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I want to know if by enabling both MCE + XMP would cause potential problems for my board. My cooler is the Noctua U12S Chromax and supposedly my vrms are not great (according to this tier list), especially for an 8-core cpu like the 9700k. P.D: XMP was giving me too much vccsa and vccio voltage on auto, so I lowered them to acceptable limits while being stable.
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Hey all, I have an Asus PRIME Z590-A and I'm using Windows 11 Pro In a few words having issue with distorted audio only on the right side speaker, also happens with headphones with the integrated Realtek onboard and front case panel. I've tried removing the front HD audio from the motherboard to see if it resolved issue with integrated audio still no luck. Now this problem I can resolve by moving the right audio slider max volume to no volume a few times and it fixes it and will work perfectly fine as long as I keep using the audio. If I stop using the audio, or goes to sleep or restart or shutdown the PC, it will be distorted again on boot. I sent my MOBO to ASUS and they claim there is no problem with the board or audio Interface. Tried more troubleshooting by reinstalling my OS to WIN 10 same issue probably worse issues. Format and go back to WIN 11 still same issue. Remove drivers for Realtek and try Generic Drivers got it to work good for few days then lost audio completely. Remove all drivers and install Realtek Audio Driver V6.0.9244.1 For Windows 10/11 64-bit. From Asus Website most current, and have audio back but still have original problem as before. Bios is upgrade to latest version. I can plug my Speakers into my monitor that goes to to display port to my EVGA 3060 and no issues with audio (sound Quality is limited to 8 bit or something this way) I am at a loss I've tried removing all USB from PC and just use Audio and still no luck. Thought maybe electrical related purchased New UPS and even tried New speakers still the same issue. I have another PC I bult with an Asus H410M-a and this doesn't happen at all Perfect audio all day long. I created a short clip of how it sounds. I fell like I tried everything if anyone has Ideas shoot them below. I'm short of either buying new Board or using a USB adapter of some sort. https://youtube.com/shorts/e_YXFzgAL4A?feature=share
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Hey all, I have an Asus PRIME Z590-A and I'm using Windows 11 Pro In a few words having issue with distorted audio only on the right side speaker, also happens with headphones with the integrated Realtek onboard and front case panel. I've tried removing the front HD audio from the motherboard to see if it resolved issue with integrated audio still no luck. Now this problem I can resolve by moving the right audio slider max volume to no volume a few times and it fixes it and will work perfectly fine as long as I keep using the audio. If I stop using the audio, or goes to sleep or restart or shutdown the PC, it will be distorted again on boot. I sent my MOBO to ASUS and they claim there is no problem with the board or audio Interface. Tried more troubleshooting by reinstalling my OS to WIN 10 same issue probably worse issues. Format and go back to WIN 11 still same issue. Remove drivers for Realtek and try Generic Drivers got it to work good for few days then lost audio completely. Remove all drivers and install Realtek Audio Driver V6.0.9244.1 For Windows 10/11 64-bit. From Asus Website most current, and have audio back but still have original problem as before. Bios is upgrade to latest version. I can plug my Speakers into my monitor that goes to to display port to my EVGA 3060 and no issues with audio (sound Quality is limited to 8 bit or something this way) I am at a loss I've tried removing all USB from PC and just use Audio and still no luck. Thought maybe electrical related purchased New UPS and even tried New speakers still the same issue. I have another PC I bult with an Asus H410M-a and this doesn't happen at all Perfect audio all day long. I created a short clip of how it sounds. I fell like I tried everything if anyone has Ideas shoot them below. I'm short of either buying new Board or using a USB adapter of some sort. https://youtube.com/shorts/e_YXFzgAL4A?feature=share
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Can somebody please help. I’m working on my first ever computer build. with the following hardware: - ryzen 5 5600x - Nvidia Rtx 3060 ti - Asus prime b450m-a - Corsair vengeance pro rgb 64gb ram (second one will be added soon) - sharkoon 80 plus gold modular 850w i’ve connected everything the fans spin and I got the rgb lights lighting up. but there isn’t any posting. Like nothing no output from the motherboard or gpu. now I’ve did see that for the ryzen 5000 series my motherboard probably needs a bios update. could that be the reason that it doesn’t post?
