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I bought a iCUE LINK H150i RGB and it seems one of the little plastic bags that contain the screws got torn. The screws & washers (aka spacers) got out, and the iCUE LINK system has got magnets all over so they got stuck to various things. I recovered everything except a single washer that's still missing. The washers are for the smaller screws that mount the AIO to the case (in my instance, a 5000D). I don't want to put in the screw without the washer so I figured I'll just make do with 11 mounting screws instead of 12...one less screw in the middle shouldn't be an issue right? But the bigger question I have is that I suspect the 12th washer is still in there somewhere, stuck to something. I looked everywhere around the AIO, even took out the pre-installed fans. Just can't find it. I don't think it fell into the radiator fins (there's no magnets in there so it should've made some noise when I shook it ). Assuming it's stuck somewhere it shouldn't be, am I risking a short? Should I seek to return the AIO & get a replacement?

Hello everyone, I have a recurring problem hope someone has an answer to it, I have built a pc a while ago with 2 sticks of ddr5 ram and after a shutdown 1 of the sticks completely stops working, I changed that ram and same problem, it is only happening with shutdowns not reboots. My pc specs : CPU : Core i5-13600k GPU : 4070 ti RAM : G.Skill Ripjaws S5 DDR5 6400mhz 2x16 GB Cooler : Noctua NH-D15S Motherboard: MSI MAG Z790 TOMAHAWK WIFI PSU : MSI A1000G PCIE5 1000 W Case: 5000D Airflow As you can see in the image (sorry it's blurry) this cable is touching the motherboard just where the RAM slots are located, could it have shorted the RAM sticks ? If it doesn't resolve the problem I'm lost since I changed the motherboard already to test things out. Thank you for your time

I have had my pc for a little over a year and today I had it on for about 10 minutes and I unplugged my headphones from the front io then a spark happened on the motherboard at the JAud1 plug and caused a burn mark. I contacted Microcenter to start a claim and they said they won't warranty it because of physical damage even though I purchased their 2 year replacement plan

I bought a 5v 3 pin argb splitter on amazon to connect 2 fans and the liquid artic freezer to synchronize the colors with the x470 taichi motherboard. When I connected it, all the fans were synchronized but the power supply turned off and on after 15 seconds (without turning on the PC). When I turned on the PC, the power supply no longer turned off and the lights were synchronized, but when I turned off the PC the power supply stopped. It turns off and turns on after approximately 15 seconds. Remove the argb splitter and connect each fan individually to the 5v 3 pin argb port on the motherboard and now the same process occurs when the PC is turned off. The fountain turns on and off every 15 seconds. Has the 5v 3 pin port on the board broken? Can something be done? What seems strange to me is that when the PC is turned on the short circuit no longer occurs. Please help

I'm going to feel like a real idiot here because I KNEW BETTER. I was troubleshooting an issue with Asus tech sport. We were trying to figure out why a new cpu wouldn't allow my pc to fully boot up. The motherboard wouldn't boot past the dram q-led indicating there was a ram issue. Not sure why because I didn't touch the ram, only the cpu. So they instructed me to turn off the pc, remove all the ram except for the B2 slot and power back on. Still no change. THEN they said to put a ram card into the A2 slot. I asked if I should turn the pc off and they said no. I asked again to clarify just in case their were any misunderstandings. Again they said with the pc on, insert the next ram card. Well, I think we all know what happened next. Pc instantly shuts off, and now even with the old cpu reinstalled I cant get past the dram error on my motherboard. Everything powers on and lights up, it just wont complete the boot process. I have tried one at a time swapping my ram cards into only the B2 slot, shutting it off each time. Tried power cycling. Have not tried resetting bios yet but I don't know if that will fix anything if my ram slots are shot. Honestly I don't know what else to try at this point. So here are my questions: 1) Is there anything else I can do to troubleshoot and possibly fix the problem? 2) If I shorted out my ram slots, could I have also shorted the ram cards? If so, how can I tell/test them? 3) Could I have shorted out any other components (gpu, wifi card, m.2 cards)? For reference, here is my setup: Asus X470-F motherboard AMD Ryzen 2700X cpu G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4 ram, 4 x 8GB Corsair RX850 psu Sapphire RX 7900 XT gpu If anyone has any suggestions I would greatly appreciate it. Really do not want to have to build a whole new pc because of this. Thanks in advance.

