PowerBaller

I have been helping my friend planning his new build. My own rig includes a water-cooled EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3U. The overclock outcome is satisfactory to me : +100 Mhz on GPU, + 1100 Mhz on Vram, +50mv on GPU Voltage, and 118% power, has not crash on any games and programs, and 3Dmark stress test at 99.8%, while stay under 55 degree with two 360 rads (Hardware labs Nemesis GTS). There are rumors from multiple uncertified sources about the Overclock outcome of Ampere cards: only a few is able to stay at +40Mhz, and atop of that their OC benchmark scores has only minimum improvement against the stock score (like a less than 50 improvement at Time Spy Non Extreme), though it could be the incompletion of their Driver . Any of your experience with flagship 3090?

Like i state, "inconsistency". You are lucky to get a decent block from them. I used to buy a block from them on JD.com. The contact was not even and after no less than 7 attempts of remount and reapplication of TIM, the stress test temp at stock freq still peaks at 90+, (8700K). Indeed 8700K are pasted beneath the lid, however even a good tower air cooler has lower temp than that block. Report to the customer service, they did not gave a damn, since "the product is already not in the restockable condition", plus they insist it is the defection of other components in the loop. The JD official has limited involvement since their orders are not fulfilled by JD.

Bykski are notable for being a budget product in Chinese communities, however also notorious for its inconsistent workmanship and almost non-existing custom support. Furthermore, the size jet fins are larger than those from euro, lead to subpar performance. Should you look for an entire budget build, it is a decent bet on Bykski or Barrow. But if you prefer "Pudget", consider advanced blocks + advanced pump + budget fittings, tubing and reservoirs.

Have been thinking mod a PS4 pro. But cant find any designated water block, nor enough source confirms any other cpu blocks that are fully compatible. OriginPC sells a premium solution Big O, but they dont appear to sell the block separately. Is fabricating one my own the only option?

As long as your OS is a properly updated Windows 10, you concern is not necessary. Microsoft has coded a basic graphics driver: if the driver isn't compatible with your new hardware(graphic card), or even the driver is lacking at all, either of your old or new card can still output video signal as "Microsoft Basic Display Adapter". The most hassle free solution for you is to install Geforce Experience and has it automictically detect the properly driver to be installed

Windows 10: Pasted the following in your file explorer address bar: Control Panel\All Control Panel Items\Storage Spaces you will then have the option to create an storage pool. Or you can simply ask Cortana: "create a storage pool"

A 16GB stick has 2 ram rank. Usually, overclocking single rank ram (8GB) is much easily than dual rank rams(16GB). And daisy chain mobo works well with 1 dimm (2 x 8GB), while T topology excels at 2 dimm (4x8GB). Msi mobo are typically daisy chain routing; Asus boards are T Topology

If your platform is X570, expect the Samsung 980 Pro.

The stock setting is coded in the bios already. When GPU-Z scan your card, i reads both the stock speed and the current speed. most overclocking software tune your GPU by override that setting, the bios itself is read only. In other words, rebooting with set it to default unless you flash a modified bios.

EKWB's clear concentrate; but half the concentration it recommended in order to avoid sediments.

FYI, i get 42 after playing 90 min of CODMW, with only 30% duty load (fixed regardless of temp. Hardware is OC 9700K at all 5.2, and OC 2080 TI at 2150mhz. This is exactly why this loop is parallel. Some Cold liquid enter the GPU block and leave with the heat, the rest head into the CPU block without any thermal exchange with the GPU. I can assigned dedicated radiators to cool CPU coolant and GPU coolant almost independently , before they converge atop of the reservoir. Doing a loop like it negates the shortcoming of D5 pump somehow. D5 pump moves a lot of fluid at low pressure. Splitting them draw out more potential of the pump. after all. Its just imperial talk. Insufficient data for mine statement to be analytical.

What is the front panel of your case? Open, glass, or mesh? My setup is: one 360 x 30 rad at front for cpu, one 360 x 30 at top for gpu. The GPU and CPU loop are parallel, taking advantage of the D5 pump. One indepedent 140mm fan as rear exhaust. Fan choice? Regular coolermaster fan, not capable of generating high static pressure (only 2.32 mm), but enough for thin rads. Even setting fixing rate at around 850 rpm, after 90 min of CODMW game play, the coolant temp peaked at 42 cecius at 45 min; no future raise. My case is a cooler master H500P. Not a liquid cooled friendly case (but however have top internal ventilation), the front panel is mesh: some dust resistance, but massive merit over glass in terms of intake. By theory, we model how heat dissipate from radiator into a force convective heat transfer: the dissipation power are codetermined by a heat transfer coefficient, temperature difference ( exponent may apply at great gradient) and Surface area. Most research shows that high RH(humidity) level result in lower coefficient; increasing fluid flow rate will also increase coefficient; the return diminishes. If the radiator is too thick for the air flow to move pass, the coefficient greatly reduced; nature convection dominates the force convection. Higher static pressure fan or push pull config will ensure the force convection. In addition higher intake air flow also result in cooler air being feed into the case. Despite more heat is brought in the case from the front rad, it is less significant than the increment of air flux. In practical, my thought includes: to remove front / top panels, to leave a wider gap between the reservoir and the front rad, to reconfig a parallel loop.

