency of 14. The formula would be: 4 + 21 + 14 (x2) + 10 = 63. Once you input 63 in the RTL Init setting, your IMC will no longer train RTL's beyond it's current threshold. This is great, as it at least prevents performance from getting worse. However, this is only a band-aid. You should still strive to find optimal settings for RTL/IO-L. That being said, do not beat yourself up dwelling on this. If you've gained significant strides in all other aspects of your ram, then feel proud of what you've accomplished. It's still worlds beyond what XMP can offer you, and you've gotten one step closer to mastering one of the most difficult "overclocking disciplines" there is. For those of you that expected more than this, I am sorry. I am still learning myself, and I do not feel that I understand every aspect yet, so bare with me as I continue to learn and update this "guide" with what I discover in the future. If I forgot to tag anyone that was waiting to read this, I apologize, as my mind has been elsewhere and I honestly cannot remember who was waiting to read this. Part 2 (AMD Classic) and Part 3 (AMD Ryzen) will be coming as soon as I get the time. It may take weeks or even months for those to be completed, as my free-time is very scarce at the moment. As for why I need two entirely different parts for AMD, It's simple. Ryzens IMC is a complete overhaul over AMD's older architectures. It resembles absolutely nothing if it's former IMC (for better or for worse) and is currently lacking in many features. Simply put: Overclocking Ryzen's memory isn't an easy task, even for veterans. It requires a lot of tricks and luck, far more than any other platform I've encountered. When I get additional time, I'll amend some of this guide to try to make it easier to understand, as well as add my experiences and additional tricks to save time during this process. Good luck everyone, hope it helps.

Recently I replaced the Samsung M378B5273DH0-CK0 DDR3 1600MHz C11 2x4GB in my Dell OptiPlex 7010 with Corsair CMV16GX3M2A1600C11 ValueSelect DDR3 1600MHz C11 2x8GB. I have lost FPS in games like World of Tanks (1440p 110 average fell to 90 average, and drops as low as 60 sometimes which didn't happen with the Samsung RAM.) A little bit stuttery when flicking the camera around in other games. Both CPU & GPU rarely go above 50% utilisation. I ran some tests and RAM latency has increased from 70 ns with the old setup to 85.3 ns. Could this be the reason why average FPS has fallen, varies more, and the image occasionally gets tearing? Running all four of those sticks together for a total of 24GB the latency has gone up to 87.5 ns. Is this due to increased load on the memory controller? My second question is can I run C10 or even C9 RAM on this Dell motherboard (0KRC95) that does not support (afaik) manual memory overclocking nor XMP. I was about to buy some (used) Corsair Vengeance Pro 9-9-9-24 and then I read that to achieve the labled timing, it relies on XMP - otherwise it will run at 1333MHz. Is this true? If possible, I would like to find some low latency RAM that does not need overclocking out the box. I want to run ram at the highest speed supported by this dell motherboard - 1600MHz. (please note: before anyone suggests "just buy a new PC", please don't. I appreciate its already had it's tenth birthday & comes with many limitations, but this system still has some use left in it & will be capable for a few more years) System Info Dell OptiPlex 7010 Intel Core i7-3770 3.4 GHz Samsung 870 QVO 1TB boot drive Zotac RTX 2070 Super Mini Windows 10 Pro 22H2 64-bit

New to LTT forum so I'm gonna wing it. I just copped an old Acer Aspire XC600 from some guy on Carousell. He says it's been working fine for him for the past couple years. Threw in a 128gb SSD and booted it up and it displayed ERROR: NO BOOT DISK DETECTED OR DISK HAS FAILED or something like that. Checked some stuff on Google and said to boot into BIOS by pressing delete when I turn it on. The kb was getting power and so was my PC, so I tried some more stuff like resetting CMOS to try and fix the BIOS or something and it just stopped displaying out after I used the CMOS jumper 3pin something. I get front panel lights and CPU and PSU fan spin, CPU is hot with power and SSD has a red light on it (is that good). I have no idea what happened. Should I just scrap the components inside and save up for a hella budget sleeper pc in the case? Sometimes when I press power button it beeps twice and according to Acer website that means parity circuit error (I have no idea), but when I turn it off and power again it just beeps once (no problem?). Any help is greatly appreciated.