So my laptop is Acer Nitro 5 An515-43. I usually remove battery and do the stuff. But yesterday I forgot to takeout the battery. And while removing the screws of fans that I was about to clean.. A screw fell on the smd capacitor and a tiny spark came. the capacitor was near to the bios. I immediately connected the battery and turned on but only keyboard light and fans are working. And display is not working. No output via hdmi too. What could have gone wrong? When I gave to sc he said that gpu is gone. But I don't think so.. please anyone guide me regarding this?

I have a pc i just built but don't know what pins I need to short to start it. pls help. thanks.

Hey, so i am putting together my PC components in a Zalman N3 case I have put everything together, except for the Fan power (interestingly this case has a molex connector for all 3 fans and is labeled as 'Fan Controller power'). After that i just need to turn it on This is my first time building a PC from scratch and being a student on limited budget, i can't really purchase any replacements if something goes wrong. Enclosing pictures of the inside of the case and also the cable management compartment. Please see if there is any dangerous wiring and any possibility of shorting anything please, please point it out. I would be grateful P.S : feeling really nervous right now

Just built a new PC, everything was running fine until I decided to set the Corsair h100 aio pump and fan speed to extreme to test. I reboot the pc and it shorts out, dead. I swapped the psu and the mobo leds lit up, pressed power and everything started sparking and sizzling, I shut off power from the psu At this point I smelled burning from the aio and commander pro controller. I replaced the aio and tested with just the 24 pin mobo connector, cpu and gpu pcie and it works fine. So I plugged in the sata connectors and the same thing, sparks and sizzling sounds. I’ve isolated the issue of to the sata connection cable to the psu as the culprit, but how do I fix this? My fans and hdd can’t run without it. Do I need to rma the mobo? specs ROG Crosshair viii dark hero mobo ryzen 5900x RTX 3080 founder edition Samsung 980 pro ssd corsair rm850x lian li 24pin and 8 pin vga strimer cable lian li uni fan 120 x3 asia horse matrix 360 fans lian li led strip

So my sons computers graphics card died , it was Evga 1060 6gb B-stock. I was able to get an rma. My question is: is it posible to test the pcie on the power supply to make sure that it was a faulty card and not faulty power that caused the card to go up in smoke , or am i stuck buying a new Power supply to be sure . Thank you gigabite z270 mobo i5 6500 evga 500 pw 1060 6rg ( now rma with 1660ti) 16 gig of generic Hynix ram

need help diagnosing how bad this problem is and what need to be replaced. Got a 3070 and updated my PSU to a 750w. When I did the install I thought I had a bad PSU so I returned it. When installing the PSU I realized my actual problem was I mixed up the cables for the power supply. got everything installed, correct cables, and power up. No screens turn on. plug screens into the motherboard. Still nothing on the monitors. Plug a monitor into my laptop and it turns on. When I did get everything powered I heard a spark and smelled that dreaded smell. I think i fired somthing. But how to I tell what is fired and what isn't.

