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After a new GPU install my system persistently crashes without any fail. It crashes anytime I try to boot the system or load a game. The only fix so far has been to reinstall Windows completely and even then it only lasts for a few weeks before it starts experiencing the same symptoms. Yet again, I've tried to use DDU to remove the old drivers and there are no old GPU drivers left in the system at all. I cannot seem to find the error and windows just wants to keep crashing no matter how hard or what I use to fix the issue. I am completely lost. Command prompts aren't working. I need solutions before I have to completely replace my entire system

So I have been experiencing a weird freezing issue lately. It started from some where in April. When I play games and sometimes when I am browsing my computer screen just freezes my RAM rgb and my AIO cooler display is all functioning but nothing works, I just can't close anything I can't open anything so I gotta force shut down my PC. So just now I saw this in my news suggestions on my phone and I think it has something to do with a windows 10 update. So can someone give me any suggestions to fix this issue cause its getting on my nerves. Its really annoying cause this happened in the middle of an important assignment I was working on too and it scared the crap outta me cause I thought I lost my work but thankfully nothing happened cause it was saved and yesterday I played one death match on valorant and right after the match ended and the results screen popped up it froze. I could really really really use some help

I've seen whispered mentions of this here and there, and my gaming machine at the moment is firmly rooted in Win 10 (last time I tried to update to 11, it just went into a complete boot-loop saga due to not wanting to play nice with my 3070 for some reason and ended up wiping and overwriting a decade's worth of memories on a secondary hard drive with Windows Update files. I've still no idea how it happened!). The current Windows 10 implementation of HDR, to put it kindly, absolutely stinks. I've been told the Win 11 auto-HDR functionality is better, and that it is possible to get in some builds of Windows 10, but my Google-fu is letting me down bad as I can't seem to find a definitive way to do so. Any help much appreciated!

So I'm trying to install Windows 10 (LTSC) on a brand new Flow Z13 but the installer doesn't see the internal SSD. I assume there's some driver that needs to be added however I don't see any downloads for drivers related to storage on Asus's site.... Is there some way to pull the driver from the included windows 11 install? Or is there some asus driver I can't find that's used for their machines, I remember running into a similar problem with an HP machine but I did end up finding the drive on HP's site.

This post continues from here. I crashed again today. it was suggested I should go into event viewer, after my crash. I did. Haven't exactly been using event viewer before and I was wondering how I can read the event viewer event. I found it, its a "critical" error. Event ID 41, which just means it crashed the pc. I have attached my event viewer crash. I hope somebody can tell me which component is causing my pc to crash, or give me some useful information for troubleshooting. Since my last post, I have cleared CMOS. Just removed 1 of my 2 ram sticks and gonna wait for it to crash again and switch to the next stick. I will be replying in the comments, however it might be a while, because I am gonna go cook dinner. Thank you, Magnus. Crash.txt

Basic info my computer is idling higher than it normally use to. It currently is idling at a minimum of 4%CPU usage and maximum 11% (usually on hits this for a second maybe 2). Once I know where to post the question I will give you more info.

I cannot put my computer to sleep or hibernate after updating Windows 10 to the 22H2 version. After I select hibernate, the power light, fan, and other components, like the mouse are still on.

Hello! I was wandering if anyone was any experience with windows 11 on the laptop side of things. I'm thinking about updating to win11 but from what I read online it has a big impact on battery life, in a bad way. I am using my laptop mostly plugged in and only occasionally on battery power for uni courses, etc, so I kind of need it. Does anyone have clue how laptops behave?

