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This might sound crazy, but despite being an Xbox player for quite a while, I cannot stand the 360 or original controller after using the Series X. Its quite annoying as I feel I've become a bit snobbish with my controllers. So I was wondering can a Series X controller be used on a 360 and are there third party controllers shaped and quality like the Series X that can be used on the original? My online search's didn't yield much so I've come to consult with the community that I refer to as the consult of the nerds. Don't worry thats not an insult, I'm on the same forum as you after all. lol

So, I don't know if this is the correct place to post this, if it isn't please remove it and accept my sincere apologies. Hiya, So, I'm disabled and I play the WWE 2k games a lot, unfortunately the submission system is button mashing, which I can't do. Previously with 2k22 I was able to use hold to repeat in big picture to help me, unfortunately after a steam update months ago, it no longer seems to work with either 22 or 23. I know that my controller configs work, as my alternative mappings are there, but turbo itself, No dice. I wondered if anyone could help fix it or reccomend alternate software that will work any help would be appreciated, I use an xbox controller (with extended support driver)

Summary Inclusive GameWerks, a Colorado startup, has developed a hexagonal pinball controller with three buttons, offering enhanced accessibility for individuals with disabilities. Inspired by a founder's experience with spinal muscular atrophy, the controller is an important step for inclusivity in pinball. Quotes My thoughts It's really encouraging to see A) state funding for accessibility initiatives and B) otherwise regular people (not already working in the accessibility space) jumping into action when they see someone impacted. Seems like this group has been quite busy developing solutions for pinball machines, so maybe in the future they could use their expertise to expand into arcade cabinets with similar accessibility concerns. Sources Main article (Denver Post): https://www.denverpost.com/2024/01/23/pinball-inclusive-controller-disabilities-colorado-brewery-gamewerks/ Previous coverage (Chicago Parent): https://www.chicagoparent.com/parenting/special-needs/pinball-expo-special-needs/ Website for the Colorado Disability Funding Committee: https://disabilityfundingcommittee.colorado.gov Note: Looks like they have a meeting tomorrow (2024-01-26) that's accessible via Zoom if anyone wants to tune in. It appears their agenda is supposed to be public, but it's a Google Doc that's private at the moment. I sent them an access request letting them know it's not public.

Hi, my ds4 controller that i was using for a long time just died. I was looking for a replacement and the KK2 was a good choice i think but soon the KK3 max gonna release on market. Do you think i should wait for the KK3 or just buy the KK2. P.S : im playing on pc, if you have any other controller in the 50-60$ price range that you would recommend and im in France so take eu market in consideration !

As the title suggests, my phones USB-C cable works perfectly fine with the controller, no batteries are in the controller too they are still brand new in the box. But my question is is there any downsides to just using my phones USB-C cable ? as soon as i connected it it worked perfectly fine with no issues, i heard people saying there is a difference between charging and data USB-C Cables but if it's a charging cable will it even work in the first place ?

Hello people, I had a question. I have lian li RGB fans and coolers and there is no connector for RGB lighting on my MSI-Z390-A Pro motherboard. Is there a controller that I can put on my motherboard so that the things light up?

This stupid thing decided to shit itself so the problem is somethign called a network controlller and bluetooth is missing and despite re-installing the WIFI driver it is still being stupid and refuses to interwebs! What the H is a Network Controller and why is it needed for wifi plus where can I get a driver for it?!!

I am troubleshooting for a friend and narrowed it down to the ram controller. He has an z170 board so its skylake or the generation before. It wont start with a 3 short beep - beepcode which means that something is up with the ram. The ram sticks are totally fine and different ram wont do the trick. The only thing left is the ram controller which is either on the cpu or the northbridge. I can't find any useful information online which is why i am asking here. I dont want to tell him to buy a new motherboard only to realise that he needs a new cpu.

hi there, so i really want to use an old 3rd party xbox 360 wired controller on my ps4, but obviously it doesn't just work so i was wondering if anyone knew of an adapter that would make it work. i already know that a chronus zen/max would work, but they are pricey. is there anything cheaper?

