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  1. Finishing up a mod for my Razer Huntsman Mini. I have been sick and tired of wires on my desk for a very long time, and technology to replace all cables does exist now, so I figured this was the time to make my dreams real. The basic idea is to attach a wireless charge mat to the bottom of my keyboard, and place Qi charging pads underneath my desk mat. I have already cut a piece of foam to hide my Logitech Powerplay mat, so I had a good idea that this would work. In practice, this idea loses its legs fairly quickly, because you not only have to attach a wireless charging receiver, but also a battery and some way for the keyboard to transmit key presses in a mostly latency free way. Oh, and I really didn't want to wind up spending more money on this mod than the keyboard itself was worth, and ideally I didn't want to spend more than about $50. Finding a suitable Qi charging receiver was actually really easy, apparently these exist as phone accessories for people with phone that don't have wireless charging. You can find ones like this one I used on Amazon for about $13. My solution was this- using a Raspberry Pi Zero W, I installed VirtualHere server, a USB over LAN software that's actually free so long as you're only using one device, and attached the Pi W to a large dual-cell battery bank. I wound up using this one which I already had lying around, but a newer one with USB C charging could be beneficial. The most important thing here is that the battery bank continuously provides power. Some battery banks switch over from the cell to the USB charging port, resulting in the Raspberry Pi turning off and rebooting every time you remove it from the wireless charging mat. Next I cut a hole in the bottom of a wooden prototype case that I could pass the wireless receiver's USB plug through. Finally, I cut two holes into my desk mat in the spots I most commonly use my keyboard. One hole was cut in the center for typing, and the other in the top left for gaming. Quick note here, the angles that the Huntsman Mini normally allow you to adjust the keyboard from 6 degrees to 9 degrees (nice), but I found that I needed the keyboard raised at a 15 degree angle to fit every part underneath the faceplate. I don't really notice the difference, but some people might, so I wanted to let you know. The final step was officially putting the thing together. I unscrewed the face plate of the Huntsman Mini, which was remarkably easy, and then I had a fabricator model and 3D print a new case for the keyboard. The final result looks absolutely fabulous, with 4 screw mounting points in the corners and lot of open space for placing each component. The purple model is one of the prototypes, but the internal design is exactly the same as the final product. Once I had every component in place, I marked out empty spaces that I could fill with cheap metal tire weights like these to add some more weight to the keyboard. Make sure to cover all of the exposed metal with tape so that the circuitry doesn't short. The last thing anyone wants next to their fingers is a lithium ion battery that's shorting out! (Fun fact, depending on how you place the weights, you can create your own cable channels for the USB wires that need to be run. I don't know how to solder, or the internals would be much more space efficient.) With all of the internal parts placed, the last thing to do is close everything up! This post mostly focuses on the physical mod, but setting up the Raspberry Pi with VirtualHere is really simple. They have a guide posted here for how to install the server program on a Linux machine, and guides for how to automatically start a program on boot exist all over the internet. One last thing to take care of is to install the VirtualHere client on your windows machine, and follow this guide on how to set a program to start on boot in Windows 10 so that VirtualHere is detecting keyboard inputs before you have to log in. (A keyboard isn't worth much if you can't log into Windows with it lol) Once your software is configured, you're basically good to go! The best thing about this is that using USB over LAN is pretty seamless as long as you don't plan on taking your keyboard out of your house. Plus, now your keyboard has a computer inside of it, so the options for taking work on the go are pretty cool as well! And to address concerns over latency, 2.4ghz signals are already what most wireless peripherals use to transmit, and in games I have noticed no discernable delay between using a wired keyboard instead of this wireless solution. Otherwise, that's it guys! I added a small LED that illuminates to show when the keyboard is charging, and some small marks on my mouse mat to act as guides for setting the keyboard down, and the mod was complete. This mod could theoretically work for any keyboard in existence and only costs about $40 so long as you already have a couple of USB cables laying around. Obviously there are some improvements to be made, such as using fast charging Qi pads, adapters, and a battery bank that accepts USB C charging, as well as a way to check the battery percentage of the keyboard, but each of those add-ons adds cost, and the idea here was to create this mod for as little extra money as possible. I think I was pretty successful, but let me know what you think!
  2. Hello, I hope your day isn’t going too bad so far? Anyone know their stuff about 3D printers? Put it simple. Budget Ideally £300-800 Realistic max? £1000-£1200 odd Want it pre Built! looking for the FASTEST printer lol And ideally decent shipping times I’m in uk Would it be possible to look into this, please? thank you sincerely for responding to me, Your kindness is appreciated. I hope this is not a hassle for you and Have a Wonderful day ahead!
