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I am struggling to get IPV6 connectivity on my desktop. I am currently using my laptop as "WiFi card", as it has great networking and my desktop has no WiFi card. This is temporary, hence why I cannot get a wired connection or pcie WiFi card (even that is an issue since my slots are all blocked by my graphics card). I have 150/150 mbps fibre line, my laptop is connected via 5GHz WiFi 6 a room or away from the router. The link speed is 500+ up and down, which is more than adequate. On my laptop, IPV6 internet access is available, my ISP supports it too. I am using the method of sharing my WiFi connection in control panel on my laptop, and connecting my desktop to my laptop with an ethernet cable. IPV4 works as expected on my desktop, and the pings have the same latency as on my laptop. However, IPV6 connectivity is the issue. Is this a issue with the method? I've tried to look everywhere on the internet, but no one seems to report a similar issue. Is there something I can do to make the "control panel" method work, or should I try 3rd party software? To be clear, there isn't an issue with my desktops lan drivers or IPV6 setup as I've connected directly many times with IPV6 connectivity each time. It's only when this WiFi sharing method is used. I am assuming it's something to do with IPV6 address allocation as it differs heavily to IPV4, but I'm not sure. IPV6 local addresses seem to be detected on my desktop, but connectivity to the internet through IPV6 is not permitted. Is there possibly an advanced setting that could be changed to allow IPV6 internet access? I am convinced this is an problem with WiFi sharing using this method in general, which is covered extensively online. I'll link some screenshots below. Help will be appreciated!

I live in an old house built in the 1960 in Stockholm, Sweden. The house doesn't have fibre internet installed and instead uses the old TV-cable (coax) in the ground for networking. The area is "K-märkt" (rough translation from Cambridge Dictionary: "to designate as a cultural heritage site that warrants special protection and preservation"). This means that we won't be able to install fiber/newer internet cables in the near future, and I'm stuck with paying $30 USD per month for 100 Mbit/s and using and old coax router. On the roof of the tower block right next to my house they recently installed brand new 5G antennas, which means I get about 600 Mbit/s over cellular when using my phone... We are 4 people in my household, each with their own phone, tablet and computer, no one is gaming but we stream a lot of 4K videos/movies.

My motherboard doesn't have a wifi or Bluetooth. I need wifi since I can't connect to ethernet without some breaking and tearing and need bluetooth for the wireless Samsung buds I got. I will be using the wireless earphones for gaming so less lag on bluetooth will be optimal. My understanding is that pcie> usb https://amzn.eu/d/6yhnj0y

Hey guys so I've recently switched my mobo out on my gaming pc and the drivers for this mobos internet just don't seem to work. I don't know whats going on but i am including some pictures to give everyone an idea of my situation. I have gone to device manager to try and update drivers for network controller with the yellow caution exclamation point but it reads that it wasn't able to find the drivers for that device, from my knowledge tho the Realtek Gaming 2.5GbE Family Controller is the network controller right?IMG_9742.HEIC I saw somebody on here had a similar problem with the intel version of the mobo and someone told then to extract the file from its zip using 7-zip so I did so and it went smooth with the Bluetooth driver but I got 2 errors when I tried to do it with the wifi driver IMG_9738.HEICIMG_9739.HEIC. Context to these claims is located in the pictures. IMG_9740.HEICIMG_9741.HEIC

Hello, Okay... I need answers! So a while back I had a problem with my pc where it just hangs on the bios screen. Now I reseated the gpu cpu and ram. Re - ordered my ram into A1 and B1 so on... and didn't see any progress. Until I took out my hdmi and wifi dongle to see if any of my ports were acting up. So I found the problem. To this day I can't replicate the issue. (Luckily and unluckily) So today I had the same issue just came out of nowhere. So I was curious if it was the stupid wifi dongle and ohh to my surprise it was. Now why... is now my question. So I checked drivers and everything. Found nothing everything was as it should be. So where do we go from here. Is it my motherboard, ports, it shorting out , short circuiting. This confuses me. One last thing, I've tried MULTIPLE drivers! Any help, greatly appreciated!

