Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'oled'.
-
AU Optronics have shown a 32 inch OLED monitor in a video and LG released their monitor this year that was for creators. I believe that gaming versions are coming, maybe next year. Linus did a video about the troubles with owning an OLED as a monitor, do you think some of these things will be addressed when these monitors come out?
-
Hello there, I need the suggestion for the best HDMI 2.1 cable for my LG CX48 OLED tv and RTX 3090. My Requirements are : Length must be 30 feet 4k 120hz HDR I have a confusion about the latency of the cable because of the length. This amount of cable length will cause any issue? Please suggest to me the brands or specific models of the cable that will serve my purpose. Thanks -
Is it possible to upgrade the 144hz LCD in my laptop to the higher end OLED? in other words, if I wanted to, could I purchase an OLED panel that is for this year and model of Razer laptop and replace my LCD with an OLED if I so wished? I have searched Reddit, Google, iFixit, Razer's Forums and haven't found really any interested at all in this topic. Any suggestions? I've got a Razer Blade 15” Advanced (2019) RZ09-02887e92 -
So I've bought a new Asus laptop recently. It's a Vivobook X513UA-M5100UA, an early adoption of budget OLED on ultrabook, China exclusive tho. Here is its specs: - Ryzen 7 5700U 1.8GHz with iGPU - 16GB DDR4@3200Hz dual channel - 512GB NVMe SSD (about 3500 read, 2800 write) - 15.6" 1080p OLED display, VESA HDR500 True black. ΔE~1.2 - 42Wh battery B31N1842 - Wifi 6 and backlit keyboard - Lots of ports, HDMI, 2x USB A 2.0, 1x USB A 3.2 gen 1, 1x USB C 3.2 gen 1, TF reader, audio, and DC charging. All of this for $800, quite a bargain. I do love this machine, but there are some things I'm concerned about. 1. Can I extend the battery capacity by replacing the standard one with a different pack? Because battery life is not that great. From my experience, just casually watching Youtube at 50% brightness and a headphone plugged in cost 25% in 40mins. (Low performance, quiet mode). I haven't opened the bottom panel yet (toolkit is on the way). But since this machine is basically a Vivobook 15, I assume its internal design is close to other Vivobook 15 like X513, F513, M513. They have same battery model, same ports layout, etc... These laptops have an empty 2.5 drive bay which I'm not going to use. So do you guys know if there is any larger battery that fit. Since I really need better battery life for school and having empty space inside is a waste. (I thought about carrying a power bank, but it's a pain to charge so many devices and x2 battery wear on everything.) 2. Is there any way to undervolt AMD's mobile APU? So I thought of this to increase battery life, but no luck on research yet. As far as I know, the voltage regulator is locked (not sure if it's hardware or BIOS level) and no software can access it. The only choice is to use Ryzen controller which limits TDP, not undervolting. Had anyone got luck with this? (Btw, it gets hot, 95°C. Guess repasting is necessary) 3. For some reasons, my laptop still charge over the set limit in MyAsus setting! I'm concerned about battery life span, since laptop's battery tends to worn out very quickly (due to high CPU heat output I guess). So I limit its maximum charge when I don't have to bring it with me. But sometimes it still charges over the limit I set. I did search for this problem on Google, but saw no result or people talk about it. So if anyone had this problem and managed to fix it. Please help me. (I don't trust customer care, they might ask to inspect my machine then proceed to replace random parts and charge me even if the problem persists). That's all for now. Thank you for reading this :>> -
I just got myself the Arctis Pro Wireless and was very exited after looking at a bunch of reviews and tests. When I plugged it all inn and started testing it out I noticed alot of problems with the base station. Normally the wheel in front of the box is suppose to scroll trough the menu and clicking the wheel will go into the menu. But mine instead goes into a menu when scrolling, making it impossible to actually go into the different setting. I also started reading up on it and found noone with similar problems. Am I doing it wrong? or is it just broken. Also found out there is tons of other problems with this base station after reading a bunch of complaints. Anyone got experience with this headset that could tell me if im either doing something wrong or if I should just issue a refund.