  3. This is just a mind-blowing project this guy is doing, check it out: github.com/riskable/void_switch. I just think if y'all could leave a star at his repositories, maybe it'll revive his interest in continuing the project If I understand correctly, here are some things about this keyboard: The keys' functionality is given by magnetic attraction/repulsion, so you can: vary the tactility by increasing the width of plastic between two magnets, and you can also change the travel by increasing the length of the stem. the PCB uses hall effect sensors to detect key presses, so your keyboard is analog and you can change the distance at which a key triggers. This also has the benefit of allowing you to simply pull off all your keys from your keyboard and wash it, dry it, put it back, it can not get any simpler (check the gif in the project readme at the bottom). If a key breaks or gets oily or whatever, print another one for pennies. If you have the soldering skills, you could also repair the PCB but this one probably applies to all keyboards. Have diplomatic flags on your keyboard so you can park it anywhere, lol. You can also have an oreo dispenser or a mouse bungee. You could probably change the keyboard layout to whatever you like. There's probably a lot more I'm forgetting, oh yes one thing, you can apparently hook up relays to make it more clicky!! here are some videos about the keyboard. Could someone tell me how to get LTT to make a video about this?
  4. Hi Everyone, I've been trying to print ABS with my Ender 3 s1 Pro, and I'm having a lot of issues. The print is perfect for about the first few layers, I have no issues with bed adhesion and my bed print does not warp upwards, however as soon as I print over 1cm or have supports, I get issues. The supports themselves print fine, but the actual part that gets printed on top of the supports don't sticks and start warping upward very badly. I have a makeshift enclose for the printer and this helps a little, but I still have the issue. Does anyone know, if there's something I'm missing or can try? ABS Spec 210c - 240c (not damp) Cura Default settings a no go, and I've also played a lot with advanced settings with no luck so far. Print temps tried 215c - 235c Bed temp 110c Speed 40mm/s Cooling fan off Pics 1. MINI All In One 3D printer test scaled down 50%, and warps when printing vertically (this is not from the overhang as it starts messing up before it overhangs) 2. Custom part I'm trying to make, but it warps off the supports Thanks
  5. Summary Prusa announced their new 3-D Printer Model today - the MK4. This new model boasts many improvements as compared to the MK3 model. It offers many exciting new features such as no first layer calibration (due to a Load Cell sensor), quick swap nozzles, decreased printing time, and automatic filament loading. There is an optional addon which will allow printing with up to five different colors/materials at the same time! This new model of printer seems to have all of the best features of the MK3 and Mini+, along with many more features that make this printer a massive improvement to either. Quotes My thoughts To me, this new model is extremely exciting. I really enjoy some of the UI changes on the new screen - especially the progress bar. Another neat thing about the UI is the ability to modify it to your liking, only showing the things that are important to you. I would consider the best feature of the MK4 to be that there is no required first layer calibration. This greatly simplifies the set up process and should allow people to get into 3-D printing without some of the hassle of the other models. This post only covers what I consider to be the most exciting aspects of the MK4, feel free to look through the sources and video for more information. Sources https://makezine.com/article/digital-fabrication/3d-printing-workshop/prusa-announces-new-flagship-3d-printer-the-mark-4/ https://blog.prusa3d.com/announcing-original-prusa-mk4_76585/ https://blog.prusa3d.com/the-state-of-open-source-in-3d-printing-in-2023_76659/ https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-mk4-2/#samples As @Wardus pointed out, the LTT screwdriver made an appearance in the announcement video at 2:50 in.
  6. here you can find my marlin root ; the pin declaration do seem alright to me basically the port2 does not work, the port should be used for the filament's cooling fans meanwhile port0 and port1 do work, but the fans are keept at 100% (judging from the sound), but the printer does display them as if they were at 0%, if I do set from the printer display some other value, it looks that it's doing something, like they do slightly lower the fan sound, or produce some whining at 50%, but they do not stop
  7. I'm curious if anyone has used a case prototyper (like Protocase.com) and 3D printers to make a computer that looks like an old IBM PS/2 computer but houses standard ATX components so they can have a stealth PC? I attached an image of what I am trying to decide if I should try and make.