Hello, I bought a new pc a couple of months ago. When I first got the pc I received 2 Wi-Fi antennas that are screwed into the back of the PC at first I had 0 problems with this until one day my internet kept disconnecting anytime I would play any game online or story didn't matter. So I first figured that It was a internet provider or router problem so I called my provider and all was good had 0 problems on their end. At this time all devices worked fine on the internet with little to no issue it was just my pc. I was still receiving around 300 mb down and 10 up but anytime I would play a game such as CSGO or RDR2 I would first notice my ping go to over 5000 on discord and then I would lose connection to the internet. But the most confusing thing was that it works fine in browser and other low performance games such as ROBLOX. I then decided one day that It could maybe be my antennas which It was because I took them off and the internet worked ok but I still had some issues with slow downloads because I didn't have these on aswell as higher ping in certain games. I then decided to turn to amazon where I bought new wifi antennas for my pc then I used them and had the same exact problem where the speeds were good but as soon as I loaded into a game of RDR2 my wifi went out on pc. I then figured It could be a RDR2 issue or steam so I tried a couple other games with the same problems. I know this all doesn't make sense because I haven't found anything around the internet talking about my exact problem. Its almost as if the internet works fine until I do anything somewhat demanding on my PC. I know I could always do ethernet but I currently don't have the money to dish out on one and it worked fine before so I want to see if anyone knows what my problem is or how I can fix it would be very much appreciated.

I have a laptop that does not have an Ethernet input, but I have a stationary computer, can I connect the laptop to the computer via USB and thus have Internet access via a cable?

So my house has thick brick walls and an L shape. The fiber cable comes from the attic at one of the ends of the L shape home. There is a wifi 6 isp provided router. The previous solution was a mesh nodes next to the router and another mesh node at the other and of the L shape home where my TV is. The isp provided router wasn't set to wifi, only the 2 mesh nodes. This solution started dying and the network wasn't even there in the middle of the L shape. Now I'm thinking of buying a 3 pack mesh, but there might be a better solution for this. Can you help me find the best solution? I have 1gbit internet and the cable comes down at that end because my PC is there, so it has wired connection.

Hi there! I'm looking to buy a 3 piece mesh network. I found the Cudy M3000 with AX3000 Wifi6 speed, seems decent. The tplink deco x50 also seems decent but a 3 pack will cost significantly more. Is Cudy a good choice? I can't find people talking about their mesh solutions. Thanks in advance!

Budget: 20 Euros Country: Germany Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Games like Minecraft, Genshin Impact, indie steam games and Microsoft 365 Other details: I already bought all of my Pc parts, but I haven't built it since I am waiting for the last to arrive. I forgot to think about Wifi though, and now I don't have a main board with wifi connection (my main board is the msi B550-A PRO). I am thinking about either getting an usb wifi adapter or a wifi card, and I wanted to ask what do you think is the best for my buck, and what product should I get? I am already over my budget for the pc, so I don't want to spend too much

Browser, version and OS: windows 11 Steps to reproduce/what were you doing before it happened? Complete reboot and windows reinstall following a boot driver corruption What happened? Wifi does not exist even in the setting What did you expect to happen? Not that Any other relevant details: All the driver are fine and the cable connection work perfect

I have 2 RT-AX55 in aimesh, one as the main router and one as a node using 5ghz back haul. I get this extremely weird aimesh dropout where the node seemingly disconnects and I lose connection to the majority of the internet except I can still connected to my windows server pc on the main router from the node. The dropout lasts about 2-5 minutes and happen maybe 0-3 times a day, but the following connections still work from a computer connected to the mesh node with Ethernet: - Remote desktop connection to a windows server connected to the main router. - SMB network drive share to the same windows server. - Gradio hosted local webui. (except the font seems to not load and becomes a default serif font) As expected, every other internet usage that needs to reach the main router stops working, including wifi on the mesh node. I've tried factory rests and updating firmware, this has been an issues for maybe over half a year now since I got the pair of routers set up. I am considering upgrading both routers, but in the mean time, this bug is quite annoying. To add: I have near ideal connection through two windows at 15m and negligible neighbor 5ghz interference.