-
Hello everyone! The past few months, I have been trying to decide whether to go for a 77" OLED or a 100" projector for my home theater room and I would really appreciate your input on this matter. To bring you up to date, I am repurposing a big room and part of it (approximately 4.5Wx3L meters) will be used as a home theater with a proper 5.1.4 Auro 3D sound system. I was lucky enough to find speakers that sounded perfect for me but when it was time to decide on my video solution things weren't as black and white as I thought they would be. There were a lot of people telling me that nothing can beat the immersion of a huge screen and then there are those who just can't have enough of the OLED perfect picture. Since I couldn't get a definite answer, I managed to find a Hi-Fi store with a home theater room and arranged a demo. The experience was.... Incomplete to say the least... The projector used was an epson TW9400 (6050UB) which was perfect and the content was... drum-roll... a netflix Grey's anatomy type series in glorious 1080p full of non-action packed grey, and some time a little bit of colored scenes. When I asked for some 4K HDR content I was told that this is the most realistic demo since most people use streaming services instead of 100gb 4K movies, which unfortunately (or fortunately) is not the case for me. In simpler words, they probably didn't have any 4K material for a proper demo. My first impression was underwhelming due to the hype I was building up for the WOW factor of the 100"+ screens but I just didn't feel what other people on forums were describing. Don't get me wrong, the huge screen was nice so I don't know if the picture quality was what made me feel underwhelmed. Then there is OLED. My parents own a 55" OLED so I was able to test it thoroughly and I was also able to demo a 77" OLED since a friend owned one. The picture is unparalleled and those colors, inky blacks and shadow details make my eyes happy! The problem is.... The size I won't even bother talking about the 55", anything more than 2 - 2.2 meters away from the screen greatly reduced the immersion and that's on the 77" OLED. So, after spending countless hours online, watching reviews, looking for answers on home theater forums and even seeing both a projector and an OLED up close, I am still confused and indecisive about what to choose for my home theater. Which means back to square one... I will be using my home theater mainly for movies, then cinematic series and gaming and I am looking for both an immersive experience but a decent picture too for the content I will be watching. My budget is around 4 grand so NO Linus, I know I should go for a micro-led but I do not have enough organs to buy it Thank you in advance
-
I’m looking at maybe the BX in a 55 inch size, but I’m kind of concerned about burn in on a $1500(+500 or so for warranty?) T.V. I'm also looking at the 900H or 950H. I am undecided if I “need„ 2.1 for a tv I will probably keep for a while, the 2x better HDR of the 950 for $200 more is very tempting. -
Hi everyone, I’m sure you’ve seen this pop up a few times with people having green tint issues etc but I wanted to do a check and see how many have noticed it due to them having it severely and how many don’t know they have it. When I got my phone one of the first things I did was check that the display was fine, however a few weeks later I have realised it is not. For people who believe there screen is fine and has no issues, try turning your brightness all the way down and go to a pitch black room. Go into settings then software update and turn your phone horizontally and look at the grey bar that says automatic updates. If you see any gradient, you have a panel issue. Try this both ways horizontally also as mine has a tint only on the notch side of the screen. Another test is to try and black screen video off YouTube. If you can see any light on your screen in a pitch black room, you have a screen issue (must be done at low brightness/minimum): A final test is you can use this YouTube video to test different greys which will show a greenish tint on them if you have a display issue (must be done at low brightness/minimum): In my case, my screen only tints green on greys below 10% brightness on the top half of the screen and gradually fades and my panel also shows light on a pitch black screen on the upper half at any brightness. Make sure the room is pitch black when doing the tests. I have also noticed my display flickers between off and green when showing a black image on the display. I have tested 4 other people’s displays on 12 Pro Max’s all of which are showing the symptoms to varying degrees. I have no idea why no YouTuber has shed light on it as one search on google and you can see it’s plaguing iPhone 12’s right now. I’m interested to see the responses. Thanks -
I think there is a issue with screen burn in on the iPhone 12. I am a heavy user with my phone, but I have only had it for a week and there is already a issue with screen burn in. I can already see the bottom icons of social media that i use a lot. I have heard of the other issues with the iPhone screens, but it was apparent when I updated my phone to a beta software. 3 weeks into a phone should not have these issues, three years is okay. i spent way to much money to see a plus on the bottom of my screen
-
Helloo, Its been 2 months now since i bought the LG CX Oled and i want to learn to calibrate and doing it properly. I've done hours of research trying to find tutorials, mostly on YouTube, and i have only found one proper stream that is only giving a glance of monitor calibration. Done by Colour.Training and the stream was doing an overview of the course that they will offer on their site...which is almost 2 months late from when they said it would be up in the stream. Now this guy from Colour.Training in that stream gave a proper education. But all the rest of the tutorials are crap, literally crap and half-assed. Only one other I've found which does an almost full tutorial but he is doing it half-assed, like alright these stats are good enough so I'm not going to bother to explain what to do in order to improve these stats and the other big thing is that they don't go over which TV-settings to use. So I'm reading and just finding information all over the place about the probe and not really understanding all what is explained. Like i was sure that i was going for the X-rite i1 Display Pro. But later on i found information that the colour isn't proper set up in the beginning and you need to do profiling? This is one of the things I don't quite understand what i need to do. So my questions follows, 1. What is that i need to prepare with the X-rite probe before i can properly calibrate the CX? 2. Can i use a USB-stick or Nvidia Shield PRO to output 4k signal? 3. What are the recommended TV-settings to use for different types for example shooting games, immersive RPG racing games, SDR / HDR, Netflix, Other streaming platforms. 4. Can anyone link me to a proper guide/explanation? 5. Is there someone reading this post who has ISF-certificate whom I could ask questions to and learn from?
