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I am using a Thinkpad and recently installed a Transcend 2242 M.2 SSD which I fitted with a new heatsink. The heatsink itself is actually a 2282 NVMe one which I sawed in half to fit the 2242 SSD then I plugged it inside, booted it and installed a new Linux distro. It was working fine. However, after watching a Youtube video on copper shims, I'm suddenly worried if I hadn't cleaned my sawed-off heatsink enough and there might be a little bit of copper dust inside my laptop. What I plan to do is remove the SSD and heatsink to give it a good wash but I wonder if there is a mini vacuum cleaner suited for laptops (i.e. having non-ESD bristles) or if there is another way to suck possible dust out without having to completely take apart my laptop. Thanks.

Hey guys, I'm trying to clean an ssd from an old laptop but i can't clean it using cmd. I tried everything. The pictures show the problem I can clean but if i do any other comand like creating a new partition, it automaticly creates 2 partitions and the old files are there.

My display is getting dusty and I would like to clean it, but if I recall correctly using water is a huge NO (I read it somewhere) So what do you use?

Im trying to get into the habit of cleaning my pc every 4-6 months and its been 5 but I dont have any compressed air so I asked my parents if I could get some or an air blower but instead they asked me if I could just use and air mattress pump, and that makes a lot of sense since it does blow air out, but I just wanted to ask first to be careful.

@TheProfosist @CM Norumu (to prove I own it )

I love the idea of the backpack but I do not like to show off brands. It's nothing against LTT or its content but I think a clean no-logo backpack would look great!

I can only afford a budget case, but i must choose one of these two that has the most stable airflow,temps,clearence of the hardware size, if i can ask for more, the one that is easier to clean up. the two options that i have left are: https://www.phanteks.com/Eclipse-P300A.html (phanteks p300a) or https://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=726&area=es (silverstone redline RL06) my system specs are: -CPU: ryzen 5 5600x -CPU cooler: noctua nh-u12s chromax black -Motherboard: Rog strix b550-f gaming -GPU: MSI gaming x trio 3060ti -RAM: 16gb G.skill trident z 3200mhz on dual channel -PSU: EVGA supernova g3 750w -Actual case: gigabyte c200 (if its not much diference betwen my actual case or the ones that i can afford,then tell me if its better to have this one,rather than the ones i want) P.D:of course if you have a better case option than these two cases, then your advices are more than welcome here. P.D2: Sorry if my english is painfull to read, this isnt my native language. thank you .

Hey, so i am essentially just trying to delete everything on my HDD and make it new again! There is a old copy of windows 10 on it but its not being used, as I have windows 10 on my ssd along with everything else. Yes I really just want a straight simple answer on how to essentially delete everything, make it new again, and be able to put some games and what not on it. If anyone could provide me with a video or simply just make a list with steps on how to do it. I would prefer steps rather than watch someone for 10 minutes and something not turning out right. *note* For some reason my HDD is in read only mode? I am not sure why but that shouldn’t stop me from making it new again right? Cheers to anyone who can help!

New on here decided id showcase my latest project. I've been interested in building my own pc for a few years now but never had the money or time, with so much work being done at home and the addition of games the past year or so like Warzone I decided the time was right... (minus trying to source a reasonably priced gpu) PC and Peripherals Case: Corsair icue 220t Psu: Corsair Cx650m Cooler: Corsair H80i V2 Ram: Corsair 16gb 3000mhz (2x8gb) Cpu: Ryzen 3 2200g @3.85ghz Gpu: sahpire pulse Rx580 4Gb Motherboard: Aorus B450m Boot drive: sabrent 512gb nvme Storage: 1tb wd drive Monitor:Dell s2421h Mouse: Corsair Harpoon wireless Keyboard: Corsair K55 keyboard (not a corsair fanboy but from the little knowledge I had about pcs before building it , they seemed like good quality and the peripherals were cheap second hand !) Really didn't like the color scheme of the gpu backplate so I got some heat resistant paint and primer and gave it a couple of very light coats and I'm very impressed with it. No noticeable difference in Temperatures under. I'm not too keen on the crazy RBG colors, I feel a black case and internals looks pretty clean. Tried to keep costs for peripherals, desk and chair at a minimum so most of it is either second hand or fixed, had an old desk lying around which came out nice with a lick of grey paint. Tried to keep the build pretty clean, tidy cables was definitely high up on the priority list, got some cable clips on amazon as well as some double sided tape and zip ties to tidy up the back of the desk and pretty happy with it. Future plans are to wire the speakers with an amp which I have ordered, figure a way of hiding the ethernet cable and maybe upgrade to a wireless keyboard. If There's anything you like/dislike about the build or have any suggestions I would really appreciate it !

