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NotSoEpicMods

Member
  • Content Count

    148
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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2 Followers

About NotSoEpicMods

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday 1989-09-09

Contact Methods

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    Computers, Gaming, noob photogaphy :P
  • Occupation
    I do stuff.

System

  • CPU
    AMD Phenom II x6 1090T
  • Motherboard
    Asus Sabertooth 990FX rev1.0
  • RAM
    16GB Patriot Sector 5 @ 1337MHz
  • GPU
    XFX HD 7950 1Ghz Core, 1.35Ghz Mem
  • Case
    Modded Cosmos S (Cosmos Sv2)
  • Storage
    2x HyperX 3K 120GB SSD raid 0, 2x WD Red 2TB raid 1, WD Green 1.5TB, WB Black 300GB
  • PSU
    Corsair HX850
  • Display(s)
    2x Asus 23"
  • Cooling
    Corsair H100
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G110
  • Mouse
    Corsair M95
  • Sound
    Oboard with Logitech something or other 5.1 speakers and Corsair Headset
  • Operating System
    Win 7 Ultimate
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

508 profile views
  1. NotSoEpicMods

    2080ti bad water block mount?

    Ok so just got the system back together and wow what a night and day difference after the remount. The card is holding nice and solid at 1875MHz+ with temps at 55C. Not sure if there was something about my original mount or if it was the included EK thermal paste that was so thin but I'm glad it's working now.
  2. NotSoEpicMods

    2080ti bad water block mount?

    So def looks like could've been a bad mount. The GPU is vertical and it looks like the thermal paste kinda just ran down the die so the top corners weren't fully covered. The missing mem chip pads are on the block. I'm sure I'm using the right screws since there are only 3 sizes in the supplied kit the others are too big and too long. Gonna retry with the slightly thicker mx4 paste.
  3. NotSoEpicMods

    2080ti bad water block mount?

    I did follow the instructions exactly and made sure to cover everything indicated and even used the stock cooler pad placement to make sure everything was covered. Not sure if any of them shifted when I flipped the card to screw down the block. I will be trying a reseat when I reroute my loop tonight. I may also use different thermal paste than the EK supplied one might try my tube of MX-4 which I find works great and isn't so runny.
  4. So I finally got around to putting the full cover EK block on my asus 2080 ti turbo. Followed the instructions to the letter and everything seemed to go smoothly. Everything at first looked fine and the core was good at 1800MHz, however after about 10 minutes in a game I noticed my fps dropping and frame times increased and was actually getting worse performance than when it was on air. When I checked MSI afterburner my core clock is fluctuating wildly between 1400MHz and 1600MHz. When I had the card running on air the core would typically lock into a solid 1600MHz and just be very noisy. If I exit out of a game and wait a few mins for the gpu to cool down then enter a game again the same thing will happen. I suspect it's a bad mount with the thermal pads or something but the core temp of the gpu under load is at about 68c vs 80c on air. Just wondering what other's thoughts are, I'm going to be redoing the loop routing for the gpu so I will peel off the block anyways and see if anything was going on. Just wondering if anyone with more gpu water cooling experience has come across something like this. P.S. I also have a full cover back plate from EK if that matters and the CPU and GPU are running together on the same loop with a D5 and more than enough radiator surface area and airflow. I was also keeping an eye on my cpu and it seemed to be acting normally even if it was a few degrees higher with the gpu heat.
  5. NotSoEpicMods

    Lights dimming on amp, sub distorts, power issue?

    Ok so I dabbled a bit into car audio when I was trying to get the setup going in my car. From what I know this would require a 2 AWG wire and likely a 150A fuse minimum for the power wire. Obviously the thicker(lower AWG number) the power wire the better. You also want to make sure your ground wire is as short as possible, it can be of a slightly lighter gauge but it must be securely attached to a solid metal piece of the vehicle. This means no self tapping sheet metal screws, drill a hole and use a nut and bolt and make sure the surface is fully clear of paint. Your sub is a 1300W 4ohm DVC which can be wired to 2ohms and your amp lists 1875W RMS at 2 ohms this means your amp should be able to sufficiently power the sub and you just have to set your gains to match the sub. You can do this with a simple multi-meter, this video has your basic overview of how to do it: Ideally you would have access to an oscilloscope to check for clipping but not everyone has easy access to those. I'm no pro but this is what I came across when I was doing my own thing, hopefully this helps even though it's just some of the basics. I spent a lot of time watching car audio videos and there's a whole lot more to it.
  6. NotSoEpicMods

    Huge subwoofer near PC?

