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Hey so I wasnt really sure where to post this but here we go: I am planning to buy a monitor (LG Electronics 34WK95C-W, 34") and a new GPU (RTX 2070 Super). Since the card and the monitor both have a USB-C port, so I was planning to use those. Now, since the monitor also has 2 USB 3.0 ports, do these ports still work since the monitor is plugged into the GPU via USB-C? I thought about using these ports for the wireless receivers of my mouse & keyboard (MX Master 3 & MX Keys). Thanks in advance for your help!

Hi, I've been using Acer Aspire 7 laptop with Asus VZ249HE external monitor for a year using an HDMI connection. I'm thinking of upgrading my setup to include another, preferably identical, monitor. This brings following questions: 1. Would I be able to use my laptop's USB-C 3.1 Gen 1 port to connect to the HDMI port of the new monitor? 2. If not, would it be possible with any other monitor? 3. Is it safe to assume that I would just need a USB-C to HDMI cable in above cases? 4. Would the GTX 1050 Ti GPU be powerful enough to run both the external monitors and possibly the laptop's monitor at the same time? All of them are 1920x1080 60 Hz and I mean office/coding workload or potentially gaming on one of the monitors. All the specification and links to mentioned hardware: a) Acer Aspire 7: https://www.acer.com/datasheets/2018/4876/A715-72G/NH.GXCEP.013.html b) Asus VZ249HE: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07281PZWK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1 c) potential USB-C to HDMI cable: https://www.amazon.co.uk/CHOETECH-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-ChromeBookl-Gold/dp/B01M02FLYO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+c+to+hdmi&qid=1572390307&sr=8-3 Thanks in advance for any help to my rather lengthy question! Filip

Recently I have really gotten into building custom keyboards. I have begin to think that the next step is to make my own braided cable. Anyone have brands or methods they'd recommend for buying semi bulk USB-C cable?

Hi everyone, TLDR: what's an elegant, cost-effective solution for me to connect two 24" 1080p screens, a USB-C to Ethernet dongle, USB-C laptop charger, USB-A wireless mouse receiver and (occasionally) an external Samsung SSD to my Lenovo C940 at the same time. I was wondering if ya'll could help me come up with an elegant solution for my current setup. I'm already knee deep in the dongle life with this thing and running out of USB ports. My goal is to extend my screen real estate in the most elegant/efficient way possible. Current setup: Lenovo C940 Yoga laptop (2x USB-C, 1x USB-A 3.0). Dell U2414H (1080p, 60hz) connected through HDMI Dongles: 1x USB-C to Ethernet adapter, 1x USB/HDMI hub (monitor connects to this) USB-A port occupied by Logitech G Pro wireless receiver I wanted an ultra wide monitor but I haven't found any that don't have a flaw or limitation that I'm comfortable with. I then stumbled upon the Dell U2419HC and thought perfect, why not two screen of the same screens? 1080p IPS is still viable for my needs and it's way cheaper, plus I know that the U24XXH/HC series is solid.

Hello everyone, I resolved to ask for your help as I recently bought a teclast laptop for work and I need some enlightment on usb-c charging. Fact is that the laptop was supplied to me with its original charger which outputs 12V/2A=24W total. In order to play on the safer side I decided to buy a usb-c charger and a proper C-to-C cable in order to avoid using the (probably "el-cheapo") original one. I bought an Aukey PA-D1 charger and a CB-CMD38 cable. Fact is that the charger actually outputs 12V/2.5A (instead of 12V/2A as the original charger). In my past experience I knew I had to pay attention to Voltage (it had to be exactly the one required by the laptop) but the Voltage could be higer. Considering I'm dealing with usb-c Power Delivery I wonder if I should pay attention to something else. I don't wanna fry the laptop :) I hope someone can help me to shed some light on this or eventally guide me to the appropriate section. Thank You for your kind help

Hello guys! Hope you are doing well So i got myself a pair of UiiSii C8 earphones for my OnePlus 6T. The main reason for buying these was a usb-c type connection, I just hate adapters/dongles. UiiSii work perfectly with my OnePlus, never had any issues. My PC however doesn't want to work with them for some reason. I have a MSI B360M Mortar motherboard, which has a usb-c type port. When I stick UiiSii into motherboards usb-c port, nothing happens. It just does not recognize them at all. I've already updated my MB BIOS to the latest version as well as audio drivers from B360M official website. Earphones do not appear in sound menu. Choosing Realtek Digital Output instead of a standard one makes no difference. Maybe you have some ideas how to make UiiSii pairing/working with my PC?

