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AmateurPCGuy

Member
  • Content Count

    388
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About AmateurPCGuy

  • Title
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 1998-04-23

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    GameAddict2014
  • Twitch.tv
    GameAddict123456789
  • Twitter
    @gameaddict12345

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Philipines
  • Interests
    Technology.
  • Biography
    Tech Geek since I discovered LTT
  • Occupation
    College Student

Recent Profile Visitors

1,022 profile views
  1. Exactly as the title suggest. Ever since Chrome became the popular browser around, I've been using it. However, its RAM usage really ticks the crap out of me. However, I don't want to leave the unified environment that I have set up here on my PC, my laptop and my phone. So... convince me... without mentioning the obvious reason of RAM usage.
  2. AmateurPCGuy

    Laptop auto-shutdowns after Windows login.

    So after MemTest came back clean, I booted off Safe Mode and did a normal chkdsk and an elevated chkdsk, let that run overnight. I'm now able to boot into windows and I have an instance of Photoshop (with a file open) for about 10 hours (and counting) so that I can put some sort of a load. Idling at 55, with load temp of 89 max. Pretty sure I'm gonna have to look for my thermal paste and replace the thermal pad on the CPU and GPU to alleviate this. Also, no shutdowns so far.
  3. Device: Asus n61Vn So I finally got around to swapping the thermal pads on this laptop, and beefed it up along the way (cuz I accidentally ordered a 2mm pad instead of a 1mm one... oops). So after swapping the pads, I can't boot into windows. After inputting my PIN code, the laptop just shutdowns after 5 minutes max. But here's the catch, its not overheating. On that one rare moment that I was able to open up CoreTemp, both CPUs were sitting at 55c on idle (on a thermal pad, nonetheless. my thermal paste went missing) and 91c when running on CPU-Z's load tester, so I'm certain that was not overheating. So I checked the memory stick. removing the top stick on the laptop (so I was running on 2GBs) let me go past the login screen and not shut down. Next logical thing I did was to load up MemTest on my USB drive and do a one-pass. Its currently running right now (on the 4GB config) right now. So far, no issues, and no shutdowns. So I'm now assuming that this is a poop job on Windows, but what other aspects should I be looking at?
  4. So I have an old 80gig laptop HDD (currently in an external enclosure) that I want to split into 4 partitions: 1 4GB partition for Windows 7 installer 1 8GB partition for Windows 10 installer 1 8GB partition for Ubuntu Live Disc and the rest of it will be full of installers for drivers, programs, etc. How can I make the first three partitions be bootable?
  5. Came across this during my night browse-by of usual websites I visit before I go to bed. Honestly, I didn't watch the video since I'll assume this is clickbait and the content of the video goes two ways: a. he explains what is already known (that its the YT Content ID algorithm eff'ing up) or b. (God forbid) He's making more drama. Either way, its clickbait fodder and I don't want to bother watching it. Here's the video if you're curious:
  6. So part of our school project is a program launcher that is designed in a school laboratory environment. Part of the software configuration process is that the secondary (or student) account will have very (and I do mean very) limited access to Windows features (obviously, the admin account can access it all). Here's a list of things that I plan to happen: Ctrl+Shift+Esc disabled, but Ctrl+Alt+Del requires a UAC admin prompt Win+D, Win+E, Win+L is disabled (basically most of the Win+ keybinds) Locked desktop (this is the only restriction I can do alone) No Start menu (I can probably jerry-rig this by just hiding everything in the Start menu and taskbar) Win+R is an admin-only command (or at least locked behind a UAC prompt) No control panel, or any settings config that is not behind a UAC prompt. I'm aware that most of these require either a group policy edit, or a registry edit, but I have no idea where to begin. any ideas?
  7. AmateurPCGuy

    Thermal Paste Recommendation

    So don't change thermals for now, but do so when temps get to around 75-80?
  8. AmateurPCGuy

    Thermal Paste Recommendation

    updated the monitoring programs, as well as intalled ryzen master: on consecutive 50v50 games in fortnite, aida64, HWMonitor and ryzen master reports 60-70 degrees, at this point, i'm almost sold on buying a cp15 and calling it a day
  9. AmateurPCGuy

    Thermal Paste Recommendation

    recorded a couple of temps this morning (all in celcius) BIOS idle temp was 37-44 degrees Windows idle was 46 per AIDA64, but 54 per HWMonitor MemTest(1-pass) - 50-51 AIDA64 load had an average of 64.2, but HWMonitor reports 79 1 game of a 50v50 in Fortnite yields 56-59, but HWMonitor records 65 i call the HWMonitor results fishy tbh, but do these temps warrant a TP replacement?
  10. AmateurPCGuy

