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I recently bought the parts to upgrade my ASUS x570-based system to an AMD Ryzen 9 5950X. Unfortunately, I only noticed after purchasing (and too late to return) that my new bequiet Dark Rock Pro 5 CPU cooler is 3mm too tall for my existing case, a bequiet Pure Base 600. While I checked motherboard compatibility with the cooler before purchase, I wrongly assumed it would work in the case - and nothing on bequiet's website talks about how some of their air coolers aren't compatible with some of their cases. Now that I've found Noctua's immensely helpful Compatibility Centre database, that'll never happen again. I don't game on this machine, but I crunch big databases and spreadsheets and also do some video and photo editing, so I use a CD/DVD/BR-R/W optical drive fairly regularly. I bought the Pure Base 600 because it is one of the few modern cases I've found with a convenient optical drive bay. For silence and aesthetics, I've used all black bequiet components where available. My conundrum is this: Do I... A. Buy a new bequiet Silent Base 802 case and use the Dark Rock Pro 5 cooler, but then have to use an external optical drive? It's the best cooling option, the USB-C port (for the external drive) is right on top, and I can repurpose the old case for a secondary system. The downside - besides the janky external optical drive (that won't do BR) - is cost. It's about $220 for case & external optical drive. B. Buy a Dark Rock Slim cooler and use my existing Pure Base 600 case? The cooling capacity is lower, but reviews say it can handle the 5950X as long as I don't OC. The upside is the price (only $60) and I can add a second fan to improve cooling by 1-3 degrees. I also keep the optical drive as-is. Besides cooling capacity, another downside is that I'd have to shelve the brand-new Dark Rock Pro 5 until I could use it in the future. C. Buy a Noctua NH-D15s chromax.black cooler and use my existing Pure Base 600 case? This lets me keep the optical drive and the cooling is apparently between the Slim and the Pro 5. The two downsides are cost (about $120) and the same shelving of the Dark Rock Pro 5. I liked the idea of being all-bequiet, but it's not the end of the world to add this cooler since the aesthetics are close enough. Also, this cooler is supposedly a little bit noisier than the two bequiet coolers. I'm leaning toward A because it means no parts end up sitting unused on a shelf and it gives me maximum performance from the 5950X, but I'm open to others' thoughts...
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So I was in the process of building my first pc and to my understanding everything is fine apart from this. Had minor problems along the way but I’ve managed to get through them. My biggest concern is what happened with the case. Instead of pulling out the meshed shield to install radiators as bequiet’s manual recommends, I removed the whole top pannel not knowing this was a thing. The reason why I missed this part is because bequiet gives me a 1-5 page manual before it turns into another language, so I thought that’s all I got. Turns out on page 50 or so there were more english instructions specifying this. So I remove the top panel and hook up the radiator, etc. When doing so I realized something fell out of the top panel itself (image attached) and it looked rather important. I have no idea where it fell from and would love help from any of you guys. I realized that spring is what activates the mechanism for attaching and detaching side panels. The top panel is properly installed apart from that spring so when I was on last step of putting side panels back together it wouldn’t lock those in. How they work is by pushing a button on the top/rear of the case, releasing something in the corresponding side panel, which I then have to gently pull up to remove. This spring is definitely for that because now the buttons didn't spring out when I tried attaching the side panel’s again. My biggest concern is that it was only one spring that fell out, yet both buttons don't release/react to the side panels. Please help! Let me know if more images are needed I’ll be happy to add them RPReplay_Final1705249878.mp4
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I have been researching to build my first PC. I may decide to go with the be quiet! Pure Base 500 with the window side panel. If I do, I will need to purchase just one additional fan, as the case comes with 2 fans already. The two included fans are DC, not PWM. I have heard that they are good quality (Pure Wings 2), and that they are very quiet even at 900 RPM. I don't want to replace these fans, so I'll keep em and get one extra. So here are my questions: should I get a third DC fan to match the first two, or should I get a PWM fan? If I get a PWM, where would be the best place to install it (instead of one of the DC fans)? Link to Silent Wings 2 DC fan: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4GsKHx/be-quiet-case-fan-bl047
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If so, how has the unit performed over a long term use? just trying to see if there has been any issues with longterm usage.