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The motherboard name is super weird outside of the BIOS, the BIOS says it is an ASUS Prime B350M-A, but everything else says it is a "30531187-N-e-x-t-G-e-n-1022022337", In the System Information app in Windows, this is what it looks like.
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Hi. Does anyone know the difference between these two PSUs?: - seasonic snow silent 550w (gold) - seasonic focus PX 550 (platinum) I know about efficiency differences, but I am not sure which one is better. The snow silent one is highest (?) Prime line and focus PX is not (?). Snow silent was advertised as "silent" psu because of hybrid cooling mode, but focus PX also has that feature. Looking at the specs, focus PX would be better because it's the same psu but with platinum rating. But it's not white. That's all. Am I right? Thank you.
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Will the Asus Prime X470-Pro + Ryzen 7 3800x work together or will I need to upgrade my motherboard to be able to support it? System: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/KrrqHz I have all of the parts that are marked as purchased, I want to upgrade my CPU at around the same time that I get the 5700xt
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So I have decided to build a pc and have got all the components figured out except for the motherboard for which I have 2 choices: 1) ASUS Prime H310M-K R2.0 2) MSI H310M PRO-VDH PLUS I am gonna use i5 9400F with 16GB (2x8GB) G SKILL Aegis. Please help me which of the two motherboards should I get. TIA.
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Ive just built my first pc and i have a problem, i have no idea where to put my usb card reader coming from my case. Ive already used two usb slots on the motherboard. My mb is ASUS Prime B450M-A. Help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
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Hello, beforhand my apology for my English. I need some help. I can't control my RGB-Strips via Software on my pc (only with the AI Suit 3 Software), i connected the RGB cable on the RGB-Fan-Header and i can only select 6 collors with the AI Suit 3 Software(Screenshot_1), i tried installing Aura but this Error comes up (Screenshot_6) and the asus LED Control doesn't work(screenshot_2). I uninstall aura like 50 times and i restart my pc also 50 times i even reinstall Windows 10 and i tried a bios update nothing works i looked on forums for solutions but nothing worked. I looked in the BIOS and i check if there is anything caused the Problem. Do i need a new mainboard? or is their a another solution? Thanks beforhand for the help and im again sorry for my English (im from Germany). Specs: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 GPU: MSI GTX 750ti (yea i know its lame but i have that GPU like for 4 years now and i know i need a new one) RAM: 4x crucial Ballistix Sport LT Gray 4GB DDR4-2400 Mainboard: Asus Prime B350-Plus (BIOS: Version 5407) PSU: bequiet System Power 9 600W SSD: SanDisk SDSSDP128G ,Samsung SSD 750 EVO 120GB HDD: Seagate ST1000DM003-1ER162 Operating System: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit Case: Sharkoon TG5 RGB
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I have an LSI MegaRAID 9260-8i hardware RAID card running on an Asus PRIME x399-a motherboard. The RAID card works fine, but I can't access the firmware config utility to make any changes to its setup. I tried a previous suggestion to press Ctrl+H at the RAID card's prompt, then enter the motherboard's boot menu with F8 and select the RAID card, but this didn't work; it skipped straight ahead to load Windows. Is there any other way to get in?