  8. Hello and thank you for reading this, I Just got myself a 3D printer and was trying to work on some 3D Models on my old Laptop. I tried to use Meshmixer, Lychee Slicer and Photon Workshop but I'm always getting error messages telling me that my GPU doesn't support OpenCL2 (Meshmixer is asking for OpenCL3). My Laptops specs are: Intel i5-460M 2.53GHz AMD Mobility Radeon HD 5850 8GB of basic Ram It is a 17" Acer Laptop I bought back in 2013. All the other basic components are standard Acer OEM parts and I'm running Windows 10. So let me get into some detail. As I described, I couldn't get the necessary software running on my Radeon HD 5850. I disabled my GPU and had the software run on my CPUs integrated graphics which apparently supports OpenCL2. I checked my GPU with CapsViewer before that but couldn't find any support information about OpenCL for my Card. I checked all my driver's and they are up to date as far as I could see. Since it is an old card the latest driver for my GPU I could find was version Radeon 15.7.1. My questions are: How can I get OpenCL2 or newer running on my GPU? Is there maybe some slicing software that only requires OpenCL1? If there is no way to make this work for me, which GPUs should I have a look at to build a budget 3D Modeling PC? Thank you very much for reading this. All the best wishes to you!
  9. So I'm interested in 3d printing Don't exactly have many uses for it and live in Australia. The main things I would make are mini figures Would this be a decent beginner printer ? Any recommendations or advice would be most welcome https://www.3dprintingsupplier.com.au/product/creality-ld-002h-resin-3d-printer/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAq7COBhC2ARIsANsPATGZhBSY3ZQH4v7KB8KI7PjXeQe5QxOo0xaizsZaYo8MgYs4KC5gk9saAhtLEALw_wcB
  10. Hello all, messing around on a Ender 3 v2, I am new to the 3D printing hobby. I am messing around with my bed leveling and am using a 0.05mm feeler gauge to level the bed. Wondering what the best way to adjust Z height after the fact is, as I cant seem to find what im looking for in Cura or on Google. I would imaging I would want to adjust my Z offset something like +0.05mm, giving me a 0.10mm gap, correct? Which setting should I be adjusting? Or will I have to get the Z height plugin? Thanks
  11. I've seen the BOM kits & the 3d printed component kits but not both together unless it's from Alibaba or a Hong Kong based eBay account. Why is this? & While you're here, would you recommend building one?
  12. Hello, I liked the support for the ender 3, but manual bed leveling was aggravating. In a new printer I want: Auto-bed-leveling A large build area (250mm cube or more) High nozzle temps Bulletproof reliability ~500$ max budget That has led me to two printers: Creality Ender 5 plus GAURORA A5S 305x305x320mm Besides form factor & brand these two printers spec the same, except GAURORA is coming in ~200$ cheaper. You can check my other posts about scrounging free parts & shit to see how thin a budget I will use. Which printer is better? Is the creality worth the ~200$ more? Is there another printer I should consider? (I drool over the voron 2.4 but it's out of my budget, with this 3d printer I intend to work on a few projects, but also print the printed parts for a voron with it. Because if I do come into voron size money, printing the parts myself (145$ value for 10$ in plastic) would be almost as much savings as the printer's resale value will have depreciated. Plus I can wait and hope for voron parts to get cheaper, voron to come out with a dual extruder version, or both while I am 3d printing on either "old reliable" (creality) or the "blocky wallet saver" (GAURORA).)
  13. 3d printing newbie here, need some advice. I recently got an extruder upgrade for my Ender 3 Pro. Because of this, I knew I should calibrate my e-steps (with Pronterface). Until now, I've been printing from an SD card without issues, so this was the first time I connected my printer via USB. However, when I did this and opened Pronterface, no printer seemed to be connected. Further investigation showed that the printer as "USB Serial" in Device Manager, and I was told that there were no installed drivers. I then tried to install the drivers that came with the factory SD card, but Device manager tells me that "Windows could not find drivers for your device". I then tried using official FTDI drivers,and even tried using a different windows PC, but I ended up achieving the same results. Does anyone know what might be causing this and how I can fix this issue? It's a v3 as well, if that helps
  14. Budget (including currency): $1000 +/- US, but Country: US Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Chitubox, Lychee Slicer. Other details Greetings! I am thinking of building a computer specifically to run ChituBox for slicing and saving files the Fastest possible. I'm am wondering if anyone knows what computers / processors are best. I print 3D Fantasy Miniatures for a business and want to know the most efficient way to do so. I do not play games often or at all. This is a only to run Chitubox and slice files. Thats it. Suggestions or Links to any articles / Info? I currently have a 2019 27" 5K iMac with a 3 ghz 6 core i5 with 40GB of ram (upgrading to 64GB on Sunday). I have built several PC's including my son's $3000 Intel Based Gaming rig. I am leaning toward making a RYZEN based machine (despite my son's cursing at AMD). I have 6 Mars 2 Pros and an EPAX E10 (arrived last week). I am constantly slicing files to print but the times are so inconsistent. Some times they are a minute or so, sometimes HOURS. This a more often happens when saving a sliced file. Need to speed up my production Process. Thanks in advance! Michael a.k.a. The Arcane Gearsmith
