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@don_svetlio @Abdul201588 @Bananasplit_00 You asked for it so here it is: Please dont accuse me of faking it/editing I have no skill to do it neither do i have the equipment to do such things. Note that this was going to be my troll YT account, but I never used it. I had just forgotten about it.
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So I plan on building this PC as I want to join the master race and make an awesome setup. I'm just on the LTT forum to check: - If I could shave of some money on components - Compatibility - Opinions - Component choices I'm also looking to see what people think of my monitor choice because I've never seen either a ultra-wide or a 3 monitor setup so I'm unsure which one to buy. However it will be one of the two options. PCPartList: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/2dbPjX
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Im looking for the best low profile cpu cooler with 60mm or less, the cpu is a 6700k, maybe with a soft OC. something like the BIG Shuriken 2 Rev. B or CRYORIG C7 could work?
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So I'm wanting a 980ti, and have $350, but to get the other $300 I would have to sell my R9 290. What do you think I can get for it? xfx 290 DD with a white Kraken G10 and Corsair H110 with two Noctuas. Highest overclock is 1140. What do you think I could get for it?
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I built myself a new computer with an i7 5820k (4.5 GHz, 1.280 V) and a custom water cooling loop a few months ago, but I'm getting quite high temperatures (idle: 50 °C, load: 80--85 °C, measured in Intel Extreme Tuning Utility with ambient of 20 °C). With no overclock it idles at 50 °C and goes up to 60 °C when on load. I took the loop apart, checked the inside of the block and found no issues, so I built the loop back up and applied new paste, but the temperatures are still the same. The system has been very well bled, so I don't think it's an issue of trapped air. I get a couple of degrees benefit if I turn the pump up to full (it's normally at about half), but no difference from the fan speed. The temperatures seem rather high to me, even for an overclocked CPU, so is this normal or is there something wrong in my system? My loop: D5 vario pump + 100 ml reservoir (EK) Triple 120 mm radiator (45 mm thick) with EK Vardar F4-120ER fans Dual 140 mm radiator (80 mm thick) with EK Vardar F3-140ER fans EKWB Supremacy EVO acetal PS. Yes, I know I have a lot of radiator space for just cooling a CPU, but I'm planning to add GPUs when I can afford it.
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Can I overclocked my i5-4690k with H87 motherboard? Can I use a i5-4460 with a GTX 750Ti OC? Thanks ! ! !
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I had a first gen i7 (920) that was running the stock clock of 2.6 paired up with 12gb of ram and a reference gtx 770. I was getting anywhere from 90-250 Fps in csgo and I need to have at least a stable 144+ for my monitor. I have since upgraded to a gtx 970 evga and overclocked my CPU to 3.2, but I still dip below 100 from time to time. It doesn't seem right to me... with that hardware I should be able to push that just fine. I'm playing in 1080-1920 everything low except shadows with 2xmsaa. Do my results seem right?
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I have a GeForce Gtx 660Ti OC edition 3gb gpu and i need help to see if i should upgrade
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Hello everyone. So I recently got the Sapphire Radeon R9 280 and am waiting to get a few cables I need for it. In the mean time I thought I'd ask the question if my setup will be enough for Star Citizen My build: AMD A-10 6800k @ 4.1GHz Non-OC'd Sapphire Radeon R9 280 OC Edition - No additional overclocking Gigabyte GA-F2A78M-D3H 1x120mm front fan + 1x80mm exhaust fan Comment below what you think I can get out of Star Citizen in graphics settings and resolution. Thanks!
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Hi, I'm new to PC gaming after many years been on console. I brought some pc parts a couple of weeks ago to build my first system and I was happy with the performance however after watching some of Linus's videos on Youtube I fancied trying out overclocking myself. Here are some of the parts which I am running: KFA2 GeForce GTX 970 OC Silent "Infin8 Black Edition" 4096MB GDDR5 PCI-Express Graphics Card Intel Core i7-4790K 4.00GHz (Devil's Canyon) Socket LGA1150 Processor Corsair Vengeance RED 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 PC3-12800C10 1600Mhz Dual Channel Kit Samsung 250GB 850 EVO SSD 2.5" SATA 6Gbps Corsair Builder Series CX 750W Modular '80 Plus Bronze' Power Supply Asus B85-PLUS Intel B85 (Socket 1150) DDR3 ATX Motherboard I also brought a fancy Corsair gaming mouse and keyboard because I thought it would make me invincible on games lol but it really doesn't help it turns out. Anyway yesterday I brought the Corsair H100i so I could try out some overclocking, didn't fancy it on the stock intel cooler. I have the chip now running at 4.9ghz (see screenshot below). The PC is temperature when running AIDA64 for five minutes at 4.9ghz is 83c. Is this safe? When it's idle it run's at around 29 / 30c. To get it running stable I had to ramp up the voltage to 1.315. So the main questions I really have are; Is the temperature of 80c safe when the CPU is under 100% load, I imagine when I'm playing games it's not going to be stressing it that much? is it ok to have the volts running at 1.315 What do people recommend overclocking the i7-4790k to?
