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As the title says I only hear sound from the right side of ANY headphones I plug into my computer. I use an Audio Interface and no matter what configuration I use I only hear from the right side of my headphones. I tried many headphones and all had the same problem. I plugged the headphones directly into the IO of my motherboard and I still hear only from the right side. It doesn't matter if I plug into the motherboard IO or the Audio Interface it still doesn't work. I also just formatted my PC and the audio problem is still here. I tried many cables and headphones and it still the same problem. I don't know what else I can try to do to fix this problem. I should also add that I am using Windows11 It would be very nice if some could try to help me. Sorry for bad English.

Hello all, First post here on the forums. It is great to be here. I am new to windows 11 and recently did an upgrade to my PC. My equipment is as follows; MSI MPG 670E Carbon Wifi Motherboard G.SKILL Trident Z5 Neo RGB Series 96GB AMD Ryzen 7700X MSI 4070 Trio X Windows 11 (fully updated) Main Monitor LG 4k 32un550-WAJP Now to the wierd issue. When my main monitor wakes from sleep the screen shrinks and then returns to normal. I attached a video of what happens (not my video though). This issue didn't happen when I was on Windows 10 (using the same monitor). Any idea what is going on? 2vXA4yV.mp4

Hey everyone, I'm turning to this forum to see if someone can aid me in solving a mysterious problem I am encountering. A real who done it. I'll include as much information as I can, but anything I've missed, let me know. Part 1: The Mysterious Death (problem description) I've recently built a new system (with the obvious aid of LTT). This system consists of firsthand parts and works tremendously well in most cases. 'EXPO I' is enabled (via the BIOS), but no other settings have been adjusted or played with (default profiles across the board). In the last couple of months, I started to play some more beefy games, a particular favorite of mine is Hell Let Loose. This is where I stumbled across the problem initially (as far as I can recall). "Hell Let Loose" is far from optimized, but with a couple of additional Steam launch settings, the game smooths out around the edges. Upon first introducing these launch settings, I put all suggested components into place. One such setting was `-dx12`, which forces the game to use DirectX 12. Shortly after launching the game, my PC (without any warning signs) shuts off. There is no lag, stutter, or freeze that indicates an issue. It's almost as if someone has flicked off the wall outlet. After this point, the system cannot be turned back on with the PC power button. The wall switch (or PSU switch) must be turned off for ~10 seconds, and then the power button works again (and turns on as if nothing happened). Part 2: Following the breadcrumbs (troubleshooting steps taken) At first, I thought this might be a heat problem. ITX + high-end gear, seemed like a reasonable assumption. With the AMD 'Adrenalin' tool on my second monitor, I played again; Constantly keeping an eye on temperatures. Sure enough, I was hitting 85+ degrees (celsius) on my GPU junction. As such, I reduced my video settings and tried again. Unfortunately, I didn't see any temperature improvements with this change. With an FPS overlay, I saw I was getting 300+ frames per second. So, I turned on VSYNC in the game, and BINGO, temperatures dropped significantly (1440p 144hz). Unfortunately, this did not resolve the crashing issue. If not a temperature related issue (seeing as I was now sitting comfortably around 60 degrees on the CPU and 70 for GPU junction), then what? Perhaps it was one of the launch settings I enabled for this game. Removing all the launch settings, I was able to play for a longer period without a crash, but this unfortunately left the game in a less than desirable state. After trying multiple permutations of the launch options, I found that removing the '-dx12' setting removed my issues. Problem solved, life goes on... and then, it came back. After doing some research, I thought it might be my PSU. This was an initial concern for my setup, as I would normally like to shoot well above the recommended specs for my system. Unfortunately, such PSU specs were not available to me at the time. I thought that being 50W above the recommendation would be enough wiggle room. In order to test this theory, I ran my system through a series of stress tests. Using the following tools: - Ryzen Master: CPU stress test - AMD's Adrenalin: GPU