I'm trying to figure out what kind of USB Hub/Dock I would need for a laptop setup. Me and my Wife both have work laptops and personal laptops and I would like a setup where we can plug any of the laptops in, ideally with a single cable. The dock will need to allow us to connect to: 2 Displays (preferably 1440p each, but 1080p will also be ok) Gigabit Ethernet USB Type A ports for keyboard, mouse etc The laptops we have are HP Elitebook 840 G5 (USB-C w/Thunderbolt support) Lenovo ThinkPad L380 Yoga (I think its USB-C only) Dell XPS 13 9360 (USB-C w/Thunderbolt support) Acer Swift SF314-51 (USB-C only) The first 2 laptops are our work laptops, so they are the priority, it would just be nice if it also worked with our own laptops. Does a Hub even exist that can do this? I'm not to bothered about power over USB C as I know not all laptops support that.

Hi, As the title suggest, I'm looking for USB-C flash drive that could support 10Gbps (USB 3.2 Gen 2).

Hi, I own a Acer Spin 11 Chromebook that will soon be turned into a media player. I'm covered video-wise, thanks to a cheap hub with all the video outs that I need. Main problem is audio, since my only audio out is currently the headphone jack. I wish to be able to plug the Chromebook to my old but trusty sound system, preferably digitally. Anyone could recommend a not-too-expensive-thanks USB-C hub or adapter that : offers a TOSLINK out is known to have zero issue with a Chromebook Thanks!

Hi from France everyones ? So basically, I'm struggling hard to find the perfect match for a dock to plug at my 16" MPB, and I'm wondering if you have some ideas. The question is do I need to go full Thunderbolt 3 powwwer or can a strong "simple USB-C" be enough for my needs ? (because obviously I would much likely prefer to save the €100++ extra) Speaking of my needs : - a 1440p monitor - another one at 1080p (60hz for both would be awesome ofc but I guess 30 is ok) - full gigabit ethernet port - at least 2 USB 3.x type A (external drive and keyboard) - a spare USB type C and/or A port would be great (for usb stick) - jack 3.5 audio out would be great So more precisely, my question is do you think this dock https://i-tec.cz/en/produkt/c31dualdockpd-2/ can be ok, or would the USB 3.?? link be too weak ? Because on the paper, regarding the available connectivities, it seems perfect, but it's not "true TB3" if I understand correctly ? So I'm afraid to get poor speeds and stability Same question with this one https://i-tec.cz/en/produkt/catriple4kdockpd-2/ , or any other of that sort Or then do I need to go for one of those Elgato, Belkin, .. big "full TB3" stuff ..? Thanks a lot if you got any hints that could help me make a safe choice. And in advance happy new year to everyones ?

Hi guys, I'm building a PC for my sister but we're stuck on the case selection. With future-proofing in mind, Im advocating getting a case with front USB-C ports. But getting an ATX case with that port AND no 'gamer' is turning out tough. Our current choice is the Fractal Define R6 USB-C, but it's quite pricey and a bit bigger than unsuitable alternatives. Can you point me in the right direction? Based in the netherlands fwiw. Thanks

Hey everyone, i have a monitor than can run 144hz and am planning to get a Scar III, unfortunately my monitor doesn't support HDMI 2. After a bit of reading i found out thunderbolt 3 could woek but unfortunately the Scar III doesnt have thuderbolt 3, so I was wondering, could a USB-C to Displayport adpater run 1080p144hz

What would happen if I plugged in my 2019 15" MBP to my desktop motherboard that has a gen 1 Type-C? Will the MBP charge or just completely kill the USB C port? Asking for a friend

Hello I have to move between 2 places monthly and want to have desktop grade power and as much portability as possible but dont want a laptop. So I was looking to put together my pc using a small mini ITX motherboard and small case. It would also be quite handy if I only need to plug in the power and 1 usb-c for all my peripherals. Is it possible to get the video from a dedicated GPU through the motherboards usb-c port, is it necessary that its a Thunderbolt port? I am always very confused in which cases you can get video over usb-c and in which case its just a usb 3 with a different connector. Thanks for helping :)

Just watched this Video and was confused, thought that Externals GPUs only work with Thunderbolt 3? He says that this dock works with Dual USB Type C and i dont know if this is real or not, maybe someone could explain. Sry if this is a dumb question, I'm new here.?