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Hi, just a quick question, which motherboard should I choose the Z97-AR or the pro gamer? I am also open to any other suggestions in the same price range. Thanks Jakob
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Hey guys, I've got this question. Is the 50$ difference worth the performance difference between EVGA 4GB 960 SSC and FTW for a new build ? And would a 970 be better Bank For Buck from either of those ?
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Hello everyone, This is my review of my monitor, the Samsung S24D590L, or S24 as it shall be called hence forth. I have owned this monitor for just shy of a month now and feel it is now appropriate to write a review of it, but first a bit of a back story as to why i bought this monitor When I was building my computer and gathering parts on Amazon, I bought a different monitor, the AOC E2460SH, which I still own and use (I'm using it right now). I knew it was a TN screen but it didn't bother me when buying it because it had such good reviews. So as the parts started arriving I decided to test out the monitor with my laptop to check for any dead pixels. there were none, but due to not having my desk yet, I was at a slightly higher angle to the monitor and could hardly see anything. I knew then I would have to get another monitor of VA grade or better for better colours and angles. While my brother was buying his system at PC World because he didn't want me to put it together for him, he went to get his system and the monitor that came bundled was out of stock, so he chose the Samsung S24 under my recommendation after being put on the spot for 30 seconds as the sales rep was pressuring him to get a more expensive monitor. I convinced him other wise after just reading the specs that were on display, The sales rep even gave into me as I knew what I was saying and he had to agree. It had a PLS Screen, great for colour reproduction, It had dual HDMI so he could use his console and PC, A Matte screen for no glares, 1080p, a nice upgrade from 768p TV and was only £20 more expensive than the monitor that would have came with the system. Speaking of price, this monitor cost me just shy of £150 (£148.99 I think) or $230 USD, $290 CAD, (please note these conversions include the UK VAT, so take 20% off the most relevant currency to you) So my brother bought that monitor and that was the end of that. As he was loading his system into the car, I went back into the shop and bought the same monitor for myself as I liked the specification of it so much. So I get home and set it up. Review kicks in here. Once set-up and under normal house lights compared to the show ones in the shop, the colour was still excellent as were the angles. And compared to my AOC monitor, it blew it out of the water with the screen quality. The one thing I really disliked with this monitor was the stand and still do a month later. It has no height adjust, swivel or pivot, no adjustments what so ever. I thought this wasn't going to be such an issue as I was intending to buy a VESA monitor arm to mount the monitor. But when I went to check the measurements, I quickly discovered there wasn't any. No VESA support at all. So to support my S24 at an angle that I find pleasing, I have to support it with the center channel speakers of my Logitech Z506 speaker set. I dislike the fact that the bezel is glossy, albeit a slim bezel. I haven't removed the plastic wrap yet, but most probably will in the future and then it will be finger print city. The OSD (On-screen Display) is really good and easy to navigate with the use of a little joystick rather than buttons like some other monitors. It is sub-divided into categories for ease of use and is fast and functional with nothing fancy over the top. PLS vs TN - Oh my God, never again am I going TN. I was doing some basic colour correction in Photoshop for a college project on my AOC monitor and then dragged the image over to the S24. I had to re-correct the colour as what I thought was black was a grey on the AOC. Being a PLS panel, i decided to check for any light bleed and Im happy to report on my monitor, there was next to none on a pure black background, but this can vary between units. UPDATE: There is a picture in this spoiler Gaming This is where I thought the S24 would suffer due to using a PLS panel. it is actually a decent response time, noting spectacular like 1ms on the AOC but still admiral at less than 6ms. And due to the better colours you can actually make out details in the shadows which you would most likely have missed unless you knew they were there. The Batman Arkham series makes a good point of this, while also looking visually stunning being super-sampled, talk about this later. Being a PLS there is some motion blur but nothing to bad and it doesn't really affect me unlike virtual motion blur put in by games, which I turn off as soon as I see the option, except for Crysis. Super-sampling. I touched upon this in the gaming section above. I mentioned that Batman Arkham series looks wonderful being super-sampled. Baring in mind I use an Nvidia GTX 970, so if you have a Radeon card, results may differ. At first I wasn't expecting this monitor to super-sample that well since it is limited to just using HDMI. So just to try it I entered 2.5K (2560x1440) and it worked. So naturally my curiosity was intrigued. i wanted to see how far I could go. I managed to get the monitor to use a resolution of 3K (3200x1800) which turned out to be stable in games. I tried going for 4K UHD (3840x2160) but it was unstable and kept crashing my graphics driver, so 3K will have to do, and being on a small-ish screen of 23.8 inches at about a foot distance, I don't mind. So to me, this monitor super-samples like a champ. There is a picture in this spoiler. Overclocking Yes, you read that sub-title