    Thermal Paste Recommendation

    My build, RYZENONE, is about a year and three months old now. I'm thinking of replacing the thermal paste of it since the idles of the device is now at 50 degrees, as opposed to 40 when first bought. Now, local retailers has a couple of choices available: the three Cryorig thermal pastes (CP5, CP7 and CP15), the Noctua NT-H1, and the CoolerMaster MasterGel Pro and Maker, priced as follows (I'd put in other brands here but they're generic): CP15 - ~5 USD CP7 - ~7.50 USD CP5 - ~9.50 USD NT-H1 - same as CP5 MasterGel Pro - ~10.50 USD MasterGel Maker - ~13.50 USD Now, the general knowledge is that unless its liquid metal, thermal pastes produces little to no difference from each other. So, my inquiry is that would it be okay for me to get the cheapest, decent tube available (Cryorig CP15) and call it a day or shell out a couple of bucks more to get either a CP5 or a NT-H1? I don't think it matters, but I'll put it here anyways: I'm planning to use the same thermal paste that will be bought on my laptop, and I don't mind using the same tube when re-applying again in the future.
  11. AmateurPCGuy

    Weird Problem involving Windows, HDD and RAM

    Its probably on the borderline (especially when I'm hammering this with games), but I have not encountered a sudden shutdown ever since I had this freakish setup. As for the logs, the Minidump folder is empty (gee, thanks, Windows.). Probably because I system restored to a time just a few hours after I finished my fresh install (specifically, after installing DirectX drivers)
  12. AmateurPCGuy

    Weird Problem involving Windows, HDD and RAM

    I don't have any other stick at hand right now... plus I'm getting through Windows properly now. I'm currently monitoring every single movement to see which ticks the barrage of BSoDs and everything else. Believe it or not, I had this (I admit) freakish HDD setup running for about a year now. CM Calculator gives me this (see attached image). If I went ahead and removed the ODD, that would be lower of course.
  13. PC in question: RYZENONE (check my signature for specs) I suppose let us start at the very beginning: January 1, 2018. My PC suddenly goes kaput. After about a day of maintenance, I figured it is a dying OS hard drive. Replaced it, confirmed the drive is dead through another system, and all is well... until 6 months later. August 1, 2018. After barely touching my PC for about 3 days, I suddenly got a BSoD: SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION or IRQL_LESS_OR_NOT_EQUAL, and a couple of other BSoDs that point towards ntoskrnl, which leads me to believe that its another WIndows install gone kaput, which then evolved into numerous bootloops and even a BIOS freeze. I already had my eye on two things: another dead OS drive and my (lone) stick of RAM. I attempted a clean windows install, same problems occur, so I replaced it with another hard drive. However, that doesn't fully mitigate the problem. I'm still getting BSoDs of SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTIONS and a couple of bootloops. After verifying that the previously installed OS HDD I have installed here still works, I cleared all charges on the HDD and went into another possible culprit: the RAM. But the RAM is not the problem either, proven after passing a 4-pass test of MemTest86. After the MemTest, I was greeted with yet another BSoD: BAD_SYSTEM_CONFIG_INFO, which was resolved with a System Restore. So, with both the hard drives still alive, and my RAM passing MemTest, I can only look at one last culprit: the SATA Chipset. Why? Because I have all of the 6 SATA slots filled up (5 HDDs and 1 ODD). I'm planning to remove the ODD and see if lowering the load on the SATA chipset could solve the problem, but I wouldn't bet on it. In recap, here's a TL;DR on my situation Windows Install takes a massive poo, reformats, massive poo still exists, changed OS HDD. Same massive poo problems exists but doesn't occur as often now. Did a MemTest, RAM passes, gets a new BSoD, fixed through system repair. What other steps should I take to get this rig up and running again? PS: I would upload a dump file here, if it weren't for Windows not saving them after a BSoD, shame.
  14. AmateurPCGuy

    Help with Adaptors

    EDIT: I was supposed to click Edit on my main post, but clicked reply without knowing, hence this extra post, sorry mods. I don't know Foxconn adapter is active or passive, and if it is active (not passive, as the main post said), I don't know why it doesn't work.
  15. AmateurPCGuy

    Help with Adaptors

    Note before replying: Buying a new monitor, as much as I'd like it to happen, is not gonna be an option. I was told that I should break both displays first before we get to buy a new monitor. I currently have a 1440x900 Fujitsu Siemens (H19-1W) monitor as my main monitor. However, I would like to use my other display (a really cheap Anbonn 15" with the weirdest native resolution of 1360x768) for color-based uses, since the Fujitsu Panel is so bad at color reproduction. Here's my setup. The Fujitsu panel is connected to my GTX 1050 via HDMI through a HDMI-VGA adaptor. Without prior knowledge, I attempted to buy a DVI-D-VGA passive adaptor to connect my secondary display. No dice, Strike one. Before I go back to the shop where I bought the adapter to replace it with an active DP-VGA (note to self: please do research), I found a Foxconn DP to DVI-D adaptor (pictured below) from my stash of random adaptors. So, being the McGyver that I was, I tried the DP -> DVI-D then DVI-D -> VGA to my secondary. Still no dice, Strike two. Now, here's the thing. I am not sure if this Foxconn adapter I found is an Active or a Passive one, and if it is passive, why it doesn't work. Is there something that I should do with before I just stop this mayhem and just get my DVI-D to VGA adaptor replaced? (don't worry, I'm very close with the store owner and she agreed to have it replaced with a different product, as long as I pay the extra cost)
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