Windows 10 Task Manager takes about 5 seconds to close. After clicking the x it goes white and just shows Task manager and File Options and View Tabs and all white in the box below them. Its not debilitating, as my system still runs good, its just an annoying very minor glitch/bug i'd like to fix if possible. I did chkdsk and sfcscannow and nothing of note. I'd show a pic of what i mean but everytime i print screen and put it on paint it doesnt show the task manager glitching for some reason. Windows Stat Stuff: Edition Windows 10 Enterprise Version 22H2 Installed on ‎12/‎25/‎2020 OS build 19045.2604 Experience Windows Feature Experience Pack 120.2212.4190.0

I have been experiencing random crashes for a few months now. Its super annoying to troubleshoot, because it can take multiple days between each crash. The whole pc shuts down and reboots itself again. It can happen when doing literally anything. in a game, just surfing the web, anything. Issues has occurred on windows 10 and 11. I tried a new PSU but that didn't fix it. I have tried running these stress tests: OCCT, MemTest64, CrystalDiskMark, Cinebench, among a few 3Dmark tests. None of these tests made a crash happen. The crashes feel really random. The crashes started happening, after updating my BIOS. I have since then tried every version of BIOS, in which it has crashed in each. I used the Asus AI Suite to update and downgrade BIOS. I am now on the latest version. Its just super annoying that it takes so long between crashes. Makes it annoying to troubleshoot. My next troubleshooting steps are: CMOS clear, remove 1 ram stick. I would like other suggestions, and hopefully we can figure this out together. Specs: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/MagnusLund/saved/#view=YfD3RB Thank you for your input. Much appreciated Kind regards, Magnus

i built my pc a year ago now and earlier this month i finally got around to upgrading my RAM- i went from 16gb to 32gb. i did this partially to prevent frame dropping/stuttering in a particular game. as far as i've noticed, performance has generally improved- except in that particular game, the stuttering has actually gotten worse, to the point where it's rarely even playable (it's a rhythm game so timing is a huge deal). after getting a bit of help from r/pcmasterrace, i have enabled xmp (which only helped a small bit) and i have utilized MSI afterburner to get a better idea of what the issue is- and i found that the frametime stuttering seems to coincide with strange behavior in the graphs for most of my cpu clocks, as shown in the attached images. the first screenshot is what the activity normally looks like, and the second screenshot shows what happens when the frames stutter. the region that looks sorta like a chunk has been cut out is the same region where the frametime stuttered. i imagine this is an issue of RAM timing or something like that, but i really don't know what else to make of this. anyone know what to do? i'd really like to play my game without worrying about stuttering again. old ram: team t-force vulcan z 16gb, DDR4 3200, CL 19, model TLZGD416G3200HC16CDC01 new ram: kingston fury beast 32gb, DDR4 3200, CL 16, model RFBB14-32C16K2/32 P.S.- this pc is also my first build so i'm not an expert, but i know a decent amount.

Hi, I've been running into some issues with SteamVR after installing my new Ryzen 9 5900X processor. My system will remain normal while in SteamVR playing any games like SkyrimVR, Blade and Sorcery, or Half-Life Alyx, but after about 40-60 minutes, my system will crash with the BSOD code Whea Uncorrectable_Error. At first, my system was on Windows 11, so I downgraded to Windows 10, which didn't fix the issue. I have also tried wiping my entire drive and installing Windows 10 again, but this didn't make a difference. I have used the CMOS button on my Gigabyte X570S Aorus Master board to reset my bios because it previously had to be underclocked due to my cooler not being strong enough to cool my processor down at the time (during which my system never blue screened). I bought this CPU and Board as a replacement without much thought and I had Best Buy put it together at Geek Squad after my previous board had failed. My computer, when doing anything else that is not related to Steam VR, is perfectly fine and will only crash once I get into VR with Whea Uncorrectable_Error. I have ensured that I have the latest Bios, which has made no difference. I have run stress tests on my processor with Prime95, which had detected no issues in any of the 12 cores and there don't seem to be any temperature problems either. I have also looked online and found stories of people having problems with AMD software while in Steam VR, but even after downgrading to 2021 drivers, my system will still crash. I do not know what they did exactly to my CPU, but I did notice that 6 of my 12 cores were missing while I was in Ryzen Master. Assuming that was the problem, I started MS Config and unchecked the "Number of Processors" box, which made the other 12 appear. This made no difference. I'm wondering if there's something that I'm missing when it comes to the 5900x and SteamVR as I've done everything I can to make sure that it is running at stock settings, but it seems that this has led to my system crashing whenever I get into VR. When I replaced my cooler, reset my BIOS, downloaded the latest X570 chipsets, and ensured that each core is running, this is when it started crashing in VR. Specs: CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12A GPU: AMD RX 6700XT (Reference) PSU: EVGA 600 BR (600 Watts) Storage Device: Crucial - P3 1TB Internal SSD PCIe Gen 3 x4 NVMe RAM: 32 GB G.Skill Ripjaws V Series (Each stick is 8 GB) Board: Gigabyte X570S Aorus Master (Current BIOS is F5a, most recent) VR: Valve Index (I have my Refresh Rate set to 120 Hz) SteamVR Version: 1.24.7 Any help will be greatly appreciated, thank you for your time. Edit: I have managed to narrow down when exactly my system began to blue screen while in VR, and it was after I installed the Noctua NH-U12A cooler. I do not understand why this would have any affect on VR specifically as my temperatures in VR are perfectly fine (Around 60-65 degrees C)

