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Hello everyone, I am looking for some advice on which among the two thermal interface materials are better for my laptop. The specs are Ryzen 7 with Rtx 3060 130W. I had purchased this in 2021 and now I am using with a 1440p 165hz LG monitor as a display with a cooling pad. Since it has been 3 years I thought it might be time for a thermal paste change also since I started using the 1440p screen the laptop is running at 80-87C depending on the weather in India. This is my first time trying to repaste a laptop. So should I go forward with the repaste or am I just being paranoid that my hardware may fail. If I should go for the repaste is Noctua better or Ptm7950? I have seen linus's video and the availability of the Ptm7950 in store but noctua is readily available also the only Ptm7950 available in India are: GPU Thermal Pad, Corn Phase Change, PTM7950 High Conductive Silicone Grease 8.5W/mK CPU Thermal Paste for M.2 SSD RAM Processor GPU CPU PS5 (80 * 40mm) https://amzn.in/d/1iPN4j2 PTM7950 Thermal Pad Phase Change Heatsink 80x80x0.2mm 8.5W/mK Thermal Conductive for Heatsink PS5 Steam Deck CPU GPU SSD Silicone Grease Thermal Pad https://amzn.in/d/3rckyL7 And I don't know I should trust the above both of them or not. But also trying to import Ptm7950 from LTT store will be pricy for someone living in India.
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My laptop (Dell G5 15 SE 5505) recently had a display assembly replacement, I've had overheating issues before and I've fixed them before but this time nothing's helping. The technician who replaced the display assembly was in a great hurry and handled my device very roughly, I had secured the heatsink just fine that it did not cause any problems at all for a whole year and I'm sure it would've been fine for little while longer but the technician basically ripped it off the motherboard, installed the display assembly and put it back on and tightened every screw to the max, after he left, I removed the heatsink, replaced the thermal paste and tried my best to put it back the way I did before and after playing my usual games, ac mirage, pubg, gow, ea fc, all the games crash after a few minutes and the cpu is stuck at 0.39GHz. I don't know what to do anymore, this has never happened before, please help me, Thank you.
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This is my first time creating a post here, so I apologize for the mistakes I might made. I'm a CS student in year 2 and currently I have 2 laptops, one is a MacBook Pro 2014 and the other is a Dell Latitude 6430s. They are quite old and beaten up. Should I sell both of my laptops and buy a newer secondhand laptop? My budget is about $200 to $300 cause I'm living in Viet Nam. I have a PC at home, so I just need a something a long battery time and lightweight. I have some in mind which are Dell Latitude E5480, Dell Latitude 7490, Lenovo ThinkPad T480. Thanks anyone that are willing to help me!
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I'm becoming more mobile and not using my desktop much. I'm considering of buy a 14" laptop for web development and light/casual gaming. It should handle 4k monitors easily without stuttering. I'm considering the Legion Slim 5 Gen 8 AMD (14") with RTX 4060, 32gb ram, AMD Ryzen™ 7 7840HS. I'm used to lenovo's warranty and they're quite good. What do you guys think?
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This BSOD has been happening for a while. I've tried a number of things suggested for the ntoskrnl BSODs. Dates ntoskrnl BSODs have happened: 01/05/24 17/04/24 23/03/24 20/03/24 Computer info: ASUS ROG STRIX - G15 Model NO.: G513QY-SG15.R96800 MS Windows 11 Home - 10.0.22631 Build 22631 AMD Ryzen 9 5980HX AMD Radeon RX 6800M MOBO: ASUSTeK G513QY Purchased 11/23 Minidumps for above dates are attatched. 050124-14312-01.dmp.txt 041724-15375-01.dmp.txt 032324-16281-01.dmp.txt 032024-14296-01.dmp.txt
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So basically something happened to cause my laptop (ASUS ROG supported), to BSOD loop and I can't seem to fix it, apparently I need to get into Safe Mode to fix it, but that option just isn't available. Now that I can't find a solution, I've decided to reinstall windows (I had windows 11 but now I want 10), I am using the Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso paired with WoeUSB on Manjaro running sudo woeusb --device /home/myusernamehere/Downloads/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso /dev/sda --tgt-fs NTFS My problem I am having is that when I go to reinstall, my drive not being detected, this happened last time and it was an issue with some Rapid Technology intel drivers not being installed, I check BIOS and it says they're installed so I assume I don't need to load drivers and install them on the windows install screen as it says they're already installed in BIOS, other than this I have no idea why my drive isn't being detected. Edit: my mouse doesn't work on the install screen for windows so I've been using TAB and ENTER to select. Any ideas?