Hello, I a getting a MacBook Air and a dock that has 2 usb 3.0, a usb-c, sd card reader, a micro sd card reader, and a hdmi input. I have no use for the hdmi port so I want to get an adapter from hdmi male to usb-c female, there is nothing anywhere. I can think of 3 reasons either I am blind, it doesn't exist, or it is not possible. I would even be fine with and hdmi male to usb-a 3.0 female to then connect a usb-a 3.0 to usb-c female even though it would be a pain.

All laptops are said to get USB-C, which can be advantageous due to universal adaption and interchangeable connectors. But some gaming laptops have power suppliers with well beyond 100 W, some even >200W. USB-C can not handle currents that high. Their workload is limited to 100W (20V 5A), which is excellent for a connector of that small size, but can not cope with the workloads of the circular DC connector. Will they be able to charge through two USB-C ports simultaneously then?

Hi. I am going to get ahold of the Gigabyte eGPU 1080 device to be paired with a Lenovo Yoga Gen3 (i5). https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N1080IXEB-8GD#kf I am planning on testing the eGPU with Time Spy / PC-Mark on different displays 1080/1440/2160. I am also planning on running the gpu itself with a desktop computer running pcie at 16x vs 4x on the same resolutions. The eGPU device will be used for business/streaming purposes and I am wondering what tests or comparisons you would like to see.

This is a long long long shot and possibly a stupid question, but is there any expansion cards that turn internal SATA ports to USB-C thunderbolt 3 ports? I currently own a laptop with an optical disk drive I do not have use for and I'm hoping to replace it with some a thunderbolt 3 port so I can use a docking station with it.

Hello everybody, I've got a Lenovo ThinkPad L380 Yoga with an Intel Core i5-8250U, 8GB RAM, 256GB NVMe SSD running Windows 10 Education (Version 1803) with all drivers installed according to Lenovo Vantage. I recently bought a powerbank that is able to charge devices via Power Delivery with up to 30W. Frankly, it doesn't charge my laptop, which normally draws about 40-50W when plugged in. Here comes the funny thing: when I enable the setting in Vantage, which stops charging the battery as soon as its SOC is highter than a certain level, it kind of works. In this state my laptop only draws about 5-10W and does not charge the battery. To test the powerbank's maximum power output i ran the XTU stress test and charged my phone wia the laptop's USB port. The powerbank can deliver up to 33W. Now comes my question: Is it possible to reduce the laptop's charging speed down to a level where the powerbank can handle it? I didn't find any setting to en-/disable fast charging etc. Thanks in advance Johannes Edit: I solved it! In Lenovo Vantage there is a setting called "Airplane-Energy-Mode". As soon as i toggle that, my laptop only draws around 25W when not doing heavy workloads.

I'm looking for a new phone and with the headphone jack being dropped by seemingly everyone lately, I wanted to know what kind of audio quality I would be getting if I used a dongle as opposed to a normal 3.5mm jack. I've heard there are both active and passive adapters and some passive adapters only work on some phones. I already have a couple of decent pairs of headphones that have 3.5mm connections (Monster iSport Victory wired for the gym and Sennheiser HD 598SE for other situations). Normally I just plug them into my phone and use the default Google music player on my phone and it sounds good. I've tried a dongle in the past to convert a straight plug to angled and my audio quality dropped substantially. I just want to know if I am going to notice a difference if I use one of these USB-C to 3.5mm Dongles and if there are some dongles that are better than others. Any help would be appreciated!

