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I recently found out that Corsair discontinued the MX blue switches for their K70 lux RGB keyboards and I can't find them anywhere so i would like to know if anyone is selling one or found a website that is selling one.

I probably should've done this sooner but since I was & still am broke (not for long) it had to be put off. Currently the only form of backup my personal files have is a 16GB Patriot Xporter XT USB 2.0 stick & my Galaxy S7's internal storage. I would like to very soon update that USB to a 32GB or greater USB. In addition I'd like an internal contingency plan as well, although right now the only one I'm aware of that fits the bill is a 1TB Western Digital Black. 7200RPM is a must & although I know WD Blue offers that at a much cheaper price, I prefer a 5 year manufacturers warranty's wherever possible. 1a: If I decided to just get a 256GB Patriot Supersonic Magnum 2, is there a way I can use that like a bootable internal HDD & mirror or image my OS + all files to it? 2a: Even though it's USB 3.1 Gen. 1, would that still be too slow even compared to an Internal WD Black? 3: If neither of the above choices are optimal, should I just get a 1TB WD Black for OS + 32GB USB for personal files? 4: Does Seagate make a 1TB 7200RPM HDD with a 5 year warranty priced similar & with the same or better durability as a WD Black?

Hi everyone, I've been in and out of the tech world for some time now, but I'm coming backing into it again. Before I used to game quite frequently, now I rarely play more than 1 hour a week. Now I'm much more focused in work and I have been wanting a mechanical keyboard for some time now. I have been considering a Cherry MX Blue or Brown, but I think I'm leaning over to the Blues. I don't share a room with anyone so the noise won't bother anyone else. I've tested out the Blackwidow and those Kahil Greens are really similar to Blues(at least most people say they are) and the noise of those doesn't both me. I have been trying to find a keyboard with Blues for some time now, and I just can't seem to find the right one. All I need is a backlight, a Number pad, wrist rest and a non-gamery font. That's it, and it's unbelievably hard to find this. Can anyone recommend me a reliable keyboard to use over then next few years?

AMD New Horizon will be available in 5 hrs (as of the post writing) Link will available soon Starting at 3pm CST December 13 Here is when you can observe it in your local time (all time are same date unless stated otherwise): North America Vancouver, Reno, Seattle, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Las Vegas: 1pm Edmonton, Calgary, Denver, Salt Lake city: 2pm Winnipeg, Saskatoon, Regina, Mexico city, Kansas city, Chicago: 3pm Ottawa, Toronto, Montreal, Quebec, New York, Washington DC, Miami: 4pm Central America aka Captain Jack Sparrow's home and South America Havana, Nassau, Port-Au-Prince, Lima, Panama: 6pm Santo Domingo, La Paz: 7pm Buenos Aires, Santiago: 8pm Rio de Janeiro, Sao Paolo: 9pm Europe London, Reykjavik, Dublin: 9pm Paris, Rome, Madrid, Berlin, Brussels, Amsterdam: 10pm Athens, Riga, Kiev, Bucharest: 11pm Istanbul, Moscow: 12am December 14 Africa: Casablanca: 9pm Lagos: 10pm Cairo, Cape Town: 11pm Mogadishu: 12am December 14 Asia Karachi: 2am December 14 Delhi, Mumbai: 2:30am December 14 Jakarta, Bangkok: 4am December 14 Hong Kong, Beijing, Manila: 5am December 14 Tokyo: 6am December 14 Down under Perth: 5am December 14 Darwin, Adelaide: 6:30am December 14 Brisbane: 7am December 14 Sydney, Canberra, Melbourne: 8am December 14 Wellington: 10pm December 14 See if your city is missing (don't tell me you live in some rural region and demands to be in here) Answer the poll if you gonna watch it

Fellow Techies, I hope everyone is doing well and is being good, as Santa gets really watchful as Christmas gets closer. I have a Thermaltake Level 10 GT. I have enjoyed this case. Like everything in life there are pros and there are cons. The con that it is getting on my nerves and it will be the piece of straw that breaks the camels back is the d@mned BLUE LEDs for the power button and HDD light. I HATE the color blue. These two lights are obnoxiously bright and blue. How can I turn them into green? Orange is fine but I would prefer green. I thank you for your time. If anyone has had or has this same case, you know/will know what kind of issue I have. The LED can't just simply be replaced. It is stupidly small. Thank you in advanced and I am willing to make and post pictures. Also, I would really like to keep these light powered as it will make me feel a little better..... I know it has the LED fan on the front, but I grew up learning from my pc repairing dad to look for the power/hdd LED and it is a habit that is hard to break.... kinda like coke....... no I don't have a problem!.... *sniff*

