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Showing results for tags 'wiring'.
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So, real talk here. I've build a computer in a BeQuiet! Silent Base 601, the version that does not have a window. I bought it for silence, not beauty. Aside from the annoying SSD mount and the fact they didn't include PWM fans, it's been fairly easy to build in, and the quality isn't bad... So when I went to install the PSU (SeaSonic Focus Gold 650FX) and the necessary cables, I found that regardless of how I routed them, very few of my required cables would actually connect with nice cable management in the ample space behind the motherboard...but everything, case fans included...will fit just fine if I go straight up through the unnecessary PSU shroud ('cause again, no window). Everything connects. Everything works. Airflow and temperatures are ok. I've tied back what I can; nothing will block heat dissipation or get caught in fan blades. So why does it hurt knowing that the cabling isn't clean? I could spend $30 with CableMod to get a basic extension kit and it'd be nice...but does it matter in this case? It's not even for me. The people that asked me to build it for them have told me they don't care.
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I changed a few of my phone jacks (which are cat5e) to RJ45 but they don't work. All the phone lines in my house are all wired as one so there is one central point.
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I am looking into getting a 12" or 10" sub woofer to put on my Logitech Z523's satellite speakers. I do not know how to hook them up. Is it even possible to hook a sub woofer up to them or would there be a problem with different impedance or too many watts to the satellite speakers? If it is possible, how would I hook them up?
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Hi friends, I found myself with an extra Polk audio wireless subwoofer for my Polk audio 6500BT sound bar. I’d love to be able to use it as part of a wired stereo system in the future. I’ve attached all the pictures of the board I pulled out of the enclosure in the hopes that someone will easily be able to tell me where the Bluetooth adapter is and where I can solder on an RCA connector to have audio provided by a wired device. My dad has worked on a built electronics for years, just not audio ones. So I’m confident in his ability to remove the component (if necessary) and solder in the new connectors, I just need to tell him what needs to go, and where to make the new connection. Would love some help and direction. In the pictures I’ve included the barcode of the sub with model number info. Let me know if I’ve missed providing any key information. Happy to do what I can to help you help me Thanks in advance Chris
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This home does not have Ethernet ports. I've only found one phone jack, and I can't even get it to work. So I'm bringing this house into the 21st century, and I could use some advice. First, I would like to put actual wall outlets in and run the wiring through the walls. That's not a problem, as I have attic access over the entire house. I just need recommendations on how to do it. Should I buy some 50-ft cables and run one from an outlet in each room to one 6-port outlet by my router, and connect a switch from all utilized ports to said router? (Important note: my router does not have enough ports to skip the switch.) Or would it be okay to run the wires up to a switch that hangs out in the sweltering/freezing (depending on the time of year) attic and have just the 1-port outlet by my router? And lastly, what sort of cabling should I use? Cat5? 6? 7? My internet speed is ~500 Mbps on a good day, so I expect Cat5e will be more than sufficient. If there's a more efficient way of doing this, please sound off below. Thanks!