I recently purchased a Midnight Black controller and I want to check if my controler is authentic/original. Mine has a model number of CFI-ZCT1J. But I don't know how to check further if mine is not fake.

I can play GTA: San Andreas with a PS4 controller on my iPhone. I can install and play the iOS-version of GTA: San Andreas on my M1 Mac from the Mac App Store. But how do I use the PS4 controller with iOS games on my M1 Mac? I can activate a "controller simulation" feature from the app menu, but it wants to use the keyboard and trackpad. The controller is connected via Bluetooth, and when I press the PS-button my Mac shows a folder with games. Anyone with a M1 Mac that can use a PS4 controller to run iOS games from the Mac App Store?

Hi forum, so recently I started looking for a controller and it seems like there are just too much of them. I am looking something in 100 usd range, so the Xbox Elite 2 Core is fine, but maybe there is something better for lower price. So far I have looked on the 8Bitdo Ultimate, Flydigi Vader 3 Pro, GuliKit KingKong 2 Pro, Xbox series x/s. I think it is best to mention that I am planning on playing platformers (like terraria, move or die, celeste, etc.), fighters(like MK11 or Injustice 2), roguelikes (like Dead Cells, Bind of Isaac, ETG, Hades), I don`t think I will be playing any fps games as I use keyboard and mouse, but it may change. ENGLISH IS NOT MY NATIVE LANGUAGE, NOT EVEN 2ND LANGUAGE. PLEASE FORGIVE ME FOR ANY CONFUSION AND/OR MISUNDERSTANDING THAT MAY HAPPEN BECAUSE OF IT

Hello. I recently purchased a Mag Forge 112R case, which included an ARGB controller which is powered by SATA. Got all my components in the case, wired up everything, and turned it on just fine (this was yesterday). Fans worked, ARGB worked, all seemed well. I put the PC on my porch (don't ask why, i have my reasons) and also fixed the cable management a bit there, and left it on the porch overnight. Now on the second day when i power it on, the ARGB just, doesn't work? however the fans do spin. And if you're wondering, no it did not rain. Ive tried multiple sata ports, nothing. reconnected things, still nothing. Im out of ideas. What the hell caused this, and how do i fix it? if I even can. Really disappointed honestly, didn't expect to run into something like this within 2 days of owning the case. Thanks for any help.

I just upgraded to a new pc and hooked up my samsung hmd odyssey +, everything works except that my left controller doesn't boot past standby mode, I'm able to do button inputs but it refuses to light the rest of the way up and start tracking. the only real applicable difference I can think of is that on my old computer I had a usb blutooth adapter, but now I'm using a "GIGABYTE Z590 AORUS ELITE AX LGA 1200 Intel Z590" motherboard with it built in with an externally connected antenna, which I don't see why that would be an issue though because the right controller works fine without any issues, I found another thread where neither were working and followed the instructions of deleting and reinstalling/pairing the controllers multiple times but still only the right one works correctly, everything did work before on my previous computer without issue and as near as I can tell if anything it should be working better full specs: intel core i5 11600k gigabyte z590 aorus elite ax 32 gb ram (2x16) gskill ripjaws v series pc4 32000 evga 750 watt psu gtx 1060 6gb

