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Hello, I am working on a 3D printer for a friend, it is a GEEETECH I3 Pro. The controller board is the GT2560. I have adapted the printer to a clone chimera hotend, and have gotten it printing decently with the primary extruder. I have started to run into issues while slicing a 3dBenchy boat test print. During slicing, part of the print seems to be ignored by the software, leaving a void in the print. I will attach pictures for reference. I am using Slic3r 1.2.2 (I think, it is the version baked into Repetier host by default.) and will post pictures of my slicing settings. Any help is appreciated! Thanks!

Hi, I'm new to the forum but long time viewer. Ive been interested more and more lately with 3d printing and am considering getting one to try, first as a hobby and I'll see where it takes me. I've had no experience with 3d printing but I have had a little amount of use with Blender. I had seen some of the XYZ Da Vinci mini printers and wondered whether something like that, around the £200 mark would be a good way to start. If I were to get one it would be in July, as part of a birthday gift. Any advice is welcome, thanks.

Hey everybody, so I've almost finished putting together my Tronxy X1 and hit a snag: I'm supposed to connect the extruder motor. I also have a cable for that. but there's nowhere to put it in on the extruder. The extruder itself also has a few cables coming out of it, but they're for power for the hotend and the thermostat, as well as the cooling fan. Any help? Would be much, much appreciated... Cheers, John

Hi guys, I'm 8-Bit Builder. I've been doing this for about 10 years now and just starting up my newest build. I build cases in the an old pixelated style as you will see shortly :D. I've been wanting to build a Metroid computer case for about 7 years now but plastic was always too expensive ($1 a cube) compared to .08 cents a cube of wood which is what all my previous PC mods are made out of. Once I found out how accessible 3D printers were, I jumped head first and picked up a Maker Select. After a few months of non-stop printing it dawned on me that I could make the Metroid computer case I've been thinking about for such a long time. Normally I spend about 200-250$ in wood/paint but 3D printing plastic is really cheap in comparison, about $80 in plastic. I'm also planning on having a really cool light sequence on the inside of the case to get the red effect of the in game Metroid. Being my first foray into a 3D printed computer I'm sure I'll run into issues but look forward to overcoming them. This will also be my first time with programmable LED's so it will be a learning experience on that front also! I'm going with an ASUS STRIX for the Aura Sync capabilities since this case is going to have a big focus on lighting. The more advanced lighting will be done with the Tinkerboard. Expectations: A strong gaming pc 100s' of LEDs programmed inside for a light show 95% 3D printed Components: ASUS has sponsered/supplied me with components for this mod (Really appreciate it) and also in the past on my Airship PC Case seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cz5muWnFMmg ASUS ROG STRIX X370-I GAMING AM4 AMD X370 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 Mini ITX AMD Motherboard ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 TURBO-GTX1080-8G 8GB 256-Bit GDDR5X PCI Express 3.0 16 GB of ram 1TB SSD Asus Tinkerboard with a few hundred LEDs programmed in a cool light show And heres some photos of my past work: Airship from Final Fantasy Link from Zelda And a 3D model I've printed, Calcifer from Howl's Moving Castle Ok on to the build! This is what I'm building (modeled in 123Design/Tinkercad): Metroid from ...Metroid! The modeled case My first idea of how the components will fit I started printing and doing test pieces to make sure I had it down pretty good and to test strength of the frame. Needless to say, it holds a LOT of weight (I weigh 185lbs) I've got the printer going in earnest on the final design now. The printer will be going non-stop for about 2-3 weeks to get all the pieces done. I'll be back soon though with photos of attaching sections together with glue and 3D pen welding! If you have any questions or ideas, feel free to ask

So i recently bought a TEVO Tarantula, it is my first printer, i assembled it, but i want to use other programs than the ones directed to use, for creating objects, I'd like to use Autodesk Inventor, or something similar, but when i try printing it in Cura, it messes-up by printing next (top) layer(s) a good centimeter off than the bottom layer, and i cant find any problems with the printer, nor the programs, please help!

I have a cheap and (kinda) little printer. I was wondering if any one has suggestions for what i should print. I am also thinking about selling some prints. Where would a good place be to do that?

I am interested in 3D printing. I don't really want to spend a lot of money though. I found this kick starter, https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1403065126/trinus-the-affordable-all-metal-3d-printer/community Now everything about it looks good, except it uses Pango as a printing software. So is pango user friendly? Is it easy to work with? It can't be that bad if all I am doing in Pango is putting my STL file in and making sure it will properly print right? EDIT: I took a maker camp for 3D printing so I have basic knowladge of CAD software like Sketchup.

So I just got my first 3D Printer, here is my first working print. Thoughts?

I am looking into getting into 3D printing but I'm not sure what to get to start. I am quite a tinkerer so building my own is right up alley. Is it cheaper to build your own? I'm fine with difficulty as long as it doesn't require extensive programming (I know Java and a little bit of a few other languages but otherwise I'm still learning). I know that 3D printers have been getting cheaper so I wasn't sure if it was a better idea to buy one now of days. Ideas?

I was looking at something like a M3D or an Ultramaker Original. What's the actual difference in performance?