-
since game mode has worse color accuracy, I am wondering if I can easily improve it without spending hundreds of dollars? I need game mode since it easily feels the best while gaming, plus it has VRR and 4k 120fps doesn't have to be perfect, I just want to improve it. is improving it even worth it?
-
Please help me decide! HP Envy 15-ep OLED or Razer Blade Base OLED After more hours of research than I care to mention I have decided to get my first laptop since school (15 years ago). I build, fix and mod desktops for fun but with 2020's limited supply of new CPU/GPUs I decided to buy a laptop to hold me over until I can upgrade my desktop. I am an allaround user (CAD, programming, video editing, 3d graphics) and enjoy gaming and movies/TV shows to relax but plan to use my desktop to keep my PC master race badge. I want: - OLED for watching media, - Solid CPU for productivity (both have an i7 10750H), - Decent GPU for on the go gaming (HP 2060mq 6gb vs Razer 2070mq 8gb), - both base 16gb ram, 512gb M.2 with second open M.2, quality aluminum body, 4k OLED. Considerations: - HP: couple hundred cheeper, clean looks, less noise, cooler running, open bios, touch screen, large battery, - Razer: better GPU with 2gb more ram, gaming pedigree, RGB, no bloteware, top speakers, - HP: can't disable on board graphics, downward speakers, - Razer: locked bios, no 1440p, no touch screen, fewer driver updates, questionable service, custom power brick that blocks USB port, runs hot, small battery, Questions?: How do the OLED panels compare, touch pads, speakers, keyboards, resale value retention, software/drivers, longevity, Conclusion: I am leaning towards the HP due to the locked bios and no 1440p on the Razer but I like the faster GPU with 2gb more ram for the future. Please give us your answers, thoughts, experience, likes, dislikes so I and others can make the best choice for one's needs. Did I miss any other competing laptops in the $2k range with similar specs? Other than the MacBook 15 at a higher price lower specs or the Dell XPS 15 OLED at a lower price lower specs? The 1650 Ti in the Dell is below my desired power and I won't buy Dell or MSI and I am not into Macs but others may. Thank you in advance LTT community! -
Well I'm finally in the process of moving to my dream town- West End Vancouver BC. I'm a Canadian returning home from the US where I currently live in a shoe box with my wonderful wife. We are very excited for our new place because it will be comparatively MUCH larger than where we live. We are dually excited to purchase our first TV together! I'm thinking 4k OLED. The Lord of the Rings 4k is what comes to mind as the first thing I want to watch on my new TV. I absolutely do NOT, however, want to deal with a "smart" TV, for reasons I won't go into now. Are there any good non-smart 4k OLED TVs out there? I really don't have a size or price in mind at this point, so pretty much any recommendation would be very helpful right now! I'm just in the research phase at this point and have plenty of time to settle on a specific model. Things that come to mind which I will potentially connect to the TV are: -Definitely a Nintendo Switch -Definitely a laptop -Possibly a Raspberry Pi -Possibly a Chrome Cast device -Possibly a PS5 Thanks in advance for any responses!