Hey guys, so today when I turned on my computer, the system turned on, my ram lit up fans turned on etc, but no display, was working earlier that day so confused I press the power button on the case to reset and I seen sparks fly from the case. I quickly unplugged everything, after investigating I found the damage as you can see in the picture. So I guess what my question is, is there anything that can be done for the card and what might have caused this to happen, just a bad card or could there be a problem with my system?. I'm picking up a 3070 tomorrow hopefully and don't want there to be a problem when I try to put it into my system. A little info on the system, b550 aorus master motherboard Ryzen 9 3900x Aorus gtx 1080ti Hx1000i platinum power supply I've had the system for over 2 years with no problems and recently upgraded the motherboard and cpu, about 4 months ago with what's listed above, haven't had any troubles before this. I powered on the system without the graphics card to make sure it's still working, everything seemed fine, no error codes in the read out on the board but won't know till I get a replacement card Cheers in advance

Hello, My PC has been working fine for months. Today I did something that was probably dumb. A coworker had two old hdds that she wanted to take the pictures off of from a dead relative. The problem was they were IDE ATA drives. So I got a converter on newegg, unplugged the sata power and data from my extra data drive and plugged it into the adapter with the old hdd outside of the case. When I hit the power button there was instantly a crack and a little spark and flame appeared on the hdd, I cut power to the computer right away. Honestly don't know if the hard drive was already dead, or if the adapter was just not something to trust. Then after that, I unplugged the adapter, plugged my old hard drive back in, didn't change anything else. When I went to turn my computer back on, the lights on my AIO (Corsair H100i) were flashing randomly in a way I haven't seen before. I let it run for a bit but the PC didn't seem to ever post. I tried to shut it down with the power button but that didn't seem to do anything, even holding it down for 10 seconds. So I switched the power button on the psu. Now when I boot the computer, all the rgb on my motherboard, my ram and my graphics cards startup. The case fans and the fans on the AIO start up. But the lights on the pump of the AIO and the lights on the case fans and and AIO fans don't light up. The computer then never finishes POST. The fans all just keep spinning indefinitely. I never see anything on the monitor, so I can't even get to the bios. Also the rgb on my keyboard and other peripherals doesn't lightup, which normally the keyboard lights up right away even if the others don't. So far I have unplugged and reseated every power cable I can think of. I have reset the cmos by using the jumper for about 5 minutes and then also by taking the battery out for About 10 minutes. Also I have looked over the motherboard and couldn't see any obvious signs of a short. But it is a black pcb and I was just using my phone's flashlight so I could have missed something. Tomorrow I am going to try taking out the cpu and reseating it. I am also going to borrow an old monitor with a VGA port, just in case for some reason my problem is I can't see bios from display port. My first thought is that the psu might have a short from the hdd, but everything on the motherboard seems to be getting power. My second guess is maybe the motherboard also got shorted, but the lights still work and I get fan spin. That leaves me thinking my CPU was damaged. If anyone has any experience with this I would love to hear about it. I have heard of hard drives catching on fire before, I just wasn't expecting it to happen, and I really wasn't expecting it to kill my pc. I have; a ryzen 3800x asrock b450m steel legion motherboard A corsair 550m psu 2 sticks of gskill trident z ram A corsair H100i platinum AIO A MSI Duke GTX 1080 An Intel m.2 SSD A samsung 960evo ssd A WD blue 1Tb hdd

so im thinking of building a pc soon and the case that i liked was the cooler master q500l but apon talking to some people and reviews i have heard that it is just not good for airflow and i wanna try look for another case but i reall like the smallness of the q500l with it only being as tall as the atx motherboard. so my question is does anyone have any recommendations on similar cases to that one but are not that one