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bios Unlocking Hidden Bios Options
TheMoltenEqualizer posted a topic in Laptops and Pre-Built Systems
I've found that oem BIOS-es tend to be much more slim and light in options compared to ones that you would put in a custom Pc. This is normally in place to keep unknowing hands from messing up critical stuff, most often clock multipliers, voltages, etc. as messing up these settings can easily fry your system, thus only the most essential and least destructive settings are left, like a drive password, system date settings, and such. But sometimes you just want more control MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHATEVER YOU'RE DOING! IF YOU CHANGE SETTING TO INCORRECT VALUES YOU COULD DAMAGE YOUR COMPUTER IN UNREPAIRABLE WAYS! If you are not sure what some settings do please look it up on the internet or ask someone more knowing of the topic before making changes. Changing setting will likely not solve your problems, nut break it (more). Please don't blame me if anything wrong happens, I warned you about the dangers of fooling around! This is where unlocking bios options come into play. Sometimes it is quite is and sometimes not. So I've decided to make this topic to help some people get on their ways, and to ask for some help myself. If I have made some mistakes writing this topic, please correct me in the comments, and I will edit the text accordingly. I don't wanna spread misinformation... Easier: secret menus - sometimes manufacturers don't actually disable these options in the BIOS ROM, since it would complicate life for support or repair services. These are usually unlocked by pressing a secret key combination entering or while inside the bios. Different OEMs/manufacturers and BIOS vendors tend to have different combinations, here are the most common ones I've found: Pressing "A" while entering BIOS setting - after pressing your key to enter the BIOS setting (usually F1,F2,F8,F10,F12 or DELETE) immediately press A once. Look around your menus and see if something is unlocked. If you have a laptop with an "Fn" function key toggle try pressing Fn+Tab three times. Check for menus again. I read that it is possible you need to re-enter your BIOS settings before unlocking the menu, so you could also try to enter your setting once, pressing the combination three times, and then re-enter the BIOS settings Other common combinations, usually pressed while under POST to enter the BIOS: Shift+F1/F2/etc. ; Ctrl+Shift+F1/... ; Ctrl+Alt+F1/...; In laptops you could also try Fn+F1/.. or Ctrl+Fn+F1/... I will update the list with OEM/manufacturer specific combinations if they are suggested in the comments. Harder: disabled menus - BIOS Flash - power outage during or flashing compromised/broken BIOS ROMs can lead to your Pc bricked or even worse! Make sure to not flash during thunderstorms, and plug in the power adapter of your laptop / use a UPS for your desktop if you have one. Also make sure that the ROM you're trying to flash is compatible with your motherboard. Having a compromised BIOS can lead to your data stolen or erased, and your PC doing weird things! Flashing non-approved ROMs can also lead to your warranty being voided! Having secret menus is nice but it means that said advanced settings are still accessible to anyone knowing the combination, and that includes non-OEM people. However developers and engineers usually use those settings, to test things out and such, so the most common method is to simply disable the menus in the ROM by flipping a bit or getting customers a non-developer BIOS. Methods usually revolve around saving your current ROM and modifying it or getting a developer-ROM. The difficulty of flashing the BIOS can be very different system to system: Entering BIOS and using the BIOS flash utility Using an application to flash your BIOS while in Windows Getting into safe mode and applying some special settings, then using the application Taking your PC apart and flashing your BIOS chip directly with an SPI flasher device Keep in mind that most manufacturers/OEMs don't allow the flashing of non-signed ROMs directly so it is much more complicated to actually change the BIOS in these cases. I hope this helps some of you. If you have anything to say regarding this topic please feel free to reply.- 9 replies
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Hi, So i have repasted 4 times like in a 6 months period and i have even replaced the both laptop's fans with new ones but i see no improvement in temperatures. What i'm doing wrong? few things from side: - Using laptop Cooler - Vents are clear - Bios Up to date - Room temp not high - No virus or anything, fresh installation I can not under-volt because of my Bios update version with Intel XTU, neither under-volting works with throttlestop. So under-volting is not possible. CPU temps go to 100C even with loads like 10-30%, where as GPU is fine at 99% of load. Please help.
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specs: Ryzen 5 5600h 16gb RAM for some reason, hovering over the battery icon shows 4hrs of life remaining at 100% ! shouldn't it be higher? about 6hrs+ ? Im only using the browser with a couple tabs and having an office app open. I haven't even begun doing any video editing/ photo editing. Not even played any games on it yet.
