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About German_John

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  1. Yeah, I'm in Europe so time zones are always an issue... Annoyingly, it has a proprietary 16V PSU (I think it might be a 3 pin DIN connector on the end or something) so I can't just chuck another PSU on there and call it a day. Weird thing... the plug on the unit has 3 pins and a shield, but it's a two pin plug into the wall. I guess I can just multimeter it to see what comes out of where.
  2. The problem doesn't occur when only plugged into the wall, only when also plugged into USB. Also persists with different outlets. Wouldn't that mean that it's not due to AC power?
  3. Sounds like it, yes. Sounds a lot more like the 60Hz example in this than the 120Hz.
  4. Hey all, I've had some used harman kardon soundsticks (II, I believe) for a while now. Today, they've started humming/buzzing. The soundsticks are mains powered (16V) and connect to the sound source (i.e. a computer) via USB. I've determined the issue to be the USB cable, I think. Unplugging both USB and power, then only plugging in power makes the hum go away. Re-plugging USB makes it start again. Unplugging USB but leaving them powered when humming does NOT stop the humming. It's a low, 60ish Herz sound. My best guess is that the cable broke near the USB connector on the bac
  5. Really? I only found 1650 mobile vs 1050 comparisons on notebookcheck and they had the 1650 wiping the floor with the 1050 - is that only an issue on the nitro?
  6. Well, there's only three real contenders. The Deall G3, the TUF in the second row, and the Nitro next to it (second row, second from the right). Those have GTX1650s instead of 1050s (you're looking at 50ish percent more FPS in games with the 1650). Of those, the Intel 9300H seems to outperform the Ryzen chip in general. So I'd say go with the nitro, since it has a larger SSD.
  7. CMOS clearing can be annoying af in my experience. Try a couple of times. Just take the batter out and wait for a while. That worked for me before.
  8. Thanks! I'll buy a backup board just to be safe - they're so cheap I can easily fry a few.
  9. Sorry, I should have made it a bit more clear. I saw that article, too. My question was whether the way I think it works would actually work, i.e. taking the inputs on the board, soldering the resistors to each, then soldering those together and to one of the outputs.
  10. Hey everyone, I recently got a pretty decent 8 Ohm speaker for virtually free. My goal is to turn it into a cool little bluetooth/aux speaker thing I can take with me. I also have a PAM8403 amp board with a 3.5mm input. Now, connecting just one output isn't a great solution. I'd miss one entire channel, which sucks for music. What would be the best way to get around that? Could I just solder a 100 Ohm resistor to the left and right inputs on the board, connect them together, and then connect those to one of the outputs? I'm not very w
  11. Hey all, I have an internal microphone from an old laptop and a small preamp. Wiring should be easy enough, though I do have a few questions: The microphone has two wires soldered to it. One is obviously for sound and one will be ground. The only label is a "+" next to the red wire's solder point. The other wire is dark or maybe unshielded. I'm assuming that that one is ground, while the red wire with the + will be for audio? I also only have stereo aux jacks/cables. I was planning to just solder the audio out from the microphone to both of them. That should
  12. Hey everyone, I have an external 3.5" hard drive that I bought a replacement drive for due to it being old. I put the new drive into my computer (connected via SATA) and copied everything over. Then I put the new drive in the old enclosure, connected it and - nothing. Windows played the sound but didn't actually recognise anything. The drive does spin up, however. So I put it back in and boom, all the files are there. Old drive is FAT32, new drive is NTFS - could that be it? I also put the old drive back in and it works, so I didn't damage the enclosure.
  13. Hey all, first of all, I'm not sure whether this is the right place to ask, so I'm sorry if it isn't. I couldn't find the answer by googling, so here goes: I have a folder of excel spreadsheets from which I need to empty the same cell for all of them (say, D17). It was only needed for a sum, but needs to be empty for further processing in a different program. It's a real PITA to open each one up and remove the cell, so I thought there must be a way to automate this. Is there? Best wishes, John
  14. Thanks everyone! I'll be ordering and waiting for China Post to deliver it. So I guess I'll have it in, like, June.