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Hello there, i have 2 (120mm) BeQuiet Pure Wings 2 fans.. But i can't screw them onto the top from my case, right now the fans are inside the case but some screws are loose.. and i don't know if it will hold the fans or not? Should i take all my PC Parts out and then mount the screws from inside the case to the fan and bring the fan on the metal case (fan holder)? I also tried Silicone screws but then the fans are making a weird noise.. Should i use longer Screws or just the silicone screws with a O-ring between it for stoppen the vibration? And can anybody recommend any good (Screws size LONG screws like radiotor screws but then for Fans) I hope somebody can help me out!
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Basically the title : I can't find a direct comparison for these two, what is the best for a ryzen 5 3600, knowing that silence is an important factor ?
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Hi all, I've just picked up a BeQuiet! Dark Power Pro 11 1000w Platinum PSU. I've built my PC, it's all working fine, except I noticed one fan was always really loud. I set all fans to 500rpm in the BIOS and it was still there, checked again and it's my PSU fan. It's running at 100% speed constantly even when the PC is idle and I can't work out any way to slow it down or stop it. Does anyone know if this indicates a broken unit or whether I can change this? It's very loud and annoying for a "silent" system! Thanks
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Hello. Happy owner of NZXT H440 here, currently have a pretty quiet setup, but rather hot. Don't really know if i have a best cooler setup for it, seeking for the best solution. Current setup in the attachment, CPU in games sitting at 70-75 C, GPU is about the same, 68-75 C. DRP4 is capable (on papper) to handle up to 250W TDP, and cpu is barely hitting 100W, but still getting hot. Not quite sure if its normal. Thermal paste is MX-4. Yes i tried to re-do the application, no change. Case fans spinning ~700-1000 RPM CPU fans ~900 RPM GPU fans ~1200 RPM
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As a title stands. All reviews indicating that temperatures must be around 40 idle and 70-75 under load, but i have 55 idle and 85 under load, in games, when the GPU also producing heat, it can go all the way to 95. Definetely something is wrong. Thermal paste is MX4 2019 I re-seated the tower a couple of times, trying to make it better, with no success. Coolers stays cold to the touch when the cpu is 10 minutes under the torture with 85C, straight line. Bad contact? Bad mounting pad? And yes i removed the plastic cover. No idea where to look at. undervolt -0.0750 offset, LLC level 4, all energy saving features ON, frequency under torture ~4000-4050
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Hello guys.... I realy need help and im kinda clueless whats going on with my Computer... It all startet 3 weeks ago with getting a new GPU. My GF (god bless her) surprised me with a brand new RTX3060 MSI Ventus 2x OC with 12gigs of VRAM. I imedietly smashed it into my system and replaced my outdated GTX970 with it. Now it all began.... MY Computer kept restarting while playing Valorant. I looked for some forum threads were it ppl. said i have to cap my FPS to 144 so it stops. I did it and it worked. for reference i did some benchmarks in games like tomb raider and ac odysey. Everything worked fine and i was fine with it. But after one week my PC did the same thing over and over again sometimes after minutes sometimes after houres of gaming. I looked up some forums again and decided to upgrade my PSU. I switched my PSU from a PSU 500 Watt be quiet! Pure Power 11 CM Modular 80+ Gold to a PSU 650 Watt be quiet! Pure Power 11 FM Modular 80+ Gold.... so 150W more in my pants and I thought i would be good to go. But suddenly after playing the new COD MW2 my computer starts again. I dont know what to do. Please help me...... Here are my Specs: Mainboard: MSI MAG Z490 Tomahawk, So.1200, ATX (7C80-004R) CPU: Intel Core i5 11600K 6x 3.90GHz So.1200 WOF GPU: MSI RTX 3060 12gb Ventus 2x OC RAM: DDR4 32GB (2x 16384MB) G.Skill RipJaws schwarz DDR4-3200 DIMM CL16-18-18-38 Dual Kit SSD M.2:1000GB Samsung 970 Evo Plus SSD: 500gb Samsung 970 PSU: 650 Watt be quiet! Pure Power 11 FM Modular 80+ Gold