  15. Hello, here last build project, I designed and modeled and then 3D printed the structure. -Raspberry Pi 3b+ -7 inch IPS Touchscreen Monitor, TeNizo 1024x600 Capacitive Touch Screen HD HDMI -Usb wifi adapter TP link (just because it looks cool with it ^^ ) Softwear use to CAD modeling: MOI3D 3d Printer: Prusa i3mks Hope you enjoy it
  16. so here i`m again. looking for assistance on choosing between 2 3d printers i have been looking videos for few days. so here are my 2 options: Creality Ender 3 V2 Creality Ender 3 Pro Idea at the moment is to get something that i cant print some fpv accessories for my upcoming builds. When it comes to prices. there aren't much difference (~40 Eur) between them. And plus importing via amazon them to ireland. (Have prime, but lately few pc things makes me pay import, idk why) So my question is not about witch one prints better or faster. But which one would be better choice for occasional print. at the moment i don't plan anything but fpv parts. maybe.i will print few toys for my goddaughter. like those octopuses or whatever. Who knows. what comes to modding of these 2 printers. i have general idea what i could try to do. to make the a bit silent and few other things. Maybe some of you already have one or both of these, maby you can tell me your thoughts on these aswell and maybe suggest something. Thanks in advance… :)*
  17. So I've been 3D printing for awhile and I just got a new printer a Sovol SV06 but it uses micro SD and not a standard SD card. I hate using micro SD's their hard to remove from the printer along with being easily lost. Is there a cord or adapter that goes from USB to Micro SD? Iv searched but only come up with USB>MicroSD My thought was if there was an adapter that had a female USB to MicroSD I can just plug my standard SD>USB converter to transfer the slicer flies to the printer?
  18. Hello Everyone, Trying to see if anyone has had this problem and knows a solution for it. I am getting warping on my print, but it right at the support not on the bed level (see the picture). I know many places said to make mess with the bed settings, but in this case the print it not on the bed, it is on the supports. Also at this time I am trying not to rotate it, but that might just be what I have to do. However, will see if anyone has a solution before I do that. I have printed it flat before with no issues. Thank you for your help. Printer: Ender 3-S1, stock Pint Settings: I am using Overture PETG. Recommended settings from the manufacture are: Manufacture Recommended Settings: Print Temp: 230-250 C Bed Temp: 80-90 C Printing Speed: 30-50 Cooling Fan: On Slicer Software is Ultimaker Cura 5.0.0. Quality: layer height: .12mm Walls Wall Thickness: 1.2mm Wall Line Count: 3 Horizontal Expansion: 0.0mm Z Seam Alignment: User Specified Z Seam Position: Back Z Seam X: 0.0mm Z Seam Y: 110.0mm Z Seam Relative: "Yes" Top/Bottom Top/Bottom Thickness: 0.84mm Top Thickness: 0.84mm Top Layers: 7 Bottom Thickness: 0.84mm Bottom Layers: 7 Infill Infill Density: 20.0% Infill Pattern: Cubic Material Printing Temperature: 240.0 C Build Plate Temperature: 85.0 C Speed Print Speed: 35.0mm/s Travel Enable Retraction: "Yes" Z Hop When Retracted: "No" Cooling Enable Print Cooling: "Yes" Fan Speed: 100.0% Support Generate Support: "Yes" Support Placement: Touching Baldpate Support Overhang Angle: 59.0 Support Pattern: Lines Use Towers: "No" Build Plate Adhesion Build Plate Adhesion Type: Raft P.S. (plug) If anyone is interested, I am making 3D printed retro game cartridge's for keychains or whatever else you want to use them for (Gift tags? ). Currently I have a N64, working on this Gameboy Cartridge, and have modeled a SNES cartridge as well. I create the models myself and I can make them to scale or smaller. If you are interested let me know and I can send you some pictures.
  19. hi all, I'm interested in learning about 3d printing , i've seen vids on youtube going over the printers but most are in USD or 'too high end' my main goal is to make a shelf that sits ontop of my pc monitors to old my plushies and controllers , - what 3D printer would you recommend for someone with little to no expectance (thats available in the united kingdom or off amazon ) - best types of filament? -general advice thank you in advance
  20. I am vary new to 3d printing, 3-4days. I am printing a paint brush rinsing cup and I keep getting these rough patches that are raised up a little but the print seems to still be attached to the plate just fine. This is the 3rd try (see pictures) and I have tried raising the bed temp and the printhead temp but neither seemed to work. I've calibrated the bed so it's level. No other print seems to have this issue but they haven't been this big. I'm using an Ender 3 pro.