Spring is coming up and you know what that means, time to clean that dust collector. I want to get my PC clean along with everything else but i don't want to break something naturally. any tools/tips that would help me out with that? what should i avoid like the plague? If i built a PC what would prevent such dusty things from getting in my PC? Is it really important to breathe or is that just some medical grade propaganda?

i've got a fulldesk mousepad, its been unmoved for atleast 4 years and its getting a bit sticky/grimy, is there any good way to deepclean it without moving all my speakers PC monitor etc etc? could soaking it and vacuuming it work?

I have a stock Moto E6 through Boost Mobile that is fully updated to Android 9. I have a 128gb microSD that is doing fine. The 16gb on board storage is filling up though. I have used Avast Cleanup, File Manager Pro, ASTRO File Manager, and other methods to attempt to clean/remove the 2.1 gb Thumbnails file/folder yet nothing seems to work. I have deleted all photos, enabled permissions to the cleaning and file management apps, and followed various guides to create a replacement Thumbnails file but so far nothing is working. I remember this happening on my last few Android phones as well. It was at 2.11 at the start of November and as of today (November 30) it has grown to 2.15 gb. Any advice from the community? Thanks :)

Hi everyone, is there someone who could share his knowledge with me on the below please? I recently purchased a 970 on marketplace and the card works fine with no stability or high temp issues. As you can see for the most part the card appears to be in good condition. One thing I missed (because there was a backplate on the card) is this brown stain residue on the back. I can't tell if it's corrosion, flux residue or something else. It does not look like anything I was able to find online... I have tried cleaning with 99.9 Isopropyl Alcohol and cotton swabs / microfiber cloth but none of it has gone away. This thing is rock solid... I tried a plastic scraper very gently on a small line to see if I can scratch the surface and nothing, it will not go away.... The front side of the GPU has no visible issues whatsoever. Any suggestions??

I'm not sure if this is the right thread to post this I but I was wondering if there are other good ways to remove thermal paste other than 99% isopropyl alcohol. Are there any household products I could use instead? I know that Linus unloaded a video about this however that was uploaded nearly 5 years ago. I've tried finding answers to this on reddit however I assume I would have better luck by posting on here.

So I'm running out of on board storage space due to the Thumbnails file continuing to grow despite my removal efforts. I've tried all of the listed troubleshooting online : 1) Remove and replace with dummy file 2) changing properties to Read Only 3) remove all photos from device Last month it was 2.1 gb, now it's 2.2 gb This has happened on the last 3 android phones I've owned. It's fully updated to Android 9

///WRK_Station Hi everyone, this is my first build in 16 years and first time posting in this community (and it’s thanks to this community I’ve really managed to tune up this build and resolve a few teething issues). I’ve been working from home a lot over the past couple of years and my laptop isn’t cutting it anymore, plus I’ve been doing more photography as a hobby so decided to embark on a new quiet workstation build. Specifications: - AMD Ryzen 5950x CPU - Noctua NH-D15 Chromax Black Heatsink - ASUS Pro WS X570-ACE Motherboard - 2x 32GB DDR4 Corsair Vengeance LPX RAM @ 3600Mhz - 8GB nVIDIA Quadro RTX 4000 GPU - 1TB Samsung 980 Pro M.2 NVMe SSD - 2TB Samsung 970 Evo M.2 NVMe SSD - 1 TB Samsung 850 EVO SATA SSD - ASUS PCE-AX58BT Wireless PCIe Adapter - Seasonic SSR-850FX Focus Plus 850W 80Plus Gold PSU - Silverstone Seta Q1 Quiet ATX Case - 5x Noctua NF-A14 Chromax.black 140mm Fans I decided on the Silverstone Seta Q1 as a new case with a focus on sound and it’s also not huge as well as offering good support for fans and water cooling in the future. It’s also not RGB or windowed which was perfect for the subtle black, industrial aesthetic I was after. I intentionally went with fast and workstation focused components including a Leadtek RTX 4000 that I nabbed as a bargain brand-new from a local retailer. I also decided on air cooling as I have little water cooling experience and wanted something 24/7 reliable. Initial assembly went well (considering my last build was an Opteron workstation in 2005) with the case and PSU making it easy for good neat cable routing easy (I later decided to put in braided cables to improve aesthetics). LPX RAM fitted neatly under the NH-D15 cooler. Noctua NH-D15 cooler is a real beast so I initially tried it with just one of the included fans where it was quite performant and quiet but the second fan cleared the RAM and knocked 2-5 degrees off with barely anymore noise. The included Silverstone case fans were nice and quiet but they were DC not PWM reducing the flexibility of the fan curve I could set so I decided to go all-out Noctua A14 Chromax Black Swaps in their place. I also bought a 2TB Samsung 970 EVO NVMe SSD at the same time for data which shares the PCIe lanes of the PCIe Gen 4 1x slot on the Asus Pro WS X570-ACE that the wifi card was sitting in. No issues for the wifi card but the SSD was running at 1/4 of it’s maximum speed so I repositioned to the second PCIe 16x slot. After some benchmarking, thermal torture, gaming and light workload stuff I decided to swap to the provided air filter for the top of the case which replaces a slide-in heavy duty sound insulation layer to improve exhaust. I fitted another A14 Chromax to the top of the case to help exhaust hot air and a 3rd front lower fan to increase the positive pressure cold air. I reset the fan curves to lower RPMs and tested/tweaked over a few weeks until neutral pressure and good temps were had at low noise levels. Last change was moving the wifi card to the bottom PCIe slot to give the GPU maximum bandwidth on the CPU PCIe bus (worth probably 3fps in Halo :D). This final configuration and some tuning gave me fully memtest stable DDR4 3600 (18-22-22-42-64) at 1.35V with PBO and Curve Optimizer set to Motherboard limits providing 5.05Ghz @ 1.41V single/dual cores and 4.5Ghz all-core 1.1V. This can pull 280W according to HWMonitor resulting in ~30K Cinebench R23 at 80C maximum at 1000 rpm fan speeds. This can be lower at higher RPMs but it’s very audible then. I’ve tuned the power limits down a bit (due to the inconvenient case location with bad ventilation) and it still hits 5.05Ghz single core at 1.4V and 4.2Ghz all-core at 1.1V resulting in ~28K with much more constrained limits pulling only 180W and 75C max temps. With the system at stock everything (RAM DOCP but PBO off) gives me 5.0Ghz single core @ 1.45V / 3.8 Ghz all core @ 0.981V hitting 71C in single core cinebench and 65C on all core (R23 shows a ~25K all core score and 1618 single core). I usually toggle on “Eco” mode for office work which drops the temps to 50C .