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Hey guys! I recently took up the task of wiring a ethernet connection from the router on the other end of the house to my room. I want to get 100 ft of Cat 6 cable and i'm facing a little bit of a dilemma on where to buy this from. Whenever I look up DIY videos of people wiring their house they tend to use wiring with no connectors on each side and then they attach the wiring to keystone jacks at the end. I found one cable on the lows website that is exactly that but some of the reviews say it easily kinks and I don't know whether or not I should get a thicker cord to protect against this when I am using the Polyethylene Staples to secure the cables. So I went to the other sites to try and find a thicker wire and they only have patch cables with the connectors on both ends. I don't really understand what a patch cable is and how it differs from the other cord, but I was thinking if I got that thicker patch cable I could run it down the wall and then use a female to female adapter for the ethernet outlet. However I read somewhere that this provides slower speeds than using a keystone jack. Is that true? The dude on the other forem said that keystones only accept solid core cables and that if it is a patch cable it is most likely stranded and slower. This one I found just so happens to be stranded. Is there a difference in speeds between stranded and solid core? If I have to, can I just cut the connector ends of the patch cables and then just use the keystone with the patch cable ends? This is my first time doing this so I kind of worried i'll bend or crimp a cord and render the cord useless. Here are the two websites I found below... If you guys find better websites please send them in the discussion. Thanks! https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-100-ft-23-AWG-4-Cat-6-Ethernet-Riser-Blue-Data-Cable-Pull-Box/50101614?cm_mmc=inf-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-hdy-_-evan-_-yt-_-dre-_-how-_-cut050319 https://www.cablewholesale.com/cgi-bin/searchppc.cgi?text=cat6+100ft&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4ef7-dSD6wIVBY-GCh3HVwUhEAAYASAAEgJn9PD_BwE
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I'm renovating my spare bedroom into an office type deal. I'm building a new computer for that aswell and i'd love to be able to use it on my 4k tv, for gaming or other stuff. Only problem is my tv is about 10m away from the office (bout 15m with outside wiring that i'm gonna do). So what is the easiest way to get HDMI and USB over there? I'm already planning on wiring an ethernet cable from my router (located near my TV) to the office, and i read that HDMI can be run over ethernet as well so that's 2 ethernet cables. But is USB effective over that or is there a better way? I need USB to connect mouse and keyboard ofc. Any input is appreciated
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Does anyone know the best tool out there for finding a wire's gauge? Thanks for your help.
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We go through the steps of taming one of the worst cabling messes like a PRO, custom-length cables and all. Sponsored by Cablemod. Use code "BYECOLTON" and get 10% off CableMod's Configurator at http://geni.us/JQIc - valid until August 8th. Buy CableMod cables on Amazon at http://geni.us/XLXy2l Buy CableMod cables on Newegg at http://geni.us/8hp5
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I just need help understanding the wiring of this prebuilt computer so I can replace my fans. So the fan I want to replace has one big black wire that splits into a black and 2 red wires, then those go into this huge confusing pin eater thing that makes a ton bunch of other wires. Finally, it goes into the motherboard along with a million other wires. Help!
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I know its a car emblem and design for cars, but the wiring that displays the LED is so simple. simply black and red just like a speaker at home. in case you might be confused here's what I'm talking about >>>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/192253550944. How can i connect this wiring to my PSU? is it possible? -
Ok guys only new to all this networking stuff so I need some help and advice. I've added a pic of what I would like to finally achieve one day but trying to figure out how to wire it all up question: how do I wire the switches? I gather from the modem I plug into a port on the first switch but what about the second switch ? do I daisy chain the switches together using 1 port on each switch linking them or do I run a separate cable from port 2 of modem to switch 2 etc. (what if I had 5 switches )
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Hello, I am currently building a PC and am having some trouble on where to plug everything in for my MasterLiquid ML240L. I am using an Asus ROG Maximus X Hero motherboard. I plugged the radiator fans into the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT headers. I am pretty sure this is right but just want to make sure. My main question is for the RGB on the cooler (I know its kind of silly but stay with me xD). The cooler has 3 RGB cables (2 for the fans and 1 for the pump). I want to use AURA sync on the cooler and don't know where to plug all of the rgb cables into. The cooler came with a Y Splitter but I dont know if I should put 3 RGB things on one header. I am really just wondering how I can connect this cooler to work with AURA sync, I know its possible because it says it is on the box. PS: The cooler came with a weird RGB controller but I am not using that because I am not sure if it works with AURA. Thanks -Mitch
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Anybody know how these 24 to 8 pins are wired? From the pic it seems as though there's 3 yellow wires coming from the 24 pin (8 in total) and 2 yellow going to the 8 pin (7 in total, only 7 pins are used). I know the difference in the purple wires is that the 24 pin purple is 5v standby and the 8 pin dell purple is 12v standby. The last adapter i had just had a single pin for a molex connector for 12v standby instead of this version. Is there a magical way to convert 5v to 12v i havent heard about? I tried tapping into a normal power supply but its not working for me.