test - OCCT: CPU, GPU, RAM and PSU stress tests Each of these tests were run for about 10 minutes each, and consecutively. My system didn't crash and continued to work normally after the hour of stress. Crashes were infrequent, and had no obvious link between what was happening in-game, and when they would occur. Part 3: The washed away footprint (more details that might help) - Whilst I play games, I also watch YouTube on a second monitor. Most instances of random shutdowns occur when multi-tasking in this manner, but I've also encountered some shutdowns without multi-tasking. - Crashes don't occur when programming or internet browsing. I can be running a local host server, with 20+ search tabs, on Discord whilst playing a YouTube video, for 12 hours without issue. - Gaming is the only common denominator. Hell Let Loose is the most common game that crashes my system, but Minecraft (with shaders) has also triggered this issue. - REPRODUCING: Without fail, playing Hell Let Loose, with '-dx12' enabled will cause this issue; Within 5 minutes of playing. - I'm using a multi-box for the two displays and the PC. The multi-box has surge protection, and is reasonably high end. - My PC sits on my desk, and the ambient room temperature (middle of winter) is fairly cool (don't have a thermometer on hand, but I'd estimate 16-20 degrees). - Time of day, and session duration don't seem to play a factor in when the issue occurs. Part 4: Tools of the trade (System Specs) - CPU: 7800X3D || Driver v??? (Windows says it's up to date via device manager) - CPU Fan: Noctua NH-D12L - GPU: Sapphire PULSE, RX 7900 XTX || Driver v23.7.1 - RAM: G.Skill Flare X5 32GB (2x16) - PSU: Lian Li SP850 - SSD (OS): 980 Pro 500GB - SSD (Games): 990 Pro 2000 - MOBO: ASUS X670E-I || BIOS v1616 (latest) - CASE: NR200P (non max) - OS: Windows 11 || Updated, and still having issues Part 5: Final notes I was cautiously aware that my PSU might be problematic. I wasn't sure if Lian Li made quality PSU's, nor was I confident that 850W was enough. It's 80+ gold rated, so I thought this would be enough. I am using an SP750 in a less powerful system (recommended 500W), which doesn't seem to have any troubles at all. Seeing as I'm not able to reproduce the issue with stress tests. I don't know enough about PSU's to be confident that it is the cause of this problem. The symptoms seem to line up, but I can't reproduce this error by putting my system under load. I'm also unable to get any logs of the event, as the system shuts down randomly (where the logging trace buffer is lost). I am very close to purchasing a new PSU, but I wondered if this community had any insight, or more tests to be confident that my PSU is the issue. One potential case (that I'm not sure how to test), is that some event during my gaming sessions, requires the 7900xtx to spike in its request for power. Normally, the 7900xtx (with Hell Let Loose) sits well under 50% of the available wattage availability. Could it be possible that some event requires my GPU to need such a significant power draw? Another potential is that I need to directly plug my PC into mains power. That somehow, my PC is requesting more from the multi-box than available. I'm not able to find any evidence that this is the case, but maybe someone else has more knowledge than me here? I've undervolted the GPU for the time being. I'll have to wait and see if this creates a more stable atmosphere. Any insights and comments are appreciated! I'm more than happy to attempt any solutions. Given I have a fairly reliable means of reproducing this issue, I'll be able to test suggestions relatively quickly. Cheers

So I have a GALAX GTX3070 in my PC, it's giving me this weird vertical green line occasionally along with screen tearing, only on the top portion of my screen. I've done the below diagnostic tests so far and I simply cannot workout why this is occurring... Hoping someone else has solutions/ideas for me? Replaced display cable Updated drivers Deleted drivers and re-installed Different monitor Re-seated GPU, RAM, CPU and all power cables Toggled G-Sync & V-Sync on/off Toggled HDR on/off (With HDR off, the green line is almost completely gone, however screen tearing still occurs constantly) Wipe all drives and fresh windows install Note: When taking screenshots, no defects are present. The green line is only really present when looking at a white backdrop (as you'll see in photo) and the screen tearing is only on the very top of the screen, and only really present in Battlefield 5, don't see it much in many other games. (video is short to keep under 20MB limit) Clip.mp4