  21. Budget (including currency): USD Preferred Range 1800-2000| Hard Cap 2500 Country: United States Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Non-Games: Fusion 360; SolidWorks; Blender; Premier Pro and other Adobe Creative Cloud Products; PrusaSlicer, Simplify 3D, Cura Games: RuneScape; SC2; Civ 6; Stellaris | Upcoming: Star Citizen(Maybe lol) and Chronicles of Elyria Expected Build Time-Frame: Late August 2020; potentially waiting slightly longer to allow for new product releases / price drops due to new product releases. Other details : Background: I just want to start out by saying I totally understand that gaming and editing machines don’t mix well. While I would want to maintain the ability to game comfortably, you’ll note from the games I play that it is not as primary of a feature of what I would like to accomplish with this. I currently use a 4-display setup with 2 being 1920x1080 and 2 being 3840 x 2160 I do not remember the models as I am cross country currently from my setup. 4k gaming is not very important to me but would be nice to do as currently I can still only go up to 1080 in games even on the 4k monitors due to the lack of strength in the current system. The primary intent of this machine will to create an editing/production machine for creating video and editing 3D files for content creation and 3D Printing. Videos will be working with 4k 60 FPS RAW and exporting in 1080 Primarily and 4k if possible. I am generally happy with the build below but would like general feedback/constructive criticism and help on the local storage solution: To the actual point of the post: I would like to ensure local redundancy with RAID as I have had drives fail in the past and while data was recovered or backed up externally, it was a headache to get up and running again with any type of speed. I will be getting a NAS in the future (Q1 2021) and have plenty of external storage right now to hold me over until that point. In the list I intend to us the M.2 for a boot and main program drive; and the HDDs in RAID 6 to allow 4 TB of usable space with two redundancy. As I have found again and again hardware RAID is recommended over software and is essentially necessary for RAID 6. However, I worry about write speeds with RAID 6 especially since I am having a hard time vetting a RAID controller as much of the information seems to be older. The Questions: What RAID controller would those with the knowledge recommend? Is RAID 6 overkill in a local machine? Is it even possible? Does AMD hinder this in any way and should I look to Intel? PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($289.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Corsair H115i PRO 55.4 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($159.99 @ Best Buy) Motherboard: MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard ($169.99 @ Best Buy) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($134.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Patriot VPN100 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($87.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($58.98 @ Newegg) Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($58.98 @ Newegg) Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($58.98 @ Newegg) Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($58.98 @ Newegg) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB GAMING OC Video Card ($693.98 @ Newegg) Case: Cooler Master HAF XB EVO ATX Desktop Case ($109.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: NZXT C 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($129.99 @ B&H) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($142.88 @ Other World Computing) Case Fan: Noctua NF-R8 redux-1800 31.37 CFM 80 mm Fan ($9.94 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM 107.41 CFM 140 mm Fan ($27.95 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM 107.41 CFM 140 mm Fan ($27.95 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua NF-A20 PWM 86.46 CFM 200 mm Fan ($30.00) Total: $2251.55 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-05-25 15:47 EDT-0400
  22. I have been looking into getting a 3d printer, however most websites i go to (including amazon.com) charge much higher than my budget of $500 CAD. Ontop of this certain models on Amazon.ca cost much more than on amazon.com even with the exchange rate factored in. So where should i look , and any suggestions on a model?
  23. its not perfect but i came up with a simple design for a test bench requires superglue and screws and will print in a 140mm diameter x250 high have fun 1. base center v2.STL 2. base front.STL 3. base back.STL angle left.STL back part a.STL back part b.STL blank side test bench.STL pcie v3 left.STL pcie v3 right.STL right angle.STL side 2 test bench.STL
  24. Hey, I've just finished the first prototype for my 3d printable razer cupholder (watch video below if you don't know what it is) I plan on making the finished models free on thingiverse, so people can make their own. Just bear in mind that this prototype is crappy, as I changed ideas several times So far, I need to fix: Support so button plate doesn't flex Slot to hold LEDs in place Wire organization Alternate place to put screws to attach the 2 parts (Thinking of screwing through the transluscent into the angled part) Replacing generic LEDs with neopixels, and fitting an arduino in there somehow General thoughts/ideas?
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