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PC Specs: Windows 11 Pro 64bit CPU: i9 12900k MB: Gigabyte Aorus z690 Elite AX DDR4 (BIOS F3a) RAM: 64GB Corsair Vengence RGB Pro 3200 (XMP Enabled) SSD: 980 pro 1TB PSU: beQuiet Dark Power 12 1000w. GPU: Gigabyte Aorus 2080ti Waterforce Extreme / Zotac RTX 3090ti AMP Custom loop with dual 280mm radiators. Was running the new GPU on air first before buying waterblock (good thing I waited). Hi all, Hope to see if anyone knows what else I can do to troubleshoot this before I return one or both products. Did an upgrade from a 2080ti to a 3090ti as well as a PSU upgrade (From a 750w corsair to beQuiet! 1000w). Once I got everything working (initially screen was black after login, did clean driver install with DDU to fix), the first load I put on my new 3090ti caused the whole system to freeze. Rebooted, froze again. Sometimes the PC would restart completely but no video after the reboot (would then have to hard restart). Did another complete driver reinstall along with a reseat of the card, still freezing. I read that this could be related to the power supply. I know the bequiet PSU has the Overclocking option for a single 12v rail, so I tried both with and without that enabled. Also tried a combination of them being on separate rails or the same rail with the OC mode disabled. Nothing fixed the freezing issue. That being said, I am currently typing from said computer with the 2080ti reinstalled after putting it under a full load with OC up to 265w and no freezing. I was also getting a constant (10000+) error in the event viewer about PCI Express Root Port. I'm still getting that error but not constant anymore (with the 2080ti reinstalled) so it may be unrelated. I don't have another power supply that's sufficient to test to see if it's the PSU or if its the GPU so I'm not sure where to go from here.
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Budget (including currency): A$2500 Country: Australia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Light video editing, multimedia, light gaming (no AAA games) Other details I built my first pc in 2015 ..... It's served me well but I feel it's time to hit beast-ish mode. I bought new case last week (Fractal Define 7 Compact), although the fans would be ok I'm replacing them with BeQuiet fans. I got email yesterday my parts have been shipped so I'm very stoked for next week's fun. Here are my beast's organs :-)) MOBO - MSI MAG Z690 Tomahawk Wi-Fi DDR5 A$399 CPU - Intel Core i7 12700 (non K (don't @ me lol (saving A$90 and I've never overclocked))) A$549 CPU COOLER - BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 (with LGA1700 mounting kit) A$229 RAM - Corsair Vengeance 32GB (2x16GB) 5600MHz CL36 DDR5 A$369 STORAGE - Samsung 980 Pro 1TB M.2 (boot drive) & Samsung 980 1TB M.2 (additional storage) (no 2.5 SSD or HDD) A$378 PSU - BeQuiet Pure Power 11 1000w A$239 CASE FANS - Front 2 x Silent Wings 4 140mm PWM 1100rpm, Rear 1 x Pure Wings 2 120mm PWM 1500rpm A$97 will go for positive pressure running front at 100% 13.6 (dB(A)) and drop rear fan to 900rpm. COST TO DATE - A$2395 I have already prepped the case, removed case fans, run front i/o cables to where they'll be needed, and removed HDD drive cage. I'm going to hold off on GPU till end of year and reuse my ASUS Strix GTX970 in the meantime :-((( I'll add photos to this next week, I'll try to do a better job at internal cable management this time around lol (refer previous build) Photos added. A lot of sag on the GPU but that's what happens when you get old. exceot for the power LED and an annoying power LED on the GPU (will fix that with some electrical tape lol) it's totally blacked out and incredibly silent.