I am connecting my 8bitdo sn30 pro+ controller to my laptop by using my spare usb wire which is crap quality. I have been using that usb wire for a few months to connect the controller to the right usb port of my laptop and there were no problems. On July 2 I connected the controller to the left usb port of my laptop and also I removed the battery from the controller. On July 4 I was playing a game on my laptop. I entered a new screen and then suddenly the character that I am controlling moved nonstop to the left when I moved the character down by using the controller stick and I wasn't moving the character to the left. I quit the game and I redid that part. There was no nonstop movement to the left. On July 7 I was playing another game on my laptop. I ran the game and I loaded my saved game. The same problem happened again and the character that I am controlling moved nonstop to the left when I moved the character down by using the controller stick and I wasn't moving the character to the left. I quit the game and I loaded my saved game. There was no nonstop movement to the left. I thought that my controller stick had gone bad and it got drift so I thoroughly cleaned my controller with rubbing alcohol and I set a large deadzone on the controller stick. On July 8 I continued playing the game. I loaded the saved game and I moved the character to a bar and I did the required things. There were no problems moving the character in the bar. The character exited the bar automatically when I did all the required things there but then he turned around to face the door and I wasn't touching the stick. I moved the controller stick to the right and the character moved to the right but after that he moved nonstop to the left when I released the stick. I opened the main menu and went to the subtitle options and I was able to scroll left and right and there was no nonstop scrolling to the left. I closed the main menu and the character stopped moving nonstop to the left. I redid the part in the bar and the character did no turn around and face the door after he automatically exited the bar. It looks like the nonstop movement to the left is because of a communication problem between the controller and the game and not that the controller stick had gone bad because the nonstop movement to the left went away by doing things like quitting the game and running it again and also by opening the main menu. I did some research and I found this https://www.reddit.com/r/8bitdo/comments/z6kbps/8bitdo_ultimate_bluetooth_controller_stick_drift/. It says that you can get drift if you use the controller on low battery. The right side of the laptop only has usb a port. The left side of the laptop has usb a port and usb c port next to each other. The left side and the right side of the laptop get a certain amount of electricity. There is only a usb a port in the right side of the laptop so it gets all the electricity which is available on the right side of the laptop. The usb a port and usb c port on the left side have to share the electricity which is available on the left side of the laptop. Thus the right usb a port gets more electricity than the left usb a port. Also I have 2 external hard disks which are Transcend and Wd. I am using a usb c to micro usb wire to connect them to my laptop. If I connect the Wd to the left usb c port of my laptop then it will disconnect\reconnect during file copy and I have to repeat the file copy. That doesn't happen when I connect the Wd to the right usb c port of another laptop by using the same usb wire. Also if I connect the Transcend to the left usb c port of my laptop by using the same usb wire then there are no problems and it doesn't disconnect\reconnect during file copy. Thus it looks like the left side of my laptop has problems with providing enough electricity to some devices and that's why the Wd disconnects\reconnects during file copy. I have a theory about why I am getting nonstop movements to the left when I connected the controller to the left usb a port by using my spare crap quality usb wire. Since the usb wire is crap quality then not all of the electricity is going from the laptop to the controller When I connect the controller to the right usb a port then it gets just enough electricity to work ok. When I connect the controller to the left usb a port then it's getting less electricity because the port gives less electricity than the right usb a port and the wire is not sending all the electricity to the controller thus I think that it's not getting enough electricity to work ok and I get the same thing as running the controller on a low battery when it's not plugged in. What do you think about my theory? How do I solve the problem? I have to buy a better quality usb wire for my controller and I have to connect the controller to the right usb a port?

Every time I open games they detect my Dualsense but doesn’t respond to any of my inputs until I hot plug it. I can’t find anything related to this online, can somebody point me in the right direction so I know what’s causing the issue?

Budget (including currency): $50? Country: United States Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: everything Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): n/a Currently working on upgrading from 7th gen to 13th gen Intel, I have everything planned out and I think it looks super clean (founders edition 4070 looks a tad out of place and small lol) So, I have this Asus M.2 PCIE 4th gen adapter, and it matches the board nice, except for the bare black PCB on the back side, under my GPU. Imo, it looks very bland. I wanted to know if anyone had any opinions on it, I was looking into if it would be safe to paint the PCB white, with safety precautions for the connections on the back, or if maybe I could aquire a brushed aluminum backplate to match everything else? Let me know what you think. (Side note. I use the adapter to make a M.2 raid 0 array from used 256gb drives that are in good running condition at work (I work as on site IT support))

So i arleady picked parts for a new pc, but im not sure about the fan and argb controller, will this controller be good enough for 5 argb fans and 1 normal, also im going to plug AIO fans into it, so will it be able to controll them differently from the rest of the fans? and if there is something wrong with this controller tell me if you have better options. also im buying the lianli 216 rgb, and it supposedly has a controller arleady, but i have no idea if its also for the rgb, and if it will have enough ports for all the fans.