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Had a virus so I wiped the system. Reinstalled everything it works well but I get random Bsods and can not figure it out or how to understand DMP files. Here is the out put I have but also will attach DMP file if anyone can read it and tell me whats up. I have about 10 Bsods in the last 4 days. Usually all different. Please also include the following information: OS - Windows 8.1, 8, 7, Vista ? WIN10Home x86 (32-bit) or x64 ? X64 What OS was originaly installed on the system? New build Is the OS an OEM version (came pre-installed on system) or full retail version (YOU purchased it from a retailer)? Full Retail Version Age of system (hardware) less then 1 week Age of OS installation - have you re-installed the OS? less then 24 hours CPU model: Ryzen 7 2700 Video Card model: MSI RX 580 8 GB Armor MotherBoard - (if NOT a laptop) Asus Prime X370-Pro Power Supply - brand & wattage (if laptop, skip this) Corsair RM750x System Manufacturer ME Exact model number (if OEM or laptop) Laptop or Desktop? Desktop 112519-8171-01.dmp
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Hello there ! it's my first post here on this forum ! ?? I have this mobo : ASUS PRIME H310M-K; I want to add one more fan to my chassis; I already have one in the back (exhaute) and that's all ; To add an other fan, i'am using a fan spliter, so i will be able to plug 2xFans in one Fan Header; The problem the total aperage of the 2 fans is : 0.24A+ 0.16A = 0.4A and in the manual i found this (Image below) : It is said that the CPU_FAN connector can't go beyond 0.5A ! So correct me if i'am wrong, pluging a Fan Spliter with 2 Fans and total of 0.4AP will be all good ? Or i have to change something concidering that 0.4A is very very close to the limits (0.5A) Ps : i don't think i can plug this one additional fan to the PSU because i don't find the Molex Adapter for it,so i guess this means that the PSU is probably using 100% of her capacity ASUS PRIME H310M-K.pdf
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ASUS X370 Prime Pro misterious pin header
menyus420 posted a topic in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
Hi! Does anyone know what this header is wired to on the Asus X370 Prime Pro? It is misteriously close to the bios chip. I can not find any documentation of it in the manuals. My buddy bricked the mobo during bios flashing and it does not post any more.I tried the cmos clear and all other options. I found a way to flash the bios with my raspberry pi 2 via the SPI interface, but i do not want to solder the chip. If that header is wired to it than i could use it to update the bios image. I already ordered an IC clamp for the chip, but it takes 3 weeks for it to arrive from china Thanks for your time! -
PC was running without problems last night and I put it to sleep mode as usual, but now the PC will not power on, whether by a keyboard press or the front panel power button on the case. I checked inside the PC and the motherboard itself, and there are no unplugged cables, nothing obviously burnt out, etc. In the bottom corner of the motherboard, near the front panel header and SATA connectors, there is an LED marked "SB_PWR", and it is lit a solid, non-blinking orange whenever the PSU is plugged in to the mains. The PC will not turn on at all, whether I use the front panel power button, shorting the power switch pins on the system panel header, or presing the internal power button on the bottom edge of the motherboard near the Q-Code display. None of the 4 POST state LEDs in the top corner of the motherboard light up, and there is nothing on the Q-Code display. What is my next step; is there a way to bring this thing back to life?
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Hi, i need advice deciding between thesee 2 psu. My antec neo eco died, and i thought it was a good power supply, but i just came to meet the psu tier lists and its below medium quality. Since im in a new rig, i wanna invest in a good psu for peace of mind. What i know is that seasonic make their psu, and the corsair one, that particular model is made by CWT. In terms of appeal, im inclined towards the corsair one, and it offer some software that seems useful (altough maybe the info that it gives is the same as hwinfo). I have read a bunch of posts and people Always recommend seasonic, but watching some unboxings i dont know... I know its superficial bus corsair seems better product.