I have a windows 10 pc just recently i realised that even after running a system disk cleanup it still show that Temporary Internet Files are using 2.72 GB of disk space on C Drive. But when i click on View Files the folder is empty. I manually cleaned up all the temp folders yet that space is not freed up. How do i resolve this issue, Since this issue started my windows boot take over 2 mins to show the login screen. I have windows 10 pro version 22H2 19045.2728

So here's the state of things: I have 2 laptops for 2 of my colleagues at work. Both ACER (it will maybe become relevant later) but on different platforms - one is 11th gen Intel cpu with nvidia dedicated graphics and one is AMD (Ryzen 2nd gen) with dedicated AMD graphics. Starting with the first one (the AMD variant) as it was stepped down from a executive to my colleague I installed a fresh copy of windows 10, updated the bios, updated drivers, installed the MS Office suite, installed syncthing, and a couple of other programs that we need for work, nothing special, nothing with virtual devices, so the usual stuff. All went smooth sailing on my part, and as I handed the device to the receiving end it began to randomly enter a sort of standby state: the screen turns off, the keyboard lights turn off and the keys themself become unresponsive for a couple of seconds (it varies from a short flick to a couple of seconds), sound goes off also, and when it "resumes" usually windows asks for re-login. The executive that had the notebook also reported this behaviour but to a less frequency. I tried: event logger (nothing stands out), another outlet (we only use the original charger) as the one that we use regularly serves a large number of devices and PC's, used it on battery power, used it with a external monitor to rule out the ribbon cable to the in-built display, reinstalled the display drivers, reinstalled the chipset drivers, unplugged all the peripherals and used a bluetooth mouse to rule out a possible broken circuit on the USB's. Temps are well bellow 60 degrees (C) usually sitting at 37-40-45. The device is not used for gaming or resource intensive processes. In the end we gave up, we called it a problem (gap in welds on the motherboard, or a semi-fried component) and we bought a new notebook (also a ACER at the request of the colleague). The Intel 11th gen: same thing, but this time on windows 11, and Intel guts. We tried: same things. I could also run a live version of linux or even install it for testing purposes but it's a "hot" device, my colleague works on it regardless of the problem every day and needs it actively. I'm going crazy here. I'm pretty damn sure it's a software problem because across two platforms and different OS's the only thing that remain constant are the applications that we installed after the OS and drivers. Please advise. This could possibly be the first time I got so mad I just stopped searching for the problem and blame it on ACER's device managent software or a clash between the firmware and a particular app in the system. 267905398_ACER11thgen.evtx Acer Intel 11th gen.txt