Hi there Four weeks ago I finally left team Apple and built my own Pc. Assembling and setting it up was pretty easy, with the help of YT and the little knowledge I have from the time when my father built PCs in the early 2000. My Setup: MB: Rog Strix X570-E CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900x (stock cooler) GPU: Gigabyte 2070S Gaming OC 3X white Ram: 2x G.Skill Trident Z 3600mhz 8GB SSD: M.2 Corsair 960Gb PSU: Corsair RM850x White Case: NZXT H510i 4 days ago my Gigabyte RTX 2070 Super startet spinning its fans extremly fast even if the temperatures haven't been over 35°C (95°F). I didn't install any software that could affect the GPU except for the Nvidia drivers until the GPU startet to go crazy. A clean reinstall of the drivers didn't solve my problem, so i tried to control the fan speed with msi afterburner which didn't work as well. Does anybody have an idea how i could solve my problem? Thank you J.D Ps: Please excuse my grammatical errors, I'm from Switzerland and was sitting next to the window in english class.

I recently bought a Razer Pro Click mouse, and it’s perfect for my large hands and the best mouse I’ve every used in terms of comfort. I’ve used every Logitech MX Master mouse before, but the weight was just too much. However, I was very sad when I realized that Razer’s software is not available for Mac. Which is a bit strange, since the Razer Pro Click is targeted towards the workplace and professionals, not gamers. Hopefully Razer release their software so Mac users also can buy their products and customize them. Didn’t they used to have software on macOS?

Hi everyone, I’ve got an issue with my recently built pc and would appreciate some feedback / ideas on what might be wrong and how to fix it! 4-6 weeks ago I built a new pc (specs at the bottom) and have since run into a couple of issues: 1. after building, the pc kept constantly crashing right on startup (either login screen or directly after entering windows) - I managed to fix this by turning on „pcie bifurcation (8x/8x)“ in BIOS. 2. after this the computer usually booted fine and worked smoothly. However, it occasionally showed the same symptoms as on pcie 16x (freezing / crashing on startups) or instantly restarted during the boot process. These issues have increased significantly lately with every second start either doing this or even showing a grey / blue screen on startup. 3. In Addition, just a couple of days ago the middle and left fan of the gpu have stopped working. They neither spin themselves under load nor are addressable via the corresponding software. I was able to make them work again twice for a couple of minutes by un- and reslotting the card. Fixes I tried so for (to no avail): * updating os, drivers and software * deleting and reinstalling all fan control software and drivers * reinstalling windows * disconnecting and reconnecting all pcie cables * un- and reslotting the gpu Build / Specs: * gpu: RTX4090 Gigabyte Gaming OC * cpu: Intel i9-13900KF * ram: 64GB (2x32) G.Skill Trident Z Neo RGB DDR5-6000 CL30 * psu: GigaByte Aorus P1200W * mb: z790 GigaByte Aorus Master * ssd: 2x GigaByte Aorus NVMe Gen4 2TB Thanks for your help!