I've been using CCleaner for.. I honestly don't know how long for cleaning up temp files - I like it for that, never used the registry cleaner. I've been reading about it on the forums and have found some conflicting reports regarding it's safety, so this is why I am wondering if there are any better alternatives out there?

I need a new laptop for work and it needs a pretty heavy GPU, however that means I'm limited to gaming laptops. If you were in a work meeting and one of the suits in the room had an Asus G15, how would you react? All rgb off and the red plate switched for the more neutral one. Or should I spend more money on a crappier power draw GPU and get the g14 in black?

If you ever tried to install the leaked Windows 11 onto your computer, you will get a result saying that "Your computer does not meet the minimum requirement" or something like that. It turns out that it's not that Microsoft does not allow users to install Windows 11 on bare metal. It's just that Windows 11 install loader requires users to have both Secure Boot and TPM enabled. But even the support itself is still finicky. Since Windows 11 is still Windows 10 under the hood, I have managed to install it on Surface Go (1st Gen, Intel Pentium Gold 4415Y), MacBook (12-inch, 2015, Intel Core M-5Y31), and MacBook Pro (16-inch, 2019, Intel Core i9-9980HK) with working drivers with no issue. And currently installing it on a MacBook Pro (13-inch, 2020, Intel Core i5-1038NG7) as of writing this thread. Here's how to do it. Required materials: Windows 11 ISO file, Windows 10 ISO file (20H1 or later), USB thumb drive First step is just as usual, write the Windows 11 ISO file onto your selected USB thumb drive. After the writing has finished, you shall simply open up the sources folder in your USB thumb drive. Double click the Windows 10 ISO file (20H1 or later) to mount it, and navigate to the same sources folder inside the mounted Windows 10 disc image. Select all the files in the Windows 10 sources folder except for the install.wim file, and copy them into the sources folder on your USB thumb drive. It will ask if you want to replace the files, click "yes to all". After that completes, simply boot into the USB thumb drive and start installing Windows 11. Tech behind this method: substituting the Windows 11 install loader with a Windows 10 install loader, thus bypassing the requirement. See attached to see some images of me installing Windows 11 on a 13-inch 2020 MacBook Pro as of writing this thread.