Hello and thank you to the person taking the time to read this post. I've run into some issues with the NVIDIA control panel and haven't been able to find any working solutions in the posts I've come across up until now. I've already done a lot of troubleshooting over the last couple of days. This is the situation along with my findings during the process of trying to identify and fix the problem: I've connected my old samsung tv to my pc into a motherboard slot via a vga cable. This all works fine: it completely functions as a third monitor without any issues in functionality. I also wanted to use my tv speakers, though, so I tried connecting the tv via hdmi to my video card instead. This ended up in a bunch of weird resolution scaling issues, in which the output was overscanned and delayed (it's an old samsung tv). So I took out the hdmi and went back to the vga cable. (With this the resolution and timing all worked perfectly again) However, when opening my NVIDIA control panel from the tray icon, I noticed that the control panel option was missing, leaving only the geforce experience tab (see attached picture for what was there before this scenario) When clicking on the icon, the control panel wouldn't open either (geforce experience opens without issue though). From here on I've tried some workarounds and fixes, which I'll compile below: -I've reinstalled my nvidia drivers -repaired all my vcredist packages -restarted all nvidia applications in task manager -restarted NVIDIA Display Container LS. in services. After doing these things I could open it again. However, when I turn off my computer and turn it on again once or twice, I can't open it anymore. The tab above Geforce Experience (as shown in the attached picture: https://ibb.co/PgXCtmw) hasn't come back either after these fixes. After this I've tried unplugging my vga cable from the motherboard. After doing this, I could open it again on startup, without having to restart the NVIDIA Display Container in services. This stopped working too after about three times. While trying to unplug and replug my tv between restarts, my Background Engine (a program on steam for displaying moving backgrounds) is unable to recognise my tv monitor. I can still do everything else on the monitor while this happens though, but I still feel like this is connected to the issue. What still stands out as weird to me, though, is the fact that this monitor is attached to my motherboard, not my NVIDIA graphics card. At this point in time it's about a 15% chance that my NVIDIA control panel is able to open at all when I start up my computer. I can always fix this by restarting NVIDIA Display Container in services, but when I restart my computer I'm back to square one. My monitor also has issues with background engine about 25% of the time, but this fixes itself upon a restart. Thanks for reading this detailed list of my problem, if you've made it this far. Any insight is greatly appreciated. I'll be able to try out tips when I come home from uni later today. Thanks in advance!

I have 2 monitors for my PC, I use my TV as my main display, and have a secondary monitor for my second display, using windows Extend These Displays option Sleep mode, screen saver, Turn Off Display - all disabled When I use Windows + P to project on just my TV, the second monitor turns off because there's no signal and that's great, but then if I power off my TV for bedtime when I want to sleep, after a minute or so the PC will transfer the display to the second monitor which will then turn on. How can I stop this from happening? When I turn off my TV I don't want the secondary monitor to then turn on and display anything, want that to stay off as well. Could it be a TV setting causing it? (I never had this issue since having my 2 displays, about 3 years now with multiple windows clean installs throughout that period, but this time a few days ago I just did a fresh install, and I have all the same settings I believe, or am I missing something obvious?)

I'm trying to turn off tap to click on my laptop, but every setting that should be there just... isn't. The standard way is to find a tab under Mouse Properties that says "Clickpad Settings" or something like that, but I just don't have any tab for that. Pictures attached to show what I mean. I've tried deleting the mouse from device manager, I've tried updating to the newest driver, I've tried rolling back the driver to an older version, I've tried installing the newest driver from MSI's website that was neither of the previously mention versions, I've even tried to manually run the Synaptics Pointing Enhance Service after giving myself the access to the system folder to run it. It'll run and show up in the task manager, but there aren't any other changes. No program windows open, there's nothing in the system tray, no new tabs appear in the Mouse Properties menu, etc. I've previously reinstalled windows on this laptop, and it had the same problem in the stock install. Does anyone know what could be the problem and how to solve it? This is driving me insane, as tap to click is something I absolutely loathe and would destroy forever if possible.The fact that it's both a default behavior and impossible to opt out of via standard windows settings is absolutely mindbogglingly asinine. System details: Laptop: MSI GL63 8RC OS: Windows 10 Home (Version 10.0.19044 Build 19044) Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-8750H CPU BIOS Version/Date: American Megatrends Inc. E16P6IMS.101, 2/28/2018 SMBIOS: Version 3.1 RAM: 16 GB Touchpad: Synaptics SMBus Touchpad (as reported by Device Manager)