ISSUE: My PC will occasionally lock up/ freeze on both monitors (usually playing ram intensive games like Factorio or modded Minecraft), when it locks up the audio still comes through but I can't make any inputs like typing, moving my mouse, caps lock also doesn't light up when I press it. I become completely locked out and I have to restart my PC. It has only ever BSOD'ed once but the freezing is becoming more frequent. Other weird issues I've noticed: my browser on my second monitor will start moving random squares around the screen of the media it is displaying (the effect is worse when watching a video but still happens on any tab) which is usually caused by playing a game on my primary monitor. this issue is super annoying and every time I screenshot it, the screenshot is perfect with no graphical issues small amounts of random green or grey static will appear for half a second at the bottom of my game playing rainbow 6 siege then disappear once my cursor became a solid black box and I restarted out of fear I'll edit the post if I remember any more. RAM: I originally thought it was faulty RAM so I ran a memtest on my old sticks of ram and they all errored which is concerning so I replaced them, I haven't run a test on my new sticks yet but the issue is still occurring. I did have the XMP profile turned on in the BIOS but I turned it off once I started experiencing these issues. When I replaced the sticks everything was running smoothly for the first few days but the locking up and the other issues came back. Old sticks: Corsair 32GB(4x8GB) DDR4 3200MHz Vengeance Pro - CMW32GX4M4C3200C16W New sticks: Corsair 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 3200MHz Vengeance Pro - CMW32GX4M2E3200C16W I've checked my task manager while playing problematic games and it only uses around 1/3 of my total memory BIOS: If I remember correctly I had to flash my bios to work with my CPU so I was curious whether that could be a cause. PSU: Plugged into the wall along with a mini fridge, I don't believe I'm drawing too much power but rarely my fridge will click and my second monitor will cycle power. Powered by chad 240v Australian outlets. RESOLUTIONS?: I am not quite sure what the issue is so I am reaching out, I've researched it and I can't figure out what the root cause is. I have my suspicions it is still my RAM, I did recently check the QVL list for my motherboard and found my sticks weren't listed. I haven't resorted to the extremes like a fresh install of Windows or replacing SSD as my last Hail Mary because I am hoping the issue is fairly minor. QUESTIONS: What could the issue be? Is there something that I could install or show to help you find the issue? If there is anything else you need I'll happily send it. I will be watching this post like a hawk so I should reply fairly quickly, any help is greatly appreciated. Spec List w/ Model Number: OS: Windows 11 Home BIOS: ver. f4d CPU: Ryzen 7 5800X3D (100-100000651WOF) GPU: ASUS Radeon RX 6900 XT TUF Gaming Top Edition 16GB (TUF-RX6900XT-T16G-GAMING) RAM: Corsair (2x16GB) DDR4 3200MHz Vengeance Pro (CMW32GX4M2E3200C16W) MOBO: X570S AORUS MASTER STORAGE: Samsung 2TB 970 EVO Plus M.2 NVMe SSD (MZ-V7S2T0BW) PSU: Corsair 850W RM850 80+ (CP-9020232-AU) DISPLAY: 2x Acer 24" QHD IPS 144Hz (VG271US) Thanks, Benjamin

I was playing Rust and realized I couldn't crouch jump. I have a Keychron K10 keyboard. Space-bar doesn't work when I am holding 'ctrl'. Just started to have this problem recently. I don't see it as a ghosting problem as it can do 20+ keys at once. Any solutions? 20230526_153540.mp4

As the title already states, been upgrading recently from a gtx 1650 to 6650XT, I got almost the same performance on stuff like GTA, when a lot of ppl on YT get 120fps on ultra I get roughly 60-65FPS, same goes for Sons of the Forest (50FPS) and Control (70FPS) even Fortnite performs pretty bad (90FPS high settings). So I was wondering if I should send it back and get a new one or if someone could help me, maybe I forgot something. What I did: XMP enabled Uninstalled old drivers Installed new drivers Benchmarked (the GPU eats 157W max which is limit. Temps look fine 58°C and 70-75°C Hotspot) Been overclocking it a bit to increase the performance Benchmarked again (clocks are stable, still bad performance) Enabled resizeable bar Updated the BIOS Reinstalled drivers TimeSpy: Clock: 2950MHz Memory: 2350 MHz Core Voltage: 1150mV TimeSpy GPU Score: 10 637 This runs pretty stable been benchmarking it a lot System: GPU: RX 6650XT PowerColer Hellhound OC CPU: i5-10400 Motherboard: MSI H410M-A Pro RAM: 32 GB Corsair Vengeance 3200MHz (runs on 2666MHz limited by CPU) PSU: 650W 85+ Bronze Storage: Samsung NVMe M.2 980 1TB Samsung QVO SATA SSD 2TB CPU-Cooling: be quiet! Pure Rock 2 Case Cooling: 3x Front (Pull), 2x Top (Push), 1x Back (Push) Resolution: 1080P