First of all, if you use Apple: cool, please dont advertise how "compatible" your stuff is – this thread is mainly for Android users. I suppose a clarification is needed, concerning an average smartphone user ability of outputting image generated on this device to an external monitor. Clarification that I seek, because I'm really confused what do I really need in order for this to work. To begin with, I'd like to note, that the USB-C "revolution" has made it's way, but things are really messy now, when it comes to actual cooperation of devices, aside the very possibility of connecting them together. Yes, there are dongles that fit both the phone, and the tip of a display cable, but when you connect it all together, you may find that nothing happens. The protocols are to blame – USB-C Alternate Modes, and Mobile High-Definition Link (MHL). The latter – MHL is a propietary standard, developed prior to USB-C, by a consortium of Sony and alike. You could connect a display via a slightly modified micro-USB plug, but if – and only if – anyone along your device development chain has shelled out some cash for the licence. You may be among these lucky owners of MHL-compatible devices (made both with, and prior to USB-C). Any questions are more or less answered on http://www.mhltech.org , perhaps aside the fact that the display also has to be MHL-complatible, unless an active adapter is used (please correct me if I'm wrong). If anyone is in the know, please give an insight, whether this technology still has any traction and whether it's worth investing in a device that supports this protocol over non-MHL devices. USB-C alternate modes are another way. There is an MHL Alt Mode, which may or may not still require both devices to support MHL (info needed). There is Thunderbolt Alt Mode – Thunderbolt is well advertised, and quite rare, thus not worth of description here. Then, there are HDMI Alt Mode, and DisplayPort Alt Mode – these are your best bet, if you own a USB-C equipped device: certainly worth a shot. The thing about Alt Modes is that device makers are free to pick-and-choose whichever Alt Modes they see fit. If I understand this correctly, there is no official list of DP-Alt, or HDMI-Alt Mode compatible devices. Here, I'd like to ask a key question: what are these protocols bound to? I mean, is DP Alt Mode compatibility a thing, that should be associated with SOC model, or is it a certain setup of SOC-to-display circuit jumble? In the first case, the SOC maker decides whether his product has the given Alt Mode. In the second, the maker of the device decides, whether he'd like your model to be able to split the signal destined from the logic board to the screen. Or is it a software thing? That TECHNICALLY all you'd need is to beep on the pins correctly – and hence something like an Android update, or a kinda-like-Cyanogen reflash could potentially bring this functionality to the device? Of course, there is always an option of pushing video over WiFi with something like a Chromecast, or a compatible Smart TV. However, this option is relatively high-cost and not as portable, as a direct connection. Relying on a wireless device for this process also introduces unwanted lag, and is susceptible to packet loss or whatever. Only one question here: could this setup work directly? Precisely: if we were to connect Chromecast to the hotspot made on the device from which we're casting, would this be a viable solution? Thank you for all the answers, Keeping my hopes up, - Jon