    With the way modern LCD screens function they should not be affected or damaged by your normal run of the mill magnets you can come across. Maybe something like the magnetic field of an MRI machine might be able to affect it. Also magnetic field strength drops off dramatically with distance, just have a look of a force vs distance magnetic field graph. In your situation I would not worry about it affecting anything even if you had a mechanical drive. Also if you're still concerned get yourself a compass and use it to see where the magnet of the sub starts to move the needle, that will be where the sub magnetic field starts to overcome the earth's and we know computers function just fine in that.
  7. NotSoEpicMods

    more peltiers

    Unfortunately I don't know technical specs of peltiers too well. I just know what I do from information on those electric coolers which also use peltiers which is why they can be either hot or cold by switching the current flow.
  8. NotSoEpicMods

    more peltiers

    From my understanding of peltiers they have a delta of 65C so you're still limited by the cooling capacity of the air to cool the peltiers so they can sustain the delta you want. For example if the hot side of your peltiers are only able to be cooled to 85C then your cool side would only be 20C then you have the transfer efficiency of the air so you're limited to what the coolers in the case can handle at 20C. So as I see it you're just wasting a lot of energy trying to do something like you're explaining. It would be much more efficient to just plot the peltier on the part you're wanting to cool and have a heatsink on that.
  9. NotSoEpicMods

    pls help with Stutter Issues :{

    Maybe try lowering the view distance a notch and see if that helps or try overclocking your cpu a little if you can.
  10. NotSoEpicMods

    Personal Rig Project: Cosmos Sv2

    Just a small update, a few more parts have arrived. I got a nickel-plexi gpu block as well as a black backplate as well as a few fittings and a new multi-port res top. I have also been stress testing my system over the last few weeks. I managed to get my 9900k to 5.1ghz with a 0.100 offset which makes the cpu peak to 1.376v under full load but for some reason I can’t get all threads prime95 stable there’s always 2 threads that don’t run but it can fold and run RealBench all day long which I guess is good enough for me since I don’t think I will be running prime95 a lot. I don’t plan on running any higher voltage trying to make prime95 stable since it pegs my cpu at 92C and it’s not even summer yet. I also made a pcpartpicker list here: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/NotSoEpicMods/saved/LYysZL I thought it would be a nice comparison seeing my before and after of my CPU-Z validation. This is how my machine was pretty much ever since 2014 minus adding 2 ssds in raid 0 and to be honest even at that time it was pretty out of date: http://valid.x86.fr/hvspzq and here is my system now: https://valid.x86.fr/1qbv4w which I expect to be “out of date” within 6-12 months. However I do think that this hardware will suit my needs for several years to come or at least until I get the itch to go to something even more extreme. And before I forget here’s the screen shot of my Cinebench20 run with cpu-z not sure how it stacks up against other 9900k cpus but I think it’s by far better than my 1256 score with my previous cpu.
  11. NotSoEpicMods

    pls help with Stutter Issues :{

    What games and at what settings would help. Is it all games or is it specific ones? Are you running any overclocks?
  12. NotSoEpicMods

    Personal Rig Project: Cosmos Sv2

    Thanks! Well this update is a week or so old but here it is. I've been pretty busy but I should have another update pretty soon. As you can see I had originally decided to go with another Ultrawide monitor however I had a few issues with the one pictured above which were mainly nit picky on my part. First, is that the ultrawide monitor is not curved and after having used this 34″ Ultrawide I can honestly say in a desktop setting a curved Ultrawide with the way to go. Second, you might be able to see a re 360 console hiding behind those parts. Yes, yes, PCMR aside I still play some older console games and honestly games look horrible when stretched to 21:9 aspect ratio. So I opted instead to return the monitor and purchase a 144Hz 32″ Samsung 1440p monitor which came in the most plain boring box ever as seen below. I mean my 32″ 1080p Samsung monitor at least had a colored box but I guess the box isn’t as important as the actual product inside which I have to say is beautiful but we can get to that a bit later. First we have to build the pc. Even with high end gear it’s still your standard affair when it comes to assembly. The only exception in my case is that the custom loop for the CPU is something I had to deal with and having to change the mounting bracket. Honestly one of the reasons I went with Intel instead of AMD is the fact that I had an existing Intel bracket for my cpu block that would work with the high end chip. All in all it turned out great and performs pretty good so far at stock speeds. My stress test has been running for several hour now at stock speeds to make sure everything plays nice before I begin to start overclocking.
  13. NotSoEpicMods

    new i3-8100 high cpu usage

    When I had stuttering issues it was because my CPU wasn't overclocked for the game settings I had and would cause the GPU to wait to render a frame every few seconds. Try adjusting view distance to Med so the CPU has less items to calculate on screen.
  14. NotSoEpicMods

    Which cpu? And is overclocking worth it?

    From what I read the 9th Gen chips are all soldered instead of regular TIM which removes the need for deliding to get better thermals. 9900k is overkill unless you need/want the extra cores. If your main focus is gaming and you can afford intel then go intel or wait for amd to release the next round of zen CPUs. As for overclocking since you're running a 2080ti I would say it's almost a must to at least overclock a little since in my case overclocking my CPU removed my stuttering issue in my games with that issue but you may not have this issue depending on your gaming resolution. As for lifespan generally a minor overclock has little to no effect if the chip is kept cool.
  15. NotSoEpicMods

    Personal Rig Project: Cosmos Sv2

    Wowie this is an old thread. I hope I don't get in trouble for resurecting it but technically it is still the same build just with no updates for 4 years all I can say is that life happens and you can't always work on what you want. Well here's a little preview on what's going on with this project. Also I want to try and be more active on the LTT forums once again.
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