Hi all reading this I just purchased an ebay 3900x from seller europe_99 , my previous components with no issues or OC before or after. Asus tuf b450m plus 2 2400g Corsair vengeance lpx 2x8gb 3200mhz Xfx rx 580 8gb Gigabyte 256 m.2 ssd pcie 3.0 x4 Pny 1tb 2.5 ssd I updated the bios to asuss' recommended ver. 4010 with all the hardware listed above only switching to the 3900x. Now I've only seen a flash of the sign in screen on windows but scared the cpu maybe faulty I'm getting error codes Kernel data inpage error Memory management Whea uncorrectable error And one 0x00021a I've noticed in the bios it's idle voltage is 1.406 to 1.417... Even when i tried to reinstall windows it wont even let me pull it from any usb slot I'm at a loss any help will be greatly appreciated

Anyone else has this problem that when AirPods connect to my windows pc, the Bluetooth doesn't work 10/10, instead, it connects and sounds ok but at the second it starts crackling and sounding awful. I want to fix this so bad but I have seen lots of tutorials and still can't fix it. Somehow it sounds like the connection isn't strong enough, but my Bluetooth from the pc works great with all other devices, and my AirPods sound great while connected to my phone and being 20 meters away, so it doesn't make sense. It must be some sort of configuration or something related to that, if anyone knows how to fix this it would be greatly appreciated. Some bluetooth expert, please help me fix this

Hey guys, I'm planning to finally upgrade my rig, after many years. Here are the details. Budget: max ˜3000€ (preferably as little as possible though, since I plan on upgrading again in a few years when GTA 6 comes out for PC) Country: Germany Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: GTA 5 (and 6 when it finally comes out :C), Overwatch 2, Red Dead Redemption 2, pretty much everything else, any new AAA games coming out, Software Engineering Stuff (including basic AI/Machine Learning work in the future maybe), Basic video editing (but i mostly edit on my work laptop anyway so not that often), Maybe streaming too?? Other details: Upgrading from Prebuilt PC (from Hyrican): Motherboard: Gigabyte H110M-S2HP (can't even update BIOS because of Hyrican proprietary software) GPU: Nvidia GeForce GTX 960 xD RAM: 16GB RAM DDR4 CPU: Intel Core i7-6700 CPU 3.40 GHz (8CPUs) OS: Windows 10 Home 64 Bit (can't upgrade to Windows 11 bcs CPU is too old - but I also probably can't reuse this license for the new PC so it doesn't matter i think) Planning to Upgrade to (see screenshots): Motherboard: MSI MAG Z790 TOMAHAWK WIFI GPU: Asus TUF GAMING GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12 GB (I wasn't sure which company I should buy this from, or how big the difference between ASUS and MSI is, for instance) RAM: G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 chromax.black 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: Corsair RM1000x (2021) 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Case Fans: 5x Noctua Ax25 chromax 60.09 CFM 120 mm Fan Total Cost right now: around 2500 euros I am playing on a 1080p MSI Monitor with 360Hz Refresh Rate and GSync. I will buy a secondary Monitor that is either 1440p or 4k, for media consumption and games that look pretty instead of shooters where i need faster refresh rate. I am planning to buy the build at the beginning of June, or today if I can find a way to finance the graphics card and CPU with monthly installments (and also add 2 more years of extra warranty on top of the EU legal minimum). I went with the i7 instead of the i9 after comparing them on UserBenchmark and noticing that the i9 is 200 euros more and only gives around 5% more performance on avg. Similar thing for the GPU - The 4070Ti comes 4th in performance and costs half of the price of the 1st (4090). I don't need THAT much power right now, since I am planning to upgrade to the absolute best whenever GTA 6 comes out, so I can play everything on absolute Ultra and get the most FPS then. I was really unsure which Case and Motherboard to go with after this. For motherboard, I care about the basics being as new as possible. The latest PCIe Generation, DDR5 Memory, stuff like that. I don't care about Wifi, Bluetooth and all the extra stuff - I won't use it. But I'm not sure if I even NEED the latest basics I mentioned with this build. (I do want DDR5 RAM though) I don't give a crap about case looks, I just need airflow and function. Which is why I thought this one is good, since I watched a Linus Video on it. But I need a USB adapter for this (see warnings in Screenshot), but I probably won't use USB Type C anyway so... At the end I thought it was kind of weird that I cut slight corners for the GPU and CPU but went overboard with Power Supply, Memory, Motherboard, CPU Fan... Do you guys think it makes sense, since I want to upgrade in the near future again? Can i reuse any components from this build then (say I'll just upgrade the GPU and CPU when GTA 6 comes out, keep the motherboard and everything else. will that work with this build?) IMPORTANT QUESTION: IIRC, there was an issue with NVIDIA's 4000 series where the cables were melting. I saw lots of articles about it then. Something about the cables being wobbly??? Has that been fixed, is it something I need to worry about with my graphics card? How can I check? Given this info, do you guys have any recommendations and tips?