Here is my Build: Processor: AMD Ryzen 7 3800X (NEW) Motherboard: B450-A PRO (NEW) Graphics Card: nVidia GTX 1060 6 GB (1 Year old) Case: RAIDMAX SMILODON ATX-612WB RAM: G.SKILL Aegis 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3000 (PC4 24000) Desktop Memory Model F4-3000C16D-16GISB (NEW) Power Supply: CORSAIR TXM Series, TX750M, 750 Watt, 80+ Gold Certified, Semi Modular Power Supply (1 year old) Cooler: Ryzen Stock Cooler (Wraith Prism) (NEW) Hard Drive: ST3320620AS SSD: PNY CS1311 240 GB Here is my problem, my computer shuts itself off. I ruled out thermal issues through looking at the temperatures through BIOS and other monitors and the fan is still spinning consistently. I took apart the PC in an attempt to try and fix the issue, because I had the idea that the motherboard was causing an electrical short with the plate on the back of the case. I have never overclocked any part of my system. And for a time it seemed as if my issue was solved by removing the back plate entirely from the computer case. Until these last few days when the computer has, once again, begun to shut itself down. Without being under load a significant load. There are no cable changes occurring, no vibrations occurring in the surrounding space, and things seem to be going fine, until the computer shuts itself down. In an effort to try and cause a BSOD to tell some kind of information and rule out certain possibilities, I disabled the automatic restart that occurs, but the shutoffs are still occurring without displaying any sort of information. There did not seem to be anything wrong with the way the motherboard was mounted on the case, and now that there is no back plate on the case where the USBs are plugged in, there should not be a short there. Another little tidbit of information that might lead to the conclusion of a power distribution failure is that VERY RARELY (twice in the last month) when I try and run certain games, the monitors will go black, as if they were no longer connected to the computer, and then they would come back on. Only once did the monitors not come back on, but while that was happening, the sound was still playing through my headphones. I was monitoring the temperatures in the bios when shutdowns were occurring, for the CPU and the GPU (The computer once or twice shut off while I was staring at the temperatures in the bios). I recently got into checking the reliability monitor tool, but it doesn't display any helpful information. When I look in the event viewer it doesn't have any recent hardware events at the shut off time, only the critical message when I reboot the pc saying that the shutoff that occurred at a given time was unexpected. Nothing is out of the ordinary there. If at all possible I would like to save doing a reinstall of windows as a last resort. The CPU, MB, and RAM were all new, but the case I have is not a new case, it is the same case that I have had for the past decade, so one idea is that the new MB is occasionally making contact with the case and that is causing the short. NOT SURE ABOUT THAT ONE. I did not reinstall the OS, the HDD and SSD are still the same as before. This particular type of issue is exclusive to since I upgraded the MB, Processor, ram. If it were a software issue causing my crashes, wouldnt that cause a BSOD? I believe that either there is still a short somewhere, or there has been irreparable damage done to the power supply (be it because of the shorting or because of another type of failure within that part. What seems to be the cause of the problem and how do you recommend I approach solving it?

PSU Shorted, Possibly more Shorted PSU, possibly more Made a huge fuck up. Of all things PC related I know, I had no idea that Modular PSU cables are to only use cables from their manufacturer, which is where I made a mistake. As of now, I connected a “universal” third party PSU-SATA connector to power my Corsair command fan hub, and Corsair case RGB lighting. When turning the pc on, instantly heard a shorting noise come from the PSU and a smell of smoke. My questions is where to go from here to trouble shoot components. I have already bought another PSU, but was told that if I directly connect this up and try to boot I could end up shorting the new PSU if one of my other components are shorted. So, I don’t know where to go from here as I have a friends PC I could start in steering my GPU, RAM, HDD, And SSD in. But if one of those pieces are “fucked” could it possibly short components on his PC? and how would I check the motherboard without connecting it to the PSU “if” the motherboard may be shorted, and hence end up shorting the new PSU? Very confused on where to go from here, would highly appreciate some help. Here are the components UserBenchmarks: Game 98%, Desk 90%, Work 81% CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X - 88.9% GPU: Nvidia GTX 1080 - 102.2% SSD: Apotop S3C 512GB - 96.8% HDD: WD Blue 1TB (2012) - 104.1% RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO DDR4 3200 C16 2x16GB - 92.5% MBD: Asus ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING PSU: CORSAIR RM750