Full nickel yield the best performance by theory, but a plexi cover let you see through how much sediments builds up and warn you a major maintenance. If you are using clear coolant or even just distilled water, i will get full nickel .

Keep an Eye on EVGA's official site; their CLC280 is a top performer and are frequently listed as weekly sale.

EK's Magnitude is overpriced, unless you treat it as luxury and lean on its look. It does NOT perform better than velocity. If you are willing to spend a lot on water block, there is a silver cpu block from aquacomputer. Using DDC pump on a loop with those radiator are a little overkill, in terms of their hydrallic pressure. If the fluid resistance is too little for your pump, it will result in higher risk of leaking. D5 pump, on the contrary, are know for high flow rate + decent hydraullic pressure. And finally, if you have source to purchase radiator from Hardware Lab, they will surely amaze you.

Typically. SMR HDD has a cache size larger than 64MB, if the HDD itself is not greater than 6TB. Toshiba did NOT manufacure SMR Drive until the very recent. Still, their X300/N300 are authentic PMR, as stated in their specs.

While manually tuning the CPU set up parameter, a major part of this matter is SIicon lottery. No expert, unless they are the exact personal that test your cpu from Intel, can tell you the exact optimal voltage for your processor without experiments. Ive seen some outstanding 9900K that are able to stable at 5.4Ghz at 1.37 V, and some bad one that barely pass the standard to be a 9900, need 1.39 V to stable at 5.0Ghz. I will suggest finding the minimal boot voltage for a certain speed. A quick way to estimate it is lock your CPU at stock turbo ( eg in windows 10, set both min and max CPU power at 100% under your power plan), read the Vcore in CPUZ, add that value by 0.02, and try this manual Vcore in BIOS. Once you find this voltage, add another .02 v to it and start regular stress test ( e.g aidas 64 FPU ) for at least 15 min to examine if there is a quick BSOD. Then add another .03 v and run the Hardcore stress test Pirme 95 Small FTTS, see if any of your thread drops and stop working. If it all goes well, you can confidently assume this Speed and Vcore setting is stable enough for daily use, as long as the Vcore is not greater than 1.4 V.

To be specific, it is a Sandisk CZ880. The spec sheet on WD does not specified which controller it employed. Assumed it is a Marvell, is it still necessnary to overprovisioning 10% of it?

Prior to the panedemic, the 970 EVO Plus stays at 399.99 for seasons. This is the price to match, i showed this price in Mirco Center and they match this price. (source:https://camelcamelcamel.com/product/B07MFZXR1B).

My favorite AIO will be either Alphacool Eisbaer with EVGA FX fans ( cheap but 2.88 mm of static pressure !), or the EVGA CLC 280/360 itself. There are lots of review about evga clc compare to others, its performance is always one of its kind.

Isn't 970 Evo even cheaper?

If you are referring to Corsair MP510 vs Seagate Firecuda, they are basically the same thing. (Both Phison E12 controller, TLC) Why not the 970 EVO Plus? It has samsung's pheonix controller, DRAM as level 1 cache, and SLC as level 2 cache. This is a feature not even their own 970 pro has. It is arguable the best pcie 3.0 nvme, and the performance even outclass 970 pro in small size read/write. ( The MLC edges only in at sustain performance)

Alphacool has a solution like this. By theory could be any simple refridgeration loop. Intergrate the block as the evaporator, then a compressor, then condenser, than the PWM expansion valve. But honest i dont expect the result to be fancy for daily use. Conventional watercooling take more advantage of the total heat capacity of water, instead of merely the temperature difference. Since phase change always has to be involved in refridgeration cycle, you cant have more than 200 grams of it in your loop. Plus, you have to weld, instead of using fittings to connect your loop.

Some pumps only have a menu speed control dial at the bottom, and some are pwm. I assuming you are looking for PWM pump: Molex for power, the 4 pin connector "reports" the current RPM to your mobo, as well as receiving regulator instruction from it. This one suits your answer perfectly https://www.amazon.com/Aquacomputer-41105-D5-Pump-PWM/dp/B00ZXY94KU/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=aquacomputer+D5+pwm&qid=1584425471&sr=8-2

Slightly adjust the mounting position and pressure and see if the resonance are attenuated better