Below is a link of what I'm experiencing with my computer. Every so often it happens. I don't know what triggers it. It occurs often when there's blue on my computer screen. When this usually happens, I undo what I did like closing the application or going to desktop. Is this a GPU issue? https://gyazo.com/9e206b4d80aa3f544fb9aaf3b126f802 Incase it matters, the PC is a gtx 760, i5 4690, 8gb ram

I want a black-blue mobo but can't find any! I have a 6700K, 16GB of RAM (I can change the DDR type according to the mobo), and a GTX 1070. If I need to change the CPU or anything to get the mobo to be compatible then I will happily do so. Help?

Hello all! First of all, my specs : W10 Pro, build 1607 Intel Xeon e3-1245v3 ASUS H81I-Plus Gigabyte GTX 1070 Mini I have an issue with my Blue Snowball iCE. Whenever I record something, be it OBS, Audacity or Shadowplay, I keep hearing some random sound "artifacts". Especially in Shadowplay the recording really freaks out, having a constant hissing sound on the right side. I've tried updating any sound-relevant drivers I could find, but to no avail. The BIOS is up to date as well. Here's a small clip of a Shadowplay recording (uploaded to YT) . Sometimes it gets even worse and there's a constant and very aggressive white noise, but only on the right side. Is there anything more I could do to try and fix it?

Yeah, so I bought the https://www.amazon.com/EagleTec-KG010-Industrial-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B015MPQQ0A/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1480705368&sr=1-2&keywords=eagletec for around $30 when it was on sale. It has similar switches to cherry mx blues. I personally love hte sound it makes, but I can tell you that no ones else in the house will. I heard that .4mm is going to be the best for blue switches to reduce the noise they make when bottoming out. I can't find any .4mm thick ones on amazing for a reasonable price. I have seen .2mm for like $6 a pack, but I would need to double stack them making it $12 which is coming out to be half the price of the keyboard. Any suggestions?

i've been using a blue yeti USB mic for a few months now with zero issues. plugged in using the default cable, worked the second i bought it. i haven't updated my pc, or made any changes to drivers etc.. but the mic is now undetected completely by my computer. it's getting power to the mic (the red light still comes on) but it's not being detected AT ALL. i've tried using a different micro usb in a different usb slot on my pc, but nothing seems to be working. i even did a system restore to a few weeks back, and still nothing. i even tried using the mic on a different machine running a different OS. what can i do?

I was thinking about getting a new desk mount for my blue yeti mic, but the spacer on the left side of the shock mount appears to be stuck on. I have searched everywhere for a solution, but I think it hasn't really happened to anyone else. If anyone can help out that would be amazing.

Looking at getting a storage upgrade for my PC and was wondering wetheir the 2 tb WD blue drives are worth getting was looking at this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B018RW7GOU/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1

Just bought the Prospek Elite from Spektrum for $55. They're awesome and remind me of the BluBlockers I had when I was younger. I had the aviators which you can get two pairs for under $50 (source: https://www.blublocker.com/products/2-black-original-aviator-blublockers). I don't remember the quality of the lenses though. These Prospek Elite have a nice oleophobic lens that's super easy to keep smudge free. The only bad thing is there's no spring in the frame or whatever and I don't mind that there's no adjustable nose piece but some people might. Really feel like my eyes are more comfortable sitting on a computer all day and am a big fan of the glasses. Again, probably could have gotten the same performance from the BluBlockers though.

Hey all... on one of the recent LTT videos, Linus pulled out some old looking graphics card or something (can't remember) and it had that horrible old transparent blue acrylic fan on it.... that high school me thought was so cool and I used to mod my PSP with back in the day. Well, it got me all nostalgic. I was planning on building a new PC soon (current box still the first computer I ever built, original i7) and decided that I'd love to actually get as much of the old blue acrylic look as possible. I'm looking for any part suggestions. A whole case would be awesome, but what I've found so far doesn't look like it would hold up very well // lacks a lot of basic features I'd like. Has anyone seen anything on the market, case or otherwise, that would be great with this aesthetic? Reference