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Budget (including currency): / Country: / Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Mainly Photoshop and Clip Studio Paint for the SO, Streaming, 1440p / 1080p gaming, General productivity Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Most important thing to keep in mind - coming from a former ITX building background I am quite used to pushing hardware to thermal or power limits. I don't care about too much headroom. Also no future upgrades for this - this is an upgrade to the existing platforms we have and the next time I buy any hardware it will be completely new systems without any concern about reusing things from these builds. So as discussed here: https://linustechtips.com/topic/1459454-upgrade-or-go-to-new-platform/#comment-15595858 this is an ongoing planning / upgrade process for my and my SOs computers. I have so far upgraded the cases and cooling. I have obtained some of these parts due to price/availability and aesthetics. More comments below. List of parts that are set in stone (and to be reused): - Asrock B450 Steel Legend (both computers) - G.Skill Trident Z 32GB (2x16) DDR4-3200 CL16-18-18-38 on my PC; G.Skill Sniper X 64GB (4x16) DDR4-3000 CL15-15-15-36 - 650W Gold rated fully modular PSUs (both computers, Corsair RM650 in my machine, Riotoro Enigma G2 in SOs machine) - LianLi O11 Air Mini Case w/ 4x 140mm fans (2 front intake, 2 top exhaust), 3x 120mm fans (2 bottom intake, 1 back exhaust) (both computers) - Pure Rock 2 FX CPU coolers (both computers - should do well in cooling anything up to 150W tdp with the good airflow and pretty open mesh case, not planning any overclocking stock speeds only) ^ got this cause: a) price was outstanding at around 35 EUR per; b) looks awesome and is hella quiet; c) this very detailed review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OS_n5_3jHW8 We plan to use these machines for a few years and only then upgrade to completely new platforms/machines. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- THE QUESTIONS: 1. 5950X vs 5900X? I know cooling performance might be cutting it close but I've checked PCPartpicker and google and from my own ITX building experience I've seen and experienced worse. Occasional throttling or higher temps under load won't be an issue. That being said I've also read that 5950X has better binned dies while the 5900X has worse bins, and thus the 5950X can run cooler even though it has more cores. All that being said - can I pull off a 5950X on these machines each or do I settle for the 5900X. I definitely plan to undervolt with negative offset setting as much as possible, but I don't plan to use PBO - pure stock will be fine. Also is it worth paying the price premium over the 5900X for the better bins and more cores/threads? 2. RTX 3070 (non Ti) + 5950X + 650W PSUs? I know it should be fine, I've seen a PCPartpicker build like this too, even this article says 550W with a midrange GPU should be fine: https://www.techreviewer.com/best-tech/amd-5950x-power-supply/ In ITX since SFF power supplies used to be at most 650W I know there were some builds that really pushed some components without leaving much headroom at all, but still - would love to hear some encouraging opinions. 3. Do I buy now or do you think prices will drop significantly by EoY? In my country we don't see significant discounts for XMAS or Black Friday and such. No huge major retailers that can afford it so prices stay around the norm, with the occasional discount but sometimes the prices are marked up before discounts so it's like there was never a discount to begin with. That being said if prices in general drop I expect to see some lower prices here as well. Buying online from sites like computeruniverse that may see bigger discounts for holidays is also an option, but that would mean import fees and no local warranty if anything goes wrong. So, do you expect prices to go down by more than 10-15% by EoY or should I just buy now since I don't care for waiting if it means just a minor drop in price. For reference current prices for the parts I'm considering here locally are: 5900X - starting 420 EUR 5950X - starting 600 EUR RTX 3070 (non Ti) - starting 580 EUR for Zotac 2 fan cards and 640 EUR for 3 fan cards from major OEMs (MSI, Gigabyte etc) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- As per usual if you read everything and are considering helping me out or just sharing your opinion - I THANK YOU IN ADVANCE! ~ Hope you have a lovely day!
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Goodday everyone! I ordered the FD north case and I'm thinking of replacing the stock fans right away. I ve been searching fow quiet fans with good airflow and came across the bequiet 140 silentwing 4 and the noctua NF-A14, both use PWM. At the back I m thinking of using the Phanteks T30 since I heard it's the best 120 fan in the market. The bequiet will cost me 30€ and the noctua 35€ each. Which one would you recommend for my case? BTW I am open to cheaper alternatives as long as the performance is similar to the above fans.