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hey guys, i have a question, which PSU have the best performance? 1.seasonic prime 650w Gold 2.corsair RM650x Gold both price are simillar thankyou in advance
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I am writing a program in C that checks for prime numbers within a range of numbers. The program seems to be working fine, but there are a couple problems that I haven't been able to figure out. Here is the code: #include<stdio.h> main() { int counter = 0; int lower_bound, upper_bound, num_counter, i; printf("Lower bound?\n"); scanf("%d", &lower_bound); printf("Upper bound?\n"); scanf("%d", &upper_bound); num_counter = lower_bound; while (num_counter <= upper_bound) { if (num_counter <= 1) { printf("%d", num_counter); printf(" is not prime\n"); break; } else if (num_counter > 1) { for (i = 2; i <= num_counter / 2; i++) { if ((num_counter % i) == 0) { printf("%d", num_counter); printf(" is not prime\n"); break; } if ((num_counter % i) != 0) { counter = counter + 1; printf("%d", num_counter); printf(" is prime\n"); break; } } } num_counter = num_counter + 1; } printf("%d\n", counter); int num_range = upper_bound - lower_bound + 1; printf("%d\n", num_range); float prime_density = counter / num_range; printf("%f\n", prime_density); /*printf("Over the interval from "); printf("%d", lower_bound); printf(" to "); printf("%d", upper_bound); printf(" inclusive, the prime density was "); printf("%f", prime_density);*/ } The first problem I have is that the program does not like the number 3 as a lower_bound value, here is the output when I try a range from 3 to 6: Lower bound? 3 Upper bound? 6 4 is not prime 5 is prime 6 is not prime 1 4 0.000000 It will function almost perfectly but will not print out anything for 3 or add one to the counter. The next problem I have is with a float called prime_density. I have the string stuff commented out so I could try and figure out why it kept printing out 0.000000. As you can see above, the result for prime_density should be 0.25 if the counter is at 1 and the num_range is at 4, but it just prints 0.000000 every time, even with number ranges that don't include 3: Lower bound? 7 Upper bound? 10 7 is prime 8 is not prime 9 is prime 10 is not prime 2 4 0.000000 Any help or advice to fix this would be greatly appreciated!
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Hello everyone, I have ordered a Seasonic 850W Prime Titanium for my new pc, and I was wondering about its hybrid mode that keeps the fan stopped and only starts spinning at 40% load. I have had very good experiences with Seasonics, my S12 430 and S12 520 are still running smoothly and quietly after 10 years. I don't know if the fanless hybrid operation would benefit the health of the PSU and its fan in the long run, because for me the longevity is more important than being dead silent. So my question is: would the fan be more probable to last longer if it is on continuous spinning (most likely always very low rpm given the 850w power, the system will probably draw 350-400 at highest) or the hybrid mode (not spinning at all for most of the time)? I know the hybrid technology is there for a reason, to use it, but being my first fanless psu, I have concerns that when gaming, the psu could be often near the 40% threshold and keep ramping up and stopping the fan which in the long run would depreciate the fan faster than continuous operation? Thank you!
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Hi everyone, I've just joined the forums and figured I'd ask and see if anyone could help me understand something weird related to Amazon / Twitch Prime. When I tried to activate my Free Twitch Prime trial it wouldn't work for some reason, so I decided to chat with Amazon support. The 1st guy I talked to managed to get my Twitch Prime working, after charging my card 1$ (which he said would be refunded to me, I guess it was just for verification purposes). After leaving that chat, I realized that my Amazon Prime Free trial (which I still had around 20 days left of) had magically disappeared. The second or third guy I talked to (there indeed were a few of them, so I can't exactly remember) has told me that my 'US Amazon Prime Trial' has been cancelled in order for my Twitch Prime Trial to be started, since I live outside of the US. When I asked him if my activation of Twitch Prime had cancelled my Amazon Prime subscription, he replied affirmatively. This just confused me a lot, I don't understand how 1 subscription (which by the way actually depends on the other subscription) can cancel that other subscription. Also, I wonder what would have happened if I had actually paid for my Amazon Prime, since I would have effectively been robbed of my purchased digital goods.