I just finished upgrading my pc from an old quad core i7 4790k at 4Ghz running with DDR3 at 1866Mhz, she got the job done over the many years but was starting to get quite slow so i finally decided that an upgrade was due. The old parts: Intel - i7 4790k Gigabyte - GA Z97X SLI Gaming Corsair - Vengeance Pro 16Gb at 1866Mhz (2x8) Thermaltake - Core P5 The new parts: Intel - i7 8700k Asus - ROG Strix Z370-F Gaming (Non-Wifi) Corsair - Vengeance Pro RGB 16Gb at 3000Mhz Phanteks - Evolv X Heres a list of the full specs: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/ExtreamChaozZ/saved/mz7sYJ I was plannig to OC my old build hence the "K" series but never got round to it and i didnt really know what i was doing, but for this build i went out of my way to ensure she was OC. I wanted a nice 5Ghz but was in the mid 90's at 100% load which i didn't like so i dropped her back to 4.8Ghz and now she sits around 80 to 85 max. While Idle im getting around 35 to 40, at first i thought that was too hot for idle but after some research i found out that other people have the same temperature and that the 8700k is just a hot chip. I got her to a 5Ghz on turbo though which was good enough for me. I still havent 100% completed the build but im like 95% there. Just need to make my custom cables now and i will probably invest in a 1Tb SSD and a 4Tb HDD to replace my current storage, except for my M.2. This was my first time bending PETG tubing and after getting the feel for it im really happy with the results, there are some imperfections which i notice but can only be seen if your actively looking for them under a bright light. I also intend to change the fans to the Corsair LL120 RGB fans so i can sync them up with iCue as well, but the pocket is running a little dry at the moment. I also decided to invest in a closed case as i was getting tired of cleaning my system of dust all the time, and so after a long time of looking around i finally decided on the Phanteks Evolv X. If you have the £200 quick to spend on your case then i highly recommend this case or any of the Phanteks cases, as they are extremely nice to build in and have all the bells and whistles you could need or room to add more. The only criticism i have about this case is how the SSD's are mounted, it can feel like your putting a lot of stress on the SATA cables but there is enough room there and everything closes nicely as it should. Before doing the upgrade i decided to run Cinebench to see what my score was. The i7 4790K got a wooping 797 points while the upgraded system scored just over double that at 1601. I got a screenshot of the new score but forgot to get a screenshot of the old one. Still need a name for her but cant think of anything unique, so if you have any ideas let me know. Now enough with the chit chat, heres what she looks like when booted up along side the Cinebench score.

I am wondering what is best Main or Aux for tp link archer t6e? It is auto by default but whats best to use. Plus should I Disable / Enable or set to Auto for Bluetooth Calibration I have no bluetooth devices so disable?

Hey, so for my senior project I decided to build a computer case. I pushed my self with a risk adventure which turned out better than I expected so far. I wanted to show off my case to hopefully get some opinions and different viewpoints on this case. I want to say that I fully design the case in cycles blender and the only thing that I fully didn't do was build the 20" by 20" chassis which was done by my mentor at my local tin shop. I am aware there are some imperfections which will be dealt with later just for a side note. I hope you guys find this build amusing to the eye. I will show some step by step processes that I did with photos. The photos do not obtain any of the hardware I will be putting inside besides the fans. CPU:Intel Core i7-7700k M/B: GIGABYTE AORUS GA-Z270X-Gaming K5 GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB 16GB DDR4 3200 STORAGE: Samsung 850 EVO 256GB SSD STORAGE: (2x) Seagate 2TB BarraCuda The design: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- UPDATE! I finished the final product which took me so long to do! I hope you guys enjoy!! It's a little messy I know but I'm going to work on the cable management a bit better. I would now like to present to you temperatures during idle and gaming TEMPS: CPU (Fan rpm was fixed at 1000 rpm during this test) Idle: 26C-32C Gaming: 29C-52C Blender: 32C-58C (CYCLES RENDER SAMPLES 1000) GPU Fan rpm was fixed at 40% on CAM (1450-1500 RPM) Idle: 25C-29C Gaming: 27C-40C Blender: 45C-53C (CYCLES RENDER SAMPLES 1000) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ The design took me 6 months to fully finalize use blender. Building the chassis at my local tin shop. I had a difficult time with designing the case when the chassis was built because I unintentionally sealed the back panel so I couldn't access the back of the computer in like in a standard case. Trying to decide to use either wood or acrylic. (which I used acrylic ) I was planning to use 3 fans for the top for intake, 3 fans on the back panel out the exhaust, and 2 fans on the bottom that circulates air under the cover. Drilling screw holes for fans: My first design for the air flow holes was drilling 8 by 8 holes for each fan (64) for 8 fans so 512 holes until I found a hole saw which was my best friend Using some engineering skills to make the legs of the case out of a smart robot I got from a tech store. (also don't mind the mess haha) Honestly, this was the part that I'm most proud of due to how oddly successful this was. The power supply and hardware cover was the hardest part. I went through 3 12" by 20" acrylic panels to finally finish this portion My first cover I broke in half which bending it with a heat gun, my second one I overpainted it with loads of drips and bubbles. Making sure everything fits (next 2 photos): You can see here that I went with the 64 holes for each fan on the back panel. This was before I found out about the hole saw. The outcome: Don't mind the nasty rgb strip (was for a test) This has honestly kicked my butt but I'm happy so far of how it turned out. If you have questions please do ask I would love to answer any questions. I know I left out a lot of the building process as well but this was just a short post. Please also leave feedback if wanted. It will really help me.