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Hey guys I m going to buy a bq dark rock 4 but the fan is covering my ramslot. i cannot put the fan on the ram because my case would be to small. (max height: 165mm; fan onto the ram: 167mm)(nzxt h210). Can i put every fan on the cooler with the metal clips?(a bq pure wing 2 120mm would fit on the ram) is it possible with the pure wing 2? or are there „aircooler only“ fans from bequiet thanks
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Hey ho folks, my name's Liam and I want to get back to my first and most favourite hobby: computers. Earlier I was only looking for gaming performance but I sold my last PC to prepare for a huge trip to Indonesia. Now that I needed to return to Germany, I plan on creating a Youtube channel, stream some single player video games and maybe even program a small server or at least get into Linux later. To speed things up, I will answer the guideline questions in reverse order. 5. Why are you upgrading? / 2. Aim Well I currently do not have a PC and my Elitebook G1 840 from HP doesn't offer the calculation power to run DaVinci Resolve 16. It lacks CPU performance as well as a GPU (I like CUDA support for rendering). But for office work I cannot complain. It taught me alot about how to get along with limited ressources. My goals are: video editing 1080p 30fps DaVinci Resolve 16 decent working speeds (with optimized media) average to good rendering speeds later I would like to switch to Open Source software or pay for the full DaVinci license office / programming / DJing as I said before, for normal office works and Rekordbox the Elitebook is good enough even simple programming can easily be done with the Elitebook the Elitebook starts getting unpleasant when I need more desktop/ display space for running multiple servers like Apache or for Engine Prime from Denon DJ the Elitebook lacks power multi boot I want to run a quick multi boot system with Windows 10 gaming streaming nice workflows Linux Mint programming getting to know new software testing alternatives to Windows gaming graphic heavy single player games like Tomb Raider graphic heavy multi player games like Battlefield games that don't need alot of ressources but benifit from it, e.g. LoL prefer G-Sync since I remember the flawless, smooth movements of picture and cursor (fell in love with it) streaming since I want to get into Youtube, I probably won't stop and then create a small YT-studio from which I gonna stream got a Stream Deck yet as a gift from a friend (use it for certain workflows → macros) silence / performance I want a silent build I want to do overclocking after the warranty runs out, so after two (2) years looks I don't care much about the looks since I won't look at the PC 24/7 and it is going to be placed on the ground As you may see, I need an allrounder. Let's jump ahead. 4. Peripherals already got Corsair K95 Platinum RGB with Cherry MX Speed switches and won't give that away Corsair Glaive RGB 3. Monitors want / need G-Synch-able monitor 1080p or 1440p thought of the Acer Predator XB3 XB253QGPbmiiprzx, 24.5" maybe getting a second and a third one later when the money flows in 1. Budget & Location Budget 1000 - 2000 € Location Germany (€) 0. The Build So here is a list of all the components, but I nail them down here again for everybody to read. Monitor - Acer Predator XB3 XB253QGPbmiiprzx, 24.5" G-Sync very good reviews Motherboard - ASUS Prime X570-Pro (232€) Pros upgradability two M.2 slots for NVME (good for my dual boot Win/ Linux system) cannot go wrong with ASUS looks insanely well nice cooling for components Cons pricy may get into conflict with the air cooler Dark Rock Pro 4 CPU - AMD Ryzen 7 3700X, 8x 3.60GHz (290€) good for multi thread rendering nessesary for 3200 MHz DDR4 RAM without overclocking the CPU thus keeping the warranty plenty battle power for upcoming gaming titles drops in price regularely alternatively AMD Ryzen 5 3600X, 6x 3.80GHz (200€) AMD Ryzen 7 3800X, 8x 3.90GHz (310€) Graphics card - MSI GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER Ventus GP OC (418€) alternativly MSI GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GT OC (135€) MSI GeForce GTX 1660 Ti Ventus XS 6G OC (300€) I do not nessesarily need raytracing but I know that even without RTX the 2060 SUPER offers more performance than the other candidates Memory - Crucial Ballistix Sport LT white 1x 16GB, DDR4-3200 (91€) fits underneath the CPU cooler can buy up to 3 additional DIMMs later no real alternative found since I want to upgrade later with the same DIMM Storage Version 1 Corsair Force Series MP510 480GB, M.2 (92€) referred to by Linus Tech Tips good price getting one for Windows 10 and one for Linux later (dual boot) Samsung SSD 860 QVO 2TB, SATA (200€) Version 2 Samsung Pro Evo 860 250GB (56€) Samsung Spinpoint M9T 2TB (81€) Case / cooling be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 (72€) the new, not realeased beQuiet Dark Base 500 DX (probably around 130€) alternatively beQuiet Dark Base 500 (72€) Power Supply Unit (PSU) beQuiet Straight Power 11 (106€) fully modular silent never had problems with beQuiet before The whole build would cost from around 1278€ (link) to 2000€ (link). Since I don't need the PC immediately I could wait for special offers and buy the parts when they are cheaper than average. Maybe you guys could give me some advice if I am bottlenecking the CPU since the GPU could be an RTX 2070 or if I rather invest money in a different motherboard and use a PCIe to M.2 card instead. Maybe you got some knowledge where I could save money or better use different parts.