Hello everyone! I was just wodering, Ive got a fresh usb drive (sandisk) and wanted to backup some files. While it works for any folder, the one I acutally need to backup won't transfer. Nothing happens at all. Interesting is that I cannot even put it on my desktop either. Anyone Know's why that happens? and how to fix it?

About two years ago, I got this laptop, an Asus GA503QR. It has: Ryzen 9 5900HS RTX 3070 laptop 16 GB of DDR4-3200 MHz 8 GB are soldered to the motherboard 8 GB are on a SODIMM (stock: Samsung M471A1G44AB0-CWE) Timing (from CPU-Z): CL: 22.0, tRCD: 22, tRP: 22, tRAS: 52, tRC: 74, CR: 1T Weirdly, the motherboard-soldered RAM doesn't seem to show up in CPU-Z (in the .txt report). I'm not sure if I missed it or what - if you know how to find this, please let me know, as that could be helpful here. I went and purchased what I assume to be the higher capacity version of the same thing: the M471A2K43DB1-CWE. It's a 16 GB (2Rx8) SODIMM at the same frequency, and I figured, being from the same manufacturer and having a quite similar product number, it would work well. Nope. It seems that it was a great fan of random BSODs, all the time (I can't find them in my Event Viewer, but they were "Memory management" along with a few others.) I've since gone back to the OEM RAM, but I'd really like to have more than the 16GB. Any ideas as to how I could give this more RAM without all the crashing? Thank you for any help/advice - I'd love to be able to have a bit more RAM here.

Hasee s7-ta5nb WIN10 I5-11260H. I tried to download some newer versions and they are working but i need the CV slider to be enabled so only solution is 6.5.2.4 ver. I installed it and faced an error: drivers are not present etc... i tried to use intel DSA but it says i have no drivers to update. i dont really understand what the problem might be.. at my PC any version of XTU works fine. any thoughts? Only solution i found is to use quick CPU to manipulate the CV but this is alternative program and i'd like to solve this problem with XTU

I have an old PC that I am trying to fix. It didn't seem to power on at first but buying a similar used motherboard it kind of worked. The computer seems to have powered on. Sometimes it even gets to the splash screen (shuts down like 0.1 second after tho). I have already tried 2 GPU's, and like 5 PSU's (4 of them were 300 - 350 watts, and one of them was 450 watts, but that one didn't even get to the splash screen once). I've tried 8 RAM sticks, some of them did get to the splash, some didn't. Specs: Gigabyte GA-M57SLI-S4 (rev 2.0) - Motherboard AMD Athlon 64 X2 5600 - CPU Asus EN6600/TD/128M/A + Sapphire Radeon X1650 Pro Ultimate 256MB DDR3 - GPU's 4x Kingston KVR667D2N5/1G (In the image I provided, only one is inserted for troubleshooting resons) - RAM Arctic 64 - CPU Cooler FSP ATX-300PNF - Power supply PS: In the provided video, the splash screen did not show up. Cheers, Stephen 1547048523_VID_20230130_180443(1).mp4