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I have a mining rig running in a Rosewill 4U case with 7x GTX 970's (room for 8 cards total), I have an 850w PSU, and a 1000w PSU. I am using an Add2PSU relay to turn the 1000w PSU on. I am powering all of the PCIe risers with the 1000w, and I split up PCIe power between the two PSU's. I built this rig a few months back with 3 GTX 970's, and 1 PSU, and I recently added the rest. I spent 32 hours straight fighting with drivers trying to get the machine to work. I got fed up, bought an SSD, and reinstalled Windows. I got all 6 cards working in nicehash, and all was good. I went to put the lid back on the case and I immediately could smell something cooking. I looked inside the case, and I could see one of my GPU's working on starting on fire. I shut the PSU off, and the second I did, it went out. Obviously something is being shorted when I try to put the lid on. But I cannot find a cause. I have inspected all the wiring that can come in contact with the lid or case, and I see no problems with any insulation. I cant find any wires being pinched, or anything. At this point, I just need advice on where to go from here. Currently I have a $2000 fire hazard...
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I am trying to replicate what is logged in this blog, replacing the switch on the lower assembled part of the vacuum. The switch connects on both ends to a 22awg,105Celsisus,600v, red wire. I'm concerned with possible issues that may arise from theses wires, such as overheating, shorting, or causing an electrical fire. The broken switch had both ends heat shrink tubed, but could I wrap electrical tape around both ends instead? Or just go ahead and shrink tube wrap them?
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Hey, I just need to know what to look for when buying a cable, specially a long etherner cable. Thank you in advanced.
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Hello guys, i'm trying to connect via the console port to reset a Cisco 2960 switch that i recently bought. I also bought a couple of adapters to make it work and it is connected in the sequence : Console port -> ethernet cable -> Startech RJ45 to DB9 Modular Adapter -> Startech DB9 Serial to USB Adapter -> Laptop Since the RJ45 TO DB9 Adapter is modular, I have to manually wire the pins to the right spots. I found these pinouts to help me : https://sgcdn.startech.com/005329/media/sets/GC98FF_Manual/GC98FF.pdf http://www.cisco.com/c/en/us/td/docs/wireless/access_point/1240/installation/guide/1240hig5/124h_e.pdf https://allpinouts.org/index.php/Cisco_Console_RJ45_to_DB9_Pin It looks like this : (Sorry for the subpar pictures) http://imgur.com/a/wrtNn Then, in Putty, this is what I see : http://imgur.com/4QGaiWc It loops like that and it seems to be slightly different everytime. i've tried to reboot the switch and it does reboot normally until you get to the "Press RETURN to get started" where it starts to loop again if i press something. I've also tried reversing the black and yellow wires but it only replaces the characters in the loop with non-alphabetical characters. On the tek-tips forum the user "wires" says that he uses the following pinout for cisco console cables : Again, it did not work. I don't really know what to try next..
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Hello, I'm close to finishing a store ready product but it does need a power button (connected to a micro-atx board). I was looking for power switches but every store had different names, codes and labels for their products. And when I asked them what they mean with the written specs they didn't know it either. So whats the difference between all the switches? Like 4, 5 and 6 pins and what kind of connection to the mobo they need, the LED in the switch itself (how do I know it stays on or off when the pc is off but still has power). And how do I recognize a momentory switch against... uhm... a not momentory switch. And how do I recognive the postive and negative pole. And finally, I think I saw somewhere a "3-pin H.D.D. LED" mobo connection, so when its a 5-pin switch, does that mean one of them is ground? And if you have some time left: I'm looking for a 'normal blue' or a white colored (form of a circle) momentory switch. I don't think I want it be HDD connected because of the annoying flickering; but it does need to be off when to PC is off. Thank you for your time and effort! It's really appreciated!