Budget (including currency): under a grand, USD - preferably under 200 Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Basically nothing, it will be used in conjunction with a KVM switch so I can access the BIOS from my office (server is in basement, office second floor) Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): preferably one HDMI output, maybe 3 total if the price is right. MUST be a single slot card, no exceptions as it’s going into a literal 2U rack server. The motherboard has a daughter board/riser with 1 pci 1x and 2 16x slots. One 16x has 16x (bitrifucated) 4x pci NVMe card, also a single slot basically just looking for a cheap GPU that won’t be used for any intensive purposes other than the desktop. No games, no mining, no editing or anything. the server has onboard VGA but I snapped off a capacitor on accident so the onboard is broken unless I take apart the entire server down to the motherboard and re-solder the capacitor with that being said, last thing I wanna do is take out 24 DIMMS, 8x sata drives, disconnect 8x SAS drives etc etc. I think for my purposes I’d be fine with 4gb of onboard RAM or less. 512mb would probably be sufficient too but it MUST be a single slot card, perhaps a rx 580 or something? price isn’t a concern but again for my purpose, cheap cheap is a benefit. I have 2 laptops that have windows 2022 datacenter on them which will be wired via Ethernet directly to the server which is why (ideally) I’d like 3 HDMI outputs, the other 2 can just be for RDP’ing to the laptops via a seperate subnet/switch setup with a hdmi/ethernet balun thanks peeps! There is no wrong answer on this one, anything would help!

Hi guys, so my DFI P43-T34 just died and I decided to replace it and it became not that easy... My requirements are simple, I need: * LGA 775 motherboard * Support for Core 2 Quad Q9XXX CPUs * DDR3 * 4 RAM Slots supporting over 8GBs of RAM * PCie supporting overclocked GTX 660Ti and they are nowhere to be found... So if someone has a link to one in a reasonable price with shipping to the EU or has one lying around, please let me know :).

I have Biostar n68s3b motherboard which supports upto 1600 mhz Ram. With core clock increase( HT bus frequency), from 200 to 260 MHz, ram frequency reaches 1734 MHz, Memory ratio is 3.3x, CAS latency 9. Any higher and system crashes, possibly due to 1333 mhz ram. There also is Ram frequency tuning list, where memory is manually set to 1333 mhz. It can be set upto 1600 mhz. (If someone can explain how this works) Question being, should I buy 1600 mhz ram and overclock it? Or buy 2133 mhz Ram and set frequencies so it reaches around that mark. Will be motherboard support frequencies not listed in mb site, and what happens if I add 2 sticks of 8 gb each Ram will it show 16 gb, or will be not boot at all? Ty

Hi, I'm using a pretty old PC, MSI Z87-G45 I5 4670K R9 290 8GB (2x4GB) Crucial Balistix Sport DDR3 CL9 1600Mhz I want to upgrade the RAM, and was thinking of getting a 16GB kit (2x8GB). Will it be ok if I'll add it to existing 8GB? for 24GB? or will it cause issues and it's better to throw the 8GB and only use the 16GB kit? Thanks!

They've got the same slot size and all. One interesting thing I will note is that the graphics card has a max power requirement of 47 W while the port is labelled as providing 25 W. Would that be acceptable?

I got 4x16 gigs of ddr3 ecc ram offered from a friend for almost free. As I've been planning on building a second pc for home server purposes, I bought them. Although, my problem is that I can't find any decent motherboard that supports it. I'll be building it on my own, have no other components other than the ram yet. What are my options for a good motherboard and cpu combination, if there are any, that support it?

Hi all, I am trying to upgrade my sister's laptop to make it more suitable for her workflow. I want to upgrade her RAM - he has two slots of SODIMM DDR3 memory on her motherboard. One of those slots is already filled with a reasonable Kingston 2Rx8 PC3L - 12800S -11 - 13 - F3 RAM stick (picture attached). Due to the budget constraints, I can't afford to buy 2x8GB RAM sticks, so I am trying to find a matching one. Does anyone know whether the following stick - Kingston 2Rx8 PC3L - 12800S -11 - 12 - F3 would work nicely with the pre-existing stick? Thanks for help. Sorry if this post is off topic or silly, but I am quite new to the whole laptop upgrading thing.

Hi guys, I have an issue with 3 out of 4 ram sticks (DDR3, 1600Mhz, GEIL 4GB, 12800, CL 9,9,9,28). I shut down my PC fully working, tried to power it on next morning, did not even post (no beep at all, but fans spinning, Case, CPU, GPU). After troubleshooting I figured out that only 1 (different kind than other 3 above mentioned sticks, 4GB, 1333 Mhz) was still working. PC powered on and post without any issue with only that 1 1333Mhz ram stick plugged in (all the 4 sockets still work, PC posts with that 1 1333 Mhz ram in each slot still). How in the world can it be that 3 ram sticks of the same kind stop working all at once? Even weirder is that when I try to power it on with any of these three sticks installed there is NO BEEP during post. I had a ram failure a year ago (the second stick of the 1333, 4GB one that is left over, then I bought the 3 sticks above) but with this it beeped constantly and restarted the PC after that post beeping immediatly. Beep pattern was indicating ram failure. So because 3 sticks "died" at the same time but different "fail behaviour", is my ram broken or is it fixable in any way? If you need to know more, pls ask. My system is Gigabyte X77 DH3 ATX motherboard (Bios F16), Intel E3 1230 V2 Xeon, 970 GTX, 16 GB of above ram all used to run at 1333 Mhz, 530 bequiet PSU.