Hello i just recently bought and received my PowerA controller which is this : https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B095JNZGC4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 I know that it is PC compatible however when i connect my controller to my pc nothing literally happened and my PC seems it does not recognise it. I've looked on how to fix this but all of them talk about going to device manager and finding your controller there but the problem is that my PC does not recognise/see my controller being connected. How do i fix this? Thanks.

Reducing Single Points of Failure in Redundant Storage In lots of the storage builds that exist here on the forum, the primary method of data protection is RAID, sometimes coupled with a backup solution (or the storage build is the backup solution). In the storage industry, there are load of systems that utilize RAID to provide redundancy for customers' data. One key aspect of (good) storage solutions is being resistant to not only drive failures (which happen a LOT), but also failure of other components as well. The goal is to have no single point of failure. First, let's ask: What is a Single Point of Failure? A single point of failure is exactly what it sounds like. Pick a component inside of the storage system, and imagine that it was broken, removed, etc. Do you lose any data as a result of this? If so, then that component is a single point of failure. By the way, from this point forward a single point of failure will be abbreviated as: SPoF Let's pick on looney again, using his system given here. Looney's build contains a FlexRAID software RAID array, which is comprised of drives on two separate hardware RAID cards running as Host Bus Adapters, with a handful of iSCSI targeted drives. We'll just focus on the RAID arrays for now, since those seem like where he would store data he wants to protect. His two arrays are on two separate hardware RAID cards, which provide redundancy in case of possible drive failures. As long as he replaces drives as they fail, his array is unlikely to go down. Now let's be mean and remove his IBM card, effectively removing 8 of his 14 drives. Since he only has two drives worth of parity, is his system still online? No, we have exceeded the capability of his RAID array to recover from drive loss. If he only had this system, that makes his IBM card a SPoF, as well as his RocketRaid card. However, he has a cloud backup service, which is very reliable in terms of keeping data intact. In addition, being from the Kingdom of the Netherlands, he has fantastic 100/100 internet service, making the process of recovering from a total system loss much easier. See why RAID doesn't constitute backup? It doesn't protect you from a catastrophic event. In professional environments, lots of storage is done over specialized networks, where multiple systems can replicate data to keep it safe in the event of a single system loss. In addition, systems may have multiple storage controllers (not like RAID controllers) which allow a single system to keep operating in the event of a controller failure. These systems also run RAID to prevent against drive loss. In systems running the Z File System (ZFS) like FreeNAS or Ubuntu with ZFS installed, DIY users can eliminate SPoFs by using multiple storage controllers, and planning their volumes to reduce the risk of data loss. Something similar can be done (I believe) with FlexRAID. This article aims to provide examples for theoretical configurations, and will have some practical real-life examples as well. It also will outline the high (sometimes unreasonably high) cost of eliminating SPoF for certain configurations, and aim to identify more efficient and practical ones. Please note: There is no hardware RAID control going on here, all software RAID. When 'controllers' are mentioned, I am referring to the Intel/3rd party SATA chipsets on a motherboard, an add-in SATA controller (Host Bus Adapter), or an add-in RAID card running without RAID configured. The controllers only provide the computer with more SATA ports, and it is the software itself which controls the RAID array. First, lets start with hypothetical situations. We have a user with some drives who wants to eliminate SPoFs in his system. Since we can't remove the risk of a catastrophic failure (such as a CPU, motherboard or RAM failure), we'll ignore those for now. We can, however, reduce the risk of downtime due to a controller failure. This might be a 3rd party chipset, a RAID card (not configured for RAID) or other HBA which connects drives to the system. RAID 0 will not be considered, since there is no redundancy. Note: For clarification, RAID 5 represents single-parity RAID, or RAID Z1 (ZFS). RAID 6 represents dual-parity RAID, or RAID Z2. RAID 7 represents triple-parity RAID, or RAID Z3. Note: FlexRAID doesn't support nested RAID levels. [spoiler=Our user has two drives.] Given this, the only viable configuration is RAID 1. In a typical situation, we might hook both drives up to the same controller and call it a day. But now that controller is a SPoF! To get around