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Upgrading my cooler as it's not good enough for my i7, so was just wondering if the Be Quiet Dark Rock 4 would be suitable for an i79700k, I would go for the Dark Rock Pro 4 but that is way too big for my case. Alternatively I was looking at the NZXT Kraken M22 single 120mm aio as a full 2 120mm rad doesn't fit inside my case. Thanks!
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- i7
- air cooling
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First of all: Yes I am guilty of gaming on a PC and a Playstation. Don't wanna miss out on Final Fantasy, affordable VR and Couch-Coop But my PS4 Pro is 4 years old, got louder over time and especially more demanding games make it sound like a jet engine. When playing Shadow of the Tomb Raider for about 15 minutes the Sound Level reached over 65 decibels! I know this measurement isn't perfectly reliable but it is good enough as a comparison and way better than with those decibel-meter apps So anyways I decided to do something about that. I did my research, went shopping and here is what I did: First of all I consulted ifixit.com on how to strip it down to the MB. Then I prepared the APU with nail polish before applying liquid metal instead of the cheap thermal compound as der8auer taught us I used Coolaboratory Liquid Ultra since it is a little thicker than Liquid Pro and more conveniant to apply. The mosfets got new PHOBYA XT thermal pads. Now to the other side of the MB where the eight 512 MB RAM chips are located. Those got solid copper heatsinks. In order for the fan to cool them I had to dremel out a portion of the metal plate that covers the MB. Now I cut a few holes in top and bottom cover on which I mounted 120mm BeQuiet Pure Wings 2 fans with Aquatuning dust covers. One on the top to push fresh air into the stock cooler. And one on the bottom to cool the RAM and the back of the MB under the APU. To power the fans i soldered a two-pin fan cable directly to the 12V fan controller of the PS4 Pro. To still be able to control the fanspeed I used the Noctua NA-FC1 fan controller and hooked the Pure Wings up to it. The cables mostly run inside the PS4. I asked a friend to print me four feet for the PS4 to give the bottom fan enough clearance. While I was at it I also replaced the slow HDD with a Samsung QVO 1 TB SSD. So now all there's left to do is wait for a thunderstorm and yell: "IT'S ALIVE! IT'S ALIIIIIIVE!!!" Later I found out that the whole build including the new feet was too wide for the old spot on my subwoofer So I repurposed the feet and positioned the PS4 in the upright position. And I gotta say after the whole mod I like it way better that way. I can tell you that the result is significantly quieter than before and not annoying at all. Noticeable at best and that's all I was aiming for. After the same 15 minutes of playing SotTR I measured a sound level of only 51 decibels. That's 14 less that before! And by the way: the SSD literally cut my loading times in half. Before it took about 90 seconds from dashboard to start playing in Shadow of the Tomb Raider. Now it's 40 seconds! So that's about it. Thanks a lot for sticking with me until that point and feel free to ask if you want to know anything. Cheers from Switzerland Martin
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- ps4 pro
- liquid metal
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Hi there, I’m choosing to upgrade my CPU cooler since it is now summer for me and idle temps are mid 50s to 60s while using the stock Wraith Stealth on my Ryzen 3600. I’m trying to choose between these three coolers given that they’re in the same category of single fan tower coolers. Essentially, I’m hoping to improve temps by upgrading but will going with a Noctua cooler be worth the extra money vs the cheaper Hyper 212? ($70 vs $38 currently) I’ve also heard that the BeQuiet cooler is essentially the same as a Hyper 212 but with a better fan and almost negligible performance gains. Is this true? I realize that I’m comparing two more premium options to a more budget friendly option but I would like to assess all possibilities. Thanks!