I just had a new pc built, it has a asus tuf x570, ryzen 7 5800x, 32gb ram, zotac rtx 3060 & a 850w psu. My monitor is a gigabyte m32uc. Whenever I boot up my pc it turns the monitor on, I get the asus tuf animation & then it goes black, I know the monitor Is on & I can hear sounds but again the screen is black. In order for me to see my home screen in windows I have to power the monitor off and turn it back on again every time. I can't figure out what's wrong & there is no led indicator coming from the mb. I also have a webcam & printer connected to the pc. It wasn't an issue when I was testing it with a 1080p monitor.

Hi all, I just updated my TUF 4090 non OC to 531.41 (had the same problem with 531.29 prev.) and both my monitors (2x zowie 2730 (144hz)) went black. I tried switching back to the older version but still the same problem. I interchanged the DP cables but they are not the Problem. I then saw that the first monitor is running on 60 hz instead of the usual 144hz. So I switched the second Monitor to 120 hz and it works. I then changed back to 144hz and it went black again. Same happens with the other Monitor. I went around this with switching both Monitors to 120hz but I have a few games a I can not play because I get a black screen when I start them. I also have turned off the forced Gsync in the Nvidia Control Panel, but that also did not help. Maybe anyone has had a similar experience and knows a work around or fix? Thanks & have great weekend

Hello, this is my summarized Home Network Diagram. Hardware Used: 1. Wiring - CAT6 UTP Cable with Closed Ended RJ45 (Self Crimped) from Fiber Modem to Router 2. 2. Fiber Modem (ONT) - Huawei EchoLife HG8245H with 4 Gigabit Port 3. Unmanaged Switch - Tenda SG105 (with 5 Gigabit Ports) - Connected via LAN 2 from Modem and Connected to Passive PoE LAN Port 4. Passive Gigabit PoE Injector and Splitter - Generic (see attached image)- PoE to PoE connection using CAT6 UTP around 60 meters length with some running on outdoor wall (far from powerlines and other electronics) 5. Router 2 (Upstairs Router) - Tenda AC23 - Gigabit WAN and LAN ports (AP Mode connected via WAN from Passive Gigabit PoE LAN port) Additional Hardware (No Issues) 6. Router 1 (Downstairs Router - besides Fiber Modem) - Tenda AC21 - Gigabit WAN and LAN ports (AP Mode connected via WAN from Modem) Issues: Configuration 1A - Current Setup. With my current setup, the link speed recognized by the Fiber Modem on LAN 2 is 100Mbps Full Duplex Mode. Connected to the Router 1, the speed test (using Ookla) reading (using 5GHz Connection via Android Phone) Exceeded 100Mbps, around 150Mbps+ (Internet limited plan to 100Mbps). Connected to the Router 2, the speed test (using 5GHz) does not exceed 100Mbps around 90Mbps at best. Configuration 1B - Current Setup after a Power Outage. Currently the Modem Reported 1000Mbps Full Duplex Mode (due to power outage, all routers restarted) but readings are still similar Configuration 2 - No Gigabit PoE With PoE injector and splitter remove, connected directly to Switch and Router 2 (still Port 2 and WAN) the Fiber Modem reports 100Mbps. Results are similar to the Configuration 1A. Configuration 3 - No Switch Connecting Router 2 (WAN Port) to Modem (LAN Port 2) via Straight CAT6 resulting to the router and modem disconnecting and connecting with a span of seconds (5 seconds at most) with link speed reporting between 10Mbps and 100Mbps Full Duplex Mode. But when the connection is stable at best it is reporting 10Mbps. Tried using Crossover CAT6 using Female to Female RJ45 and Additional Crossover CAT6 with less than 2meter length. Configuration 4 - Connected to Router 1 Connecting Router 2 (WAN Port) to Router 1 (LAN Port 2) via Straight CAT6 resulting to consistent connection with readings at best of around 9 Mbps. Assuming the link speed would be 10 Mbps. No Reporting of LAN Port link speed on the firmware. I would like to know some solutions to my network to use 1 Gbps link speeds for full capacity of the routers, as well as future proofing. Thank you for your help and responds.