I am building a 3D printer for a school project, and I had some questions involving compatibility. I currently have decided on using a Ramps 1.4 shield for the Arduino Mega and some 200 steps/rev stepper motors that are mix and matched. I am currently somewhat following this instructable My question is in regards to which hot end to buy and the compatibility between them. Someone in the comments of this instructable said that they used the Ubis ceramic style hot end, but this is an expensive part. I was wondering if I could use an eBay one like this instead. link. I am quite new to the whole 3D printing scene and as much detail as possible would be much appreciated. I wasn't quite sure whether to post this in the support or in the general so apologies if I messed that up. Thanks

Amazon: http://geni.us/1wJB NCIX: http://bit.ly/1O1uZpR We finally entered the 3D printer game!! What crazy projects did Luke come up with for our first attempts?

This new method of 3d printing is pretty cool as it pulls the object out from a pool of plastic. Says its stronger because its solid plastic instead of layers, and its considerablly faster. I just wonder how exactly the object sticks to the build platform since it's inverted. Also, seems like it would have major size and weight issues as it stands right now. Source: http://www.vox.com/2015/3/16/8227627/3d-printing-liquid-continuous Ive watched WAN show for a long time but never posted on the forum. Hopefully im not messing up any guidelines.

Intro and Software Ill make this review short and simple. Its a great printer which can produce very detailed results in only PLA with some fine tuning and work. The printer does not natively accept STL files. you need to convert it using Dremel's software which is a bit like corsair's line of RGB mice and keyboards. It just plain sucks. It defaults at 220c and 80mm/s which is too fast and hot for good prints. I use 45mm/s and 200c. It won't let you compile things that it deems will fail in printing like a cup or bowl. To bypass, you need to add supports to objects using other 3d software or their meshmixer from Autodesk. Hardware The design of the printer is very nice in an enclose space with a magnetic door and removable top cover. It does get slightly hot in the printer and I leave the door and top of for my prints to cool faster. I usually stand a fan facing in if I am printing things like this. It came out just fine and was surprisingly detailed. I scaled it down and it came out just fine. I am now printing a larger version. The head is capable of many great prints. Unboxing and Support It was packaged extremely well. No chance of damage during shipping and had foam everywhere in the printer. They did not tell me you need to lift the base up to get the bottom foam out. I was able to print a few tests like a pencil holder in 10 minutes of unboxing. The foam will shed everywhere when you take it out. You are able to have two spools in the printer at a time, but you need to buy an extra mount for it. I tried to print one but once I was done I did not have the screws and was too lazy to find the correct screws at home depot. The support line is fantastic. If you call ask for Adrian and he will help you out. I got filament stuck in it and they helped me get it out 2 hours after he was supposed to go home. They are very nice people and will work after hours to help. When I was fixing it I needed to keep the fan on the print head on and got my wrench in it and broke the blades. He sent one out the next day for me. Conclusion Being my first print I cant compare it to others but I can say it is a great printer for the price and I would recommend it. I know people who have 400$ China printers and they cant get anything decent off of them. I would say that this printer beats the DaVinci that my buddy owns. Its an all in one printer capable of great results with some knowledge of how pla works and what temps are good as well as knowing a bit of 3d modeling. Even free online stuff works too.

If you had to choose between one or the other, can't have both now you richy-mcrichy-von-fancypants, would you rather have... A 3D-Printer. For imagination sake let's say the new MakerBot Z18: That one that prints full sized helmets! I would say one of the super industrial machines that completely mimic the copied object: But, let's make the scope of this question something that can be somewhat achievable by almost everybody. or The Oculus Rift. Crystal Cove edition with that infrared spacial placement upgrade. And of course here's that LTT love >>> To create in reality from the virtual or to create in the virtual to mimic reality? oooOoooOOooOoOOooo ok i'm bored...

Anjan Contractor, a engineer, received $125,000.00 grant to make a 3d food printer. This would be useful to keeping food for a long period of time up to 30 years and compact. Source: http://www.theverge.com/2013/5/21/4350948/nasa-funding-3d-food-printer-pizza

we could be about to enter an era that pundits have been wringing their hands about for some time: the age in which it’s possible to rip, mix and print physical objects with the same ease that was once reserved for music and other media. Indeed, US copyright czar Victoria Espinel has warned that it could lead to an increase in counterfeit and pirated goods. Some entrepreneurs seem eager to bring about this future: A company subtly named Pirate3D held a very successful Kickstarter campaign in June for its 3D printer, the equally subtly named The Buccaneer. Source: http://qz.com/115824

Much like how 3D printing works, this is a video about an algorithm used to create images out of falling tetris pieces. http://www.snotr.com/video/11241/Tetris_Printer_Algorithm This is what bored programmers do. :)

Has anyone heard of or tries the Makergear Mosaic 3D printer kit? there doesn't seem to be much online and no-one has got any info. There is a pretty detailed instruction guide here https://makezine.com/projects/the-makergear-mosaic-3d-printer-part-i-the-frame/ which is pretty detailed but it hasn't got any proper specs or anything. I'm pretty sure its meant as a kit as I found a site with the 2 kits priced under its name but the frame is cnced plywood, I've been searching for some code or a model without much luck. Also the parts listed in the project are kinda vague and the Makergear website has no information of the mosaic whatsoever (unless I'm bad at seeing). Seems like a pretty cool project so thought I'd build one myself but it seems pretty old and not very well documented.

The title says it all