Hey guys, So I have been using my current laptop since 2012. It is a Lenovo G570-4334. I have repaired it so many times it is now held together with Super Glue and Epoxy. For example, the screen hinges broke. Initially I was able to fix it. Then that fix failed when the hinge mount on the chassis broke off. So I epoxied it to the chassis and it was good. Then the hinge mounts stripped so the screws dont stay.....I epoxied the screws and hinges together. Then the fan grill broke off and the frame near it cracked. Super-glue fixed that. I had been taking it apart and putting it back together so much nearly all the screw holes were stripped. Also it seemed that every time lately, 1 or 2 screws would go missing even when putting them all in a magnetic container. The thermal paste is Noctua NH-1. I upgraded the RAM to 8GB Crucial DDR3-1600 CAS-9. The chassis is not being opened any more outside of the doors on the underside for RAM and CPU. The chassis has been epoxied together with an extra sealant on the outside of super glue by Gorrilla Glue. As you can probably tell, this laptop has been in service for a while and unfortunately has seen some dangerous times. It usually rides in my backpack at work and is pulled out to update service tickets in the field or to assist with Router and Switch maintenance. The specs are a Sandybridge Core i3 23xx something I think. 8GB Dual Channel DDR3 1600. 1x 120GB Kingston HyperX 3K SSD. It runs Linux as Windows sucks hard on this machine at this point. Yes I tried 10 on here and NO,,,,,Hell No. So, I am here asking for assistance as I have been looking through my options and am going insane. The requirements I have are simple but sound. No, this is not a gaming computer. I do not game on a laptop if I can help it. I would be fine if it could game at the same time but I primarily watch streaming video, read E-Books, maybe Blender Modeling but also use for work in the field. I use Linux so keep in mind that I will most likely be wiping that virus of an OS (windows 10) off my machine. It needs to be friendly to Linux aka works OOTB with all hardware BT/Wifi etc Must be charged over USB-C/Thunderbolt - I am sick and tired of replacing the barrel port or replacing barrel dongle power bricks. USB C is supposed to have a longer life and stronger port. Should be 15.6" or smaller. At the smallest of 13". 13 or 14" is preferred but 15.6" is acceptable. Touchscreen is optional (not preferred) but if it is touchscreen, it needs to be able to fold over like a tablet so Im not poking at a screen like an idiot but instead using it like a tablet before I flip it back over and use the laptop like normal. I Prefer a Matte screen so I dont have to deal with glare from the sun at work. 1080p or higher -- at Most 1440p. NO NVIDIA graphics - Nvidia's drivers on Linux Suck hard. And when they dont, they are a beotch to install and break as soon as you update the kernel. If dedicated graphics are in it, they must be Intel or AMD (preferably of the Vega series aka Intel's Vega M iGPU series or a Ryzen 7 series or RX Polaris chip like the 580.) Intel or AMD - If AMD - Ryzen 2700U/2500U with Vega 10/Vega 8. If Intel - UHD 620/HD620 or Vega M (ex: Intel Core i7-8809G) Wireless AC Bluetooth 4.1 or higher at minimum 8GB of RAM. Preferably 16GB. Ability to upgrade RAM would be ideal. SSD - m.2 nvme is preferable. DVDRW - not necessary Not heavy - this sucker is riding in my backpack with all my tools. I dont need any additional weight if I can help it. Sturdy/Durable materials able to take it and keep ticking. Max price ~$1800. Newegg. I use my Store card. I do not have an Amazon card at this time. So please keep it to Newegg. i have 12 months 0% APR on every purchase over $500. I have not had any issues with Newegg since I started using them in 2008. ***I would like to clarify this: I am not specifically looking for a 2-in-1 as I am less likely to use it as a tablet. I am also not specifically looking for a Kaby Lake-G. I am however specifically looking for USB-C Charging. I would like to be able to find one with a Ryzen chip like the 2700U. Or, an Intel 8th gen chip. Based on what I can find, Ryzen 2700U Vega10 is better than Kaby Lake-G Vega M. I am less likely to use touch screen than most people seem to think. I have never need to before and didnt really desire the option. The way I see it, if I want touch pad stuff, Ill get a WACOM writing pad. *** If it has the ability to have a WWAN card added for mobile computing, that would be nice to have so I dont have to tether my phone. But again, not a requirement. My laptop has been running into issues more and more as time goes on and I fear that it will break soon in a way that I can not solve at the office. I am Lenovo, Dell, HP certified for computers. HP has been on my watch list but as long as HP stays away from joining the FWUpdate group for Linux firmware updates (Dell and Lenovo are part of that group) then HP unfortunately is not in the running. FWUpdate allows you to upgrade the firmware from the Linux OS automatically like you are installing software packages. No more downloading either an ISO or booting to a Windows USB or partition just to install a BIOS update or something like that. I do like to Blender render from time to time. Here are a couple of examples of things I have made on that laptop over time. As you can see, I make the most of what I have. When I do game on this old laptop, I am playing games like Breach & Clear, Company of Heroes 1 & 2, and other top down RTS games like Warzone 2100. Not super demanding but they work. Hence my request of it being Vega graphics or at the least AMD RX Polaris series like a 580. Not simply because of gaming but also because I can use it for Blender Rendering. Can you imagine making the stuff I have with 5000 samples on a i3-Sandybridge chip? It takes HOURs to render.

I'm wanting to get a case with a USB-C port on the front panel and a motherboard with the internal USB-C front panel connector in order to connect to an Oculus Quest 2. I'm wondering if this connector can power and charge it. Would also be useful to charge a laptop easily. What are the USB Power Delivery specifications on this connector, if it has any? Also, is there Power Delivery on back panel connectors?

Hi everyone, I bought the NZXT case H150, in that case there is a usb-c port on the front but on my mobo i dont have any usb-c header (its a Asus Strix B450-F). There is any possible change to convert the usb-c cable in something and still use it as a usb-c? Thanks