correctly. I remembered Linus talking about monitor overclocking back when the GTX Titan first came out. So in the driver i decided to give it a go. I had no idea if the monitor or GPU was capable of overclocking a monitor. So at first I entered 65Hz and tested it, and success, it worked. So increased the Hz by 5 at a time and managed to get to a stable overclock of 75Hz on a 60Hz panel. I know this can reduce the lifetime of the panel, but I don't really mind. I only use this monitor profile for when gaming as it can have adverse effects in other tasks such as watching videos, which become all copy and stutter all the time. I tested the OC by opening the game I had close to hand, Minecraft, cranked the details BUT turned V-Sync on, and what do you know, it V-sunk to 75Hz, no crashes or any thing irregular happened. There is a picture in this spoiler. That brings me to the end of my review of the Samsung S24D590L. There are things I like and hate, so to recap, I Liked The Panel type - PLS Adequate Response time Decent size screen The ability to support Super-sampling and Overclocking Slim bezel No crappy internal speakers I hated No monitor adjustments or VESA compatibility No display port or DVI, just HDMIx2 and 1 D-Sub Glossy Bezel. Suggestions for improvements Fix everything mentioned above Possibly add cable management Final conclusion in 1 sentence: A great monitor for the price, albeit with some minor faults that could be fixed in later revisions. Thanks for reading my review of the Samsung S24D590L 23.8 inch PLS Monitor. This is my first review so any tips for improvements are highly wanted.
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Hi. Both of my monitors, mainly in cs:go, sometimes just go black for a few seconds before turning back on like nothing happened. My gpu also sometimes has kernel errors. The kernel errors are in Battlefield 4 and CS:GO. In CS, the game fixes itself and i can keep playing, but in BF4, I have to ctrl+alt+del to force it closed. Both my CPU and GPU are overclocked.
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Okay, lets get straight to the point. I have games such as; Arma 2, Arma 3, Battlefield 3 & 4, CoD Advanced Warfare (Don't judge me, it's good fun!) and other first person shooter games. What I want to know is, is my CPU (heavily) bottlenecking my GPU when it comes to playing these kinds of games? My FPS is extremely unstable, going up and down between 20 and 90 FPS all the time. and it's making these kind of games unplayable and I just want to have fun, damn it! My CPU is an AMD FX-4100 Quad Core Processor at 4.5GHz (I've had it for just under 3 years now) and my graphics card is a Palit GeForce GTX 770 2GB (Had it just under 1 year). If you think my CPU is really effecting my GPU that badly, what would be your suggestions? (As cheap as possible! (UK Price)) Thanks in advance everyone
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I am going to be building my first pc soon and I was wondering how many case fans I need. I am going to get an msi r9 270 and a g3258 both of which I will overclock. I am going to get a hyper 212x to cool the g3258. I have the cooler master n500 case which comes with 2 fans - how many more should I get?
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I was wondering if there was any possible way to eyefinity with 3 vga monitors on the 7790 from asus. I just need 3 monitors hooked up for school and doesnt need to be in eyefinity as much as just to have 3 working displays. The monitors are Acer AL1916W and they all have only VGA input and my 7790 has a DVI-D, DVI-I, DP, & HDMI and i can buy adapters i just dont know which ones i need. Thanks for helping, anything does.
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I was wondering whether I should get the Zotac 780 Ti OC edition in SLi, with having around £200 left for peripherals or get an overclocked EVGA 780 Ti Kingpin edition and have around £500 left for peripherals? Will the price of the Kingpin edition go down after the 900 series' release? Thanks. P.S. My CPU is a 4790k and my motherboard is Asus ROG VII Hero.
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I've just recently overclocked my AMD FX 4100 at 4.6 Ghz Stable. I am using a standard AMD CPU cooler fan with Idle temps ranging between 25-35, Under a heavy work load am reaching temps between 60-70. This has been mine first overclock & i was wondering am i pushing the CPU abit too much? also how much performance boost would i get from CPU water cooler?. [Temperatures are in Celsius] Many Thanks Hippie. [sorry for any Grammar/Spelling]
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Hi all, I'm looking to get myself a pair of shiny new GTX 970's soon. I want to add them to a new build I have planned. This new build will have a custom water cooling loop, and so I want to add two EK water blocks to these two GTX 970's. I've read there's some potential backwards compatibilities with GTX 670 WB's but after having a dialogue with a EK rep on Facebook recently, he told me they're due to release GTX 970 specific WB (full cover). This is one they're working on at the moment.... What I'm keen to know is, I've read dozens and dozens of reviews recently of all the latest after market GTX 970's from EVGA, MSI, Gigabyte etc and all their factory overclocked versions and how they perform when pushed further with Afterburner or Precision. However, as I'm going to be adding a water block to my 970's does it matter what type of 970 I go for? Will I find it advantageous to get a pair of EVGA FTW 970's or Gigabyte G1 970's at £300 a piece, and then removing their prized and coolers and boosting their pre-overclocked speeds further. OR, do I go for some Reference/non-factory clocked cards (@£230-250 each) and just remove the coolers and OC them with my water blocks on them that way? Any advice here is appreciated.