Hello, As title says, I have a problem with this PC since yesterday. Recently, I got a new CPU and Motherboard and now this NVME SSD was working until eventually this happened. It booted once off of this NVME after many BSOD, so I thought it was a driver issue and downloaded all the drivers for my upgraded hardware. Then, the PC reset and when I shut it down and turned it on, I kept getting a BSOD error saying “Kernel Data Inpage Error” and I tried fixing it. Now it doesn’t even BSOD, it goes straight to windows recovery with very limited options and a weird X: drive. I’m using Hiren’s Boot CD to try and recover the data before I clean install windows but I can’t find it, any help? Thank you in advance

I just finished building my new computer and upon downloading windows to a usb and trying to to boot I get greeted with a windows logo and a black screen. No loading circle nothing. The VGA and boot light is on but I can enter the bios perfectly fine. I am using my gpu as my graphics when trying to do this.

I just got new ram at 3600 mhz gskill trident z royal cas17 when all 4 sticks are in and xmp to 3600 mhz voltage set to xmp profile of 1.35v my bios won't take it, restarts 3 time and at time I have to set voltage to 1.368 it will take, but when it finally takes it at 1.35v or even 1.368 and at the proper speed of 3600mhz my games crash and or my pc black screens and then restarts the temp of the ram is between 42c and 47c, When I only have 2 sticks in the ram will set at 1.35v first try and never goes above 37c in temp, games never crash and I have no issues Set up is Asrock B550 Taichi Ryzen 7 3800x Trident z royal 8gb x4 at 3600mhz cas17 (original ram was 3000mhz vengeance pro 8gbx4) 2080 fe 2 500gb m.2 samsung 980 evo Rm850x power supply

Hi all, so I just went to install W10 via USB on a just built PC and its been on the "just a moment" screen for about a few hours now, is that normal? I don't remember it being this slow when I did a fresh install on my laptop. Is it due to my USB stick just being slow? The rest of the system specs is in my signature, I installed it on the M.2. Any help is appreciated.

Hi there. I'm looking for backup software for my Windows 10 machine. Needs: Exclusion of folders and files Can backup to NAS (via SMB/NFS or WebDAV Nice to have: Cheap Encryption There is data across my SSD and HDD I want to back up. I've already used Duplicati 2, it's very customisable, but doesn't handle file access issues well and doesn't get along with Bitdefender. I've also tried File History, but it doesn't seem to let me customise what gets backed up. I'm looking at using Backup and Restore (Windows 7), It seems to be pretty good (exclusions, network share), but I'm not sure if there's any reason not to. On that subject, does anybody know if I can combine the ZIP files it creates on another Machine (EG LInux) if needed? It makes zip files with different folders and files in each Thanks!