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Hello, so i have a major issue with my relatively new laptop, its about 6 months old and i have already had some trouble with it but this just ruins gaming on it. luckily google still works for school and browsing. and at those times the clock speed is doing okay and just varies a little bit like it should but while gaming is goes all over the place and makes games unplayable due to the constant fps drops. My rig: Asus TUF A15 4060, Ryzen 7 7735HS, 16GB ram (see video) the clock speed drops drastically every 2/4 seconds while under high load, i have updated the drivers, i have tried older drivers, reinstalled AMD adrenaline 3 times or something. ofc restarted my laptop a ton. i am very sure this is an issue with my CPU and nothing else but with my computer knowledge i have no idea what is going on so i have come to the pc knowledge gods, hopefully for some kind of answer. i have tried looking online and submitting an issue at the AMD forums, but with both i got back empty handed and more worried than before. fan mode or GPU mode for the laptop doesn't matter, plugged in or on battery also don't. The CPU fans work as intended and this still happened when the CPU was 60-70 degrees Celsius. btw while browsing the web, the clock speed stays at about 4 GHz but then when gaming is varies from around 4 GHz to 1.7 GHz to 0.4 GHz and everything in between, below and above. it seems to random. Thank you for anyone who read this far, I'm already grateful for even trying to help. (btw, sorry about my English, it's my secondary language) IMG_4452.mov
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I gave my friend my unused 8gb sodimm stick(2666mhz), he installed it on his laptop with 4gb of soldered 3200mhz ram. And now his laptop shows black screen but his power button still lights up. He is using a Lenovo laptop with which model I'm not quite sure of. Could this caused by speed difference in the ram?
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Hey everyone, I'm looking for some help with picking out a new laptop. I'm selling my PC and current laptop to get one that I can use at home with a monitor and in the university. I've just started studying Civil Engineering at university. I need a laptop that's powerful enough to handle all my coursework (CAD, Revit), with a good graphics card for the job. I don't need a huge screen, but at least 14 inches would be nice. Also, since there aren't many power sockets in my classrooms, I need a laptop with a battery that lasts a while. If anyone has any recommendations or tips based on what they've used for engineering stuff, I'd really appreciate it. Whether it's a specific brand or just features to look out for, I'm all ears. Thanks a bunch for any help you can give!
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G'day from down under! Looking for laptop suggestions for work to mainly use with solidworks. (Alex may be the perfect person due to his frequent use of solidworks and his expertise in laptop reviewing) I have a desktop that smashes solidworks and has been working great but as my side business is expanding I need a laptop so I can do some work on the go. Ideally looking from something in the USD1000-1500 range that will run solidworks fairly well. I'm not expecting a miracle as any heavy loads I'll run on the desktop. Will be the usual emailed and web browsing to go with it.
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Soooo I have a quite old by today's standards Lenovo ideapad laptop, I was showing my friend a new wallpaper I put so I snipped it and sent it to him on whatsapp, then when I checked on my phone, the wallpaper looked 10 times better, all the colors were waayy more vibrant and it made me wonder if I could do the same on my laptop screen? Is that something possible with a bit of configuration or is it some tech that probably isn't supported on my laptop...my phone is a nova3i btw
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I’ve had my ASUS rig strix g16 for under a month and all of a sudden, the next day, the temps increased by 10c or something. Here’s a picture of what the temps were before, and after. The programs I’m running are the exact same and this is like a 1 week difference. The fans are louder and the temps are increased. I opened the laptop and checked the fans, they were clean. The laptop is also lifted using these. This is the second time I’ve purchased this laptop. The first one also overheated a month in. I have the laptop raised using these things and temps decreased by 5c which is good when I first elevated the laptop. I had this problem with my old model a month and a half in. I’m thinking about sending it for a rma for them to repaste the laptop. The laptop is undervolted by -80mv using the bios IMG_0607.heic IMG_0607.heic
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Recently my Asus GL503GE started to lag(cannot go above 10-15 fps) in all games(and some normal apps). Here are the specs: CPU: I7-8750H GPU: GTX 1050ti RAM: 16 GB Storage: Windows 10 on a 120GB Adata SSD, and a 1TB HDD. I have tried reinstalling my display drivers, set my games to use the Nvidia GPU in the Nvidia control panel and the Windows Graphics preferences settings, use the 'best performance' power plan, but nothing has worked. I also have the latest BIOS version for my laptop and the latest Windows updates. When I play a game, the Nvidia GPU stays at 0% most of the time, but does random spikes of activity to 100% and the Intel GPU stays between 10% and 50%, with some random spikes to 100% as well. Here is a screenshot just after I shut down Elden Ring: What can I try to fix this?