So, I bought a pc from eBay. Seller said it has built-in wifi on the motherboard. Great. So, I install windows and there is no wifi capabilities on the network settings; just "Ethernet unplugged". I've tried every method out there to fix this. Microsoft support said to wipe the computer, install windows again, and it should pop up....it hasn't. Bios says everything is good to go. Can anyone help? Thank you.

I have been struggling to get good wifi signal and speeds in my outbuilding where my office is. Currently the download speed in the main house is 60 download and in the outbuilding only like 10. When I try to play games Im lagging a lot as the latency is spiking up and down. I have tried to use a wifi extender to make a bridge between the two buildings but still no good and then I have now incorporated powerline adapters but still no success. Any ideas how to improve my wifi signal and speeds?

Hi all, I have recently put together a PC using the MSI Pro B650M-A Wifi as the motherboard, but I cannot seem to connect to 5ghz networks. The 2.4 ghz channels seem to work fine, but I would like to utilise the full capacity of my internet speeds. I have already tried a bunch of troubleshooting steps (all of what windows has put together, plus a few other things like disabling IPV6 and changing bandwith priorities. Its not a physical issue because my roommates PC, which sits basicially right next to mine works fine. Any suggestions?

So today my laptop for some reason stopped connecting to 5G WIFI that I was connected to, it just says "Can't connect to this network" after I enter the password. I've ran windows troubleshoot, reinstalled network adapter drivers 2 times with different versions, reset the network and tried on different WIFI's The laptop is Lenovo IdeaPad Slim 3 16ABR8, win 10pro (not the latest update I suppose), I bought it a week ago and barely used it

Hello, I have just built a PC and I chose a motherboard without wifi because I thought I would just use ethernet (and price, etc). My router is downstairs and gives there (wirelessly and wired) around 350-400 Mbps. When I tried running ethernet with a Devolo powerline adapter, I only got about 30Mbps upstairs. I figured it was just because I had lots of other things plugged in etc. idk I'm not a technician. So I tested my wifi speeds upstairs on my phone and on my Macbook and I got between 80 and 150 Mbps on both. So I thought it would be better if I bought a USB wifi adapter, and I ended up with a TP-link Archer T3U. I installed the drivers and connected the USB. After testing I still reach only 30Mbps if I'm lucky. Does anyone know what the problem could be (With my ethernet or wifi)? Some more details: - I run Windows 10 - My Windows 10 is up to date - I've set the USB to 5Ghz already.

Hey, I have an HP Victus 16 (4H2B4EA#ABU) which I can't seem to connect to any wireless network. I had given it for a warranty claim and now that it's back, it's original issue with the screen is resolved but I'm unable to use the wifi feature. I first tried reinstalling windows from scratch to rule out any driver problems. Then I tried running some BIOS tests which report that the wireless network module is not installed. I took that to mean the wifi card is not installed so I opened the laptop back to see if I could locate the wifi card and it is indeed there and has a cable going to it that's supposed to connect to it. Further, since I mentioned that I got the item back after a warranty claim, the QA passed list provided with the machine says the wireless connectivity was tested and worked just fine. My only guess at the moment is that the wifi card isn't working but if there is something I can try to narrow the problem down, ideally on the software side of the things, please do let me know. Thanks! EDIT 1: Bluetooth is also not available.