I've been trying my hardest this entire week to get this Samsung 870 EVO 1 TB working. I ordered directly from the Samsung website and it came early. It's brand new, hasn't been used. It sat in the packaging for a little while on my shelf until I was able to get to tinkering with my PC given it was all I had to work on college work, and I wanted to wait until I had a proper laptop to start working on it in case things went wrong, which in this case, they did. I decided I was tired of my current installation of Windows 10, as I had had the drive for years with it on there and the installation was corrupted to all heck with no hope of a fix. At first, I couldn't get the system to boot up with the SSD, but I got that working. (My SATA power connector only has three ports. One of them I have to use for my CPU pump because I don't have a fan and/or a RGB controller hub. I had foolishly plugged the CPU pump power cable into the SSD thinking it only powered the lights and the system would shut off after a little while after being on, so I just unplugged my storage drive and replaced it with that for the time being since I need the data from my boot drive.) Now it's booting up with the SSD in, but nothing I do, no matter how far I get, enables me to be able to install Windows 10 into this thing. I originally was trying to do it via my old boot drive, but since my college class had us do ipconfig /renew in CMD as part of our CMD training, it somehow corrupted my ethernet capabilities and my ethernet capabilities died in the middle of me shopping... For good. This is an issue because for some reason, Windows Media creation tool requires an internet connection. (I was never able to get it fixed no matter what I did. I reset everything, I reinstalled drivers, nothing worked. Up until that point, Windows update wouldn't finish either, so I had to disable it for so long given Microsoft doesn't allow you to shut down or restart without updating. This went on for years until finally I decided just to install the SSD and a new copy of Windows 10, and I received even more issues, hence where I'm at now.) I just went out and bought a 32 GB flash drive to put the Windows 10 installation media onto. At first, I got it to load properly. Tried installing Windows 10 to the boot drive I wanted it to be in, but it gave me an error that said Windows couldn't be installed to that drive. Looked up how to fix that error, and I got it fixed. Turns out the drive had to be cleared. That's fine. I was happy, foolishly thinking that the system would finally work. Tried again, and of course, I got another error. This time, it's error code 0x80300024. I'm so tired at this point, but I'm still pressing on. This is the last custom part in this build of mine to replace the only remaining original part from the old rebuilt I had built a custom PC out of. Every part had been replaced with a better alternative except this, and here I was just about to basically complete the build, except no. One of the potential fixes said "Make sure the drive is first in the boot order." So I did that. I even unplugged my old boot drive as was recommended to me. I booted it back up, and now the flash drive, despite being plugged in, is no longer visible in the boot order. The name for my old boot drive is still in the order despite being unplugged, and so is my SSD, but no flash drive. Great, just great. I have a game project I'm working on and I'm currently out and about so I can't take any pictures of what's wrong yet. I will when I can.

I downloaded a software named 'HD uninstaller native.exe' for completely uninstalling 'bluestacks emulator' and now the problem is when I open this software nothing happened just a windows poped up and showed "BlueStacks uninstalled successfully".. but from then some of my start menu apps including File explorer, This pc, cmd etc. app doesn't open....the app icons are there bt not opening only from Start menu . I downloaded this software from a youtube video ( https://youtu.be/92AMnYFVE-M )

Hi all, Looking for some help, having an issue whereby Windows 10 is dropping audio but only when playing DD+ content with full passthrough (True-HD, MA DTS:X & Atmos etc all fine). This results in the decoder on the receiver turning off, before restarting for about 0.5s and is happening every 10s or so. Has anybody experienced any similar issues only relating to one particular audio type? This is from all sources, Plex, Netflix (windows app), MPC etc. Setup is as follows: Windows 10 20H2 (Have tried all versions and builds from 1909 up) running from m.2 nvme Intel i9-7960X (With and without O/C) Asus Mark1 X299 MB (tried XMP profile & BIOS defaults) 64gb ram ddr4 corsair vengence Nvidia 2080ti (With and without O/C) Sound out via HDMI to LG C9 OLED with EARC back to reciever, this is not the issue, have tested direct to receiver. Audio issue is PC related as TV apps and Google TV Chromecast all play DD+ no issues as does friends PC. All drivers updated and also freshly installed, new windows build tried, swapped out graphics card for 2070 Super, changed HDMI lead, several different network connections tried and local files. Tried using a friends PC who's build is similar (different MB (still Asus TUF) & Processor (still Intel)) which works with no issues. Tried their m.2 with full build in my computer and this then had the issue. All drivers are the same build. In my mind this must therefore be hardware on the MB or processor side, but cannot find the cause or answer. Any suggestions welcomed. Thanks Jack