I have watched LTT for over a year now, but joined the forum 10 minutes ago. I want 64 GB of the fastest DDR3 RAM. I want help on where to buy 16 GB DIMMs. It can't be ECC either because I have a consumer motherboard. Before you scream at me, I have a compatible motherboard. It is the AsRock 990FX Extreme3. It supports up to 64 GB of DDR3. It also only has 4 RAM slots. I also can't replace a whole bunch of stuff because that would mean new motherboard, cpu, and cooler AND the DDR4 RAM.

Hey, I’m planning on upgrading both my and my gfs computer, we’re both rocking a Intel i5 4690K 16GB DDR3 RAM. She has 2x GTX970 Sli, planned to upgrade to RTX3070 whenever they come back in stock and I got ahold of one RTX3070 for myself. I’m originally planning to wait for DDR5 to come in stock and down in price to upgrade my setup to a i7 12700K or i5 12600k I use my pc for CAD, programming and AAA titles. Any pointers/ recommendations about my plan as well would be perfect. But what I’m really wondering about today is the upgrade to my gfs pc. She plays mostly FPS AAA titles (eks. Battlefield, Ghost Reckon Wildlands, Overwatch), WoW, and it takes two atm. I have 2 builds I’ve looked at for her: Ryzen 5 5600X ASUS ROG Strix B550-F Gaming Kingston Fury Beast DDR 4 3200MHz 32GB NZXT Kraken X53 Samsung 980 1TB M.2 SSD or Intel i5 12600K ASUS Prime Z690-P DDR4 Kingston Fury Beast DDR 4 3200MHz 32GB Cooler Master Masterliquid ML360R with alderlake bracket Samsung 980 1TB M.2 SSD The Ryzen setup is about 813EUR (925USD or 1 150 Canadian Dollar) The Intel setup is about 1000EUR (1 150USD or 1 440 Canadian Dollar) Which one is a better value both for right now and going forward? Should I wait for DDR5 for her as well? Is DDR5 even worth the wait? I can upgrade the Ryzen 5 to a Ryzen 7 5800X for 80 EUR more if that would be even more bang for your buck. Any thoughts about the subject would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Did a windows update yesterday after which my pc wouldn't display anything. The pc tried to restart after the update but didn't display anything. Swaped out the 2 4gb sticks with one 2gb module. The pc worked until I restarted it again. Now none of the 4 ddr3 modules I tried do anything and the Dram led stays lit constantly. I don't have any more ram sticks to test. Tried the MemOK button with every module I had. Tried all 4 slots on the board. Tried resetting the cmos and removed and swaped out all other hardware. I'm running a i5-2500K in a Asus P8p67 rev 3.1 mobo. There is also no beebs coming from the motherboard indicating any hardware issues. Only the Dram led staying lit. Could this be memory compatibility problem due to some bios issues ? Is my motherboard dead? Did it kill my ram modules?

I am tryin to put together one of my old computers so my nephew can play modded Minecraft and other steam games on it but the only graphics card i could find at the time was a gtx 1650 which doesnt seem to work with the motherboard i have, to my understanding all pcie graphics cards and slots are backwards compatible but i cant find the card in the device manager, cant install drivers as the computer doesnt seem to see the card at all i have checked some of the bios options and nuthing sticks out as out of place to me, i have checked the pcie slot still works by pluging in very old but still somewhat working card and it seemed to see the card just fine and work as expected so what am i missing? PC hardware CPU: AMD FX 6100 Motherboard: 960gm-gs3 FX (bios Version P1.30) Ram Corsair Vengeance (2x8gb 1333 or 1800mhz I think) Graphics card: Asus TUF GTX 1650 PSU: corsair cx550 SSD: Samsung 860 EVO

I checked my module of ram and ordered the same module online and I'm thinking now that will it work with the previous ram which is same?

Hello, I am looking for any help in finding a micro-ATX motherboard compatible with this CPU for a mid-range workstation. Idealy the motherboard would have at least 2x pcie3x16 slots, and 1 M.2 and at least 6 sata ports. Idealy below £150 on the used market Any help would be grately appreciated.

So I picked up a new server and am gathering parts for upgrades. It's old with 2x E5-2620 V1. This processor only supports DDR3 800/1066/1333. I have a buddy who has a bunch of Server ECC DDR3 but they are 1600Mhz. They will work with the board if there were different CPUs in the sockets. So my question, will they still work? Maybe not at 1600MHz, but will it dial the speed back to 1333? Actually kind of of hard to find info on this. Thanks ahead of time.