I built a PC in South Korea, in October 2017. This is a PCPartPicker link to all the specifications. I built it successfully and was able to play it from 2017 until late 2019, when me and my family had to move away to India. I should mention that South Korea uses 110 volts AC, and India uses 220. So when I plugged the PC in directly, the lights flickered on and it worked for two seconds, then pop! Everything shut off. The PC had killed the power to the whole house! We had to call an electrician to reset the power, and then we pretended like it had never happened. We bought a new power cord to replace the old one, and yesterday, attempted to turn it back on. We put the new power cord in through a surge protector and nothing happened - the PC didn't turn on. I believe the power supply was fried (even though it was rated from 100-240 V AC). Should I do a paperclip test or just pay to replace it? For info, my power supply is a SeaSonic G 550 W, link here: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/DPCwrH/seasonic-power-supply-ssr550rm. Paperclip test or declare it DOA and get a new one? It wouldn't be the hardest thing in the world, but it would just be annoying.

Hi, i have laptop acer aspire E5-476G, i bought this usb hub with a dc power adapter. I works find at first but then when i insert the dc power, my laptop turn off on its own. When i try to turn back on, it just shows a black screen but all my usb port work just fine (i charge my phone lol), theres also led light showing that my laptop is turn on and my fan is running too. Anyone know what is happening here? How to fix this problem?

Hi guys so basically my pc that I just built won't turn on. When I press the power button the motherboard flashes red, one of the case fans slightly moves and the gpu flashes blue but then it just powers off completely. Any help? I attached a picture and I know my cables are a mess I just wanted to see that it worked before I managed them

My laptops motherboard has a short on it somewhere, before i waste time visiting HP support center, i want to know if it is easy to fix problem? My motherboard has Amd fs1r2 socket and comes with on board radeon descrete graphics. Laptop model HP pavalion G6 2201 ax

The reason I am posting it is because of very bad performance in opening simple apps. I have seen a 5-year old HDD PC with a worse specs perform better in that regard. Both my GPU and HDD are performing way below expectations. 1. Battlefield 1: The most I am worried about is it's performance in game has declined dramatically. Where I used to play Battlefield 1 with 1080p lowest settings with above 60fps and no stutters, now even with half the resolution scale and console commands to improve performance I am hovering at around 40fps which would had been playable but there are stutters always in the middle. I just can't play this game at all now. 2. Counter Strike: Earlier was never worried about the performance of the game because it always delivered. Never wanted to look at what fps I was running at because it was not needed. After a year however, it barely manages 70-80fps and drops below 40fps in between. It's the same stutter thing. 3. Battlefield Bad Company 2: A relatively light game for this laptop. Where I used to get above 100fps, now it struggles to maintain 60 and drops and freezes in game. What I have tried: 1) Refreshing the PC. 2) Deleting all PC files and then downloading and playing the game again. 3) Using Windows Debloat tool to remove all Windows Crap. 4) Stopping Nvidia Telemetry and all Nvidia extra crap, just keeping the basic ones. 5) Shortstroking. (However as mentioned below, I didn't see sweet spot, the results were just wierd): Was this test supposed to be run from another HDD with this HDD completely disabled and not in use? These results are from Windows installed in the drive and 621GB of the 930GB still free. Do these results look normal to you? 6) CPU seems to be throttled at 88% as shown by user benchmark. I tried using the trottling app and the GPU tuner for Nvidia to sort of overclock and remove this issue but the pc keeps throttling in every test I run. 7) Clearing temp, %temp% and prefetch regularly. ? Running Disk Defragment regularly. 9) Propping up the PC about 1.5 inches. This improved the performance initially but now it's the same. 10) Trying different Nvidia driver versions. Important things I noticed: 1) Constant disk usage which spikes in between and even the CPU usage. I am also attaching a normal use scenario of the pc: 2. I live in Delhi, the temperature here crosses 45 degrees now and maybe it was just the cold atmosphere back when I bought it in August that it just performed better but the result shouldn't be so pronounced. 3. Initially, the laptop used to shut down while moving it from bed to table. 4. Since I got Windows pre-installed I don't want to format the PC completely but if it comes to it, I might do it. 5. It's the only appliance plugged into the board and sometimes I charge my other peripherials from the PC like a small watch, a 2W speakers which are powered. 6. Everytime I completely format the PC, the gaming performance does improve but only for a while, after a bit it's all the same. I have also attached a CPU-Z output for the same. My userbenchmark result with Intel HD. (For some reason the HDD is shown as WD WD10SPZX-00HKTT0 1TB there) My userbenchmark result with Nvidia MX150. Also attached Nvidia Settings. AcerAspire615-51G_CPUZ_Report