-
so i used my rog phoen for around 2 years now and now the menuebuttons and even the word youtube is burnt on my screen! what can i do to fix that! i know oleds have burn ins but can you maybie replace the screen or shoudl i look into new phones! woudl repalcing the screen be worth it?
-
How does a HD CRT tv compare to today's HDR OLED TVs, maybe even high-end Plasma, and 8K TVs? Brightness output, contrast, color, and motion performance. Compare from HDR sources such as 4K Blu-ray, streaming, and gaming, also from lower fidelity upscaled sources and older media. Could be a good video for @LinusTech to do. Would love to know how an HD CRT tv or monitor stacks up against modern TV tech. It would be cool to see some discussion about what you lose (like HDR and higher resolution support) vs what you gain (no need to upscale, better motion resolution, no input lag) -
Hi, installed ryujin 360 on my new build, and oled display on it is blinking every 3-4 seconds. Somebody knows how to fix it? (Armoury Crate version is last)
-
So today I decided to compare my RTX 3080 FE to my friend's and we quickly noticed that his GPU was running a fair bit quicker than mine. At first glance we thought it was just temperatures and throttling that were causing the difference in performance, but we wanted to be thorough so we both set our voltage to 0,875 and frequency to 1950Mhz using MSI Afterburner and reran the benchmarks. We also put the fans to 100% just to eliminate any throttling (GPU's ran at max 65c). With both cards running at the exact same speed and with the exact same drivers I was still seeing lower performance scores in both 3DMark Timespy and Basemark (both DX12 & Vulkan). I tried reinstalling my drivers and removing Geforce Experience, but it didn't help; I was still seeing performance around 10% slower. So, then I decided to try running my LG CX48 at 4K 60Hz instead of 4K 120Hz, and lo' and behold I was suddenly getting the same performance as he was! The benchmarks were all run at the same settings and resolution (only thing I changed was my display resolution and refresh rate). 3D Mark Timespy DX12: - His GPU: 17 220 - My GPU (4K 120Hz): 15 800 - My GPU (4K 60hz): 17 270 - My GPU (1080p 60Hz): 18 220 Basemark VULKAN: - His GPU: 18 727 - My GPU (4K 120Hz): 16 110 - My GPU (4K 60Hz): 18 860 - My GPU (1080p 60Hz): 18 647 Any idea what could be causing this? As soon as I enable 120Hz at any resolution my performance drops => I've never seen a GPU whose performance has been affected by the resolution and refresh rate of the display before. This is true for both 10 bit and 8 bit alike. Is this an HDMI 2.1 issue or just an issue with the display in question? I'm thinking it could have something to do with DSC (not sure if this affects performance or not). My TV: LG CX48 OLED using the latest 03.11.25 firmware (the one that fixes the Chroma 4:4:4 and G-Sync issues). My driver version: 456.71 WHQL Maybe someone using the same GPU or 3090 and CX TV could try to verify the performance drop I'm seeing?
-
Viewing distance: about 2.15m(7.05ft) to the center of the screen. Couch won't be here before next year. Position might chage but that is the current setup. At that distance I came up with between 50" and 55". I personally don't like overblown colors but from what I have seen calibration can fix it to, good enough for 90% of people. There seem to be some other issues like tone mapping that I don't understand yet. Also my understanding is that most of the dumb "at review/release time"-issues with this one have been fixed in firmware updates since. Is that the case? Any first hand experience? I have little to no experience with any modern TV OS. People seem to hate TizenOS. I am considering throwing an Apple TV 4K or a Chromecast 4K at it and never touching it beyond initial setup. Will I be bothered? Other options include an LG OLED55C27LA for 1199€ but that is a full class below the Samsung S95B Tier. I know it should be better compared to the LG G2 but those are at 1550€ out of my budget comfort zone and as the reviews seem to suggest superior in dark scenes but vastly inverior in color performance. I think I about understand the implications of WOLED vs QD-OLED. I don't yet understand Sony's lineup. The A95k is at a ridiculous 2.4k€. Sony XR-55A80K for 1199€ or Sony XR-55A80J for 999€. Philips: I like Ambilight and they support both Dolby Vision and HDR10+ which is a big plus. Both the 55OLED707 and 856 are at about 1250€ so technically in range. My flat shares Phlips year old 4k LCD hasn't seen security updates for android in years and takes 30s+ to boot which are both big nonos for me. Also Panasonic which a rep tried talking me into but couldn't explain why. I am worried about the downside of "only" having HDR10+ and not Dolby Vision. Most reviews I have found have done an attrocious job of acctually explaining significant differences downsides, let alone make a comparison what happens on fall back to HDR10. Anything I should understand about what I am getting myself into with an S95B? -
I've been looking around the internet for a 24 inch OLED monitor and I can't seem to find any maker that produces them. It's either one of those large 30+ inch monitors or tiny 13-15 inch monitors. Is it because 24 inch monitors are not high in demand? Or is there some sort of limitation that prevents makers from making 24 inch OLED displays--let alone 27 inch OLED monitors; those also seem difficult to come by.