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For years folks have been asking me to do a Hackintosh build guide. I've always put it off because 1) It's a lot of work and 2) I never cared to own a machine that runs OSX. Well I solved problem number 1 by having @Slick do it, and I soved problem number 2 by.... Okay I didn't solve that, but whatever we built one I'm going to list out the components as well as provide a source or two for where you can get them I can't tell you where to buy this stuff, but I do lean towards NCIX for the Canadians (and International viewers if their pricing and shipping costs work out for you) because they're my bros, and for Americans, Brits, and a couple other regions, the Amazon links below are affiliate links, so of course every little bit helps CORE COMPONENTS CPU: Core i7 4930K (overclocked) NCIX: http://bit.ly/1speuHe Amazon: http://georiot.co/4EaE SSD (optional): Samsung 840 Evo NCIX: http://bit.ly/1y0rvrh Amazon: http://georiot.co/tZw Motherboard: Gigabyte X79-UP4 NCIX: http://bit.ly/1o9N4EX Amazon: http://georiot.co/SCs Case: NZXT H440 NCIX: http://bit.ly/1AQu4Aq Amazon: http://georiot.co/10Ly Video Card: Reference GeForce GTX 780 NCIX: http://bit.ly/1v5g1qt Amazon: http://georiot.co/75d RAM: 64GB G.Skill 2400MHz Quad Channel DDR3 Memory NCIX: http://bit.ly/1ontLmR Amazon: http://georiot.co/3Iek Operating System: OSX Mavericks Power Supply: Corsair AX860i with white sleeved cable option NCIX: http://bit.ly/1s8ESE7 Amazon: http://georiot.co/1Iz0 Cooling Components CPU Heatsink: Noctua NH-U14S NCIX: http://bit.ly/1nngqKW Amazon: http://georiot.co/tK2 System Fans: Noctua NF-F12 NCIX: http://bit.ly/1ow4xqO Amazon: http://georiot.co/106J
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The cpu I have is an AMD FX-6300 that I have overclocked to 4.1 Ghz. Would this bottleneck 2 660 tis in sli? If so how much? I will be playing Battlefield and Crysis 3
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Could somebody please tell me the difference between these two cards: EVGA SuperClocked w/ ACX Cooling 02G-P4-2774-KR GeForce GTX 770 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 SLI Support Video Card EVGA GeForce GTX 770 DUAL SuperClocked 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 SLI Support w/ EVGA ACX Cooler Video Card 02G-P4-2776-KR The only difference i can see is that one has "DUAL" in the name, and has the EVGA symbols on the fans. Other than that, the specs seem the same. Planning on buying one or the other TONIGHT, but i want to know the difference first! Thanks
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Hey! I'd like to know how much a fx-8350 consumes power when overclocked (watercooled). Some bit-tech article said 215W @ stock, 360W when overclocked. Can it really be that much? (The article: http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/11/06/amd-fx-8350-review/7 ) Some calculator gave me much more optimistic results, about 200W when overclocked to 5 GHz with 1,5 V core voltage (I was just randomly putting some values there). I'm comparing fx-8350 and i5-4670K. With two graphics cards (R9-290's) I may need a 1000W power supply if I'll go AMD. That would cost quite a bit more and it might be worth considering intel just because of the lower power consumption. Oh, and I know that we don't know the power consumption of the new Radeon cards yet but I'd get 10% discount for PC parts now, so it would be handy to buy some of the parts already. I'm going to build new PC when the Radeon cards are out. Thanks for any help!
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Hey guys, I've finally have gotten around to posting some pictures of my current gaming rig. I also have a new found respect for those of you who sleeve cables, because my patience was low and I had some very Painful fingers by the end of just 2 mobo cables and a pci-e cable. So without further ado, here you go! CPU: Intel core i5-3570k Motherboard: MSI Z77 MPOWER GPU: MSI GTX 660 Ti PE x2 in SLI Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB Power-supply: Seasonic x750 with individually sleeved cables Case: Cooler Master Storm Stryker Cooling: H100i Storage: 256GB Samsung 840 Pro SSD and a 1TB Western Digital HDD Before sleeving and paint Pre-paint Cleaning heatsink Post-paint After paint with lights! After paint no lights After Sleeves "left" "Center" "Right" After Sleeving, with gray mobo cable Re-sleeved with white Lights out!!
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