Hey, i would like to know what would be the best way to do a Shunt resistor mod on my 980 ti hybrid(With Liquid metal on the die)? i know that doing it using liquid metal just giving a count down for WHEN the GPU is going to die so i would like to avoid that, i have heard people saying that it might be possible to just ad an other shunt resistor on top of the first one or just short whe shunt resistor with something else than liquid metal but i can't really find anywhere to get more info on How to do it... so i am asking it to you: What would be the Best way to power mod my 980 ti for an extended period of time(between 2-3 years)????

So, the problem is a quite interesting one. The thing is, a week ago, something happened to my computer out of nowhere. It was not turning on (the day before it worked just fine). Symptoms: when I press the power button, fans spin for like 1-2 secs, turn off, and then the same repeats. Kinda like a bootloop, but there is no post, no beeps, nothing. Okay I thought, lets diagnose this. Tried: unplugging ram sticks, booting without ram, with one ram stick, without gpu, without hard drives, still nothing, all the same. What came to my mind is that either psu or my motherboard were bust. Brought my mobo with cpu, ram and gpu to a friend, hooked up to his psu, motherboard booted up to uefi without a problem. Happy to have recognized the problem, I ordered a new psu Corsair CX550. And yesterday, I hooked up that new psu to my system, booted it, everything worked perfectly, I was so relieved having solved the problem. But now the worst part: I tried to boot the pc after night, and the symptoms are the same. It is not booting. Just like before. What I will do now is take my psu to a friend and try to boot his system with my new psu. If his system won't boot, I will know that the psu is fried. I will get it to warranty and if I get a new one I don't really want to hook it up my system again. Now my question would be, can a faulty mobo fry the psu? Maybe anyone have ever gotten anything same? PC specs: mobo: Asrock H87-M ram: 2x8 GB Crucial Ballistix gpu: Gigabyte GTX660 2GB OC psu: was (corsair cx600, worked fine for 5 years), now (corsair cx550) cpu: Intel i5-4570 SSD: Crucial MX250 HDD: Seagate 7200rpm 1TB

Hi all. I purchased a used gaming computer for pretty cheap. Inside there was an Asrock Z68 Pro 3 board with an i5 2500k, 8GB of Corsair 1600MHz RAM, an EVGA GTX 780 and a 680W Psu. The computer ran fine when i tested it before I bought it. When I brought it homr it fired up right away without any problems aswell. Since it had no HDD or SSD I couldnt get into an OS, which is fine by me because I checked everything out in the BIOS. Now I took it apart to clean it up and saw a burnt chip above the PCI-E 16x slot. Im not sure exactly what its used for but I don't believe its for anything important, since the board works perfectly. I haven't tested it in anything heavier than just browsing around and I am afraid to do so because of this. I'm scared about it shorting out or something like that when I try to run a heavier task like a game. If any of you know what that chip actually does I would appreciate it! Snapchat-1416727005.mp4 Snapchat-1416727005.mp4

Hi! I plan on using fans that dont require my 3 pin fan header, but because I have a stupid OEM board it spits out an error because the fan isnt connected. Is there a way to short or jump the connector so it thinks theres a fan. it'll boot but I have to press F1 and I'm lazy.