Hi all! So, I recently moved into a new house in Germany and in there there is no Ethernet network. This seems to be a common issue, since the WiFi guys came prepared and installed my router onto the coax cables for the TV/Multimedia signal instead. So now the problem is that the house has two floors and the router's signal only reaches the second floor, where it's installed. So here a small premise, I don't really know much about networking stuff and I'm learning it as I go, which is why I'm asking here before doing the thing. So, my thought was that it could be possible to install a second Access Point downstairs by simply getting a cheap, second hand router of the same model and set it up using a coax cable instead of an Ethernet cable. I've seen a couple of videos and it seemed that the only requirement is that the two routers are connected to each other, so it seemed reasonable that if you can plug one to the network via coax cable this would also work to allow communication between the two routers, once I turn off DHCP on one of them. Online, I had a hard time finding information regarding this specific configuration since everyone assumes that you have Ethernet cables installed in your house. I saw that you could buy these MoCA adapters to transform the coax signal into something that can go through Ethernet cables, which I could then easily connect to a router, but the price range on those varies so wildly (20€ to 100€) that I just got more confused on what the required functionality even is. And even then, if the adapter simply allows me to put an Ethernet cable in my MoCA ready router, then why would the coax cable not be enough already? So my question is, is what I'm trying to do even possible? Is having the same router model enough and can I just plug it in and configure it like a normal Access Point? Do I have to buy one of these adapters for it to work? And what kind of adapter? I'm just very confused by this different distribution method and I don't get how to deal with it. My router model: router with coax cable For more info on which adapters I'm talking about: expensive adapter (100€) cheap adapter (20€)

Hi all, I’m currently at university in the UK and my apartment has a rather restrictive Wi-Fi deal that allows Upto 5 MAC addresses for free. Last year I was in another accommodation and just used an old BT hub 5 to act as my own router and wanted to do that again this year (Also would like to not be restricted to 5 devices). Trouble is they don’t use ‘regular’ ip addresses that you’d usually see (192.168…). So when I go to setup the BT hub, switch the IP address of the hub and turn off DHCP it doesn’t work. Does anyone have any clue as to how I can fix this? I’m at a loss now and have tried everything I can. Thanks in advance

HI All, I am in the process of doing a mass home and home office network upgrade. I have been running the AmpliFi HD mesh system for a while but I am getting frustrated with some missing features in the router as well as the chunky boxes. I am planning of going with PFSense on a dedicated device, more than likely a protectli box, for all my router/firefall needs, this will feed a small 4/6/8 port managed switch for my network. What I am struggling with is the wireless component. Apart from the frustrations I have with it, the AmpliFi mesh has a high Wife Acceptance Factor, and as such I need to make sure the switch is painless. I have had a look at new Mesh systems but they all come bundled with a router, which I really don't want to be spending money on as I will immediately switch it to bridge mode and it will irritate me that I have paid for something I won't ever use. I do have some restrictions in my home, I rent and while the landlord is very happy for me to run ethernet cables in existing conduit, there is no conduit that I can use that runs to the top floor of my house or to the home office. While the landlord is happy to pay for the ethernet cabling as he see's it as an upgrade for future renters if I move out, he doesn't exactly want to bash open walls to run conduit for me at the moment. The home office is on a separate electrical supply with its own meter so I can't utilise Powerline to bring the network into the home office. So mesh seems to be the right bet, but I am not sure what components to go for to get me stable, fast, signal all over the house without spending a chunk of money on a router. I was thinking that if I went with a TP-Link Omada controller (OC300) and Access Points (EAP653) and had one of the AP wired into my managed switch, I could then use DC wall plug to power the remaining AP around the house and they would create a mesh network with the one wired into the network based on what I have read in the product description but I don't know enough about network hardware to 100% sure. I would appreciate the hive mind here giving me some direction on the best way to sort this out. The only things I am set on is the PFSense router on protectli and not having a "dead" router in bridge mode to enable WIFI, but open to better or other suggestions.