Hello everyone. I’ve been watching everyone’s thoughts on Windows 11 and can’t help but notice that everyone’s been installing it via Windows 10 upgrade, or via VM. Like, ugh it’s not natural! This is how you natively clean install Windows 11. Note that this will erase all your data, so be sure to use a spare SSD. Assuming you already have the USB installer, boot into it until you get to the setup. From the setup screen: 1. Press Shift + F10 to open Command Prompt. 2. Type ‘diskpart’ and press Enter. 3. Create your partitions via diskpart: 3a. Type ‘list disk’ press Enter. 3b. Select your disk ‘sel disk x’ where x = your primary drive. Type ‘clean’ to format the drive. Type "convert gpt" if your drive wasn't already formatted as GPT. 3c. Type ‘create partition efi size=100’ press Enter. 3d. Type ‘format quick fs=fat32 label=“System”’ press Enter. 3e. Type ‘assign letter=“S”’ press Enter. 3f. Type ‘create partition msr size=16’ press Enter. 3g. Type ‘create partition primary’ press Enter. 3h. Format partition by entering command ‘format quick fs=ntfs label=“Windows”’, press Enter. 3i. Type ‘assign letter=“W”’ press Enter. 4. See all your volumes by typing ‘list vol’ and you should see the partitions you just created. The EFI partition may not show up and that’s ok, and you should see your Windows and System partitions with assigned letters. Take note of the assigned letter for your USB installer. 5. Exit diskpart by typing ‘exit’ and press Enter. 6. Type ‘dism /Get-WimInfo /WimFile:X:\sources\install.wim’ and press Enter. (Where X is your USB installer) 7. You should be presented a list of Windows 11 versions assigned via Indexes. Select a version of Windows you want to install and take note of the index number. 8. Now type in ‘dism /Apply-Image /ImageFile:X:\sources\install.wim /Index:n /ApplyDir:W:\’ (Where X is your USB installer, n is the Index number, and W is the Windows partition we created in diskpart). Press Enter and wait. 9. Create the boot loader by typing ‘bcdboot W:\Windows /s S: /f UEFI’ (Where W is the Windows partition, S is the system partition we created in diskpart.) 10. Reboot and enjoy Windows 11 in it’s native glory.

Got a musical electric screen here where I can't tell if the issue is that the screen has to be taken out and cleaned or this is a replacement kind of problem. Which is it? There SEEMS to be a big gap between the screen itself and the display window and the artifact is the on back of the display window rather then on the screen. Is this fixable by cleaning? What caused this? Glue coming undone? Fog? Any would would be appreciated.

So I recently aquired a 3950X. I knew going in that it would be a hot chip. But my Zalman CNPS20X [Noctua Fans] isn't cutting it. I could go AIO but I figured why not go for it and make a custom loop. In my personal aesthetics I dont like the normal reservoirs. They're a little clunky. Now, 5.25" Bay Reservoirs.. Oh man. These things are the bees knees. I love the cleaner look that they can provide and give you room for drives and long long GPUs. My issue is finding one. These things are rare. From a more by gone era of computing. I really want this one. Link: https://www.frozencpu.com/products/16942/ex-res-421/XSPC_Twin_D5_Dual_525_Bay_Clear_Reservoir_-_w_Dual_MCP655_Series_Pumps_Installed.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwkN6EBhBNEiwADVfya3TESdjzTK2mJxGciSPXCUr0RYkn3bAThyPfpxa5iMF45I1QDu8eLRoCI0kQAvD_BwE#blank The pumps installed preferably. Its been an age since Ive heard of Frozen CPU. I don't know if they're still around. Anyone who has any leads to one please let me know. I would love to start clocking this chip soon. Thank you all!

My current build, setup, and child Started out as a Ryzen 3 3100 and 1650 super then gradually was upgraded to where it is now. Specs: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X ASRock B550M PRO4 G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 2x8 3200MT/s CL16 GIGABYTE AORUS GeForce RTX 3070 MASTER Phanteks Eclipse P360A Seasonic FOCUS GX-850 850W Gold 2 x Western Digital WD BLACK SN750 1TB Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML280 Mirror 3 x Cooler Master SickleFlow 120 2 x Cooler Master SickleFlow 140 Windows 10 Pro Setup: GIGABYTE M27Q ASUS VP249QGR Custom KBDFans 65% Keyboard Razer Strider XXL Logitech G Pro X Headset Logitech G Pro X Superlight Logitech Z623 Ram overclocked to 3334 MT/s CPU overclocked and undervolted to 4.75 GHz at 1.325 Volts GPU overclocked and undervolted to 2.05 GHz at 75% power limit (200 Watts) GPU has a custom fan curve to minimize noise and sits at 0 fan speed when idle Good value, just dont spend too much on the GPU like me... $860 still hurts.

I have the "itch" to build something new. But I do not like any of the case out there now, at least the ones I can find. They are all to flashy. I miss the good ole days were a case looked like a workstation and it was clean and professional. like lian-li older cases and fractal design. I still want a tg side panel but as long as its clean. The only thing I can find is fractal design define 7 but the tg version is out of stock or on back order everywhere I look. These are the type of builds I appreciate! I hope I am not the only one who misses these types of builds. Please help!!! *not my builds*