BoxTurtle

Yes I meant to say Lenovo Thinkpad X1 Yoga Will not power on when plugged in but will run on battery I am not sure if it is on the latest bios but I have will have to check. It is most likey outdated. I will have to update it tomorrow when I get the chance. Thank you for the help!!!!

Unlike other situations where laptops will only power on and be usable when plugged in indicating a battery issue that is not the case here. My dad's laptop works perfectly fine and charges normally but when he shuts it down it will only power back on if it is plugged into power. After it turns on it can be unplugged and used like normal. The only issues we have had recently with the laptop is that it will just randomly shut down and then you have to turn it back on. That issuse it not occuring anymore but I would like to note that when it did occur you did not have to plug it up to turn it on. I do not think this was related though as we determined that it was because he was using a 45 watt instead of a 65 watt charger so the computer had issues when at really low percentages and would draw more power than the power adapter would give it. The other issue we would have is I installed a 3rd party battery indicator task bar widget thing from the microsoft store so my dad could see his battery percentage in Windows 11 without having to click on the settings options in the lower right corner. Recently this battery indicator has been saying no battery detected. This could be a issue with the application but it also could have something to do with the laptop. But overall I think these 2 issues are unrelated to the current issue but I just decided to mention them in case they may be some sort of incator of the problem.

Sorry for asking, but did you try different display cables? Is it like flickering black screens like on off on off or does it just go black and stay black? So like are you able to mess with the cable and fix it?

banned for having one of the most disturbing profile pictures

There has to be some incompatibility thing with this cable. The cable is acutally cat 7 so maybe that is causing some problems, but it is probally just that the cable is bad and that I should accept defeat. Just to mention, I am pretty sure it is at least a 50ft cable. It may be 100ft.

I tried a different cable in the same port and the speed changed to 1000m on the router page and I am getting about 800mbps

So router/modem combo is obviously ISP provided (bc fiber gear is not sold on the consumer market). The modem/router combo that I have is a Zyxel EMG6726-B10A. If you need the serial number I also have that. Here is a link that has some more information: here From there I have a Cat 6 (pretty sure) running to the TP-Link TL-SG108 which a 8 port, gigabit, unmanaged switch. And then a ethernet cord runs from the switch into the back of my computer. My ISP is EPB and basically I don't know the whole thing but Obama (former US president) chose my city to be a gig city or something, fiber, I don't know the whole deal. So they are local.

My bad

I know I am not using technical term but when I say these speeds I mean like in the image below where you do a speedtest and see how fast your internet is. If I am correct I should have used Mbps. Edit: forget to insert screenshot

Sadly there is not way to upgrade which in my opinion does not make sense. Microsoft should just let you upgrade and you just pay the difference between regular Windows 10 and pro. Yeah and also it is really hard to get a copy of like windows 7 pro and upgrade from there bc most pcs that have that are prebuilts that have oem keys and OEM keys can not be transferred between systems. So really you do not have a choice but to buy windows 10 pro normally.

Ok so I noticed after doing some speed test because my internet was being a little funky that I was only getting about 95mbps on Ethernet even though I have (edit: replaced fiber with gigabit sorry for the confusion) gigagit and when I got it I was getting about 900mbps. Even the online router interface says that the port is 100mbps and no matter what port you plug it into this is the case. This happened to me a few months ago and I fixed it by plugging up an ethernet adapter to my Chromebook and then plugging the cord into the port my ethernet for my pc is running off. It somehow after a few tries magically "activated" the port and I was getting around gigabit again on speed test and it showed up as gigabit on the router/modem interface. I do not know how long it has been 100mbps since that first fix bc I have not noticed it till now. My theory is that maybe the built in switch on the modem/router is getting overloaded somehow. I have a Cat 6 ethernet cable running from the router/modem combo into a 8 port gigabit switch which then I have 3 computers and NAS plugged into the switch. I am pretty sure the issue is not the 8 port switch bc of the fact that the router/modem interface itself displays 100mbps which indicates that it is something on the modem/router end not on the switch end. I also ran a speedtest on the NAS using iperf and the speeds were about the same as my computer. If nobody on this forum can help me figure it out I will probally just go ahead and contact my ISP. I have fiber and it could have something to do with the fact that they are doing some "core upgrades" on July 7 but i highly doubt it. The reason I mention this is bc they may be doing some stuff on their end. So yea.

I do not have any recommendations for prebuilts. Personally I think prebuilts would be smarter right now since the company selling the PC will have GPUs at their disposal that they can get straight from the manufacturer. There is probably a way to build a pc for cheaper but in my option it is not worth it to spend months tying to get a gpu and other parts. If you are going to get a prebuilt though I would try to just make sure they are not ripping you off. Because some companies might take advantage of the situation and ramp up the price $500 just bc they know you are desperate. In conclusion I think you should just go with a prebuilt bc of the fact that they have access to gpus and other hard to find items. Just make sure you are getting a fair price. You should be able to tell by taking the MSRP of the all the parts and adding it up. I would give the price about $200 to $300 of headroom but if it goes over that I would just try to find something better.

I don't really know anything about this but some of my friends parents have used a device from circle to monitor, manage and limit their screen time. Just go to this link and look around. The thing is I don't know how you would be able to limit his internet time but at the same time not limit his screen time without just monitoring him. Like if he has access to the internet for the 3d modeling and photoscan stuff than he can do other stuff on the interent. I think the circle devices have a thing to only allow certain websites but I do not know for sure. You would just have to read up on that on their website.

The three brands I would definitely recommend switches from are Netgear, TP-Link and Cisco.

Sorry I am not replying till now but I would it just depend on whether you need poe or not. Poe switches can be much more expensive than non-poe. For example a 26 port gigabit switch is around 90 dollors but one with poe is like upwards of 220 so its your choice. It depends on whether you want to spend or the money and if you actually need a poe switch. If you don't really need poe a poe switch then don't get one. But if you have a lot of poe devices then maybe thats a option. Running a extra cord to power your devices can be annoying but if you don't really mind the extra cable then maybe just get a non-poe switch and if you still want the device to be poe powered buy a poe injector like you said. The main thing is how much money you are willing to spend.