Hello, so I have a NW-700 and I am getting a horrible hissing sound that I can't fix with any of my computers software, it is connected to a Phantom PSU. Microphone: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Broadcasting-Microphone-Adjustable/dp/B00XOXRTX6 Mixer: https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Mix-Mix5-5-Channel-Mixer/dp/B00ND1K8T6/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Mix5&qid=1611957377&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-2 Some of the other topics I have seen just tell me to change my enhancements in my audio tab but there is no enhancements tab. Gain: -20Db Level: Unity Output Level: Max

Hi, today i started my pc like every day and it ran just fine. I opened amd software cuz i saw some update or notification (i don't remember) and i saw option on top right corner where if u have 2 monitors u have 3 buttons. I clicked button or right 3 times and now me second acer monitor shows imput not supported and first benq monitor shows no signal. I need help with unclicking that button. When i plug only benq (dvi) monitor everything works but if only acer (hdmi) then screen is blank. Both monitors works when i run windows in safe mode but I can't even open and software to change that button. Pls help

Hi, I just purchased a Logitech G813 and when I plug it to my desktop, the keyboard aluminum frame seems be leaking electricity and shocking me every time I touch it. I thought it is an issue, so I went back to the shop to swap for another unit and it seems to have the same issue. so I went back to the shop again and the shop told me this is normal for keyboard with aluminum top. Would like to ask if anyone know is this normal? and if so is there a way to remedy it? My PC Specs is as below: Mobo: B450 AORUS ELITE CPU: Ryzen 5 2600 Graphics: Zotac RTX 2060 OC Ram: 8 GB * 4 Case: MSI VAMPIRIC 010 PSU: FSP hyper k 600w 80+ CPU Cooler: BeQuiet Shadow Rock 3 Fans: ID-Cooling XF-12025-SD-K * 6 *pc and monitors are connected via APC 800VA EASY-UPS

i'm having an issue on xbox part on PC with following or friending people

So I just bought all the components for my new desktop I'm building but I'm having trouble getting my graphics card to fit completely in the pcie slot as well as sit flush against the computer case... I started off doing a bench test and had the motherboard sitting outside of the case and attached everything to it. At this point, the graphics card went fully into the pcie slot no problem and everything booted and worked just fine. But then I installed it all in my case everything except my graphics card would seat properly. The back I/O panel is perfectly aligned so I don't think the motherboard is in the incorrect position... but when I try to put in the graphics card, it's like the metal plate gets stuck on the back of the case where you screw down and secure the pcie IO shield before the card can slide all the way into the pcie slot. I can't seem to latch the card down when it is inside the case like this. This is my gear. Motherboard: MSI X570 Godlike GPU: Asus Tuff RTX 3070 Case: Couger Panzer Max-G Both the motherboard and the case are EATX form factor and it is very easy to install the motherboard inside the case. I am using the standard standoffs that came with the case already pre-installed for the motherboard offset. It's like the card can almost make a full connection, but is just short of making it by a couple of millimeters.... Out of curiosity, I tried a USB C 4 port expansion PCIe card and it had similar difficulties seating all the way. Then I used a M.2 Xpander Card that came with my motherboard and it installed into the pcie slot effortlessly. I then swapped the old Radeon Powercolor GPU from my old ATX tower and it installed into the new case and booted with no issue as well... I'm not sure why I'm having such trouble with the RTX 3070 here. I'm wondering if I wasn't pushing it hard enough. But how much pressure is too much pressure? What would you guys advise me to do for this issue? I am going to try loosening the screws on my motherboard and wiggling the card in tonight to see how far I get. But I'm not sure what else I can try after that. Edit: So I got it to work - I just had to push a little harder and then once it was in I had to gently lift on the pcie lock with a Spudger to lock the card in. Now everything is working right. Thanks for all your input!