this, we'll use two controllers, and set up the configuration as shown: Now, if we remove a controller, there is still an active drive that keeps the data alive! This system has removed the controllers as a SPoF. [spoiler=Our user has three drives.] With three drives, we can do either a 3-way RAID 1 mirror, or a RAID 5 configuration. Let's start with RAID 1: Remembering that we want to have at least 2 controllers, we can set up the RAID 1 in one of two ways, shown below: In this instance, we could lose any controller, and the array would still be alive. Now let's go to RAID 5: In RAID 5, a loss of more than 1 drive will kill the array. Therefore, there must be at least 3 controllers to prevent any one from becoming an SPoF, shown below: Notice that in this situation, we are using a lot of controllers given the number of drives we have. Note also that the more drives a RAID 5 contains, the more controllers we will need. We'll see this shortly. [spoiler=Our user has four drives.] We'll stop using RAID 1 at this point, since it is very costly to keep building the array. This time, our options are RAID 5, RAID 6 and RAID 10. We'll start with RAID 5, for the last time. Remembering the insight we developed last time, we'll need 4 controller for 4 drives: This really starts to get expensive, unless you are already using 4 controllers in your system (we'll talk about this during the practical examples later on). Now on to RAID 6: Since RAID 6 can sustain two drive losses, we can put two drives on each controller, so we need 2 controllers to meet our requirements: In this situation, the loss of a controller will down two drives, which the array can endure. Last is RAID 10: Using RAID 10 with four drives gives us this minimum configuration: Notice that for RAID 10, we can put one drive from each RAID 1 stripe on a single controller. As we'll see later on, this allows us to create massive RAID 10 arrays with a relatively small number of controllers. In addition, using RAID 10 gives us the same storage space as a RAID 6, but with smaller worst-case redundancy. Given four drives, the best choices look like RAID 6and RAID 10, with the trade-off being redundancy (RAID 6is better) versus speed (RAID 10 is better). [spoiler=Our user has five drives.] For this case, we can't go with RAID 5, since it would require 5 controllers, and can't do RAID 10 with an odd number of drives. However, we do have RAID 6 and RAID 7. We'll start with RAID 6: Here we need at least 3 controllers, but one controller is underutilized: For RAID 7, we get 3 drives worth of redundancy, so we can put 3 drives on each controller: In this case, we need two controllers, with one being underutilized. [spoiler=Our user has six drives.] We can now start doing some more advanced nested RAID levels. In this case, we can create RAID 10, RAID 6, RAID 7, and RAID 50 (striped RAID 5). RAID 10 follows the logical progression from the four drive configuration: RAID 6 becomes as efficient as possible, fully utilizing all controllers: RAID 7 also becomes as efficient as possible, fully utilizing both controllers: RAID 50 is possible by creating two RAID 5volumes and striping them together as a RAID 0: Notice that we have reduced the number of controllers for a single-parity solution, since we can put one drive from each stripe onto a single controller. This progression will occur later as well, when we start looking at RAID 60 and RAID 70. We can obviously do a RAID 10, but now we can also venture into the realm of RAID 70 (striped RAID 7), in addition to RAID 60. Our RAID 60 is slightly underutilized: Finally, we have our RAID 70: Our RAID 70 is relatively inefficient (using 12 drives would be better, with six drives per controller). However, it allows for increased performance in addition to providing a huge amount of redundancy for this setup. This is definitely not recommended for anything other than mission-critical data or perhaps priceless memories (wedding video/photos, important docs, etc.) In this case, we can do either a RAID 50 or RAID 7, both of which require 3 controllers: For RAID 50, we have 3 stripes of RAID 5: For RAID 7, we have 3 controllers which are all fully utilized: Both configurations give us 6 drives worth of space for 3 controllers, with the tradeoff, once again, being worst-case redundancy (RAID 7 is better) versus speed (RAID 50 is better). For configurations with more drives, we aren't going to look at RAID 7, since we'll require more controllers. With eight drives, we can jump into the realm of RAID 60 (striped RAID 6 volumes). We also have the options of RAID 10, RAID 50, and RAID 7. RAID 10 looks just like it did before: RAID 50 looks similar, but now we need more controllers since each volume has more drives: RAID 7 looks pretty similar too: RAID 60 looks pretty efficient with this number of drives. Logically progressing from RAID 50, we can have two drives per stripe on one controller, for 4 drives per controller. This lets us use only two controllers: Like we had for four drives, we now have a tradeoff between worst-case redundancy and speed between RAID 60 and RAID 10.