I got a blue snowball. I’m worring that I should of got the yeti. I will be using it for discord and other voice chat. Thanks in advance!

so guys, i wanted to upgrade storage in my laptop (it has a 1tb HDD), but i dont know whats the difference between the wd blue and green, in terms of speed or performance. is it worth the extra 15$? wd blue https://www.amazon.in/Western-Digital-250GB-Internal-S250G2B0B/dp/B073SBV3XX/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=m.2+ssd&qid=1581143994&sr=8-4 wd green https://www.amazon.in/Western-Digital-240GB-Internal-WDS240G2G0B/dp/B078WYS5K6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=m.2+ssd&qid=1581143994&sr=8-3 i live in india so the prices might be all wierd for other SSDs. thanks!

There's a white noise screech in the left ear of all of my blue yeti recordings. It's super annoying. I am using the aux out port at the bottom of the microphone to hear desktop audio and to also hear myself, and there's no noise there. The noise only comes when i either: 1. Record, and 2. Call someone on discord screech.wav

I turned on my PC just now and, after opening Google Chrome, the screen started turning blue and, after some 20 seconds or so, the screen turned black (The monitor does receive signal, just a blank one). I've tried to turn it on without the GPU, with each RAM stick individually (I use two 4GB ones), with no RAM at all and nothing seems to work. I've also checked and the Motherboard's battery is with full charge. No beeping was heard by the motherboard as well. What should I do? Specs: GPU: Nvidia GTX 1050 2gb CPU: Intel i3 (That's all I know) Mother: ASUS B85M-E RAM: 1x 4gb DDR3 by Kingston 1x 4gb DDR3 by One Memory

Hi All and Happy new year, I'm new here and trying to get some help. I'm trying to replace the 3 blue led fans on Aerocool quartz blue (https://www.aerocool.com.tw/en/chssis/pgs-b/quartz-blue) but it seems there's no way to remove the front panel. Is there anyone here successfully remove the fans without breaking the TG on the front panel? Thanks in advance.

I broke my mini usb port on my blue snowball ice a little while ago but i was wondering, what part i would need to buy to replace it? Also for some reason i have a Mini USB version instead of USB B version hopefully that doesnt cause problems. If you could link a video on how to install new part that would help too.

Specs; Motherboard: GIGABYTE B450M D3SH CPU: AMD Ryzen 25600 CPU Cooler: The NH-U12S chromax.black RAM: PNY Anarchy 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 2400MHz GPU: XFX Radeon R9 390 Black OC Edition SSD: Kingston A400 SATA SSD 240GB HD1: Toshiba P300 1TB HD2: WD Blue 2TB PSU: CX Series CX650M — 650 Watt 80 PLUS® Bronze Case: DeepCool TESSERACT SW Back and front case fans: Stock Case Fans Top and side panel case fans: DeepCool RF 120 B To Do List; * Upgrade CPU to Ryzen 9 3950X * Install second second fan on CPU heat sink * Upgrade RAM to 64GB * GPU Fan Swap * Install m.2 drive * Install more mechanical hard drives * Upgrade Power Supply

will a Corsair ML140 Pro LED 140mm Premium Mag-Lev Fan Blue fit in a NZXT H500i Matte White Smart Mid Tower Case ?