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I have recently been looking at parts to build a new PC. As I research, I like to make sure to do my best to find the best value to price ratio products whilst also maintaining a high enough quality for my liking. Through my research ( which I started yesterday 28/05/20) I have found that the market for ATX cases has some very good options at the moment for affordable prices (UK at least). Looking specifically at mid-towers for a high standard i9-9900k-2070 super build which can be compact to move around if necessary, I've found three (maybe five) cases that could be very suitable and would like to get some feedback from owners of these specific products down below! Firstly, we have the BeQuiet Pure Base 500DX which honestly has a great overall score from good thermals to low noise levels. This is a very interesting option but what holds me back is the looks of the other contenders which, for me, are better. Price £90-£100 | 3 fans included Secondly, the Phanteks P400A. Also a great overall performer, possibly even better than the 500DX. The looks on this case suit my style much more and, for the same price and size, it looks like a slightly better option. Price £90 | 3 fans included Thirdly, the best looking contender of the bunch, the Cooler Master TD500 mesh. The benchmarks used for this "review" have all been taken from Gamers Nexus' Youtube reviews on the cases to try to maintain a controlled variable. However the fact that a review from them of the Cooler Master case hasn't come out yet, means that this can be a biased opinion. The TD500 mesh seems like a great overall case for around the same price point, the thermals seem to be good but I have not ffound any reviews of the noise emission. However its main attraction to me, is the beautiful aesthetics of the case. I am looking for a white PC build and the colour pallet (light gray and white) is very appealing to me when trying to make my decision. Price £100 | 3 fans included Overall, these three cases are very good options and, from what I see, they won't leave you with any regrets. However they each have different appeals. I would like to know your suggestions and any feedback from owners of these products Honourable mentions: Fractal Meshify C and SilverStone Fara R1
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So I want to get some cables from @CableMod but I am a bit confused about my PCIe requirements. While using the configurator to choose just the cables I will need for my build I came across the following option: Dual 8 Pin PCI-E. Since I have a Fury X which needs two 8-pins can I just get one of these and will my PSU (be quiet! Dark Power Pro 10 750W) be able to supply enough power to the card from only a single cable?
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Pure Base 600: https://goo.gl/d7Ab01 Available in Canada: https://goo.gl/ydnxdM Available in USA: https://goo.gl/Eg5wuf
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Hello guys I have Snapfire redion r9 270x and i need PSU . So i look arrownd and I find BeQuiet BQT E5-600W PSU for cheap . So is this good PSU for this video card ?
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Hello, I head that BeQuiet is giving free mountings for AM4 socket. But as I saw there are none for BeQuiet Pure Rock. Is there still a possibility to get mountings for this cooler?
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Hi everyone, I'm researching a new build, and have ran into the following issue - beQuiet Dark Rock Pro 3 and G.skill Trident Z compatibility. The ddr4 modules have a height of 44mm and the cpu cooler has 34.9mm clearance below the front fan and 39mm clearance below the heatsink (http://www.bequiet.com/volumes/PDM/_products/bk019/bk019_dim_en.pdf). Judging by the figures above, they should not fit. However, I found multiple builds on pcpartpicker where the TridentZ ram has exactly enough height below the cpu cooler (http://pcpartpicker.com/b/T4zMnQ) My question is the following: is there a height difference between ram slots and the cpu socket? How could 44mm high ram modules fit under a cpu cooler that has a maximum of 39mm clearance? Am I missing something? Thanks in advance!
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- tridentz
- dark rock pro 3
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