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Hi there, I'm Seoz, and I don't recommend the Asus Prime Z370-P. After countless times where I've witnessed users on LTT ask for advice on builds, only to find that their chosen motherboard is the Asus Prime Z370-P, it's time I made a full-blown discussion. What we have in terms of motherboard features: • Two, count 'em, two, chassis fan headers • Two M.2 slots • Four SATA 6G ports • Z370 chipset Labelled below are all the flaws of the motherboard that I have experienced firsthand minus the M.2 shields because I don't use an M.2/NVMe. Having two chassis fans is a struggle when you need to fit four fans into your system, especially when one of those two chassis fan headers is slap-bang in the middle of the motherboard, come on... Secondly, the lack of VRM heatsinks is a punch in the gut. If a company like Asus is going to make a motherboard for the Z370 chipset and not include VRM heatsinks, that's when eyebrows get raised. I'll go more into this later. Lastly, there are only four SATA ports. I must clarify that this doesn't affect me in any way since I am only using a single SSD in my system, so really this point may not apply to many, and the typical user I've seen will only ever need two or three SATA slots and possibly an M.2 anyway. But for those looking for storage expandibility, you're kind of short here in the Z370-P. Onto my personal usage with this motherboard, and to be brutally honest, despite my views on it, it's been okay. I'm not a heavy overclocker and so I've only ever gone as far as 4.6GHz 1.2V before. ... But that was before my motherboard started misbehaving. I remember back when I was new to the overclock scene and had my 8600K set to 4.7GHz on a 1.25V core voltage, it felt nice. I had it running just under a week until my PC had random shutdowns and mishaps in normal usage where my PC would cut out signal, crash, blue-screen, you name it, and it was all resolved when I rolled back to 4.4GHz on 1.2V. My second experience was when I was installing my brand new Arctic Freezer 33 eSports One into my case, and I had no choice but to remove the entire motherboard out of the case for me to be able to install it. So, standard procedure, undo standoff screws, unplug cables, and grab by the edges. It was agony to take it out, I could hear it bending about and cracking. When it came to installing my new cooler, I found out that the bracket that the 33 eSports uses actually clashes with the backplate on the Z370-P, and so I had to use a lot of force to get it actually on, needless to say, it did flex a lot and audible creeks galore. I did get the cooler on eventually after the backplate mishap, and also managed to fit my motherboard back into my case. Next, I want to talk about the lights, or lack thereof. This is one of the only Asus boards to not support Asus Aura Sync lighting. it only features brutally cheap-looking orange lighting by the audio side and inside the PCIe bracket clips, it's kind of disgusting to have it on, especially when the only options are either static, breathing, or off. Needless to say, I chose the last option. The motherboard shows its value by not having the addition of Asus Aura Sync lighting and instead opting for orange LEDs... Good if you're going for an orange build I guess, but the other factors outweigh this pro anyway. I understand my views and opinions on the board may have been controversial to some degree and I may even be under fire for what I have said, but it's my motherboard, and it's my experiences. Not everything is bad about the motherboard despite what I have said about it. It's cheap (interpret that how you will) so it may make a good budget option in the right configuration, and it's also a fairly nice entry-level motherboard. I feel as if this motherboard was made for the people whom are just getting into PC building and are looking to enter the Coffee Lake chipset on a tight as budget as possible, and this is where the Z370-P comes in. In the big picture, it really isn't a bad motherboard, you get what you pay for. This motherboard was made for those whom are: a) not looking to overclock heavily - think 8350K & 8600K lightly overclocked, 8700K don't bother b) thinking of small budgets c) want a foundation to 8th-generation Intel CPUs d) don't need that much storage expansion To finish off, the Asus Prime Z370-P is a good board for those whom aren't major enthusiasts, but just want to test the waters on light overclocks and get into PC building.
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Useage - University University usage - Tbt no clue, all I know I can get by with any laptop, just need a good battery life Amount of gaming - Casual gamer Photoshop - I do use it Premier - From time to time After effects - rarely Contender 1 (Need 8Gb ram upgrade, upgrade cost within budget) Contender 2 (It's just perfect hardware wise, I just don't like the aesthetics) Contender 3 (Need ram upgrade as well but doing so blows my budget) I made a comment on all of them on this excel sheet, I would love to hear from you guys Personally I am leaning toward the ASUS one but I know the CPU on the MSI blows both of them out of the water but I dig the less gamer aesthetic on the ASUS one I am open to alternatives I concluded with the Y520 and a huge thanks to @ZM Fong for helping me decide. Didn't want to end up with a buyers remorse, so I spend a good while thinking this through. Edit 2 I got the ASUS one actually
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How good is the Seasonic Prime Ultra 650W 80+ gold certified? Also, is the prime ultra series newer than the focus+ series?