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Hi, looking for assistance in forcing laptop to "remember" to output to External Monitor upon boot, with no internal display connected. Laptop AORUS X7 DT V7 GTX 1070 Intel i7-7820HK Display Outputs: HDMI 2.0, Mini DisplayPort 1.3, Thunderbolt 3 Internal Display: 1440p / 144hz, 40-pin LVDS Ribbon cable. Internal Display is broken. I'm trying to have the laptop to boot and output display to an External Monitor only. With the internal display disconnected, the laptop will not display output to External Monitor. When the internal display IS connected, only then can the laptop output display to the External Monitor. Once into Win10, I can set display output to "Second Screen Only" and then disconnected the internal display. But if the laptop is turned off, the internal display has to be connected before turning on. Only then in Win10 can I change the output back to "Second Screen Only". Things I've tried that don't work: In Win10, Notification Tray >> Project, selecting "Second Screen Only". Upon boot, it seems like this isn't remembered with internal display disconnected. Used different cables: HDMI-to-HDMI, DisplayPort-to-MiniDP, HDMI-to-Thunderbolt. None work when connected to External Monitor only; Internal Display still must be connected before boot. Used a different monitor. Check BIOS to find display settings. Settings doesn't exist. Disabled/Uninstalled internal display drivers Can I enter BIOS with only External Monitor connected? Yes, I can enter the BIOS. But when booting Win10, laptop will not output display to External Monitor if Internal Display is not connected. Repair the Internal Display/Ribbon Cable instead? This is a Frankenstein project. I want to say Windows 10 is the problem here because laptop can boot into BIOS and output to External Display. It is only upon booting into Windows 10 that the External Display sleeps, thus laptop is attempting to find its internal display if not connected. Thanks, and any help is appreciated.
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laptop Laptop crashes when the charger is plugged in
The_Warrio332 posted a topic in Troubleshooting
Hey, My mother has been having issues with her Asus Vivobook (Asus Vivobook 15 F512JA-AS34). The laptop works as expected while on battery, but the moment you plug in the charger (while in Windows) the laptop freezes. It is the same charger that came in the box, and it does charge the laptop's battery. I expected an issue with Windows, but for some reason, I was unable to get into the Windows installation environment (Created an installation disk with the Windows Media Creation Tool). BIOS works normally, with or without a charger and I do not suspect thermals to be the issue. It gets slightly more weird after this. I used the Ventoy software to make a bootable USB and put on Linux Mint on it to test if I could replicate the Windows issues on Linux. I was unable to get into the Linux environment (tried both Cinnamon and Mate versions) and get the following error screen (same for both versions) The Linux ISO's and windows install were working (tested on a secondary laptop) After a few more attempts I tried running Hiren's Boot PE, but could not get it to launch. The Linux built-in Memtest stopped at around 25%. Are the problems described here fixable or do you believe it is a hardware problem and we need to get a new laptop? -
Hi all, I have a laptop which work let me keep when we moved over to new laptops. Admittedly i think it was just a nice IT guy as opposed to company policy. However, the laptop is bios locked, initially I managed to boot it from usb windows media, and reinstalled windows, removing all partitions (bitlocker was mentioned during this part). Now when I turn on the laptop it takes me to a corporate login page, seems like initial set up of a corporate laptop. I am wondering if I replace the SSD if this will solve the issues and I can reinstall windows on it then? I’ve also read that if I use the new ssd in this machine it will be locked to that machine? I believe the Bios lock is going to be impossible to remove. Happy to answer any questions.
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My MSI Laptop (MSI Summit E13 Flip Evo A11MT-223) has been shutting off without warning, the battery is near full too. Not even a BSOD, just completely dies on me. To turn it back on, I have to plug it in, close it, open it and press the power button. This has happened 4 times within the last few hours and I don't understand why. It has only happened when I have it unplugged. I highly doubt it is overheating because I have the fans set to balanced mode, and it shut off without the laptop feeling hot at all or the fans even spinning. In windows 10 event viewer it says I have 4 critical events that happened in the last hour (it has crashed 4 times) Event ID 41, saying it has rebooted wihout cleanly shutting down first. Any ideas on what's wrong?? I updated windows and other drivers. Do I need to clean fans or something? I've had it for about a year and a half with on and off use.
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I have a ASUS ROG Zephyrus 2021. I am trying to factory reset my laptop, but when I tried I got stuck on the BitLocker Recover screen. When I enter my BitLocker Code, I get this error message from my laptop (image). When I close it, it brings me back to the BitLocker screen. F11 and ESC also bring me back to BitLocker. What do I do?
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Hello everyone I am re shelling my acer spin 3 SP314-53n laptop as the plastic has deteriorated and I cant screw the hinges in anymore and the case is cracked and broken and being held together via cellotape for about a year ish + I have found the part numbers for both the cases however cannot find a palmrest (6B.HFCN5.001) with a us keyboard and I'd rather not use a uk keyboard. The parts supplier has a us keyboard separate. Would anyone know of a place where I could find one as I cannot find any that arent sold out and if not how would i switch the keyboards across?(i know its probably plastic riveted but i am willing)
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Hello i have a 4060 gaming laptop. It works great but the only problem is that when i put my laptop in sleep mode and close the lid after opening the lid my laptop turns on normally fans spin and everything but the screen is black after trying to plug it to a external monitor . monitor turns on immediately but the laptop screen stays black after some time the laptop screen turns on too . Dont know how to fix this tried updating windows to 11 didnt work pls help