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So soon(when the rx 470 is released) I will be building my first gaming PC transitioning from gaming on my laptop. I have pretty much chosen all the components and came up with, to me, an amazing idea, to build the computer in one of my spaces on my shelf(image). The size of a square is approximately the size of a mini tower(the cube ones) and it would look pretty dope(dont mean to use a case but use the space on the shelf and cover it off as a case). I was planning to use a USB hub and a 3.5 mm extension cable to wire everything from it to my desk. I was planning to use some plexiglass or acrylic glass to cover it off and cut some holes in with a CNC for the airflow. Is this a good idea and would there be any issues with it.(other than some lag from the mouse and keyboard plus some audio quality drop since it wouldn't really be noticeable)
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This is my frist build I have done. I am not quite sure if my cords are wired right. Espically as I am a newbie. I have included pictures and formatted a PC Partpicker list. Any help is thanked and replies are geatly valued **Describing my problem** Last night everything was great and the fans turned on. Then this morning I decided to do some cord management since ya, I thought air fow would be better. When redoing all the cords it had stopped turning on the fans, while my motherboard's on led was still responding. I am not sure whats wrong. **List anything you've done in attempt to diagnose or fix the problem.** Repluging all the PSU cords. Not much else. **Post relevant photos of build/parts here.** [Rig Pics](http://m.imgur.com/a/kiRCl) [PCPartPicker part list](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/d9DGsY) / [Price breakdown by merchant](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/d9DGsY/by_merchant/) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646i54690k) | $0.00 **CPU Cooler** | [Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-rr212e20pkr2) | $0.00 **Motherboard** | [Asus Sabertooth Z87 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-motherboard-sabertoothz87) |- **Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-memory-cmz16gx3m2a1866c9) | $81.99 @ Newegg **Storage** | [OCZ Vector 180 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/ocz-internal-hard-drive-vtr18025sat3480g) | $169.99 @ Amazon **Case** | [Raidmax Vampire ATX Full Tower Case](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/raidmax-case-atx001wbti) |- **Power Supply** | [Thermaltake SMART 750W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/thermaltake-power-supply-sp750pcbus) | $49.99 @ Newegg | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | Total (before mail-in rebates) | $321.97 | Mail-in rebates | -$20.00 | **Total** | **$301.97** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](http://pcpartpicker.com) 2016-03-28 13:52 EDT-0400 | *EDIT* I have purchased every part except my Vid Card, since my dads tight on money
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This instructable really interested me, Frameless Laser Harp - 4 , but i've never worked with steppers before. the stepper i got has 4 wires, but the stepper in the instructable has 6. on page 2 there is a wiring guide, but that wasn't very helpful to me, i didn't really understand what i'm supposed to do with the wires. This is the stepper i have, https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10551?gclid=Cj0KEQiApruyBRCFqoDu1pbk9rkBEiQAF8EFdVmEBorGt6koPmFkaibEpRmZ94Z6r8BWhmTqAL… . Any ideas? -
Sans the long explanation, I'll likely have access to several unwanted, defunct and/or partially stripped/broken laptops (hp Elitebook 2170p) and my plan for the summer is to remove and attach several screens into a huge monitor. Think iMax but terrible. To anyone with any hardware knowledge, is this a viable idea, is this a stupid concept, and what would I have to do to get them all attached? If somehow this is a bad thread, don't hate me I'm new.
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Hi guys, is it better to Connect my x61 to the cable provided with the AIO, or CPU Fan header and use a splitter ? Thanks in advanse
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Hi! Me and my dad have been trying to establish a connection between our router and another router or a pc through our walls, we are using RJ45 jacks and cat5e cables if you are wondering. We are using fiber, so we have a "mediabox" as it is called on swedish.. and we want to connect it like this: Mediabox -> router 1 Router 1 -> wall jack 1 (upstairs) wall jack 1 -> wall jack 2 (downstairs) wall jack 2 -> router 2 router 2 -> pc's That's roughly how we want it to be connected, we have been testing to switch in different ways between the wall jacks, but if anyone could tell us how it should be connected it would be great. And it isn't over 100 meters or anything, but I'm not sure if it could be that it's too much resistance between wall jack 1 and wall jack 2, and it's that point it wont work. and the cabels in the walls souldn't be damaged because we got connections when we are checking with a voltage meter..? (Dont know what they are called..) but it would be great to get some help with this, so say like if the cables are changeing if like 1 and 3 switch places or anything. Thanks in advance.