-
Hello all. I'm on the market to get myself a new TV as my current Sony 4K LCD panel is struggling more and more with HDR content. I've done some extensive research in regards to OLED vs QLED vs QD-OLED and my current conclusion is QD-OLED is theoretically best for color accuracy, brightness and longevity. But LG has made great improvements in the OLED category to boost brightness peaks and longevity. Also the prices are night and day. The features however when comparing on general websites are essentially the same, only LG is sticking to their doubtful WebOS while Sony has only 2 HDMI 2.1 inputs (both issues are of little importance to me) Power consumption are samy as well and sound is a non-factor since I have a home theater setup. Something to take into account however is my TV is facing a window and it's really not working out right now. I believe a good dose of brightness would mitigate our issue (we're not planning to relocate the TV setup and our solution is to just close the lids when things are impossible to watch). But I think both TVs are toe to toe in terms of brightness aren't they? Do you guys have any other argument to tip the balance between the two? Right now price is the biggest factor to me but I remain open-minded. Thanks for your input.
-
Hello Everyone, New to these forums, I was wondering what you guys, think about Color Temperature in Gaming ( Playstation, Xbox, Pc) Particulary on a TV (Oled in my case) Every expert in youtube Recommends Warm 2 or Warm 50 And I just find it sliglty off, more yellow than its supposed to be. By default the LG C2 is in Neutral Color temperature at 0, but people recommend going all the way to warm 50. Just curious if LMG talked about this and also what is your preference. Thanks!
-
Hey, so i've been sitting on a acer XB273KP for the last 2 years, but it died so im getting that refundedn, anyhow im looking into the PG42UQ from Asus and i was wondering, if anyone has one and could send me some upclose images to show the pixeldensity "in reality" rather than the specs, as im easily bothered by small details like that. thanks in advance.
-
Hello Friends, Anyone with an LG C2 can share some insight on using it as a PC monitor? Does it work for gaming? Any input lag? Screen tearing? I'm hoping to connect it with my RX 6900 XT since it's Freesync compatible? Any weird issues on long term use? I read somewhere it has annoying fan noise? Does it run well on 4k? Is it worth investing in? Or are there new OLED displays coming up that might be better since this is essentially a TV? Thanks!
-
Can anybody help me? I have a Dell inspiron 13 5301 which I bought a while ago and I have always wanted to replace the display although I lack the knowledge of compatibility to follow through with it so I thought someone might be able to help me. My laptop has a matte IPS panel that is dull and just bad overall and I have been wanting to replace it but I struggled to find a replacement. Here are the screen's specs: 1920x1080 250 nits peak brightness 60Hz IPS So I did some googling and couldn't find anything until I stumbled across a notebookcheck.net review of it where they have a usefull weight and size comparison info-graph thingy and a laptop that had practically the same dimesions and, as I later found out, an OLED panel! I am not sure though whether the display is compatible as there are tonnes of different connectors that manufacturers use but with my limited knowledge I assume that it is also a 30-pin connector because its 1080p... Would it be compatible? I've been unable to find any actual pictures of the zenbook's connector so I'm not sure but if someone has more experience than me and could let me know that would be great! my laptops connector the OLED laptops connector the connector on OLED back panel
-
I am curious of the reasons, both verified and speculative, as to why there is a lack of more reasonable sized 4K OLED “gaming” monitors on the consumer market. Personally I’d not want to go beyond 27 inches. What I’d personally look for in an OLED is native 120Hz and with BFI. The less motion blur the better. I would pay a lot of money for this if only it existed.
.JPG.abf498c0e5c772fabc556bab47fa997f.JPG)