A couple days ago I noticed my controller had stopped working. It turned on and connected to the wireless adapter for the PC, but it wasn't detected by the online gamepad tester and didn't work with Steam games. Later I found out that it works fine with the Xbox Accesories app and the Steam big picture mode menu. I already tried: - updating Windows (I have Windows 10) - seeing if the controller works while directly connected via a wire - seeing if my other controller worked (I have a Series X controller and an Xbox One controller) None of these things changed anything. I would appreciate any help.

Hi all, looking for some advice. I have been a controller gaming nerd for all my life, starting with the PS 1. I have always had a place in my heart for PS style (symmetric) controllers, always hated the XBOX style ones. With that said, I have been using the junky logitech gamepad controllers (wired and wireless models) for the past few years and found them to get progressively worse with each succeeding one that I purchased. Each one has either gotten horribly unfixable stick drift or has a broken trigger. I have opened them up to try to repair them, I'm a cheapwad its what I do, and had no success. The only thing that I really liked about this model was the compatibility with XBOX games. I play Star Wars Battlefront II and older FPS and RPGs. Honestly, I try to take good care of my controllers, I keep them nice and clean and safe on my desk. I was wanting some advice as to a good controller model that had the PS style layout, but was of decent build quality and can take more than 1 month of usage. I am fine with wired or wireless models. AND (and this is to all the trolls who want to say that I am a loser for using controllers) PLEASE DO NOT SAY THAT I NEED TO GET A MOUSE AND KEYBOARD! I hate that style of gaming. I have my mouse and keyboard config that I like and I use it for work and college. I have tried gaming with keyboard and mouse and in my opinion, they suck. I will take the lower movement and control any day to play with what I am comfortable with. It isn't too bad, I still can keep up with the keyboard mouse ninjas, lol. But anyway, thanks in advance guys! WeTuLo

Hi there, i had an accident and just now able to access the internet and RE4 Remake is out. I probably won't be able to play the game for at least a month but i want to hear your opinions on this. I played the OG RE4 on a PC and PS2, i find it very difficult to play the game using keyboard and mouse but i think its probably due to poor PC optimization on the control department. And then i switched to PS2 Controller on my PC and i am kicking zombie ass with it. Not sure with the remake especially with the laser dot excluded. If you already played the remake please share your experience. Thank you in advance

I recently acquired a sas card but I can't figure out how to set it up properly! I'm new to this and I naively started looking for some software, driver or utility to install, but later found a documentation pointing out the "ctlr+h" key combo at boot. Problem is that when I try to do this (as shown in the picture below) right after it blinks "WebBIOS will be executed after POST complete", the screen turns black and it either reboots to windows or hangs indefinitely with the black screen doing nothing... If WebBIOS means it needs netowrk (which I don't think) I'm connected through a working network card. I've seen other SAS Controller cards with batteries and think it's just for protection in case of power loss, but mine in any case doesn't have it if even if I'm not sure it's the culprit... This is my card: It was advertised as "LSI 2208", and this is the Amazon link where I got it. Unfortunately I had to wait around a month before trying it out as I had been busy at work and can't return it now, so I really hope I can manage it to make it work! Thank you in advance Edit: In the boot screen picture it says there are 0 virtual drives, I'm not sure if it's related, but actually I have a SFF-8087 to 4 SATA cable connected to 4 drives, 2 of which have a windows software raid mirroring, and the other 2 are normal blank drives..

Okay, I just recently bought 2 packs of Corsair SP120 RGB PRO fans. Unfortunately, my motherboard doesn't have connectors for 6 fans and the hub these fans come with only control the RGB. They don't power the fans. What would be my best choice to getting these fans hooked up and running? A splitter? I really don't know. This is my first time dabbling with RGB and boy has it not started off strong. Thanks in advance, guys.