Greetings all knowing LTT specialists ! Loving LTT for over 9 years now, Yet posting my first post on the forum as I ran out of possible solutions for my issue. I am not sure if it’s relevant but when Speaking about Vodafone in this post I am referring to UK Vodafone’s WiFi Router and/or its network. I have recently started to be interested in networking and Home lab stuff (TrueNAS and Virtualisation). I have absolutely no experience with networking other than working with DNS records. With Countless efforts that led to no usable results,I have decided to ask for your help as Stuff I found online is mentioning NAT and other settings which I struggle to Identify on my routers. I live with other people in shared accommodation, each of us have own room with our own devices connected to the WiFi (Vodafone). We often accidentally connect to each others TVs and WiFi Speakers. To avoid this as well as to increase the security of my Devices (And Files on SMB) I’ve considered getting my own broadband, however due to contracts being either too expensive or 24months , I’ve decided to keep using the network that is Provided by the landlord and connect My WiFi Router (Tenda AX3000 RX9 PRO) to the Shared WiFi Router via LAN (Vodafone LAN -> Tenda WAN) and create a Subnetwork That would NOT allow Others to connect to devices on my private network. I am including the desired Configuration as a diagram below. I know the general consensus is that Two WiFi Routers are not optimal for a network. But as a student I have Limited Resources when it comes to Networking tech so I tried to use what I already have. Additionally, The house I live in has the WiFi Router on a shelf to cover The whole house with limited space for adding more devices or even Plugging more stuff into the power socket. (Unsurprisingly) I am struggling with Making things work. The SSID (The Promised LAN) of my Router is Not always Visible or available for connection on my devices. If I connect a Device via either WIFI (when I’m lucky enough to see it) or ETHERNET I get an “Unable to connect to the network” Message. (iOS , Android , Mac and Windows have the same issue) I have tried to set up my router with static IP and Dynamic IP , DHCP ON/OFF as well as Some manual Network configuration on both routers. (Landlord provided me with admin Login to Vodafone router), I have also tried to use “Automatic Setup” , However Every attempt to make things work ends up with my private network not working properly and connecting to the internet only for a few seconds after the Router restart before the network disappears and stops working again. Would I be better off Adding a managed switch (like TL-SG605E) Between Router 1 (Vodafone) and Router 2 (Tenda)? As I said before, the WiFi Shelf has no space left for any more devices. For that reason I Have a cable running to my room, so I would prefer to have All Necessary Equipment In my room Where it’s Easier to access If I ever need to plug anything else in while being able to ensure no one else is able to connect something in and Have access to my subnetwork without even realising it. While I don’t store much of Sensitive Data on my Network Drive Yet , I do intend to store client data (which could be sensitive )on my pc once I start my freelance side hustle(OFC I will take other steps to keep it safe, but I would still prefer to keep it as Safe as possible while keeping it local and easily accessible from Both PC and Laptop). I will be thankful for any Help, suggestions or Alternatives or you can provide me with. Ideally With step by step instructions or Screenshots. I hope I Described my situation clearly enough. English is not my first language and my ADHD is not making it any easier to keep the thoughts grouped So if anything is unclear please ask away , I’ll happily clarify anything you need clarified May your Connections be stable and reliable! Thanks THE DESIRED CONFIGURATION :

Hi guys and gals and everyone inbetween... I need to find a router that can be programmed to give out more than 255 IP's on DHCP (The range Ii want to add is 172.25.0.0 to 172.25.1.0 (255.255.254.0) ) which allows the AP's to collectively dish out +_ 500 IP's in our company... I used to use a TP-Link Archer C7, but they are not in production anymore, need something to replace it with. Specsheets are not helping, and the few new routers I have in the officee only allow 254 IP's in the DHCP range, unless I'm missing something. Helpppppppp Thanks peeps

I have an old G linksys router collecting dust. Has anyone found the best use for them or maybe used as a repeater or access point? Firewall, Media Server......one more thing, if someone has the ability (2 NIC Cards) to run dual ethernet lines, is there any performance gains or security gains and has anyone used the MAC changing abilities in *Nix?

I bought an MSI a520-a pro couple days ago, i put it inside case, installed cpu, etc.. Installed my wifi card, installed the drivers for wifi card, and the wifi card usually has a red led that lights up the wifi symbol on the card, but nothing, i did all i could to try to fix, but nothing, so i sent it back to amazon and bought a b450 pro-vdh max which arrived yesterday, this time the motherboard detects the bluetooth and the bluetooth works fine now, but still no wifi. I have no idea what is wrong. in board explorer, it shows the slot that the wifi card is in "pci_e3" as empty. I've updated the bios to lated and everything